Are Accel plug wires any good?.....YACT:~)

[Pilsnerpete]

I suppose Magnecor wires are the best, but how are ACCEL's? I put a Super Stock coil in my truck yesterday and I was kinda surprised at how smooth it runs now. Will Accels with a copper core be better than Belden w/carbon core? While I'm thinking about it, should I increase the plug gap or keep it the same? New coil is supposed to output 42,000v.

I grabbed the new coil to cover up a problem that I finally diagnosed to be either the fuel pressure regulator or the injectors. I'm leaning more towards the regulator, cuz when it's not connected it runs the very same as with it connected. I may still get the injectors, but the new ones will probably be higher capacity. Should I get a higher pressure fuel pump for them?

And THEN...Flowmaster muffler and high-flow cat, polished ports (maybe) Thanks for looking at this post; reply if you feel like it.

:beerete

 

[Eli]

You should be able to open the gap a bit, but don't do anything extreme.

As for the wires, copper should be better than carbon, I would imagine..

Buy both and test the resistance of the wires with an ohm meter, use whichever is lowest.

 

[FelixDeCat]

Well commen sense should tell you two things:

One, follow the manufactures recommended plug gap (usually already set when you buy it).

Two, dont be a cheapass - buy the wires from the dealer and use OEM equipment.

Otherwise if its a clunker - junker, Id go with copper.

 

I suppose Magnecor wires are the best, but how are ACCEL's? I put a Super Stock coil in my truck yesterday and I was kinda surprised at how smooth it runs now. Will Accels with a copper core be better than Belden w/carbon core? While I'm thinking about it, should I increase the plug gap or keep it the same? New coil is supposed to output 42,000v.

Pete ;

Copper will always be better than carbon core for the transmission of high voltages, granted that carbon core has better radio frequency supression but todays technological advances has brought the copper wires pretty damn close to that of carbon core.

Increase your plug gaps by .005 (Five thousands) at a time until you reach the point of misfire under load, then back off .005.Increasing the gap also puts a heavier load on you cap,rotor and wires because that voltage will try to find the easiest path to ground.Your entire ignition system must be in tip top shape or you will find out the hard way next time there are heavy rains in your area
Remember that the larger the gap, the easier it is for the spark kernal to ignite air/fuel mixture,thus increasing power and fuel economy and reducing emmissions.

I grabbed the new coil to cover up a problem that I finally diagnosed to be either the fuel pressure regulator or the injectors. I'm leaning more towards the regulator, cuz when it's not connected it runs the very same as with it connected. I may still get the injectors, but the new ones will probably be higher capacity. Should I get a higher pressure fuel pump for them?

To properly test the fuel pressure regulator you must hook up a fuel pressure gauge to the shrader valve on the fuel rail and apply at least 12 inches of vacuum to the regulator, if you do not have these tools, here's what you do ;

Warm up vehicle, disconnect vacuum hose from intake manifold, suck on the hose as hard as you can (No jokes please) , listen to the idle, it should change, now mind you that this test is not 100% accurate.

 

[Pilsnerpete]

Increase your plug gaps by .005 (Five thousands) at a time until you reach the point of misfire under load, then back off .005.Increasing the gap also puts a heavier load on you cap,rotor and wires because that voltage will try to find the easiest path to ground.Your entire ignition system must be in tip top shape or you will find out the hard way next time there are heavy rains in your area
Remember that the larger the gap, the easier it is for the spark kernal to ignite air/fuel mixture,thus increasing power and fuel economy and reducing emmissions.

I started from .031 and went straight to .040. Seems to run just a little rougher than with stock gap. When the wires I special-ordered from CSK (Checker, Schucks, Kragen depending on location) for $25 come in, I'll get a cap and rotor too and see if the gap needs further adjustment. It's not bad right now, just seemed a tad smoother @.031. Although I recently changed them (last year, but the cap is slightly pitted), it'll be nice to have the ignition up to snuff.

To properly test the fuel pressure regulator you must hook up a fuel pressure gauge to the shrader valve on the fuel rail and apply at least 12 inches of vacuum to the regulator, if you do not have these tools, here's what you do ;

Warm up vehicle, disconnect vacuum hose from intake manifold, suck on the hose as hard as you can (No jokes please) , listen to the idle, it should change, now mind you that this test is not 100% accurate.

Trouble is, there's no Schrader valve on the rail:Q, but I'll try the not-very-scientific approach of sucking on the vacuum tube. I should plug the intake side of the hose connection, right?

One, follow the manufactures recommended plug gap (usually already set when you buy it).

Two, dont be a cheapass - buy the wires from the dealer and use OEM equipment.

Otherwise if its a clunker - junker, Id go with copper.

One. I don't usually stray too far from the gospel according to Toyota, but I'm willing to make the exception for this
Two. I'm a cheapass. I can't help it. Why pay $95 for the Nippondenso coil or $45 for the stock wires if they're not as good as something you can get for less?

As for the wires, copper should be better than carbon, I would imagine..

Buy both and test the resistance of the wires with an ohm meter, use whichever is lowest.

That's what I'll do. It's probly safe to assume the new ones will have a lower resistance than my 1-yr old Beldens. I could be wrong though. I'll test them b4 I install them. I'm so cheap, I would take back a set of $25 wires if they weren't way better!

 

Trouble is, there's no Schrader valve on the rail, but I'll try the not-very-scientific approach of sucking on the vacuum tube. I should plug the intake side of the hose connection, right?

It's there, you just don't see it, yes, plug the intake manifold opening

 

[LAUST]

to answer the accell question, I had Accel 9000's, they were allright but my MSD's I have now are much bettr quality build.

and yep stick with the copper

 

[Zenmervolt]

Originally posted by: FelixDeKat
One, follow the manufactures recommended plug gap (usually already set when you buy it).

Two, dont be a cheapass - buy the wires from the dealer and use OEM equipment.

I almost always have at least one plug out of a set of four that is gapped wrong.

OEM wires are usually carbon core and they are almost never optimised for performance or conductivity. Buying from the dealer is very seldom the way to get the best-performing part. It's a good way to get the part that is compromised in the way that the manufacturer values though.

ZV

 

[Thegonagle]

Originally posted by: Pilsnerpete

I grabbed the new coil to cover up a problem that I finally diagnosed to be either the fuel pressure regulator or the injectors. I'm leaning more towards the regulator, cuz when it's not connected it runs the very same as with it connected. I may still get the injectors, but the new ones will probably be higher capacity. Should I get a higher pressure fuel pump for them?


:beerete

Maybe you had a bad coil, too. Why don't you replace the pressure regulator if it seems to be bad? Without a good regulator, you definitely don't want a higher pressure fuel pump. You don't need a new fuel pump if if the current one works fine. It takes a lot more modding than a coil and Flowmasters for the stock fuel system to become a limiting factor in your engine's performance.

 

[iamwiz82]

My entire ignition system is Accel and i am happy with it.

 

[Soybomb]

Why not just buy the magenors? They're probably cheaper than accells. I would recommend reading this http://www.magnecor.com/magnecor1/truth.htm

 

[tboo]

I have Accel 300+ wires in my C5. You can get them new & cheap off ebay

 

[Pilsnerpete]

I got the Super Stock Accel wires today that I ordered 3 days ago. Not too bad considering they told me 6 days. Just got done testing them and they're way worse than the Belden's I have on!! Sure, they may be 1mm thicker, but the resistance on #4 (the longest one) is damn near 18K-ohms. The book says to replace them @25K-ohms.
What surprised me was the resistance of the old Beldens: 9K-ohms on #4!!!!!

I should've known $25 for "performance" wires was too good to be true. I guess the old adage still stands.
You get what you pay for! Well, I guess I'll save my pennies and spring for the Magnecors @$65 if I upgrade the ignition any further.

Went to the salvage yard and grabbed a pressure regulator out of a slightly newer Toyota for $10. I may go back and scavenge all the turbo parts from it! That'd be sweeeeeeet!!!!!!!1 Assuming all the parts are there, how tricky would this be? If nothing else, I'll snag the injectors for the higher output and the throttle body cuz it says "Turbo EFI" on it

 

[zixxer]

it depends on the car manufacturer as to whether you benefit from buying from the dealer.

with my nissan, it is heavily modified, and stock nissan parts are STILL the way to go.


i had a grand am gt.. and anything from autozone is better than the dealer.

 

[Soybomb]

I know nothing about your car but a turbo swap would likely include ecu and wiring harness modifications among other unpleasantries.

Don't judge a plug wire solely on its resistance. http://www.magnecor.com/magnecor1/frequent.htm#4

 

[zixxer]

if your talking to me..

I do have a new ecu.. and the old wiring harness fit right up (other than alt. .. but that wasn't difficult to rewire..) and I am using stock nissan wires for my sr20.

 

[Pilsnerpete]

Originally posted by: se7enty7
if your talking to me..

I do have a new ecu.. and the old wiring harness fit right up (other than alt. .. but that wasn't difficult to rewire..) and I am using stock nissan wires for my sr20.

So you put a turbo in your Nissan? How'd it turn out?

**Teh new wires are carbon-cored. Should I take them back and get the Magnecors???

 

[zixxer]

Originally posted by: Pilsnerpete

Originally posted by: se7enty7
if your talking to me..

I do have a new ecu.. and the old wiring harness fit right up (other than alt. .. but that wasn't difficult to rewire..) and I am using stock nissan wires for my sr20.

So you put a turbo in your Nissan? How'd it turn out?

**Teh new wires are carbon-cored. Should I take them back and get the Magnecors???

Turned out fine. bought a red top front clip (bluebird..) the hardest pain in the ass was making the top mount intercooler into a front mount.. ecu was reprogrammed by jwt.

personally, if your car is stock, you won't notice a difference imo.

i would avoid bosch (personal experiance) they fell apart in a grand am gt i had.

 

[Zenmervolt]

Originally posted by: se7enty7
i would avoid bosch (personal experiance) they fell apart in a grand am gt i had.

I've had nothing but good experience with BOSCH. I pretty much use BOSCH parts exclusively on my Porsches and they're pretty much bulletproof.

ZV

 

[cavemanmoron]

Uh,how old,and how many miles on your plugs that you changed?

Do you take the car to the drag strip?


I put new plugs in my Camaro 3 or 4 years ago,and new wires 7 years ago.

But it has been only 7,000 miles in 7 years.

I gapped my plugs at ".35"

Hei,cheap wires,Standard blue rotor,old cap,and stock old coil,from a 1977 pickup,350 cid.