Best Bang for the Buck? Please critique my Cyberpower Gaming PC setup

sahlinja

Junior Member
Feb 16, 2008
23
0
0
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Case: CYBERPOWERPC X-Titan 200 Full Tower Gaming Case w/ USB 3.0, Fan Control, EZ Swap HDD Dock, Side Panel Window (White Color)
Power Supply: 750 Watts - Corsair CSM Series CS750M 80 Plus Gold Certified Modular Ultra Quiet Power Supply
CPU: Intel® Core™ i7-4820K Quad-Core 3.70 GHz 10MB Intel Smart Cache LGA2011 (All Venom OC Certified)
HDD : 1TB Samsung 840 EVO Series SATA-III 6.0Gb/s SSD - 540MB/s Read & 520MB/s Write
HDD2: 1TB Western Digital Caviar Blue SATA-III 6.0Gb/s 7200 RPM HDD
MEMORY: 16GB (4GBx4) DDR3/1866MHz Quad Channel Memory (G.SKILL Ripjaws X)
MOTHERBOARD : GIGABYTE X79-UP4 ATX w/ Ultra Durable 5, GblAN, 4 GEn3 PCIe x16, 2 PCIe x1, 1 PCI
SOUND : Creative Sound Blaster ZX 5.1 Channels 24-bit 96KHz PCIe Sound Card w/Multi-channel surround, SBX Pro Studio, Sound Core3D Processor & Audio Control Module
VIDEO: AMD Radeon R9 290 4GB GDDR5 PCIe 3.0 x16 Video Card (Major Brand Powered by AMD)
Optical Drive 1: 24X Double Layer Dual Format DVD+-R/+-RW + CD-R/RW Drive (BLACK COLOR)
Optical Drive 2: LG 16X Internal Blu-ray Burner, BD-RE, DVD+RW Combo Drive (Black Color)
Software: Microsoft® Windows 8.1 (64-bit Edition), Microsoft® Office 2013 (64-bit Edition), McAfee AntiVirus Plus 2014

Cost: $2,559.00


Is there anything you would change about this setup?
 
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sahlinja

Junior Member
Feb 16, 2008
23
0
0
1. What YOUR PC will be used for. That means what types of tasks you'll be performing.

Mostly gaming. I want to play all the latest and greatest games. Occasionally I will use MS office.

2. What YOUR budget is. A price range is acceptable as long as it's not more than a 20% spread

Absolute maximum is $3000, but I want to stay in the $2000 or less range. Cheaper is better if the performance increase is insignificant.

3. What country YOU will be buying YOUR parts from.

I'm in california.

4. IF you're buying parts OUTSIDE the US, please post a link to the vendor you'll be buying from.
We can't be expected to scour the internet on your behalf, chasing down deals in your specific country... Again, help us, help YOU.


N/A

5. IF YOU have a brand preference. That means, are you an Intel-Fanboy, AMD-Fanboy, ATI-Fanboy, nVidia-Fanboy, Seagate-Fanboy, WD-Fanboy, etc.

Whatever works best and is reliable. Not a fanboy of anything really.

6. If YOU intend on using any of YOUR current parts, and if so, what those parts are.

Nope, probably going to give my old PC to my folks.

7. IF YOU plan on overclocking or run the system at default speeds.

No OCing probably

8. What resolution, not monitor size, will you be using?

I plan on buying a 32 inch monitor, 1080p probably, since 4K is out of my budget range

9. WHEN do you plan to build it?
Note that it is usually not cost or time effective to choose your build more than a month before you actually plan to be using it.


I don't know how to build PC's, but I know a friend who can. I may have to buy it from cyberpower if my friend doesn't have time to build it.
 
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DSF

Diamond Member
Oct 6, 2007
4,902
0
71
Building a PC is pretty straightforward. With your friend looking over your shoulder you ought to be done in two hours or less. If you're willing to forgo the tech support (and it sounds like you are if you're pondering letting your friend build it) I would strongly consider building it yourself.

Is the 32-inch monitor going to double as a TV? If not, that's an uncomfortably large size to be running 1080P. True computer monitors in that size range are likely to be 1440P. They're also pretty pricey.
 

sahlinja

Junior Member
Feb 16, 2008
23
0
0
Yeah, it may double as my TV for when I watch netflix and hulu

You're probably right about 1080p being too low of a resolution. What do you think about this one, Best Gaming Monitor According to Cnet:
http://www.cnet.com/products/hp-zr2740w/

Is there any other gaming monitor you would recommend? Preferably 27 inches and bigger
 
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Aug 11, 2008
10,451
642
126
A very nice system, but you could get the same or very close performance for a lot less money. For instance, go with a smaller SSD and a 4770k instead of the 2011 quad core. Especially if you dont plan to overclock, the new devils canyon 4790k on a z97 board is probably the best choice, but wont be available until end of this month.
 

Freddy1765

Senior member
May 3, 2011
389
1
81
If you're in the market for a 1440p monitor, take a look at the Dell U2713HM - I bought one of these about two months ago, really liking it. Not sure about TV capabilities though, and it's not a "gaming" monitor per se, being IPS and 60Hz.

You should seriously consider picking parts and assembling yourself, you will most likely end up with a better machine for less cash- it's also really fun building a PC.
Sometimes I feel like researching/buying/assembling is more fun than gaming ;)

It may seem like a daunting prospect, but there are so many instructive videos on YouTube to guide you every step of the way; it's downright difficult doing something the wrong way if you just take your time.

EDIT: Here's what I would probably end up buying if I were in the market for a new gaming PC.

CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($339.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U14S 55.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($64.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus Z97-A ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($149.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Crucial 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($84.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($199.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon R9 290 4GB Tri-X Video Card ($424.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design Arc Midi R2 ATX Mid Tower Case ($124.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: SeaSonic 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($129.99 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 (32/64-bit) ($119.99 @ Newegg)
Monitor: Dell U2713HM 60Hz 27.0" Monitor ($699.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $2399.88
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-06-11 07:01 EDT-0400)
 
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NewYorksFinest

Senior member
Mar 27, 2014
455
1
0
1. What YOUR PC will be used for. That means what types of tasks you'll be performing.

Mostly gaming. I want to play all the latest and greatest games. Occasionally I will use MS office.

2. What YOUR budget is. A price range is acceptable as long as it's not more than a 20% spread

Absolute maximum is $3000, but I want to stay in the $2000 or less range. Cheaper is better if the performance increase is insignificant.

3. What country YOU will be buying YOUR parts from.

I'm in california.

4. IF you're buying parts OUTSIDE the US, please post a link to the vendor you'll be buying from.
We can't be expected to scour the internet on your behalf, chasing down deals in your specific country... Again, help us, help YOU.


N/A

5. IF YOU have a brand preference. That means, are you an Intel-Fanboy, AMD-Fanboy, ATI-Fanboy, nVidia-Fanboy, Seagate-Fanboy, WD-Fanboy, etc.

Whatever works best and is reliable. Not a fanboy of anything really.

6. If YOU intend on using any of YOUR current parts, and if so, what those parts are.

Nope, probably going to give my old PC to my folks.

7. IF YOU plan on overclocking or run the system at default speeds.

No OCing probably

8. What resolution, not monitor size, will you be using?

I plan on buying a 32 inch monitor, 1080p probably, since 4K is out of my budget range

9. WHEN do you plan to build it?
Note that it is usually not cost or time effective to choose your build more than a month before you actually plan to be using it.


I don't know how to build PC's, but I know a friend who can. I may have to buy it from cyberpower if my friend doesn't have time to build it.

If you're in the market for a 1440p monitor, take a look at the Dell U2713HM - I bought one of these about two months ago, really liking it. Not sure about TV capabilities though, and it's not a "gaming" monitor per se, being IPS and 60Hz.

You should seriously consider picking parts and assembling yourself, you will most likely end up with a better machine for less cash- it's also really fun building a PC.
Sometimes I feel like researching/buying/assembling is more fun than gaming ;)

It may seem like a daunting prospect, but there are so many instructive videos on YouTube to guide you every step of the way; it's downright difficult doing something the wrong way if you just take your time.

EDIT: Here's what I would probably end up buying if I were in the market for a new gaming PC.

CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($339.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U14S 55.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($64.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus Z97-A ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($149.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Crucial 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($84.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($199.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon R9 290 4GB Tri-X Video Card ($424.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design Arc Midi R2 ATX Mid Tower Case ($124.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: SeaSonic 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($129.99 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 (32/64-bit) ($119.99 @ Newegg)
Monitor: Dell U2713HM 60Hz 27.0" Monitor ($699.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $2399.88
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-06-11 07:01 EDT-0400)

OP said no overclocking. Try again...
 

DigDog

Lifer
Jun 3, 2011
14,811
3,090
136
OP said no overclocking. Try again...
nope.

that list is perfect. he might not OC today but no reason to change teh parts. in 3 years (because that rig will easily last 3 years) when stuff becomes slow, he can OC it to get more out of it. and i bet you in 3 years he will be into overclocking.

(the only thing i would change is to a EVGA 750W PSU because its like $10 more but its well worth it)

also, what aigomorla and lehtv said.
 
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DSF

Diamond Member
Oct 6, 2007
4,902
0
71
nope.

that list is perfect. he might not OC today but no reason to change teh parts. in 3 years (because that rig will easily last 3 years) when stuff becomes slow, he can OC it to get more out of it. and i bet you in 3 years he will be into overclocking.

(the only thing i would change is to a EVGA 750W PSU because its like $10 more but its well worth it)

also, what aigomorla and lehtv said.

Can you elaborate on your reasoning?

From where I'm sitting a $330 processor is unnecessary in a gaming rig. For the "latest and greatest" games he'll generally be GPU-limited, especially at such a high res. Granted there are some games that are heavier on the CPU than they used to be, like BF4, but even those are handled by an i5 with no trouble.

Then you recommend an EVGA PSU for more money without any reason whatsoever other than "it's well worth it". What's well worth it? EVGA doesn't even build their own PSUs, and Seasonic is the best in the business. If you want to talk quality it makes zero sense to spend more for an inferior product. If you want to talk wattage there are other 750W PSUs out there for less money.

Not that I would spend $130 on a PSU when quality models go on sale for under $90-100 regularly.
 

DigDog

Lifer
Jun 3, 2011
14,811
3,090
136
the 750W EVGA is exactly the same $$ as the seasonic. you can read the review at jonnyguru, there's nothing to be left wanting from that psu.

re: CPU, first off K models hold their value much longer. second, as i already typed above, they can be overclocked if needed (or if just to see what the fuss is all about).
i got an extra year of life out of my E6600 because from 2.4Ghz it ran at 3.2. im pretty sure the extra $30 is worth it.

not all games are GPU bound either. also, you really dont want to couple a R290 with anything else, do you?
 

mfenn

Elite Member
Jan 17, 2010
22,400
5
71
www.mfenn.com
the 750W EVGA is exactly the same $$ as the seasonic. you can read the review at jonnyguru, there's nothing to be left wanting from that psu.

It's still a $130 PSU, which is way more than you need to spend on a single-GPU machine. EVGA's SuperNova 650 G (2nd gen) power supplies are built on a quite nice SuperFlower platform and cost $60 AR.

re: CPU, first off K models hold their value much longer. second, as i already typed above, they can be overclocked if needed (or if just to see what the fuss is all about).
i got an extra year of life out of my E6600 because from 2.4Ghz it ran at 3.2. im pretty sure the extra $30 is worth it.

The i7 is what makes it unecessary, not the K. The difference between the i7 and i5 is much more than $30. On a gaming rig, getting an i5 4670K for $240 (or 4690K when available, whichever costs less) and then spending the $100 savings on the GPU would get you overall better performance.
 

Freddy1765

Senior member
May 3, 2011
389
1
81
The i7 is what makes it unecessary, not the K. The difference between the i7 and i5 is much more than $30. On a gaming rig, getting an i5 4670K for $240 (or 4690K when available, whichever costs less) and then spending the $100 savings on the GPU would get you overall better performance.

I think it's a little premature calling the i7 unnecessary. With all the new "next-gen" games coming out, it's entirely possible they'll benefit from more than 4c/4t. Obviously that's all speculation, but OP seems to have a rather substantial budget to work with, so saving a mere $100 on what could end up as a bottleneck from the get-go seems a poor choice.
If he were to run with the list I compiled but, say, get the MX100 and a cheaper PSU instead, as per suggestions in this thread, those savings more than cover the 4690k/4790k price delta.

If I were buying a gaming PC today (well, when 4790k becomes available), there's no question I'd get the i7 and not think twice about it.
 
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DigDog

Lifer
Jun 3, 2011
14,811
3,090
136
but OP seems to have a rather substantial budget to work with
my point exactly.

sure you can go cheaper, but that build is (magic word) balanced.
and it's not like we're telling him to go hexacore and titans, either.

(btw,where do you find a superflower for sixty bucks?)