Bitlocker problem after Clean Win 10 Re Install

[spacee]

Basically I have 4 drives that I enabled Bitlocker on before I did the clean install....I was setting them up using the "mount in the following empty NTFS folder" option through disk manager to be sneaky sneaky right....after trying a few different places a few times Windows decided to start giving me an error saying "location is denied" for all drives that I would make a path for....So i thought why not just turn off bitlocker and hide two of them unlocked in one so I only have to unlock one drive....NOPPE, after going to the bitlocker options, only "unlock drive" shows up for all drives now....

And I thought I was being clever...lol

Can anyone help?

 

[VirtualLarry]

DId you export the keys to a file when you made the bitlocker disk volumes? You might be screwed, if you don't have a backup of your original OS installation.

This could happen with EFS (Encrypting FileSystem, a predecessor to BitLocker). There was a per-file key, and a "system key", and if you didn't export the system key before reformatting your system, you would lose the files, effectively.

Welcome to self-ransomware. It can happen. Encryption is not to be used foolishly, just because it's there. (I'm sort of fundamentally-opposed to Windows 10 enabling BitLocket or SED if supported by hardware (I think needs TPM support too), on a PC, just because it's capable, without the user choosing to do so. It can make recovery, backup, and upgrades much more difficult.

 

[spacee]

DId you export the keys to a file when you made the bitlocker disk volumes? You might be screwed, if you don't have a backup of your original OS installation.

This could happen with EFS (Encrypting FileSystem, a predecessor to BitLocker). There was a per-file key, and a "system key", and if you didn't export the system key before reformatting your system, you would lose the files, effectively.

Welcome to self-ransomware. It can happen. Encryption is not to be used foolishly, just because it's there. (I'm sort of fundamentally-opposed to Windows 10 enabling BitLocket or SED if supported by hardware (I think needs TPM support too), on a PC, just because it's capable, without the user choosing to do so. It can make recovery, backup, and upgrades much more difficult.

I printed the keys when windows prompted me for every drive... there is a Windows.old folder in the drive I reinstalled windows on too if that matters any.

 

[VirtualLarry]

I printed the keys when windows prompted me for every drive...

Then you sohuld be able to un-encrypt them using BitLocker commands, or PowerShell commands, something like that. I wish that I could help you more, but I don't have any first-hand experience with BitLocker yet.

 

[spacee]

Then you sohuld be able to un-encrypt them using BitLocker commands, or PowerShell commands, something like that. I wish that I could help you more, but I don't have any first-hand experience with BitLocker yet.

Shankss! Ill post an update soon, stay Tooned!

 

[spacee]

Then you sohuld be able to un-encrypt them using BitLocker commands, or PowerShell commands, something like that. I wish that I could help you more, but I don't have any first-hand experience with BitLocker yet.

My apologies for the bother again but, the keys I printed out at the time of the decryption are just to ulock the drives or removing the encryption? because I have the passwords for all the drives I just want to remove the decryption on some... I should have been a little more through.

 

[spacee]

Then you sohuld be able to un-encrypt them using BitLocker commands, or PowerShell commands, something like that. I wish that I could help you more, but I don't have any first-hand experience with BitLocker yet.

ugh you did say un-encrypt them sorry again...its late..

I tried to use command prompt but I got a message saying to check for adminstrative rights.

 

[VirtualLarry]

Try using an Administrative Command Prompt. Hit Winkey+S, type Command Prompt, right click the program icon that comes up called "Command Prompt", and select "Open as Administrator" from the menu. If your Admin account has a password on it, then you may be prompted. You should see a UAC window come up.

 

[spacee]

Try using an Administrative Command Prompt. Hit Winkey+S, type Command Prompt, right click the program icon that comes up called "Command Prompt", and select "Open as Administrator" from the menu. If your Admin account has a password on it, then you may be prompted. You should see a UAC window come up.

Huston..we have Decryption in Progress......

Im not getting any status window though, how am I suppose to know its status?

 

[VirtualLarry]

I don't know about progress bars, most Windows' command-line utilities don't have them. You should get a message at completion though.

 

[spacee]

I don't know about progress bars, most Windows' command-line utilities don't have them. You should get a message at completion though.

hmm...its gonna be a long few days, I can feel it...

 

[spacee]

I don't know about progress bars, most Windows' command-line utilities don't have them. You should get a message at completion though.

I have another little dilemma if you wouldnt mind taking a look at with me...if you dont its cool.

This one is about upgrading my current cpu to one I just got....motherboard is Asus Crosshair VI HERO AMD am4 socket and Im upgrading from a Ryzen 1700 to a Ryzen 9 3900X

Im just a little iffy about having to do a bios flash if it needs it before switching out the cpus cause the last two motherboards I tried doing a flash on bricked.

 

[VirtualLarry]

motherboard is Asus Crosshair VI HERO AMD am4 socket and Im upgrading from a Ryzen 1700 to a Ryzen 9 3900X

Im just a little iffy about having to do a bios flash if it needs it before switching out the cpus cause the last two motherboards I tried doing a flash on bricked.

Good choice.

Those last two mobos that you flashed, that were "bricked". First off, did you try clearing the CMOS using the jumper after the flash, and then waiting up to 1 full minute for POST to happen after resetting the jumper back to the "normal" position and powering up again?

Most AM4 mobos have the capability to flash the BIOS, from within the BIOS. You just (in Windows) download and un-zip the BIOS file to a USB flash drive. (I recommend a fairly small one, 16GB or smaller, though a 32GB may work. A 128GB Team Group one I tried recent wasn't recognized by the BIOS of my board.)
There's a hotkey at boot to enter the BIOS-flasher, or sometimes, a hotkey from within the BIOS menu.

That should be a fairly safe procedure, just make sure that you don't cut power, and let it do it's thing and reboot itself once or twice before going into Windows, or going into BIOS to change settings. (DON'T hit DEL immediately after the first reboot after a flash, it may need to reboot itself once or twice on it's own.)

Also, PAY CAREFUL ATTENTION to any "special instructions", necessary to flash between the version that you have on the board currently, and the one (newest, generally) BIOS that you are going to. Both Gigabyte and ASRock, require flashing a "Bridge BIOS" before flashing up to the newest, if you have an older BIOS revision onboard.

That said, I am successfully using a R5 3600 on an Asus B450-F ROG STRIX ATX board, works pretty dandy actually.

 

[spacee]

Good choice.

Those last two mobos that you flashed, that were "bricked". First off, did you try clearing the CMOS using the jumper after the flash, and then waiting up to 1 full minute for POST to happen after resetting the jumper back to the "normal" position and powering up again?

Most AM4 mobos have the capability to flash the BIOS, from within the BIOS. You just (in Windows) download and un-zip the BIOS file to a USB flash drive. (I recommend a fairly small one, 16GB or smaller, though a 32GB may work. A 128GB Team Group one I tried recent wasn't recognized by the BIOS of my board.)

That should be a fairly safe procedure, just make sure that you don't cut power, and let it do it's thing and reboot itself once or twice before going into Windows, or going into BIOS to change settings. (DON'T hit DEL immediately after the first reboot after a flash, it may need to reboot itself once or twice on it's own.)

Also, PAY CAREFUL ATTENTION to any "special instructions", necessary to flash between the version that you have on the board currently, and the one (newest, generally) BIOS that you are going to. Both Gigabyte and ASRock, require flashing a "Bridge BIOS" before flashing up to the newest, if you have an older BIOS revision onboard.

That said, I am successfully using a R5 3600 on an Asus B450-F ROG STRIX ATX board, works pretty dandy actually.

yeah I almost went with a threadripper but same performance and all guess it was a no brainer..

Honestly I basicly tried everything except doing it from within the bios so Ill have to take a look at that option again....and yes I did clear the cmos a few times, I suppose there is a slight chance I didnt wait long enough before trying to power up the pc.

And yes these mobos do have the ability to flash it from within the bios I did it with the flash button the last couple times. Ill have to try it from in the BIOS next!

The usb i have is 30 gb

You game on that R5?

 

[spacee]

ughh site is slow at sending replies..

 

[VirtualLarry]

You game on that R5?

LOL. Maybe eventually. Right now, I've got a ... 1GB Zotac GT630 card in it.

But I've got an MSI Ventus GTX 1660 ti 6GB shipping to me in a day or two. (I hope!)

 

[spacee]

LOL. Maybe eventually. Right now, I've got a ... 1GB Zotac GT630 card in it.

But I've got an MSI Ventus GTX 1660 ti 6GB shipping to me in a day or two. (I hope!)

LOL. Maybe eventually. Right now, I've got a ... 1GB Zotac GT630 card in it.

But I've got an MSI Ventus GTX 1660 ti 6GB shipping to me in a day or two. (I hope!)

Sweeeeeeeet.... lmao you got steam?

 

[VirtualLarry]

Yeah, I have a Steam account, I don't even have it installed on this PC. But it could be a semi-killer gaming rig with that card, when it arrives. I've got a 40" 4K UHD TV that I'm using as a monitor. Only 60Hz, but it was inexpensive.

Edit: I was told that the GTX 1660 ti was a somewhat 4K-capable gaming card, even if you had to turn down a few settings to do so. I don't need "Ultra" quality preset.