Back from the dead...H20 help please

[Infrnl]

Some may know about a year ago I planned to watercool my system, but Aigo/Naekuh/Terry talked me into Distributed computing and I got out of control.

Anyway; I am making some changes and getting ready for the new hardware of the year.

I currently have my Bloodrage and a giggy x58-UD4P. I plan to use the Bloodrage as my main system for now till W555 comes.

Parts I currently have:

Mountain Mods Ext Ascension
Koolance cpu-360 rev 1.0

Parts planned:
Rad: Low rpm; probably 1k rpm or lower: XSPC or Swiftech
I can run any size rad I want in this case. I am not sure if I want triple or quad

Pump: 3.25 Koolance version but have heard 3.25 pumps are more prone to failure than 655 pumps?
depending on thoughs will determine res/tops, etc.
If I use a res it will be: iandh res with stealth clamps

Bits power fittings: Barbs/no clamp tuning or compression?
Koolance: quick disconnects no spill vl3n
What size fittings? 1/2"
barbs/compression, 90's/rotaries

Tubing recommendations? I will be running distilled/silver coil..do not want die build up/breakdown although it looks cooler

what else do I need, any recommendations greatly appreciated.
as a newb I was told to stick to simple cpu loop first, then work my way up. I would love to cool mobo and gpu's, especially gpu to cut down on noise.

I currently have a Lamptron FC5 fan controller; should fit my needs, but I heard the Koolance controller/expansion card is a great option as well, but at a higher premium.
Anything else I am missing. Direct recommendatons greatly appreciated. Let me know if you need any other info. Thanks

INFRNL

 

[Infrnl]

33 views and nobody has any advice/recommendations?

I guess it is no big rush; will try to research more for the moment

 

[Gillbot]

1/2" is typical IMHO, as far as barbs vs. compressions, that's preference. If you do go compression, be SURE to match the fitting to the tubing in both ID and OD or they may not seal properly.

I prefer 1/2" Fatboys myself.
For tubing, I use 7/16" masterkleer. Some say clamps aren't needed, some use regular zip ties but I prefer good old wormies to be 100% sure.

As for pump, I prefer the D5 or MCP655 though some prefer the MCP355 due to it's smaller size. Looks like you have the rest covered. Keep in mind there are two versions of the MCP655. There is a "-B" version which is non adjustable but usually priced cheaper. It's fixed at what would be setting ~4 on the regular MCP655 which can adjust speed from a level of 1 (low) to 5 (high).

If you want a simple loop at first, why the need for quick disconnects, 90's and etc?

 

[BTRY B 529th FA BN]

I just found something that will interest you. And I just seen this post this morning.

K here it is. Looks like you are in luck with KL. You can get the update Rev 1.1 at no charge!!! That's awesome!

So is that the best block out now? I thought it was the Heat Killer 3.0 Rev 3.0?

Thought Masterkleer was based in OH too, :hmm:

Can you link the quick disconnects? I may want those for my next loop.

 

[Puffnstuff]

HK 3.0 is the best cpu block that I'm aware of and is what I run. I also run a switftech mcp655 (d5) pump set to 5 for max flow and a feser xchanger 360 rad which works well for me. At the moment I'm using the clear 1/2" ID tubing I got from lowes but will probably get something else when I redo the loop.

 

[jtisgeek]

Everything these guys have told you looks good don't be scared about doing everything now a lot less work now then adding loops later. So take your time and leak test good since it's your first time.

I have used many different pumps threw the years no problems out of any so:awe:.

 

[aigomorla]

dont have anything to add besides what gillbot has said.

The key thing is to take things slow.

You have a solid parts list...

 

[Puffnstuff]

Yes unpowered system leak test is critical after you put it all together. Use plain distilled water and have plenty of paper towels handy just in case it starts spewing in your case. Start with your pump on lowest setting and gradually increase the flow. Make sure you tilt it from side to side to get all of the air bubbles out and don't let the pump run dry.

 

[BTRY B 529th FA BN]

With that Masterkleer I/D and those 1/2" i/d barbs you'll never have a leak.

Worm clamps and zip ties are for sissies 😀

 

[Gillbot]

I do my leak testing while the system is POSTing. 🙂

 

[Rubycon]

I do my leak testing while the system is POSTing. 🙂

Sounds about right.
A good plumber who believes in his or her craftsmanship won't worry about leaks. That's with 60 psig standard potable water supply! On a computer water cooling kit there should be no excuse. 😉

 

[SparkyJJO]

The more likely areas for leaks would be where the barbs screw into the blocks and pump and such. Need to make sure that they are tight and the O-ring is compressed, but at the same time don't go all he-man on it and over-tighten.

I built my loop before BP existed, so I have mostly D-tek barbs. They use captured O-rings. BP barbs have captured O rings too. Makes life much easier because you don't have to worry about that ring getting squeezed out of position and causing leaks.

I leak test for about the 10 minutes it takes me to fill and bleed out the worst of the air. Then the rest of it happens while the system is running. No leaks yet!

 

[Infrnl]

1/2" is typical IMHO, as far as barbs vs. compressions, that's preference. If you do go compression, be SURE to match the fitting to the tubing in both ID and OD or they may not seal properly.

I prefer 1/2" Fatboys myself. Aren't these the same as the BP highflow barbs?
or these:
For tubing, I use 7/16" masterkleer. Some say clamps aren't needed, some use regular zip ties but I prefer good old wormies to be 100% sure.

As for pump, I prefer the D5 or MCP655 though some prefer the MCP355 due to it's smaller size. Looks like you have the rest covered. Keep in mind there are two versions of the MCP655. There is a "-B" version which is non adjustable but usually priced cheaper. It's fixed at what would be setting ~4 on the regular MCP655 which can adjust speed from a level of 1 (low) to 5 (high).

If you want a simple loop at first, why the need for quick disconnects, 90's and etc?

Thanks for the advice. as far as quick disconnects, 90's, etc. I change out parts often and thought QD's would be good. 90's, etc I thought would be needed in a build.
I am still lost about pumps and everyone has there own opinion. I think Terry really likes the 3.xx, 3.25 got great reviews from Skinnee. MM on XS says 655 is a PUMP, 3.xx is a toy 🙂
Size of pump does not matter in this case 😀
Koolance PMP-450 Swiftech equivilent; Do I need a variable pump? could eventually get This

I just found something that will interest you. And I just seen this post this morning.

K here it is. Looks like you are in luck with KL. You can get the update Rev 1.1 at no charge!!! That's awesome!

So is that the best block out now? I thought it was the Heat Killer 3.0 Rev 3.0?

Thought Masterkleer was based in OH too, :hmm:

Can you link the quick disconnects? I may want those for my next loop.

I saw the link for CPU-360 rev 1.1; thinking if I should just RMA the block I have for future sake.
Koolance Quick Disconnects VL3N no spill is my choice
Skinnee QD review

HK 3.0 is the best cpu block that I'm aware of and is what I run. I also run a switftech mcp655 (d5) pump set to 5 for max flow and a feser xchanger 360 rad which works well for me. At the moment I'm using the clear 1/2" ID tubing I got from lowes but will probably get something else when I redo the loop.

as far as I am concerned: XT is at top and and CPU-360 & HK up there as well. I also believe the new EK block is looking good as well. Thing I do not like about some blocks is that it is made for specific socket only;not universal
Latest Skinnee Block Review" CPU-360 and new EK block coming soon I believe

dont have anything to add besides what gillbot has said.

The key thing is to take things slow.

You have a solid parts list...

Thanks. What do you think about Koolance PMP-450s pump nozzle/base or PMP-400ver.

Thanks for all other opinions. Any specifics would be appreciated as well. I will update as I put the actual list together

 

[aigomorla]

i honestly prefer the DDC's over the D5.

And i prefer to dual up on pumps incase of failure.

But thats just me.. :T

 

[Gillbot]

The D5 is a pump, the MCP355 is a toy. I agree there, IMHO though.

As for QD's, I change out parts a lot as well but I see no need for them. If you want them, go for it but the more "junk" you add, the less flow you may get.

 

[Infrnl]

i honestly prefer the DDC's over the D5.

And i prefer to dual up on pumps incase of failure.

But thats just me.. :T

I think you have told me before, but what is your reasoning for the DCC's over D5?

The D5 is a pump, the MCP355 is a toy. I agree there, IMHO though.

As for QD's, I change out parts a lot as well but I see no need for them. If you want them, go for it but the more "junk" you add, the less flow you may get.

Do you use variable or standard? I also think your right, being my first loop, I should keep it simple. As I learn I can expand my journeys

Got a lot too think about, and I had a feeling you 2 would have different opinions on pumps; I know that between everyone, both are great and based on preference.
Maybe I will try both and see which one I like better, or try one and if for some reason do not like it, try the other. Will give this more thought before I make final decision.

Now to try and plan this a little better so I can decide on which size rad I want.

What placement usually provides the best perfomance from the radiator? Top mount with fresh air in? Top mount with case air out?
Front Mount with fresh air in, etc?
Top or front mount will help in determination of rad size as front only up to triple rad, top up to quad rad.

Thanks...making slow progress with too many ideas in my head

 

[Gillbot]

I had one of each, fixed and variable. I have no preference either way really as they both work fine.

As for rad location, I can't give a lot of input since my case is atypical: