Best paintbrush for applying stain/polyuerethane?

[MichaelD]

I built the cage for my snake. Wait...that didn't sound right! Um, remember my post from a couple weeks back about joining plywood, etc? Fine, I don't remember your post either. J/K.

Anyway, it's built. I don't have the glass for the doors yet ($200!!!!! :Q) but that's coming. In the meantime, I need to get 2-3 coats of stain/polyuerethane on it. It's huge box (84 x 30 x 30) so I'll be using at least a 3-inch brush.

What's the best kind of brush to use? I'll be throwing the brush away when I'm done, so I don't mean "best" as in a gold-handled, made in Switzerland, virgin mountain girl haired brush. I mean "best brush" as in disposable foam? Horsehair? Synthetic? I just want the varnish to go on easily and the brush to not fall apart...which is what happens w/the disposable foam brushes.

But then again, the foams are so cheap that I just buy a dozen and throw each one away after about 10 minutes of use.

Recommendations, please. Thank you.

 

[Evadman]

You want a good brush that is feathered on the end. ( where the strands have been split, so it is soft in your hand ) make sure whatever brush you get, you pull on the bristles HARD to pull out any loose ones. They will ruin the finish real quick when they come out.

I would go with the brand called "Purdy". I have had good results with them. Get a gallon of thinner ( $2 ) and clean out the brush when you are done. make sure to clean it relly well between the stain and poly. If you get stain in the poly, you can "marbalize" the poly, and end up with streaks.

 

[MichaelD]

Great advice, Evadman. Thanks very much. I do exactly that. I know that Home Depot has those Purdy brushes, as I saw them last time I was in that aisle. Have a great day.

 

[lepper boy]

What was mentioned above also, a Lamb's wool applicator works Excellent.. you use those on hard wood floors, they also make small ones... might be a bit more then a brush, but you can't beat the job it will do.

dave

 

[Lvis]

The brush should be made of china brissle. Purdy makes these, and are a pretty good value. Nylon and polyester are not what you want using an oil based finish. (even if they are cheaper)

Foam brushes work well, when used to "tip off" a finish. The technique is called rolling and tipping. You roll the finsh on using a foam roller cover, then "tip off" the bubbles.

Using a foam brush by itself, is harder than it might appear. It's quite difficult to tell how much your putting on with them, so its hard to get an even coating.

If you have any questions, just ask. I make my living painting and varnishing boats. 18 years

 

[MichaelD]

<< If you have any questions, just ask. I make my living painting and varnishing boats. 18 years >>



Wow. *bows* It's hard to beat that kind of experience! The wood is plywood. The kind that's finished on one side and rough on the other. On the finished side, I've already run a belt sander over it, so it's pretty even and smooth. The rough side I did nothing to, and it wont' really be visible. This cage is going to sit on a stand in a nook in my dining room.

The top of the cage will be about 7 feet up in the air and the sides will be about a foot from the walls...you won't see the outside. I'm going to varnish/poly the outside anyway, though. Prolly just one coat on the outside, but two coats each of varnish/poly on the inside.

The inside will be exposed to moisture and occasional water spills (big snakes like to flip their water bowls over and piss you off ) I was plannin on using the Minwax Helmsman poly, b/c according to Minwax, it's "for surfaces that will be exposed to water and moisture" is this a good idea?

Thanks for volunteering your assistance.

 

[MomAndSkoorbaby]

I did my entertainment center with a foam brush and it worked perfectly!

 

[Lvis]

MInwax is pretty good stuff, and should protect things well. Three coats would be better though. Varnish does a really poor job of waterproofing. If you can't coat the bottom of it with epoxy, you should put as much varnish on as you can.

You might be disapointed with the sanding marks left by the belt sander... Belt sanders are carpentry tools, rather than finishing tools.

While the sanding marks probably don't show up now, they probably will after the stain goes on. If the sandpaper was fine enough and you ran the machine with the grain, you might be alright though.

I mentioned in your last post about how the varnish will"outgas" for awhile. It could harm your snake. I've slept in boats that had been varnished 6 weeks before, and awakened with nasty headaches. And this was with the ports open. I would imaging this was not unlike your snakes new house! The floor, or cabin sole of these had minwax on them btw.

Good luck

 

[MichaelD]

Thanks for the vote of confidence, Mrs. Skoorb. How's Alabama?

L Vis, yes, I remember you mentioning about the varnish "outgassing" after I'm done staining and sealing, it will sit for a few weeks before I put the snake in there. Thanks for reminding me.

As far as the finish goes....I DID move the belt sander with the grain...it feels pretty smooth, but I do understand what you mean. I'm hoping for the best, as this thing is just too big for me to go over by hand with a piece of 600-grit paper. <--lazy, I know

I know that varnish is not waterproofing material, but the polyeurethane (Minwax Helmsman) is. At least according to the website it is.

It says "Minwax® Helmsman® Spar Urethane is specially formulated to withstand the worst environmental conditions. Minwax® Helmsman® Spar Urethane provides a finish that protects your wood from the damages of rain and moisture." So, I'm hoping it'll do a good job against the occasional water-spill. I should be OK.

Thanks for all your help.