Best year for older trucks?

AreaCode707

Lifer
Sep 21, 2001
18,447
133
106
Looking to buy a secondhand truck soon. Beater truck is fine, just need it to run reliably. What's the best make/model/year for getting a truck? (Looking under $2k in the Seattle area.)
 

thedarkwolf

Diamond Member
Oct 13, 1999
9,024
118
106
none. Just buy the one that in the best shape for the $2k. Ford, Chevy, Dodge, Nissan, Toyota, whatever.
 

Billb2

Diamond Member
Mar 25, 2005
3,035
70
86
For $2K you're going to get your choice of clunkers. Make/model/year will be much less important than actual condition.
 

Bignate603

Lifer
Sep 5, 2000
13,897
1
0
Your best bet is to buy the best maintained vehicle you can find for the money. You'll be better off getting an older truck rather than a newer one that's been abused or neglected.
 

Demon-Xanth

Lifer
Feb 15, 2000
20,551
2
81
As long as it's not between about 78 and 88, you're good. During those years, everything was shit. Before they were so simple there wasn't much to go wrong, afterwards, they figured out EFI much better.
 

BeauJangles

Lifer
Aug 26, 2001
13,941
1
0
Yeah, it seems to me like the domestic auto manufacturers all churn out pretty good trucks. I have no idea what the long-term reliability will be on the newer models with all their fancy BS in them, but anything from the 90s or early 00s, if properly maintained, will run like a champion.
 

compman25

Diamond Member
Jan 12, 2006
3,767
2
81
Originally posted by: Demon-Xanth
As long as it's not between about 78 and 88, you're good. During those years, everything was shit. Before they were so simple there wasn't much to go wrong, afterwards, they figured out EFI much better.

That's pretty wrong. 78 and 79 were the last yrs Ford made a great pick up. 80 and up I agree.
 

brblx

Diamond Member
Mar 23, 2009
5,499
2
0
80's TBI trucks are still pretty damned simple and reliable. but for 2k you could definately get a port injected truck from the 90's.
 

AreaCode707

Lifer
Sep 21, 2001
18,447
133
106
So based on your comments, would something like this be a good bet, assuming it runs as well as advertised? (May not, since it's so cheap.) No likely electrical problems from 90s Fords or such?

http://seattle.craigslist.org/est/cto/1378472276.html

Thanks guys!

1990 Ford F150 Lariat 2wd - $950 (Issaquah / Renton)


What a great deal! This pickup has had an easy life. The 96k miles are very low for the age and the truck runs great. The Ford paint job has some problems as do many of the Fords from the early 90s, but with some TLC this truck will last a long time.

A few more details:
5.0 Litre V8 engine
F150 Lariat
Auomatic
AM/FM Cassette
Cloth Seats
Cargo Light
Power windows
Power locks
Body is in good condition
Tires have very low mileage

This truck can go many more miles before any major work is needed so it would be a great truck for assisting with those weekend projects.
 

Demon-Xanth

Lifer
Feb 15, 2000
20,551
2
81
That would probably be a good one. You can get 302 parts from a gumball machine. It's kinda ugly, but looks don't make it go.
 

AreaCode707

Lifer
Sep 21, 2001
18,447
133
106
Originally posted by: Demon-Xanth
That would probably be a good one. You can get 302 parts from a gumball machine. It's kinda ugly, but looks don't make it go.

It'll mostly be covered in mud, hay, and goat feed so ugly is ok. :) If I want to go somewhere in style I make Zenmervolt pull his car out of the garage and take me. So the ad doesn't scream "look out!"?
 

CrackRabbit

Lifer
Mar 30, 2001
16,642
62
91
Originally posted by: AreaCode707
Originally posted by: Demon-Xanth
That would probably be a good one. You can get 302 parts from a gumball machine. It's kinda ugly, but looks don't make it go.

It'll mostly be covered in mud, hay, and goat feed so ugly is ok. :) If I want to go somewhere in style I make Zenmervolt pull his car out of the garage and take me. So the ad doesn't scream "look out!"?

The rust on the cab should probably be looked at, and give a good once over for major rust anywhere else. Other than that it looks like a good candidate for a farm truck.
 

Vette73

Lifer
Jul 5, 2000
21,503
9
0
Originally posted by: thedarkwolf
none. Just buy the one that in the best shape for the $2k. Ford, Chevy, Dodge, Nissan, Toyota, whatever.

This.


I rather have a full size GMC/Chevy but I found a great 1994 mazda B4000. Bought it for $2k. Runs great after tune up.
 

AreaCode707

Lifer
Sep 21, 2001
18,447
133
106
Originally posted by: CrackRabbit
Originally posted by: AreaCode707
Originally posted by: Demon-Xanth
That would probably be a good one. You can get 302 parts from a gumball machine. It's kinda ugly, but looks don't make it go.

It'll mostly be covered in mud, hay, and goat feed so ugly is ok. :) If I want to go somewhere in style I make Zenmervolt pull his car out of the garage and take me. So the ad doesn't scream "look out!"?

The rust on the cab should probably be looked at, and give a good once over for major rust anywhere else. Other than that it looks like a good candidate for a farm truck.

Email back from the seller:
Yes the truck is in good running condition. A couple of items which need to be looked at are: Temp gauge isn't working and the muffler needs to be replace. The engine runs great!

Sounds like nothing I couldn't address within my budget. Making an appointment to test drive, yay!
 

Bignate603

Lifer
Sep 5, 2000
13,897
1
0
As long as the drive train is in good condition it could be a very good deal. For a farm truck I'd personally be willing to accept a decent amount of body rust as long as the drive train was solid.
 

AreaCode707

Lifer
Sep 21, 2001
18,447
133
106
Originally posted by: Bignate603
As long as the drive train is in good condition it could be a very good deal. For a farm truck I'd personally be willing to accept a decent amount of body rust as long as the drive train was solid.

Cars also don't tend to rust very fast in this area. A spot of rust doesn't turn into a mega problem very quickly. When ZV first moved out here he couldn't believe the "old" cars he saw on the road.... he was used to things rusting away from salt and snow. :)
 

Bignate603

Lifer
Sep 5, 2000
13,897
1
0
Originally posted by: AreaCode707
Originally posted by: Bignate603
As long as the drive train is in good condition it could be a very good deal. For a farm truck I'd personally be willing to accept a decent amount of body rust as long as the drive train was solid.

Cars also don't tend to rust very fast in this area. A spot of rust doesn't turn into a mega problem very quickly. When ZV first moved out here he couldn't believe the "old" cars he saw on the road.... he was used to things rusting away from salt and snow. :)

I had an old cherokee that had massive holes through it. It still ran great and for what I wanted it was perfectly fine. As long as it has enough of a body left to do what you want it to do a work/utility vehicle can be ugly as sin.
 

AreaCode707

Lifer
Sep 21, 2001
18,447
133
106
Thanks all! Orsorum and I went to look at it today and he wound up buying it. I decided I want to hold out for a manual. The guy has a second truck he plans to sell soon too, 1981 Chevy with 71k miles, manual 4WD. Body/paint is a bit more beat up (belonged to his grandfather who was losing some vision and kept backing it into stuff) but he says it doesn't need other work. Any big red warning signs with an 81 Chevy? Sounds like maybe not a good year, per the below?

Originally posted by: Demon-Xanth
As long as it's not between about 78 and 88, you're good. During those years, everything was shit. Before they were so simple there wasn't much to go wrong, afterwards, they figured out EFI much better.

 

Zenmervolt

Elite member
Oct 22, 2000
24,514
34
91
Chevy C/K series were solid trucks. I'm a Ford guy, but I'll still give the older C/K series respect. Stay away from the 5.7 litre Diesel, but the other engines should be solid.

The manuals in the C/K pickups, especially the 4-speed Saginaw Muncie SM465, are damn near indestructible. The 4-speed is sometimes referred to as a "three and a half" speed transmission because it's essentially a 3-speed with a "creeper" first gear (IIRC 1st gear has you redlining somewhere between 5 and 10 miles per hour) added on. Most of the time you'll only need 2nd through 4th, but that "granny gear" first really helps for towing/hauling.

ZV
 

waffleironhead

Diamond Member
Aug 10, 2005
7,019
516
136
Originally posted by: Zenmervolt
Chevy C/K series were solid trucks. I'm a Ford guy, but I'll still give the older C/K series respect. Stay away from the 5.7 litre Diesel, but the other engines should be solid.

The manuals in the C/K pickups, especially the 4-speed Saginaw Muncie SM465, are damn near indestructible. The 4-speed is sometimes referred to as a "three and a half" speed transmission because it's essentially a 3-speed with a "creeper" first gear (IIRC 1st gear has you redlining somewhere between 5 and 10 miles per hour) added on. Most of the time you'll only need 2nd through 4th, but that "granny gear" first really helps for towing/hauling.

ZV

I learned to drive manual on an old chevy, and you just brought back memories of that shift pattern. I remember having to shift midway thru an intersection because the engine was racing so high. If only someone had told me back then that you could safely start in second. granny gear indeed.
 

Bignate603

Lifer
Sep 5, 2000
13,897
1
0
Originally posted by: Zenmervolt
Chevy C/K series were solid trucks. I'm a Ford guy, but I'll still give the older C/K series respect. Stay away from the 5.7 litre Diesel, but the other engines should be solid.

The manuals in the C/K pickups, especially the 4-speed Saginaw Muncie SM465, are damn near indestructible. The 4-speed is sometimes referred to as a "three and a half" speed transmission because it's essentially a 3-speed with a "creeper" first gear (IIRC 1st gear has you redlining somewhere between 5 and 10 miles per hour) added on. Most of the time you'll only need 2nd through 4th, but that "granny gear" first really helps for towing/hauling.

ZV

Heh, sounds like the SM420 that's swapped into my jeep. On pavement I never use 1st gear.