Athlon XP 1700+ in Iwill KK266 ?

[coderjay]

I have an old Iwill KK266 mobo which has been working pretty well. This week the CPU died and Im planning to upgrade to an Athlon XP 1700+ or so. Does anybody know if the CPU will work in this mobo? I heard that the XP's need a lot less voltage than the earlier CPU's. So Im afraid of frying the new CPU.

 

[ScrapSilicon]

first..which board revision you have ..reg or + ..? the + revisions have a better chance of doing so but its still a ymmv ..second..flash to the latest BIOS for your revision..kk266 is 10222001 ..+ is 02272002 found on iwillusa Welcome to Anandtech forums !

 

[coderjay]

I have the regular version. Thanks for the info.

 

[ScrapSilicon]

Originally posted by: coderjay
I have the regular version. Thanks for the info.

what is your current(dead) proc and general build ..?

 

[coderjay]

General config: XP 1600+ (dead) ran great for 4 months. IBM 40G HD, 256 M RAM, ATI Radeon 8500, 350W PSU (Dont remember the manuf.).

 

[ScrapSilicon]

Originally posted by: coderjay
General config: XP 1600+ (dead) ran great for 4 months. IBM 40G HD, 256 M RAM, ATI Radeon 8500, 350W PSU (Dont remember the manuf.).

dead @ 4 months..did you overclock the thing into oblivion..? ..well my reg iwill kk266s w/10222001 BIOS are still going ..1 running a 1gig TBird C and the other a 1.2 Athlon MP...did the 1600 have a warranty perchance..?

 

[coderjay]

Nope. no overclocking at all. It was running fine till 2 days ago when the monitor suddenly went blank then box wouldnt POST. Tried replacing all components one by one and the box worked when I put in a 1.2G Thunderbird. Unfortunately its out of warranty since I got the OEM part from Newegg. (only 1 month warranty).

 

[McCarthy]

Sorry to say, coderjay, but the KK266 doesn't have T-bred support. Yes, you can run a 1700+, but it MUST be a Palimino core.

So if you wish to get a 1700+ (a fine choice, I have a 1600+ in my KK266-R and it's been working flawlessly since the 1600+'s came out) that will do well, but do your homework and make sure you're getting a Palimino core XP, not a Thoroughbred one.

Newegg has both, bummer that the older core is $2 more than the new one, but ah well, worth the extra two bucks for it to work. Should be able to do any speed of Palimino core.

Now as far as your 1600+ dying in four months, that's odd. What were your temps like, did you have it set to proper voltage (1.75 I believe for that, what mine's at anyway) What heatsink do you have, did it fall off? Odd for a chip to be working and then *zap* quit and be dead unless it was A) run way too hot B) overvolted to death C) immediate loss of cooling D) bad chip, it happens. Could be D), but when you get your new chip make sure to check the temp/voltage. Suppose I should ask you what heatsink paste you used to, or if your sink had a thermal pad if you remembered to peel the sticker, only use pad once, that sort of thing, but mostly just advice 'unless you're sure you did everything right and are sure it was pure bad luck double check everything when you put your new cpu in'

I'm wondering if maybe your voltages got too low though. KK266 doesn't have an ideal power connector placement and has a history of showing low 5v rail, if you were boarderline and your power supply lost a bit of voltage for whatever reason that would explain why it quit and won't fire back up. Unless you've verified it is the CPU of course.

--Mc

 

[McCarthy]

Don't mean to sound harsh or say you did something wrong, btw. Just trying to imagine a chip dying in four months. Usually they don't work at all or work fine for years, months without an event to cause death is odd. Then again so would be the power supply theory now that I think about it, a 1.2 draws just as much if not more than a 1600+. Hmm. Most curious.

 

[coderjay]

Thank you, McCarthy. I was kind of shocked too when the machine wouldnt boot. Checked all parts one by one and when I switched the CPU to a 1.2G Thunderbird, everything started back up again. For the first couple of weeks I got the CPU, the temps were in the 40 - 42C range without much load. I scraped off the pad that the cooler came with and used Arctic silver. Wonder if I should have put more paste?? The fan/heatsink is a Thermaltake (dont remember the exact specs). When I took out the CPU, the fan was firmly in place. I'll have to check on the power supply again to see if its giving out the right voltage. Anyone know any easy way to do a check?

 

[McCarthy]

Hmm, probably just got a dud then. If your temps were in the 40's range (even with external sensor for those who like to jump in and hijack the topic over internal/external) on a KK266 board they were fine.

Way I'm reading it you scraped the pad to start with and used Artic Silver from the start of this CPU. If so nothing you did, if temps are 40-42 on Day 1 with AS they'll be 40-42 on day 120, even lower if the 'work in' theories of AS are to be believed. Thin film is all you want with it. Heck, little admission...put mine back together once after having the machine apart for some reason, took it apart for another and found only then that one of my dog's hairs had gotten between the core and sink. Machine had been stable and temps fine the whole time. Getting that last 1 or 2 degrees on an overclock is an art, getting a machine stable at stock speeds is a lot easier than people make it out to be.

As far as checking your voltages, hit DELETE while the machine is booting up, go to the PC Health option and look there. On a KK266 4.6v isn't abnormal, 5v is ideal, but mine worked until it got to 4.18v with my failing Enermax. If you're say 4.7 to 5.0 with that 1.2ghz in there then my power supply thought is out the window.

--Mc

 

[coderjay]

The voltage shown in bios is 4.92V. I think I'll get the boxed version of a 1700+ next time. Newegg seems to have only the OEM version. Know of any place selling the boxed Palomino version? Thanks for all the help.