Question ASUS MOBO Fresh build procedure question to avoid Armory Crate install?

[Fakum]

I am building a new rig, primarily for gaming in (DCS) Digital Combat Flight Simulator. I have spent a lot of time doing research and the only part I have purchased so far is the CPU. I have convinced myself after a lot of research that I was going with the ASUS ROG Strix B650E-F Gaming MOBO (MSI MAG B650 Tomahawk is still an alternative as I need a MOBO with the 5 port Audio Suite on the rear I/O). I am very hung up on any ASUS MOBO because of all this negative reading I have been doing about the “Armory Crate” Bloatware. I am understanding that I can disable it in the BIOS on my 1st powerup, then I understand I would have to have all of the MOBO drivers ready on a flash drive and install the drivers that way in order to keep that bloatware off my rig. I am NOT doing any lights, but will need some fan/pump control for the CPU AIO cooler. Is there a procedure I can follow to do this right? Thanks for any pointers.

My current parts list:

CPU: AMD 7800X3D

MOBO: ASUS ROG Strix B650E-F Gaming

RAM: G.Skill Trident Z5 NEO Series 64GB (2 x 32GB) DDR5 6000 CL30-40-40-96

SSD M.2: SK hynix Platinum P41 2TB PCIe NVMe Gen4 M.2

GPU: RMSI Gaming GeForce RTX 4090 SUPRIM Liquid X 24G

POWER SUPPLY: FSP Hydro PTM PRO 1200W ATX 3.0 PCI-E GEN-5 80 Plus Platinum

TOWER: Corsair 5000D AIRFLOW

CPU AIO COOLER: ARCTIC Liquid Freezer II 280

WINDOWS 10 or 11 PRO 64BIT

 

[Muadib]

I have a ROG Crosshair X670E Hero, and turned off Armory Crate in the Bios. I don't understand the hate for Armory Crate. If you want your LEDs on the board to work, then Armory Crate is what you need. If like me you could care less about lighting, then turn Armory Crate off in the Bios, reboot, and then uninstall it in Windows. It's not that hard...

 

[Fakum]

LOL, I cant unread all of the horror stories I have read over the week about that software, but im not here to discuss that in particular, my question above asks what the proper (step by step)procedure is IF I dont install that software to get the correct drivers installed. I already stated I know I can disable it in the bios.

 

[OlyAR15]

You can download the individual drivers from the asus site.

 

[WelshBloke]

All the fans and AIO pumps can be controlled via the BIOS.
Asus has pretty solid controls for those.
The lights can be turned off in the Bios but I think that bios control is either off or on, no other controls for them.

As for drivers, just download the ones that windows doesn't automatically download for you from the Asus support webpage for your motherboard.

You don't need any asus software and I'd highly recommend that you don't install any!
I find their hardware pretty solid but their software is appalling and some of it is very hard to totally uninstall.

 

[Fakum]

@WelshBloke Thanks for the response. I had planned on downloading the drivers to a thumbdrive as stated initially. The question is basically, what would be the proper installation procedure? For example, on 1st boot, outside of disabling Armor Crate in the BIOS, should there be any specific BIOS settings that should be set before booting up to install Windows from a thumb drive (like a default setting of something?)? Then, should I just leave the network disconnected to install Windows so it doesnt try and upload/install any drivers from the web? And once windows is installed, what specific order should the drivers I downloaded from the MOBO website be installed (does it even matter?). Thanks,

 

[mikeymikec]

I've used a fair few Asus boards with the Armoury Crate option. Ever since I first encountered it, I've disabled it in the BIOS. No extra drivers/software needed, no problems, everything works.

If you're installing Win11 it'll try to insist on having a network connection during install. This thread describes workarounds:

Question - Windows 11 installation without Microsoft account

Is there a working method as of today (Nov 12, 2022)? I have tried disconnecting from the Internet during the setup but I can't seem to move past the account setup screen.

forums.anandtech.com

With Win10/11 I tend to let Windows auto-install stuff and then I'll generally use Device Manager to try to get it to install any pertinent drivers from the hardware manufacturer's website(s) and if it says the currently installed driver is the latest one, I accept that and check the remaining drivers in the same way.

 

[WelshBloke]

@WelshBloke Thanks for the response. I had planned on downloading the drivers to a thumbdrive as stated initially. The question is basically, what would be the proper installation procedure? For example, on 1st boot, outside of disabling Armor Crate in the BIOS, should there be any specific BIOS settings that should be set before booting up to install Windows from a thumb drive (like a default setting of something?)? Then, should I just leave the network disconnected to install Windows so it doesnt try and upload/install any drivers from the web? And once windows is installed, what specific order should the drivers I downloaded from the MOBO website be installed (does it even matter?). Thanks,

I usually let windows do its thing for drivers except for video card drivers.
I think the main decisions are do you need secure boot and the setting in Windows to allow it to download software relevant to your hardware (that one can let windows download manufacturer bloatware without any input from you, it's very annoying).

 

[bba-tcg]

I've used a fair few Asus boards with the Armoury Crate option. Ever since I first encountered it, I've disabled it in the BIOS. No extra drivers/software needed, no problems, everything works.

If you're installing Win11 it'll try to insist on having a network connection during install. This thread describes workarounds:

Question - Windows 11 installation without Microsoft account

Is there a working method as of today (Nov 12, 2022)? I have tried disconnecting from the Internet during the setup but I can't seem to move past the account setup screen.

forums.anandtech.com

With Win10/11 I tend to let Windows auto-install stuff and then I'll generally use Device Manager to try to get it to install any pertinent drivers from the hardware manufacturer's website(s) and if it says the currently installed driver is the latest one, I accept that and check the remaining drivers in the same way.

The very easiest way is to make sure you're not connected to the internet and when you get to that screen, press shift-f10 to get a command prompt and type "oobe\bypassnro". It'll reboot and there'll be a link for "I don't have internet" when it gets back to that screen. I use this all the time if someone want a Windows 11 install.

 

[WelshBloke]

The very easiest way is to make sure you're not connected to the internet and when you get to that screen, press shift-f10 to get a command prompt and type "oobe\bypassnro". It'll reboot and there'll be a link for "I don't have internet" when it gets back to that screen. I use this all the time if someone want a Windows 11 install.

It's ridiculous that you have to jump through obscure hoops like that to use something that's pretty expensive!

 

[Caveman]

THIS IS THE PERFECT THREAD! I logged in tonight to explore the same exact questions. Thanks to all who are advising!

Fakum, you must be my long lost identical twin. I'm building almost the exact same rig this weekend for DCS, IL-2 and FS2020 and had the exact same sort of questions about the Asus board and Win 11. Even the way you wrote the questions seemed like the exact way I would have pursued. Good luck! I'm really hoping to have my rig up/running by Sunday night.

 

[bba-tcg]

It's ridiculous that you have to jump through obscure hoops like that to use something that's pretty expensive!

True. But it's an easy hoop.

 

[Fakum]

THIS IS THE PERFECT THREAD! I logged in tonight to explore the same exact questions. Thanks to all who are advising!

Fakum, you must be my long lost identical twin. I'm building almost the exact same rig this weekend for DCS, IL-2 and FS2020 and had the exact same sort of questions about the Asus board and Win 11. Even the way you wrote the questions seemed like the exact way I would have pursued. Good luck! I'm really hoping to have my rig up/running by Sunday night.

@Caveman LOL,,, good for you! Fair winds with the build! I just ordered all my parts yesterday. I also decided to just stick with Windows 10 Pro. If you got the same motherboard, maybe you can answer a question? I posted this over at the ASUS Forums, but have NOT received a response:

The manual states that the default position of this "CPU Over Voltage Jumper" is in positions 1&2 (Disabled) . If you place the jumper in position 2&3 (Enabled) it will set a higher CPU voltage for Overclocking? Now does that mean if you boot up in the Enabled position that it automatically applies a higher voltage to the CPU or does that mean that it ALLOWS you to apply a higher voltage to the CPU via BIOS Configuring?

My parts list:

CPU: AMD 7800X3D

MOBO: ASUS ROG Strix B650E-F Gaming

RAM: G.Skill Trident Z5 NEO Series 64GB (2 x 32GB) DDR5 6000 CL30-40-40-96

SSD: M.2: SK hynix Platinum P41 2TB PCIe NVMe Gen4 M.2

GPU: MSI Gaming GeForce RTX 4090 SUPRIM Liquid X 24G

POWER SUPPLY: FSP Hydro PTM PRO 1200W ATX 3.0 PCI-E GEN-5 80 Plus Platinum

TOWER: Corsair 5000D AIRFLOW

CPU AIO COOLER: ARCTIC Liquid Freezer II 280

WINDOWS 10 Pro

 

[igor_kavinski]

The manual states that the default position of this "CPU Over Voltage Jumper" is in positions 1&2 (Disabled) .

Leave it at default. If you enable it, there's a chance that voltage may be applied beyond the safe limit. This option is used by LN2 overclockers.

 

[Caveman]

It turns out I have the E-E mobo. Very similar but some differences. Looks like good advice from Igor on the OC jumper. It's been about 8 years since my last build so kinda splurging... Have a Reverb G2 and hope to pick up a Varjo Aero on sale on next gen and/or a 42" C2 for pancake.

CPU: AMD 7800X3D SAME

MOBO: ASUS ROG Strix B650E-E Gaming SAME except E

RAM: G.Skill Trident Z5 NEO Series 64GB (2 x 32GB) DDR5 6000 CL30-40-40-96 SAME

SSD: M.2: SK hynix Platinum P41 2TB PCIe NVMe Gen4 M.2 SAME originally, and hated to sacrifice some performance but spooked it was too small so went with 4TB SN850X...

GPU: MSI Gaming GeForce RTX 4090 SUPRIM Liquid X 24G 4090 FE, but the SUPRIM was the only other 4090 I'd considered.

POWER SUPPLY: FSP Hydro PTM PRO 1200W ATX 3.0 PCI-E GEN-5 80 Plus Platinum EVGA 1300 G2

TOWER: Corsair 5000D AIRFLOW Lion Li O11 Dynamic EVO

CPU AIO COOLER: ARCTIC Liquid Freezer II 280 ARCTIC Liquid Freezer II 360

WINDOWS 10 Pro Still trying to decide on OS... Looking for reasons to go with Win 11 and just can't seem to find any...

 

[tamz_msc]

I would press the brake on a Ryzen 7000X3D build right now unless issues like this are resolved:

Users Report Ryzen 7000X3D Chips Burning Out

Likely a motherboard BIOS issue.

www.tomshardware.com

 

[Fakum]

@igor_kavinski Thank you for the feedback, much appreciated!
@Caveman "Still trying to decide on OS... Looking for reasons to go with Win 11 and just can't seem to find any..." That has been my findings for the most part as well except for a few things I found that steered me away from Win 11 for now. Quoting from something I read elsewhere, "Stick with what is tried and true".

 

[igor_kavinski]

Yeah, avoid Windows 11. Just had a frustrating half an hour with a Windows 11 laptop. Internet works but Outlook.com and Microsoft.com are not accessible on it. They are both working fine on my Windows 8.1 laptop, connected to the same WiFi. Way to go, Microsoft.

 

[mikeymikec]

@igor_kavinski Thank you for the feedback, much appreciated!
@Caveman "Still trying to decide on OS... Looking for reasons to go with Win 11 and just can't seem to find any..." That has been my findings for the most part as well except for a few things I found that steered me away from Win 11 for now. Quoting from something I read elsewhere, "Stick with what is tried and true".

Win10 is supported with security updates until October 2025. Win11 should be supported until 2031 (according to past MS behaviour/policy).

 

[Fakum]

That was a serious consideration for me. Install Win 11 now as a fresh install and deal with its infancy issue or stay with Win 10 for 2 more years while Win 11 matures more. The only thing i personally dont like about waiting to install Win 11 in 2 years is that i would rather install Win 11 fresh then to install over Win 10 and deal with that potential muck. I still think i will be installing Win 10 and do a fresh Win 11 in about 2 years,,,

 

[mikeymikec]

That was a serious consideration for me. Install Win 11 now as a fresh install and deal with its infancy issue or stay with Win 10 for 2 more years while Win 11 matures more. The only thing i personally dont like about waiting to install Win 11 in 2 years is that i would rather install Win 11 fresh then to install over Win 10 and deal with that potential muck. I still think i will be installing Win 10 and do a fresh Win 11 in about 2 years,,,

One thing I just noticed is you're thinking of going with the Pro version of Windows. Unless you know specifically why you're opting for that version, in my opinion don't waste your money.

Apart from gaming, what else do you intend to use this computer for? Do you tend to customise the Windows user interface much? Win11 by default allows less customisation for example with the taskbar, so if I ever wanted to use it as my primary OS then I'd have to install third party software to regain the functionality that Win10 and its predecessors had.

 

[Fakum]

Thanks for the response. I already have license keys for Windows 10 and 11, so no costs involved. I use the PC for Microsoft applications such as Word, Excel, Outlook etc as I work from home often, but the build focus is on DCS performance primarily. I am now back on the fence with either Win 10 or 11? I grabbed an old SSD I had lying around and installed Win 11 Pro on it and I am experimenting with it. So far, I have no opposition. I am still installing stuff like DCS and other stuff like TeamSpeak etc, but haven't yet really fired it all up.