Brake line failure

[[DHT]Osiris]

Alright, help a newbie out.

07 Tundra, brakes were acting squishy this afternoon when I went for a quick store run, by the time I got home I almost had to e-brake my way into the garage. Get out, I can smell the fluid and there's stuff sprayed all over the inside of the wheel well and dripping out of the garage like a murder victim.

After letting things cool down a bit, I found a rather large hole in one of the hard lines, looks like salt's just disintegrated it. So, a few questions:
I can't find this specific 'line' on diagrams/online, are they just 'standard' length hoses? This one's about 12" long. Can I buy one and just gently bend it into shape/use a pully/round object to bend into shape?
Is this realistically serviceable without removing the wheel?
Is the brake fluid going to just dissolve everything under the wheel well? My understanding is it's pretty caustic.
Is this worth me trying to do, followed by a car shop inspecting everything? Or are they just going to turn around and say 'yeah that one looks great but the other 25 hoses are just as dissolved, we gotta do the rest now' and it end up costing me the same amount anyhow?
Thanks...

 

[sdifox]

Looks like a lot of segments. I mean if one failed chances are the others are probably going as well.

Toyota Tundra Brake Line Set 2007 Reg Cab 8.1ft Bed 4.0L BLT-108-SS1A Stainless Steel

2007 Toyota Tundra Brake Lines 4.0L engine. Master Cylinder Primary Line runs from Rear Port of Master Cylinder to ABS Motor, Master Cylinder Secondary Line runs from Front Port of Master Cylinder to ABS Motor, Left Front Brake Line runs from Rear Port of ABS Motor to Left Front Brake Hose...

www.linestogo.com

 

[repoman0]

Often the lines will come unbent from the manufacturer even if you find the right part number, so it probably wouldn’t be plug and play anyway. I would highly recommend finding a good indy shop and having them make you new copper lines out of generic stock. They’ll be able to flare new connectors too. If one line is so rusty that it busted through then others that are exposed to the elements probably aren’t far behind. Change the rubber lines too if they’re original and flush the brake fluid.

Brake fluid will dissolve paint but shouldn’t really hurt anything else — I’d still wipe it down and try to rinse it off, hopefully without getting it into your soil or garage floor.

 

[lxskllr]

It isn't hard making your own lines. If I can do it, anyone can. You need the flaring tool to make the flanges, but they aren't real expensive. Buy some generic brakeline, the tool, and watch some videos.

 

[[DHT]Osiris]

Looks like a lot of segments. I mean if one failed chances are the others are probably going as well.

Toyota Tundra Brake Line Set 2007 Reg Cab 8.1ft Bed 4.0L BLT-108-SS1A Stainless Steel

2007 Toyota Tundra Brake Lines 4.0L engine. Master Cylinder Primary Line runs from Rear Port of Master Cylinder to ABS Motor, Master Cylinder Secondary Line runs from Front Port of Master Cylinder to ABS Motor, Left Front Brake Line runs from Rear Port of ABS Motor to Left Front Brake Hose...

www.linestogo.com

Yeah, I was at minimum going to replace the mirror to this one on the other side, they're both about a foot long and very exposed to kicked up salt from the front tire. My plan at this time is to replace those two, and any other easily accessible lines (I'll check for that in the AM) then get it down the road this next week to get a professional to get a look at it, maybe do a brake line flush, etc.

hopefully without getting it into your soil or garage floor.

Too late, this poor bastard was bleeding down the driveway and sepuuku'd on my garage floor.

It isn't hard making your own lines. If I can do it, anyone can. You need the flaring tool to make the flanges, but they aren't real expensive. Buy some generic brakeline, the tool, and watch some videos.

Ugh, folks from another forum made it sound like the entire line was very generic, fittings and flanges included. M10x1.0 specifically.

EDIT: Ah I see, it's just a clamp with a dowel-thing that smushes the line so that the screw mates to it, that looks pretty easy.

 

[RLGL]

there is a company that sells hard line kits for most vehicles, I believe it is called inline tube brake lines

 

[[DHT]Osiris]

Replacement successful. It was so rusted through that the nut was welded to the flange, and the whole mess just twisted off of the line itself. After some cleanup, I got the new line on, though I can't guarantee it's the same nut flaring, gonna have the shop check it to make sure it's okay (it doesn't match OEM). No leaks though!

Rear brakes' bleed bolts are rusted solid too, and wd40 didn't help, so guessing it needs some lovin' at the shop as well. I can get there with 30% or whatever brake power so they can deal with this at that point

 

[RLGL]

the flare needs to be a "double flare". there is a special flare tool kit for the operation. if you did a single flare it WILL leak at some point.

 

[[DHT]Osiris]

the flare needs to be a "double flare". there is a special flare tool kit for the operation. if you did a single flare it WILL leak at some point.

So the line itself is double flared, I more meant the flaring and the size of the nut itself.

When I take it in, since they have to drain, flush, and replace the other side anyhow, I might just have them swap out the one I did with an OEM just to be sure.

 

[sdifox]

So the line itself is double flared, I more meant the flaring and the size of the nut itself.

When I take it in, since they have to drain, flush, and replace the other side anyhow, I might just have them swap out the one I did with an OEM just to be sure.

Stainless. Not oem

 

[BonzaiDuck]

Starting with this thread, in aftermath of many years' summer heat-waves, I'm reminded why I'm actually glad to live in So-Cal. Or rather -- there's one reason, even if not sufficient.

Unless one drives in the mountains during winter, there's no need for road salt here. And if you DO drive to the mountains in winter, you can return home to balmier temperatures and run the garden hose under the car with ease.

 

[[DHT]Osiris]

Srainless. Not oem

Given that the vehicle is almost 20yo, the rest of it will probably rust before the replacement brake lines.

 

[mindless1]

I'd just make copper nickel lines. Very easy to bend by hand, and to flare (and if you aren't the greatest at flaring, will more readily mash down to make a seal while tightening the nut so it works anyway) , and practically no corrosion which is like stainless, but otherwise stainless is the opposite, the toughest to work with of all the hard line material options.

Granted that doesn't matter if someone fabs it to be a drop in part for the vehicle, as long as it doesn't have any bends that still need made (due to shipping box considerations) that are tough to do, then get a bending tool.

 

[[DHT]Osiris]

I'd just make copper nickel lines. Very easy to bend by hand, and to flare (and if you aren't the greatest at flaring, will more readily mash down to make a seal while tightening the nut so it works anyway) , and practically no corrosion which is like stainless, but otherwise stainless is the opposite, the toughest to work with of all the hard line material options.

Granted that doesn't matter if someone fabs it to be a drop in part for the vehicle, as long as it doesn't have any bends that still need made (due to shipping box considerations) that are tough to do, then get a bending tool.

They come prefabbed in established lengths apparently, and the part store near me had enough of the right lengths to sort me out until I got it to the shop. Bending was cake, just wrapped it around a wd40 can to get the bends I needed.

 

[mindless1]

^ I wasn't aware that parts stores carried the prefabbed in nickel copper now. I used some from autozone years ago but it was just plastic coated steel, AGS brand IIRC. It has held up but was only reasonable to use for one run I had at the time, then once I bought a roll of bulk nickel copper, didn't look back.

A WD40 can (I'm thinking the big ones, since I never buy little ones) is a bit large for a lot of the bends that modern automobiles use, thanks to CAD design the spacing is so tight that smaller diameter bends are common these days. I was too cheap to buy a bending tool but it isn't really needed with the nickel copper line, bends so easily that I just put a piece of 1-1/4" dowel rod in my drill press, held a (round) chainsaw file to it to mill out a channel, and can use that to make ~ 1" diameter bends.

 

[[DHT]Osiris]

^ I wasn't aware that parts stores carried the prefabbed in nickel copper now. I used some from autozone years ago but it was just plastic coated steel, AGS brand IIRC. It has held up but was only reasonable to use for one run I had at the time, then once I bought a roll of bulk nickel copper, didn't look back.

A WD40 can (I'm thinking the big ones, since I never buy little ones) is a bit large for a lot of the bends that modern automobiles use, thanks to CAD design the spacing is so tight that smaller diameter bends are common these days. I was too cheap to buy a bending tool but it isn't really needed with the nickel copper line, bends so easily that I just put a piece of 1-1/4" dowel rod in my drill press, held a (round) chainsaw file to it to mill out a channel, and can use that to make ~ 1" diameter bends.

Yeah, I was lucky in this case, they only had a single line of appropriate length and the line I needed only had two bends so I was in fine shape.

Took it in to the shop, they confirmed the new line looked great and the other line definitely needed replacing as well. They also exclaimed that the rear bleed valves were indeed a pain to get off lol.

All good now though! On to the Camaro repairs!