Most stability issues are caused by bad/corrupt software. The risk of hardware failure is low if you have adequate cooling to the MB, CPU, RAM, chipset, HDD, and GPU. I always make an image file of my OS after loading all the drivers. With this image file, I can quickly restore the PC to the as-load-condition to eliminate any software problem.
I have the opportunity to evaluate a lot of boards during my spare time. The Abit IP35-E is a board that work exactly as advertised right out of the box. No need to update BIOS or access the web for the latest drivers. I'd wait for a sale or rebate to get in under $100.
A modern CPU has eliminated a lot of inequalities between boards. Gone are the days when one board would be 5% better than another in real-world conditions. It comes down to the extra bells and whistles and how much you want to overclock that CPU with low multiplier. I prize a cool-running board (low power consumption) capable of reaching 475MHz FSB. The ability to accurately and smoothly control the cooling fans is also very important since I do not load both cores to the max (Othos, TAT, or S&M heat mode).
There's a trend to populate the board with all solid caps so that the manufacturer can charge a significant premium for the board. A well-designed board should not cause any capacitor to overheat. If you can't touch the top of the capacitor for more than 10 seconds, then it is probably too warm for long-term use. 105C Electrolytic caps have been around for decades and will last for a minimum of 7 to 10 years if they come from a reputable vendor (United Chemicon, Matsushita, Sanyo, etc). I only look for low-profile solid caps around the CPU area to facilitate the installation of a large CPU air cooler.
Finally, look for a
FULL SIZE ATX board if you plan to do any extreme overclocking. You want as much surface area as possible to dissipate the extra heat.
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