Best way to bore a hole in acrylic?

[Jeff7]

I think it's acrylic, or plexiglas anyway - a case window. It's about 1/8" thick; I need to bore a 3/4" diameter hole in it, without cracking it! I put too much time into it already - it unfortunately is already mounted in the case panel, with that horrible-to-work-with molding with a locking strip; it took me about 3 hours to get the locking strip in! But anyway, the window is in place, and I know realized that I wanted to put this hole in it. I had already cracked another case panel by drilling a hole in it, but that was a small one. I'd be worried about using anything larger. Would I be safer to just put the switch on the front of the case maybe?

 

[neo4s]

I used a cutting disk on my dremel to cut some plexiglass (streight line cuts)... and i noticed that the disk would heat up and do more melting than cutting. So maybe you could figure a way to melt it. If you drill, just start with a small bit and slowly work up to the bigger size bits. It would be a lot easier to drill on a drill press with the plexiglass clamped down.

 

[NordicNINE]

You should be able to drill a hole in it.

I used a normal cordless drill and some bits that looked a bit different. I'm not sure what you'd call them, but they look almost like a normal bit, but they have more of a point in the middle and the edges are raised a bit and sharper. I just went slow and didn't push against the acrylic. I had to drill about 10 holes and didn't have any cracks.

 

[Jeff7]

Oh duh, and I have a piece of plexi that I snapped by trying to drill it - with a hand drill.
SNAP.
A drill press did much better though; I'll just practice on that scrap piece. And my dad tells me to throw junk away...geez.

 

[OulOat]

If you go slowly and gently, the acrylic won't melt or crack. Take your time and let it cool often.

 

[Jolt2]

I cut and do some plastic welding at work and the best thing I have found to cut plastic with is a Roto-zip saw. It makes nice smooth, clean cuts. It is also hard to control by freehand, so I always use a guide bar clamped to the surface to act as a guide for the saw. The key to the clean cutting is the Roto-zip's blades. As with any tool like this, if you stop or pause while cutting, you will melt the plastic at that spot. Keep the cutter moving and that is were the guide or jig helps you.

 

[Technonut]

I have done a good bit of drilling holes in acrylic, and have found that wood paddle bits work very well. You can pick up a nice pack with assorted sizes at any hardware store. Just drill slowly and don't push... Let the drill do the work.

 

[Jeff7]

Oh heck with it, I think I'm just going to put the switch on the front with the rest of the buttons; I don't want to risk breaking or even just scratching this window. I don't want to struggle any more, or waste anymore money on this; I've spent enough on case modding for now.
Thanks for all the suggestions though.
Yeah, I think I'll make a "mini baybus" out of the remaining 3.5" faceplate. I have to remove all the optical drives in order to remove the front panel anyway.

 

[easystreet]

Just go slow and make sure you have proper support on the underside when using a drill bit.

 

[RossGr]

Plexi and acrylic drill very nicly. BUT a 3/4" hole through 1/8" material can cause some troubles. The bit will grab when it breaks through, this can cause cracked plexi and cracked knuckles if you do not have it well supported and clamped down. A good way to do it is to clamp the plexi between 2 piece of plywood, then drill through the whole sandwich. This will give you the best hole. Always clamp your work and wear eye protection.

 

[Macro2]

--I have done a good bit of drilling holes in acrylic, and have found that wood paddle bits work very well. You can pick up a nice pack with assorted sizes at any hardware store. Just drill slowly and don't push... Let the drill do the work.---

And lay it on a piece of wood...so that when you go through it doesn't jerk and screw it up

 

[CaptnKirk]

You may want to drill a 1/8" Dia. hole - light pressure, then use a Dremel to to rout out the hole to the finish size.

You can lay down a wide strip of tape on both sides to resist scratching and back it up with a wood block.

 

[Ness]

Originally posted by: easystreet
Just go slow and make sure you have proper support on the underside when using a drill bit.

This, or, if you have the patience (sp?) make a 1/4" hole, then use sandpaper and sand until it's the right size