I have a nice Philips 107 17" monitor with a broken base plate tab(the piece that fits in the slot on the bottom of the monitor). Anyone know of a good type of glue/adhesive/cement that I could use to bond the tab back to base? Thanks
Best glue to fix monitor base?
- Thread starter DieHardware
- Start date
Modelling glue?
Just be careful with it. It only likes to be photographed from the left side, and if a magazine or something offers a deal, it tends to let fame go to its head.
Just be careful with it. It only likes to be photographed from the left side, and if a magazine or something offers a deal, it tends to let fame go to its head.
apoppin
Lifer
Super Glue may work - especially if plastic needs to be joined to plastic.
It also depends on "how" it was broken and what "pressure" will be on the joint.
JB Weld works for many things automotive and can bond different types of materials (such as metal to plastic) to each other (but it has a "larger" bead weld).
Edit: I find myself agreeing more with the specific 2-part "epoxy" for plastic (read the product label - different types of plastics resist rebonding). And the "over-engineering" ideas (read on) are pretty good if you are going to stress the monitor in the same way you broke it originally.
And if it is still under warranty, the "RMA Glue" works best.
It also depends on "how" it was broken and what "pressure" will be on the joint.
JB Weld works for many things automotive and can bond different types of materials (such as metal to plastic) to each other (but it has a "larger" bead weld).
Edit: I find myself agreeing more with the specific 2-part "epoxy" for plastic (read the product label - different types of plastics resist rebonding). And the "over-engineering" ideas (read on) are pretty good if you are going to stress the monitor in the same way you broke it originally.
And if it is still under warranty, the "RMA Glue" works best.
Superglue works great for clean breaks in plastic. If there was any stretching/deformation of the parts the chances of it working plummet. It's no gap filler.
Good ol Duro 5 min epoxy may work out nicely. Similar strength to JB Weld on plastic, little cheaper and is clear instead of dark gray. I've tried "plastic specific" epoxy and found it worked no better, just cost a lot more and stunk to high hell. If you go with any of these three using a sanding board to roughen up the surface where glue is to be applied can help quite a bit.
Whatever you do the break is going to be weaker and likely break again if it gets stressed. Is the slide out tab hollow underneath where you could glue something in place to reenforce it?
I'd probably take it apart, glue it back together for fit, then drill it and support it with steel rods. But I like to overengineer.
--Mc
Good ol Duro 5 min epoxy may work out nicely. Similar strength to JB Weld on plastic, little cheaper and is clear instead of dark gray. I've tried "plastic specific" epoxy and found it worked no better, just cost a lot more and stunk to high hell. If you go with any of these three using a sanding board to roughen up the surface where glue is to be applied can help quite a bit.
Whatever you do the break is going to be weaker and likely break again if it gets stressed. Is the slide out tab hollow underneath where you could glue something in place to reenforce it?
I'd probably take it apart, glue it back together for fit, then drill it and support it with steel rods. But I like to overengineer.
--Mc
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