ATOT Rock Climbers

[Jzero]

Something I've been wondering about for awhile, but I don't have the audacity to ask any of the regular hardcore climbers at my gym...

What is with all the freaking chalk?! Some of these people look like they are baking bread! They have one of those big chalk bags, and before every single climb they grab a big fat handful and then send a cloud of chalk up into the air, which gets all over everything and sends me into a sneezing fit.

And then they have trouble on whatever their problem they're working on and they grab the brush...to brush off all the chalk on the troublesome hold, which probably came from them!

I've got one of those Bison Balls. When I start, I rub a thin layer on my hands. After my first climb, it's gone. I reapply the chalk, and that second application seems to stay on my hands for the rest of the session.

Is there any added benefit to using massive amounts of chalk that I am not familiar with?

 

[oog]

nope. hasn't been necessary for me.

 

[bleeb]

Stop sweat. Sweat is the enemy when rock climbing... makes you slip and lose your grip.

 

[eigen]

Is also very psychological.Its just part of what you do when you are trying to focus.

I have climbed V11..so yeah..Its just part of what alot of people do.Like the yell at the end of the football huddle or whatever.

Also look at olympic weightlifter and gymnast they dont go lite on the stuff.

 

[DivideBYZero]

Grip.

 

[Cheetah8799]

hehe. Jzero, you must be climbing with some boulderers. I started with folks like that, use lots of chalk. I tend to do it, but not with the big bouldering bag, just the small one on my harness. I keep it full with loose chalk though, I hate those chalk balls. I have a super old one that I refill sometimes, but most of my chalk is loose. (don't tell the gym that...)

I don't know how good of a climber you are, but for the super picky elite there are times when brushing the hold will really help your grip just enough to get you through the problem. Especially on big slopers. Cripers are easier to climb without ever brushing.


Only solution I have for you is to climb outdoors more.


edit: wanted to also comment that some outdoor crags have no-chalk rules. Such as the north shore of Lake Superior up here in Minnesota. Gets pretty hairy with fog coming off the lake and the rock is all wet...

 

[Ausm]

Makes your hands slippery )


Ausm

 

[Jzero]

Originally posted by: Cheetah8799
Jzero, you must be climbing with some boulderers.

Good guess I spend most of my time bouldering. I find my technique and strength developing a lot faster since you can attack more problems and it's easier to make multiple attacks, and you don't have to spend time and energy on belaying

I don't know how good of a climber you are, but for the super picky elite there are times when brushing the hold will really help your grip just enough to get you through the problem.

I know I'm not good enough that brushing holds will make much difference when I get stuck on a problem, but it seems counterproductive to me to brush the chalk off of a troublesome hold....and then climb up there with tons of chalk caked on your hand.

Only solution I have for you is to climb outdoors more.

Perhaps I'll have more time in the fall, but probably not
But there's not really a solution needed...I was just wondering what the deal is.

 

[Cheetah8799]

They aren't just brushing off chalk. There is excess chalk, sweat, grease, dust, and all kinds of junk that builds up. Some guys take it too far though. I'm no elite climber, but I've had occasions where there is an obvious difference in grip quality after brushing the hold. Especially if it means staying on, or falling. I'd rather stay on and complete the problem.

 

[Jzero]

Originally posted by: Cheetah8799
They aren't just brushing off chalk. There is excess chalk, sweat, grease, dust, and all kinds of junk that builds up. Some guys take it too far though. I'm no elite climber, but I've had occasions where there is an obvious difference in grip quality after brushing the hold. Especially if it means staying on, or falling. I'd rather stay on and complete the problem.

Fair enough. The mass quantities of chalk needs to stop, though.

Last week we decided to toprope after bouldering exclusively for the past 3-4 months. This should have been apparent to both me and my partner, but we ignored it for some reason: Bouldering is great for technique, but does not help much with stamina.

It's time to alternate

 

[GrantMeThePower]

Yea, as others have said it helps with the sweat factor. As for brushing, its really just important on slopers.

The reason you see people use so much chalk is that they've been climbing for a while and have long since stopped thinking about how much chalk they're using. Putting your hands in the chalk bag before attempting a problem is part of the ritual and they end up rubbing and clapping a bunch off anyway.