• We’re currently investigating an issue related to the forum theme and styling that is impacting page layout and visual formatting. The problem has been identified, and we are actively working on a resolution. There is no impact to user data or functionality, this is strictly a front-end display issue. We’ll post an update once the fix has been deployed. Thanks for your patience while we get this sorted.

Arrrgh, Help Fix My Truck! Update: It Seems To Be Working

O

Ornery

Lifer
Update 20 posts down...


Damn thing! :|

I've got to drive 45 minutes east of here this evening to rendezvous with my dad for a "retreat" he talked me into going to. From there, he's driving about an hour into PA. I don't want to make him drive out here to pick me up. I don't want my wife to have to drive all the way there, then back, either. They've still got my car in the body shop till next week.

A few years ago, the 1988 Ford E-150 was taken to the shop because it wouldn't start. It turned over fine, but wouldn't start. When they finished troubleshooting it, they said it was a relay, located near the battery. About a month ago, it had the same problem. Towed it to the shop, where they diagnosed the relay again, and put a new one in. The very next day it wouldn't start again. I called the shop and asked if I should wiggle the wires near the relays or what? He said, to try it, and if that didn't work, call back. Well, I pulled the relays out from their cover and it started. I've been remote starting it every Monday, just to keep it lubed and charged. I started it Wednesday morning, just to make sure it was still working, which it was. Of course I tried it this morning and it won't start. Cranks very well, but won't ignite. I jiggled all the wires while it was cranking, but still no go. I smelled gasoline too, so I think it's in the ignition side. I'm going to put a timing light on while I crank it, to see if there is spark... Yep, there is spark, but I don't smell gas.

Anything else I can check?
 
when was the last time the fuel filter was changed? Maybe the fule pump is going out, can you hear it start pumping when you turn the key partially. I am no mechanic but if you are not smelling gas seems to me that it would have to be a flow problem.
 
I can't really hear anything when it's cranking. It's a pretty noisy contraption. It's a Fuel Injected 5.0Liter. Should I be able to smell gasoline from the tailpipe?

Edit: It's been years, but not many miles since the fuel filter was changed. No idea about the fuel pump. Would that be mechanical or electric?
 
What condition are the spark plugs and wires?
I mean, you think gas is gettting through, since you smell it, right?
 
Plugs and wires were replaced about 5 years ago and only about 20K has been put on since then.

I'm going through my POS Haynes manual for a clue. This is the one vehicle I didn't buy a Helm's set for, and man I am sorry about that! What a useless POS this manual is. Under troubleshooting it keeps referring to normally aspirated carburator problems. This friggen book covers Ford vans from 1969-1991... what a joke!
 
Originally posted by: Ornery
I can't really hear anything when it's cranking. It's a pretty noisy contraption. It's a Fuel Injected 5.0Liter. Should I be able to smell gasoline from the tailpipe?

Edit: It's been years, but not many miles since the fuel filter was changed. No idea about the fuel pump. Would that be mechanical or electric?
Click to expand...

don't crank the motor, just turn the key on and you should hear the fuel pump "humm" for a couple seconds.
 
OK, I'll go do that...

I just got back from spraying starting fluid right into the carb while it was cranking. Not one single cylinder fired. The inductive timing light shows that it is sparking. Off to check the fuel pump...

Edit: I think I hear the pump whirrrrr. After I hear a relay or two click, then I hear it for about 2 seconds, then it stops. I tried my wife's 4.6L engine for comparison, and it does the same thing.
 
I haven't tried to start this stupid thing since the 28th. Today I tried the remote start and it fired right up! The temperature is 45 degrees. The temperature when it wouldn't start was sub freezing. If this is temperature related, what component would be causing the trouble?

I'm going to drive it over to the garage that worked on it before. At least I don't have to pay for a tow. He'll just leave it sit till it won't start again, then troubleshoot it from there. Since he never really fixed it the first two or three times he had it, I don't expect much of a bill. Well, he didn't really fix it before, right? More of a band-aid or got lucky IMO.
 
You may have drove it through some water and it got into the starter. And then it may have froze up.

Happened to me several years ago.
 
Well, it could be indirectly related to the temperature, like increased condensation, moisture, in different weather conditions might cause a connection or wiring problem.

Just a thought since at least once fooling with the relay connections seems to have cured the problem.
 
Isn't this a pisser? I sure hope he can figure it out. Intermit ant problems are the pits. I turn all my hairy problems over to a garage. With these newer cars, he's gonna see more and more work from me. I don't have a clue what to do with this newfangled crap!
 
Originally posted by: Ornery
Isn't this a pisser? I sure hope he can figure it out. Intermit ant problems are the pits. I turn all my hairy problems over to a garage. With these newer cars, he's gonna see more and more work from me. I don't have a clue what to do with this newfangled crap!
Click to expand...

Tell me about it....

The engine on my scooter has been giving me problems that challenge and defy logic, and my Internal Combustion Engine troubleshooting skills...

Whats worse, one day it will work fine.. the next day it won't really work at all. It boggles the mind.
 
Originally posted by: Ornery
I haven't tried to start this stupid thing since the 28th. Today I tried the remote start and it fired right up! The temperature is 45 degrees. The temperature when it wouldn't start was sub freezing. If this is temperature related, what component would be causing the trouble?

I'm going to drive it over to the garage that worked on it before. At least I don't have to pay for a tow. He'll just leave it sit till it won't start again, then troubleshoot it from there. Since he never really fixed it the first two or three times he had it, I don't expect much of a bill. Well, he didn't really fix it before, right? More of a band-aid or got lucky IMO.
Click to expand...

sounds more like condensation in the gas line than anything else - When it was cold the condensation froze and now that its warmed up it was able to thaw/evaporate. I would consider throwing some gas line anti-freeze in and see if that will take care of the problem.
 
What about the ignition module? Always been a trouble spot in later Fords. Does the truck have a tachometer? A quick check: If the module is working, the tach needle will jump a little when you turn the key 'on'. If it's dead, the needle won't jump. The module may work intermittently, giving you a real headache.


JC
 
Just thought I'd update anyone who wonders what the problem was. I've been informed that it was the "coolant sensor", and that all fuel injected vehicles have them. Mine was so far out of calibration when it was cold that it didn't allow the right amount of fuel to the carb. Damage was $129.00... damn I'm broke!
 
Originally posted by: Ornery
Just thought I'd update anyone who wonders what the problem was. I've been informed that it was the "coolant sensor", and that all fuel injected vehicles have them. Mine was so far out of calibration when it was cold that it didn't allow the right amount of fuel to the carb. Damage was $129.00... damn I'm broke!
Click to expand...
Sounds like a cheap repair ... by today's standards.
 
Except for the fact that he's already been paid to repair this same problem three times before!

I talked to a fellow who is a mechanic/manager at a local Chevy dealer. He said a lot of people stay away from dealers because they're so expensive, but in the end, it could be cheaper to go to the dealer and have it fixed right in the first place. They see these same vehicles over and over, and become familiar with particular problems that crop up all the time. My mechanic may see a 1988 E-150 once every couple years.

This vehicle is on its last legs. I'm only keeping it because I can't get anything for it if I sell it. It can still haul junk and has good rubber all around. Hell, it even has a TV/VCR/Game Console inside! I haven't decided whether I'll be checking into a dealer next time it needs troubleshooting, though. I'll have to give that more thought...
 
Son of a bitch! The POS won't start this morning. Temperature is 29 degrees. Now, how do I handle this situation with my mechanic? IMO, I'm due some money back if nothing else! :|
 
Turn the key 'on', and listen for the fuel pump to kick on for a few seconds. If you have to, pull the gas cap and listen at the fuel filler pipe. If you hear it kick on and off, you know you have fuel pressure. Then check again for spark, a bad ignition module (which those era Fords are famous for) can cause maddening intermittent problems.


JC
 
Ignition module, eh? I thought that myself, but I couldn't find an "Ignition Module" under the hood. What I did find was a Control Module, which is mounted on the distributor. I put a hair dryer on it for a few minutes. She started right up!

I just got back from dropping the van at the garage. I left a note explaining what I thought the problem was, and how I determined that. I told him I wanted the Control Module replaced, and to call me with an estimate before he starts. What would you tell him when he calls? I'm going to tell him that I don't think I should have to pay to have it installed... for the labor anyway. How's that sound?
 
Hah! I'm out well over $200.00 for his "Diagnostic/Troubleshooting" labor. All of which netted NOTHING! For all that he ended up installing a $15.00 relay and $15.00 coolant temperature sensor. This doesn't include the cost for the same repair from several years ago. I'll be shopping for a new mechanic if he doesn't try and set things right with this. I'm fully capable of installing that damn module myself. This is more or less a test of his willingness to do right by me, now.

If he doesn't come through, we'll likely be parting on bad terms, and I may try to recover some of my money in small claims court? Sound fair?
 
That module on the side of the distributor is a TFI module, and a known cause of problems like yours.
Some people carry an extra one in the vehicle, just because they do go bad often. Easy to replace it yourself, but be sure and use dialectric grease/heatsink compound between the distributor and the module (those things get hot).
I have no idea as to whether or not you will prevail, in small claims court.
 
Originally posted by: Ornery
Hah! I'm out well over $200.00 for his "Diagnostic/Troubleshooting" labor. All of which netted NOTHING! For all that he ended up installing a $15.00 relay and $15.00 coolant temperature sensor. This doesn't include the cost for the same repair from several years ago. I'll be shopping for a new mechanic if he doesn't try and set things right with this. I'm fully capable of installing that damn module myself. This is more or less a test of his willingness to do right by me, now.

If he doesn't come through, we'll likely be parting on bad terms, and I may try to recover some of my money in small claims court? Sound fair?
Click to expand...

I totally agree with you BUT the repair was a few years ago. Diagnostics typically are gonna run you 40-100 bucks per shot.

I would ask the mechanic to do right and explain the situation. If he said Sorry bout your luck find another one. I think you lose in Small claims court just due to the time between the repairs.
 
He had the thing in January, then in February, not to mention a few years ago. He never did find the problem, I DID! The January and February troubleshooting cost me well over $200.00 and only $30.00 worth of arguably unneeded parts were installed.

This repair better be on the house, or I'll be pissed, whether it ends up in court or not. Personally, I don't see how a judge could let him slide on this either. I gave him second and third chances to find the problem. All he did was charge me more, and accomplished nothing.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

TRENDING THREADS

Back
Top