ATOT Carpenters - Door help needed

[rsutoratosu]

I just had foot surgery so wont be doing this for a week or two.

Replaced a door in the house, the frame is steel or metal and replacement door is very tight. While closing, it seems to be rubbing against the frame by the hinge. I don't have any gaps meaning the door fit well but maybe too well ?

Ill try to send up some pics, what are my options ? shave the door ?

 

[herm0016]

is this a welded one piece frame or a screw together? how is it attached to the house?

and... why are you putting a steel frame in a house?

 

[Mr.IncrediblyBored]

Is the frame really steel or just a plate over wood 2x4's? I had a similar issue with an exterior door. The wood frame warped over the years making the door hard to close.

I installed a few 3" screws into the frame where the door rubbed. The screws pull the frame away from the door. Drill pilot holes first, install the screws nice and tight, then a bit of wood putty to cover the heads. Obviously this won't work if the frame is steal.

 

[rsutoratosu]

Its a condo, all existing, I only replaced the door because the kids were messing around and took a bat to the existing hallow door.

It seems like some sort of metal/steel frame.

 

[rsutoratosu]

Here's some pic, it closes up to that angle and I would have to push it hard to get it fully close

not a lot of gaps at the hinge side.. maybe I need new hinges ?

 

[Humpy]

is this a welded one piece frame or a screw together? how is it attached to the house?

and... why are you putting a steel frame in a house?

Steel doors and frames (exterior) should be standard practice in residential construction.

 

[jaha2000]

Couple of questions
1. You sure the frame is square?
2. Looks like an inside door?
3. What type of woodworking tools you have access to?

Does it rub on the side or does it phsically not fit because of the depth, and it stops on the lip?
I am assuming the second. Is the new door thicker than the old one?

 

[Humpy]

OP, Trim the door to fit, reset the hinges to allow a little room at the stop (if it's hitting there), repaint.

Frame material isn't really relevant here.

 

[herm0016]

Steel doors and frames (exterior) should be standard practice in residential construction.

No reason for this most places, never has been a standard. As long as wood frames are properly installed and painted they will last for decades.

I prefer fiberglass doors to steel for exterior but could be convinced on a really nice looking wood door.


op: did you install the door with the bevel on the proper side?

 

[Humpy]

No reason for this most places, never has been a standard. As long as wood frames are properly installed and painted they will last for decades.

I prefer fiberglass doors to steel for exterior but could be convinced on a really nice looking wood door.


op: did you install the door with the bevel on the proper side?

It is/has been standard anywhere stricter fire codes are in place.

If the goal of a door is to provide passage that can be secured then a steel frame makes the most sense to me when considering security/dollar.

Many of the custom house builds I was involved in would use steel doors and frames for the service doors and a solid wood door in a steel frame for the main entries.

I only brought it up because when the OP mentioned steel I automatically assumed exterior, turns out it's just a closet or something so it's moot.

Good point on the strike side bevel.

 

[Greenman]

Steel doors and frames (exterior) should be standard practice in residential construction.

Steel frames conduct heat, a lot of it. They are definitely stronger, but not energy efficient.

It looks like it's binding on the integral trim, hard to tell from the pics.

 

[Humpy]

Steel frames conduct heat, a lot of it. They are definitely stronger, but not energy efficient.

It looks like it's binding on the integral trim, hard to tell from the pics.

Maybe they shouldn't be standard, but a standard option.

Plenty of choices for thermal break steel frames. Our door supplier was making a pretty interesting hybrid split frame where the interior side was a stock welded steel frame, providing strong attachment points for standard commercial hardware, and the exterior was wood. Another option was laminating 1/8" steel sheet to the back of their standard wood jambs, which allowed the use of any hardware. Since most of our doors were custom anyway, due to architectural style and wall thickness, the additional cost was minimal and customers interested in security were happy.

There are still trade offs of course, but most who prioritized security a little higher on their list of wants/needs and where buying the higher end locks would take the option when offered.

 

[Muse]

I just had foot surgery so wont be doing this for a week or two.

If your foot surgery was like mine (2 neuromas in the same foot) you aren't apt to be doing this real soon. I was scooting around the house in a mini-wheel chair for a spell because the pain standing up was real bad after just a few seconds. Getting the foot near heart level alleviated the pain. I only used crutches when I needed to, but very briefly.

 

[rsutoratosu]

steel/metal frame is existing, I only order a door, not door in frame to dropped in. Would have probably been really hard to do that, ripping it out

It is an inside bathroom door. not outside door. Is the frame square ? probably not, these co-op units were built in the 40s, probably all bent out of shape. old door didn't have the issue.. just a hole in it.

so what the heck is a bevel.. ? I just give home depot the specs, in swing , right hand.. I assume they put everything in the right place.. I just screw in the hinge and hope for the best ..

 

[herm0016]

Try swinging a large square box into a box that fits tightly, you will find that a trapezoid will swing in better. The strike side on the door is beveled so that the inside face is about 3/16 shorter than the outside face of the door. The angle being on the strike (knob) side so that it will swing into the opening.