automotive repair help

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pdunn322

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Oct 2, 2012
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2003 Nissan Maxima. Starts fine, idles fine in park. Step on the gas in park, engine revs normal. Put car in reverse, very little acceleration, even with gas pedal floored. Put car in drive, same thing, little acceleration, even with gas pedal floored. Periodically (not at this moment), I saw brake light and battery lite indicators illuminated for brief periods that would clear within 3-5 minutes - I think thats faulty alternator indication. Could both issues be related ???
 

tboo

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Jun 25, 2000
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2003 Nissan Maxima. Starts fine, idles fine in park. Step on the gas in park, engine revs normal. Put car in reverse, very little acceleration, even with gas pedal floored. Put car in drive, same thing, little acceleration, even with gas pedal floored. Periodically (not at this moment), I saw brake light and battery lite indicators illuminated for brief periods that would clear within 3-5 minutes - I think thats faulty alternator indication. Could both issues be related ???

Could be an alternator. I had a 740il that had a transmission going into limp mode. When that happened my car would barely accelerate. Checking around the BMW forums It was suggested to check my alternator. Turns out my alternator was bad. I replaced the alternator & no more limp mode. I dont know about Nissans but I did get a warning message that the transmission was in limp mode on my BMW.
 

phucheneh

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Jun 30, 2012
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It's not your starting/charging system. If it didn't have enough juice to fire the spark plugs and otherwise operate the engine electronics, it wouldn't start.

Sounds more to me like the engine wants to die. The charging lights are probably coming on because of a poor idle condition that is causing low charging output, or simply because the engine is coming so close to shutting down that the lights are going back to 'self-test' like what happens when you first turn the key.

Kinda like how you can almost kill a car with a manual on take-off, briefly see a CEL and other lights, but then correct your clutch/throttle input and get moving without the engine actually totally shutting down.

I'd say post a video of it so we can see how bad it is. Could be a fairly major problem...or could be as simple as a dirty throttle body.

My bet is more that it's...well, running like piss. You're getting a misfire on one or more cylinders when they're put under load.
 
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phucheneh

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Jun 30, 2012
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mebbe TPS isnt working

Would manifest itself in P/N as well as Drive.

Usually. I have seen a VW with abraided wires going to the throttle 'module' that would only get nuts when under a heavy load.

But Nissans usually have pretty good wiring, and tend not to have issues unless they've been in a collision. Or eaten on by an animal or something.

A physical TPS problem is usually a bad spot in the potentiometer, which doesn't sound like what he's got. He mentions no CEL, though, and I find that hard to believe. Is there a picture of your girlfriend/wife/cat/dog/grocery list stuck over some of your dash lights, OP? :colbert:
 

sontakke

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Aug 8, 2001
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Go to 5th generation Maxima forum and then learn that anytime you get both Brake and Battery light, you need new alternator. Take it from a 2000 Maxima owner.

That does NOT mean that your current problem of having no power is because of that but if your alternator is still original and has close to 150K on it, then it is time for a new one. Try to find a reputable one; generic auto parts store alternator for Maxima need few trial and error runs until you find a working one. If you don't want to go through the hassle, Bosch rebuilds are good and that is what was put in my Maxima.
 
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