BoberFett's Home Theater Build

BoberFett

Lifer
Oct 9, 1999
37,562
9
81
I'm going to make this the official BoberFett Home Theater Build thread, updating as things progress, and in the end if all goes well post photos of the finished project. I'm currently in the planning stages of finishing off the whole basement including a home theater. I had considered leaving it wide open as an entire entertainment area, but the thought of having a nicely equipped dedicated theater is just too tempting.

This is my initial attempt after spending several hours learning to deal with some of Sketchup's quirks.

Basement01.png


The foundation is about 1500 sqft, I have around 1100 sqft to work with after taking out the utility room and other non-finishable space. In the lower right hand corner there will eventually be a guest bedroom and a bathroom. At the top you can see I've started playing with some different bar layouts. That just happens to be a very cool one somebody uploaded to the Sketchup model site, and was one the designer actually built for himself. I particularly like the kegerator setup on the corner of the bar. The center area will probably have a MAME cabinet (another future project) and a gaming table for playing cards, board games, etc.

As for the home theater, this is a layout I just recently came up with after trying to figure out how to squeeze everything in.

Basement02.png


Originally I planned to put the TV against the outer wall, opposite of where it is in this picture. The problem I ran into was an aesthetic one. When coming down the stairs I didn't want to run straight into a flat wall. I have the feeling that the initial impression people would have when entering would be that it was cramped. To open it up I put that angle in the wall so that as you get to the bottom of the stairs you can see the bar and patio area, which hopefully will make it more inviting. Then I started thinking it might be kind of a cool idea to angle the other corner as well and make that the front of the theater. Now maybe home theater purists will mock me for not having square corners, but right now I like the way it's shaping up. The room is 14' wide and 19' long with 8' ceilings. It's not in this drawing yet, but the doorway to the theater will be a 6' pair of pocket doors. I'm using pocket doors to save precious floor space, but wanted a large opening to make it feel like it was still a part of the main room when the doors are open. It also has the benefit of being able to see the screen while sitting at the bar when they're open.

We already own the sofa, it's one of those sectionals with triangle wedge pieces between the center loveseat and two outer recliners. There's also a wedge ottoman, but these pieces were the closest I could find premade for Sketchup that are close enough to give us an idea about sizing. And it's kind of a chocolate brown, not that hideous pink color you see here. ;) The angled walls are about 3' and it leaves just enough space for a 100' screen, should I choose to go front projection at some point. Just for kicks I raised up the floor between the angled walls 6" as a small stage area. Not sure if that'll make it to the final but it seemed neat as I was laying things out. Feel free to tell me if it's a dumb idea. :D

My current equipment is kind of sad, and upgrading it is going to be part of the build process. Right now I have:

  • Sony KP-46WT520 46" RP CRT - Yes, it's huge, but the picture was amazing compared to the early LCDs when I bought it four years ago
  • Yamaha RX-V870 - Died last summer, it doesn't run long before it turns off, seems like the amp is overloading, R.I.P.
  • Polk S10 fronts - Left speaker blew the woofer, possibly related to the dead receiver and Polk doesn't make a replacement
  • Polk CS100 center
  • Polk M3 surrounds
  • Modded Xbox with XBMC and various other consoles

The stereo and speakers are all over 15 years old and they treated me well, but it's time to move on. I'll definitely be coming to this forum for recommendations on equipment when I get closer to completion.

I'm going to keep mulling over my layout here, but construction will probably begin within the next few weeks. I'll keep this thread updated with construction photos and likely a few questions for the experts. :)

- Chris
 

vi edit

Elite Member
Super Moderator
Oct 28, 1999
62,484
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A couple comments since I've been researching this stuff for the last 6 months for my own future theatre build.

1) If you have the ability to, I'd look at moving at least part of it to a place where one side wall or back wall is against the utility room. This way you can build your AV rack into the wall and put a door on it for access in the room, but the heat & noise stays in the utility area. Plus all your cables are easily accessible from that side and out of the way.

2) With the size you are looking at and since you are working with space that isn't near bed rooms, consider going in-wall with your front speakers and an accoustically transparent screen over them. This way you have a wall of sound and save on precious floor-estate

3) If you do go angled walls, don't drywall them. Frame them up and then use them for bass traps/accoustic treatments.

4) Figure out your budget. Then double it. Figure out your time you want to spend and triple it.

5) Don't hang up your projector until you are 100% done. Once it's up. Nothing else will get completed.

6) Go to the AVS dedicated theatre build forum and look up the "show me" threads. See what you like and then look at their build threads to see how they did it.

Have fun!
 

Chapbass

Diamond Member
May 31, 2004
3,147
96
91
A couple comments since I've been researching this stuff for the last 6 months for my own future theatre build.

1) If you have the ability to, I'd look at moving at least part of it to a place where one side wall or back wall is against the utility room. This way you can build your AV rack into the wall and put a door on it for access in the room, but the heat & noise stays in the utility area. Plus all your cables are easily accessible from that side and out of the way.

2) With the size you are looking at and since you are working with space that isn't near bed rooms, consider going in-wall with your front speakers and an accoustically transparent screen over them. This way you have a wall of sound and save on precious floor-estate

3) If you do go angled walls, don't drywall them. Frame them up and then use them for bass traps/accoustic treatments.

4) Figure out your budget. Then double it. Figure out your time you want to spend and triple it.

5) Don't hang up your projector until you are 100% done. Once it's up. Nothing else will get completed.

6) Go to the AVS dedicated theatre build forum and look up the "show me" threads. See what you like and then look at their build threads to see how they did it.

Have fun!


This X 1000000.

Very excited in following this thread.
 

BoberFett

Lifer
Oct 9, 1999
37,562
9
81
Hey vi, thanks for the comments.

A couple comments since I've been researching this stuff for the last 6 months for my own future theatre build.

1) If you have the ability to, I'd look at moving at least part of it to a place where one side wall or back wall is against the utility room. This way you can build your AV rack into the wall and put a door on it for access in the room, but the heat & noise stays in the utility area. Plus all your cables are easily accessible from that side and out of the way.

That's one thing I'm still trying to work out. There's an area between the theater and the utility room that would be a good spot for a closet. With the angled walls though it wouldn't really be a good place to put equipment. I've been thinking about where I actually want to stash everything and one option is to completely hide it all and use a universal remote with an IR repeater. Then the questions becomes where to put it. The next possibility is to remove the angles from the interior walls and just wall it straight off where the front of the stage is right now. The room would be a little shorter, but still good sized, and there would be a fairly large cavity in the wall that could be used for built in storage. Definitely something to consider.

2) With the size you are looking at and since you are working with space that isn't near bed rooms, consider going in-wall with your front speakers and an accoustically transparent screen over them. This way you have a wall of sound and save on precious floor-estate

Do you mean a recess in the wall that speakers are placed in or actual in-wall speakers? I actually kind of like being able to see the speakers, I see them as part of the furniture. A couple of the sets I'm considering are an SVS STS-01 or an Energy C-500 5.1 system. It would seem a shame to hide those, and as for actual in-wall speakers I just have to wonder if it's possible to get as good a sound from speaker placed in a randomly designed wall space vs. a properly engineered enclosure.

3) If you do go angled walls, don't drywall them. Frame them up and then use them for bass traps/accoustic treatments.

No idea what you just said, guess I'll have to do a bit of research on those topics. :)

4) Figure out your budget. Then double it. Figure out your time you want to spend and triple it.

Yeah, I already know this going to be expensive, and I haven't even factored in the new bathroom yet.

5) Don't hang up your projector until you are 100% done. Once it's up. Nothing else will get completed.

I'm not totally sold on the projector yet; I'm also considering a large plasma. This is going to be for movies and video gaming, so the display choice is going to depend in large part on which is better for all around use rather than simply which is bigger. If I really want to drop some serious coin I suppose I could put in a plasma and a ceiling mount screen that drops in front of it for movies. :eek:

6) Go to the AVS dedicated theatre build forum and look up the "show me" threads. See what you like and then look at their build threads to see how they did it.

Have fun!

I've poked around in there a bit, definitely something I need to spend a bit more time doing. I look forward to seeing what you do with your place as well. How's the new place coming?
 

SlickSnake

Diamond Member
May 29, 2007
5,235
2
0
I would place the HDTV on the outer wall where the chairs are. I would demo the other wall where the end of the stairs are and open that space up. If this is a load bearing wall, either make a large opening in it or use some kind of dressed up support columns. I don't really understand why you would want to block this small HT area off with walls around it, since the view of the HDTV would be especially good with it on the outer wall from the bar or a gaming table next to it.

With the HDTV on the other wall by the stairs, like you show, you would have no view of the HDTV from the gaming table in front of the doors. And the bar could also be a straight bar running in front of the corner windows and also take up a lot less space if placed closer to the windows. You will only be behind the bar to make drinks, so extra space back there like you have it is completely wasted.

And the HT equipment could be either hidden in a slightly built out enclosed closet on the HDTV wall that matched the bar next to it, or even placed back behind the bar area in a smaller profile closet/rack with a door and away from possible spillage. The HT rack could even be built into the bar on the outside at the end by the wall to hide it even more, making it virtually invisible.

This open design will also open up the sound system aspect when you aren't in that closed off HT room, and make music a much more enjoyable experience from the bar or gaming table.

You could consider these above options and also place the HDTV in the corner of the room with the sub behind it, which is ideal sub placement, or even possibly build that corner out a bit with a small flat acoustic wall with the sub in it and extra storage and the HT equipment if you liked.

Overall, I prefer larger HT spaces, not smaller and more cramped ones, but that's just me. You can still get the dedicated HT feel with a larger room, and then you have the option of more than 4 people at a time who can enjoy the HT without having to sit so close to each other and smell each others farts in an enclosed space for 2 hours plus. A larger HT space is definitely something to consider if you entertain 3 or more people a lot.
 
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heyheybooboo

Diamond Member
Jun 29, 2007
6,278
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0
Start with a dimensionally-correct 2d line drawing and represent the exact location of all your utilities, existing framing, load points, electric panel, stub-outs for plumbing, duct work, etc. It will be easier to make suggestions and provide sketches for you to consider.

As far as your theater design, moving your seating away from the back wall is highly recommended. I understand it may be highly impractical to 'center' your seating between the front and rear, but the further you can move off the back wall the better the theater experience will be.

Aesthetically you may favor the the little platform but at the front wall simple and vertically flat is preferred from an acoustic standpoint.

This also becomes a factor with the use of your pocket doors. In your current scenario they effectively become more powerful that the Star Ship Enterprise 'Deflector'.

A small, simple entry to the theater is preferred because it is easier to manage from an acoustic stand point. That may not accomplish what you wish from the aesthetics you are looking for, but your 'payback' will be exceptional sound quality and more simple acoustic management.

'Bass' wanders aimlessly. Other frequencies travel more in a straight line. Bass 'traps' absorb bass reflection and their integration in no means has to be symmetric -- just well-designed. Two- to four-inches of material is preferred depending upon the 'dead air' space you may have behind the trap.

Your pocket doors will be a major point of first reflection and reverberation. Essentially, not only will you be hearing the sound out of your speakers, but the reflection of that sound off of the 35 sf of wall that the pocket doors will represent.

I tend to enjoy a 'dead room' more so than a live one, and that is pretty much the rule of thumb with your theater. Attack the point of first reflection with a band of semi-rigid fiberglass around the room at ear level, and keep your entry small and unobtrusive. One-inch in depth generally works for me but some folks go even deeper.


btw --- the 'ideal' location for your sub is more one of personal preference. I have two subs located side-by-side in my floor framing approximately 4' in front of my seating area.

That gets yah some good vibrations --- LOL

--
 
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BoberFett

Lifer
Oct 9, 1999
37,562
9
81
Slicksnake

This is all new construction, there are no walls built yet other than the two stair walls. Also, this house has floor trusses so other than the staircase walls there are no load bearing walls to worry about.

I did consider one large area, but we already have a fairly large area upstairs. There's a living/dining/kitchen area of around 600 sqft that's pretty open, and adjacent to that there's a step down family room which is around 320 sqft and only separated by a railing. The family room will have a TV also, so if there's an occasion that we do want to use the TV while doing other things, there's plenty of room for entertaining on the main level as well.

As for music downstairs, a part of my MAME cabinet project is going to be setting it up for double duty as a jukebox/karaoke machine so I plan to build it with pretty good sound by itself.

Don't get me wrong, I'm hearing what you're saying and it's still an option I would consider. It would certainly cut down on construction costs. Like I said, it's just the allure of having a dedicated HT that has been luring me in. It's just so opulent. :)

As for the straight bar, that's probably what I will end up doing. It's far more space efficient. The kitchen is directly above where the bar will be so I have water and waste to tap into easily. The nook in the corner would be a perfect spot for countertop with the fridge and kegerator underneath and nice glass cabinetry above. Then there's plenty of room for a nice long bar to seat 3 or 4 and lots of space for bar related storage. I may also do a two level countertop, counter height for prep on the window side and bar height on the other.
 

vi edit

Elite Member
Super Moderator
Oct 28, 1999
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I don't think I'd do pocket doors either. I can't help but think those things would shake, rattle, and hum with even the smallest amount of bass activity. Any upgrades in speakers you do would be negated by the vibrating unpleasantries of the doors next to you. I haven't seen a pocket door yet that didn't have some slop/play in it's track.
 

BoberFett

Lifer
Oct 9, 1999
37,562
9
81
heyheybooboo

I'm using Sketchup until I figure out what I want to do and create the actual layout in BHG Designer, a somewhat stripped down version of Chief Architect and a pretty decent pro-sumer home design program. I had a very accurate drawing of my last house as we were still thinking about remodeling, but I misplaced the USB dongle when we moved. Once I find that I'll put together a proper drawing. This is just to get ideas and see how things might look. This drawing is actually fairly accurate though. I've got the drawings from the builder, the previous owner hung onto them so all of my measurements were taken from there and I verified them. The breaker panel is in the garage, I've got 200 amp service and plenty of open room for more breakers. I may run a subpanel to the basement just to save myself the hassle of running everything up to the garage. As for ducts and pipes, there's really nothing in the way. Everything is up in the trusses so it's completely unobstructed to the ceiling. No need for soffits or other workarounds.

I could go with a single pocket door which would let me move the seating further forward and would lower the area of solid wood as you pointed out. There may have to be some give and take between aesthetics and acoustic performance, but I'm open to suggestions. I've also been doing a bit of reading about acoustic treatments at vi edit's suggestion and it seems it would fairly trivial to hang a couple well placed panels on the back, angled, and side walls to help deaden the reverb a bit.

Edit: Or to vi's point, if I was going to go with a single door I suppose it could just as easily be a standard pre-hung door. As I was originally laying this out I just liked the idea of having a large entry to the room. We shall see.

Edit 2: Wow, this guy went all out. Incredible theater. There is some discussion of pocket doors and caveats of using them. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=761723
 
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Rio Rebel

Administrator Emeritus<br>Elite Member
Oct 9, 1999
5,194
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0
Never go with in-walls or in-ceilings, unless your wife won't let you build without them and/or you like paying 3 times as much for sound that isn't quite as good.
 

heyheybooboo

Diamond Member
Jun 29, 2007
6,278
0
0
Screw it --- don't do the dedicated theater room.

Clearly you want a more 'open' floor plan or you wouldn't have angled the corner at the stair landing, put in double pocket doors, etc.

And besides, if you can achieve a throw distance in the range of 26' to 27' you can project a 10' x 6' image.

Basement02-X.jpg



1) Line up the end of the bar in the wall space between the trip hung window and sliding glass door. That way you could build a 'bar hatch' for ingress/egress. Line it up so the bar chairs are kept out of the traffic area in front of the door.

That leaves the opposite wall for your 'mini-grill' or kitchen area with the bar sink, 'fridge, George Foreman Fry Daddy, popcorn machine, etc.

A nice 'bar soffit' would be a fancy option, fer sure.

2) Rip out the wall and open the stairwell. Install a fancy floor-to-ceiling newel post at the bottom stringer to carry the header ---> which carries the floor load.

3) Don't 'furr' out the masonry walls. 'Stick build' frame walls a minimum 1-inch off the masonry and provide for ventilation behind the wall.

If you 'throw' from the bar area you can hold the frame wall 3-4 feet off the masonry for a 'utility area' corner bass trap, speaker and components, etc.

Or even better, design in the majority of your components into the bar area.





--
 

Modelworks

Lifer
Feb 22, 2007
16,240
7
76
Do not build anything sized to what you currently own, go larger. I have seen many people build places for things like TV, speakers, seats and then need an upgrade and can't find one the right size so they have to rip out what they built. If you put equipment in a closet or out of the way use conduit about twice the size in case you need to change things in the future. Plan for the future.

Covering the walls and ceiling with acoustic dampening material can make all the difference and does not have to be expensive. Wall carpet can be used on walls and is available in dark colors that looks nice when glued to the surfaces. You don't need any special audio purposed brands either, they all work nicely.