Brake line on frame rail blew.

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twinrider1

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Sep 28, 2003
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Not a bad job or is it the ninth level of Hell?

-'98 Durango 5.2l
-It's the long line, that runs from a junction block near the front left wheel all the way to the back. I ordered the factory part, will be here in the AM.
-Hoping the designers made it possible to replace without removing the engine, transmission, and lifting the body from the frame.

Anyone with experience in this sort of task?
 

shabby

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Oct 9, 1999
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No idea what's involved, but if you do have to take a lot of things apart the other option is to simply replace the section that blew. You'll need flaring tools which you can probably rent, a small piece of brake line and some flared fittings. Check out youtube how to make brake lines.
 

phucheneh

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Jun 30, 2012
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Where did the line burst? If it's at a bracket that clamps it and like three other lines in place, prepare yourself to replace those other three lines, at well.

I'm highly surprised you actually found the part. You sure it's a pre-formed line? Dealers will often only offer to sell you bulk line, especially on older cars...you gotta bend it yourself. Which, actually, can make things easier, as you can thread the line through a tight spot and then execute the bends on the other end, rather than trying to thread a needle with a silly straw.
 

ISAslot

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Jan 22, 2001
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Where did the line burst? If it's at a bracket that clamps it and like three other lines in place, prepare yourself to replace those other three lines, at well.

I'm highly surprised you actually found the part. You sure it's a pre-formed line? Dealers will often only offer to sell you bulk line, especially on older cars...you gotta bend it yourself. Which, actually, can make things easier, as you can thread the line through a tight spot and then execute the bends on the other end, rather than trying to thread a needle with a silly straw.

Not always. Just ordered some bent, flared and with connectors in stainless for my 68 Ford.
http://www.classictube.com/
 

phucheneh

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Jun 30, 2012
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Not always. Just ordered some bent, flared and with connectors in stainless for my 68 Ford.
http://www.classictube.com/

Slightly different situation when it comes to classics. I was talking more about 10-20 year old cars...that's when rust usually claims brake lines, and factory parts are no longer made. Assuming it was ever available...AFAIK, the rules about parts support for <10 year old stuff don't really apply to stuff like hard lines or bulk hose (formed hoses that cannot be readily fabricated, OTOH, are usually available).

I always just get pre-flared lines from the parts store and bend them myself.
 

ISAslot

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Jan 22, 2001
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Slightly different situation when it comes to classics. I was talking more about 10-20 year old cars...that's when rust usually claims brake lines, and factory parts are no longer made. Assuming it was ever available...AFAIK, the rules about parts support for <10 year old stuff don't really apply to stuff like hard lines or bulk hose (formed hoses that cannot be readily fabricated, OTOH, are usually available).

I always just get pre-flared lines from the parts store and bend them myself.

I see, you did specify dealers, so what you were saying would most likely apply for my car as well.
 

twinrider1

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Sep 28, 2003
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Where did the line burst? If it's at a bracket that clamps it and like three other lines in place, prepare yourself to replace those other three lines, at well.

I'm highly surprised you actually found the part. You sure it's a pre-formed line? Dealers will often only offer to sell you bulk line, especially on older cars...you gotta bend it yourself. Which, actually, can make things easier, as you can thread the line through a tight spot and then execute the bends on the other end, rather than trying to thread a needle with a silly straw.
Bold added.

I didn't use the exact phrase pre-formed, but I did ask him if it was already bent and was flared with fittings. So I think it will be. And I did have to give him the VIN. Though now you have me thinking and parts places do sell the generic straight pieces that are also already flared with fitting, so...
I'll find out in the morning.

lol, silly straw. Yes, that is my concern. And it's above the frame rail so there are long stretches that I can't actually see.
 

phucheneh

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Jun 30, 2012
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I would suspect you won't have too much trouble on a full-frame truck with a solid rear axle. But then again I've never tried to fit a long pre-bent line.

The only place you're likely to encounter trouble is near the front, where the line moves off the frame and starts to travel up to the master cylinder, ABS unit, or whatever it terminates at. I usually bend that part first and then feed the rest of the line down through whatever free space I've got.

Hopefully there is a distribution block or proportioning valve or some such down on the frame that you can start at that will keep you out of the engine bay. If you're starting on the frame and just going to rear hose(s), it should be pretty easy. Likewise for replacing the lines on the rear axle leading to the wheel cylinders (I'm assuming rear drums?).
 

twinrider1

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Sep 28, 2003
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No questions right now, just venting...

I hate rust. Have I mentioned that lately? Not just surface rust

Got the two fittings loose and the line partially removed. Realized I don't have a metric set of flare wrenches, but a regular wrench did the trick. I'll be able to get the rest of the line out easily enough, but still not sure how I'll snake the new one in without dropping the tank. I really don't want to drop the tank.
I'm done for the day. Can't miss the son's baseball game.


Funny, there is another line that parallels the brake line bend for bend, for a distance. Not sure what it's for, but it is clean as a can be, not a speck of rust on it.
 

twinrider1

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Sep 28, 2003
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Son of a B. So I'm laying this part out, getting a look at how it can go in, and I think they gave me the wrong part.
My part should run along the frame rail. At that point it connects to a flexible line that runs inbound to a junction block on the top center of the pumpkin. And the flexible is part of that junction block, not just threaded in like a regular fitting.

Well the part they gave me has a big bend in it like it's designed to make that curve and run all the way to that rearend junction block. Like it should be used without the flexible line.

Parts guy says that's the only one they have listed. Seriously thinking about returning it and just getting a straight piece and bend it up myself.
 
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