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body shop guys... what is common rust repair method

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T2urtle

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This is on a Nissan 240sx.

Rocker panels are somewhat like this

http://ts4.mm.bing.net/th?id=I.4775755273864879&pid=1.9

I found this on google. WHat is the method of attack? My thoughts would be stop the RUST as in and find a side skirt to put over it. I dont think you can buy rocker panel replacements.


Then you have the normal rear wheel well rust, its forming at the 12 o clock spot and at the 3 o clock, for this i assume you just cut off the wheel well and re-weld a sheet of metal and repaint. The wheel well is still solid and not rusted thru completely its surface rust plus some.

I dont have a picture of it. nothing shows up on google.


http://ts1.mm.bing.net/th?id=H.4924228035019560&pid=1.9
Lastly is the strut tower rust. Guy looks like he did a decent job stoping the problem. Sealed up the seems and welded some of it.


Would all this be common method of attack? Or is there other body shop methods? Debating on buying a car and doing this stuff at home, paying a shop to do some.
 
Cut out all the rust on the old car and use as a template. Then find a donor vehicle and use old piece as template on new panel. Cut out patch from donor panel, weld it in, and paint it up.

If you're good with metal, I'm not, you could make your own patches. Or if you don't care about it being a show quality finished piece.
 
franksta got it right. The term you're looking for is rocker rot, and if you google the term you'll find many cases of it.
 
I'm not concerned about show quality. Right now its just the stage after paint bubble, where rust is forming. Looks horrible.

Just need to make it look pretty.
 
Rust is forming before/during the paint bubbling. Usually you need to cut a decent bit above the bubbling to get to clean metal.

Frankly I wouldn't wanna touch that car with a ten foot pole. It can be fixed, but it's not going to be cheap. There's a difference between modern 'body' (collision repair) guys and those who can make custom patch panels.

As far as cutting stuff out of a donor car, the question becomes...if there are rust-free donor cars around...why are you messing with the rusty one? It's a 240SX. It's not like you pulled a split-window Corvette out of a barn or something.
 
Cut rust out Weld or Epoxy in (i perfer epoxy keeps water from entering the seam between new metal and old and doesnt require a welder)new metal. then some epoxy primer and then followed by proper bodywork. and should have a repair that last 3-5years if not longer depending on the weather its driven in. whats always good after a rust repair i usualy try and squirt some used motor oil in the rocker or inside the quater panel. helps amazingly keep the rust at bay. but normaly you best bet is to just find a cleaner chassis.
 
bondo.jpg
 
Rust is forming before/during the paint bubbling. Usually you need to cut a decent bit above the bubbling to get to clean metal.

Frankly I wouldn't wanna touch that car with a ten foot pole. It can be fixed, but it's not going to be cheap. There's a difference between modern 'body' (collision repair) guys and those who can make custom patch panels.

As far as cutting stuff out of a donor car, the question becomes...if there are rust-free donor cars around...why are you messing with the rusty one? It's a 240SX. It's not like you pulled a split-window Corvette out of a barn or something.

It's a lot worse than it looks. Start grinding and you'll find out.

Only way to properly repair this is to cut it out and replace it.
 
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