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Anyone want to help me burnish my brakes? (insane process)

F

Ferzerp

Diamond Member
Ok. So now I have to find somewhere that I can realistically go 0-60-0 for a total of 50 times in under 10 minutes.

That's right.... To get the heat required to properly break in carbon ceramic brakes, I'm supposed to stop from 60 every 12 seconds for 10 minutes straight.

I can't figure out a place with light enough traffic where I can safely do this.
 
That's crazy!

Depending on your area (and how you feel about it) one option could be talking to the police department to see if they have any suggestions. Since you have a legitimate reason to do this

Other thing I could think of would be some place that has a massive parking lot, like a Super Wal Mart or grocery store, and if you could talk them into it.

OR see if there are any local AutoX /racings events in your area, that's probably most realistic, they will already be zoning off a parking lot, I'm sure they wouldn't mind seeing a Z06 stretching it's legs

Thankfully the Z06 shouldn't take nearly as much distance to do this as a regular car
 
yottabit said:
That's crazy!

Depending on your area (and how you feel about it) one option could be talking to the police department to see if they have any suggestions. Since you have a legitimate reason to do this

Other thing I could think of would be some place that has a massive parking lot, like a Super Wal Mart or grocery store, and if you could talk them into it.

OR see if there are any local AutoX /racings events in your area, that's probably most realistic, they will already be zoning off a parking lot, I'm sure they wouldn't mind seeing a Z06 stretching it's legs

Thankfully the Z06 shouldn't take nearly as much distance to do this as a regular car
Click to expand...

all great ideas!

or if you have a local drag strip that isnt busy on a saturday morning. your 1/4 mile time might be kind of long though 😀
 
1. Medium Brake Application: Apply the brakes 25 times starting at 60 mph (100 km/h) to 30 mph (50 km/h) while decelerating at 0.4 g. Drive for at least 0.6 miles (1 km/h) between applying the brakes. This first step may be skipped if there are more than 200 miles (320 km/h) on the brake pads.
2. Hard Brake Application: Repeatedly apply the brakes from 60 mph
(100 km/h) to 15 mph (25 km/h) while decelerating at 0.8 g. Drive for at least 0.6 miles (1 km/h) between stops. Repeat until the brake pedal travel starts to increase. Depending on conditions, this should take no longer than 25 brake applications.
3. Cool Down: Drive at 60 mph
(100 km/h) for approximately 10 miles
(15 km) without using the brakes.
4. Medium Brake Application: Apply
the brakes 25 times from 60 mph (100 km/h) to 30 mph (50 km/h) while decelerating at 0.4 g. Drive for at least 0.6 miles (1 km) between applications.
Click to expand...

That is process for mine. Basically 15 miles of hard braking and driving, followed by 10 miles of non-stop driving, and then 15 miles of moderate braking and driving. Where do you find such a stretch of road where you don't get in an accident or pulled over?
 
Fenixgoon said:
all great ideas!

or if you have a local drag strip that isnt busy on a saturday morning. your 1/4 mile time might be kind of long though 😀
Click to expand...

I could beg the owner of the drop zone where I skydive to let me use his runway. It's almost half a mile.
 
Seems to me that if your new brakes require that you get a reckless driving ticket to set them up, you got the wrong brakes.
 
Why doesn't Chevrolet do this as part of the manufacturing process? You're paying for a top of the line performance car, you would think they could do this break-in of the brakes as part of the final inspection/QC check.
 
JulesMaximus said:
Why doesn't Chevrolet do this as part of the manufacturing process? You're paying for a top of the line performance car, you would think they could do this break-in of the brakes as part of the final inspection/QC check.
Click to expand...

I'm not aware of any car manufacturer that pre-beds iron brakes or pre-burnishes carbon ceramics.

Are you aware of any? Every "performance" vehicle I've owned has provided a process to handle new pads or rotors before high performance use outlined in the manual.
 
Ferzerp said:
I'm not aware of any car manufacturer that pre-beds iron brakes or pre-burnishes carbon ceramics.

Are you aware of any? Every "performance" vehicle I've owned has provided a process to handle new pads or rotors before high performance use outlined in the manual.
Click to expand...

Why would you deliver a car to a customer with some ridiculous process for bedding in the brakes that you couldn't possibly ever do legally on a public road?

I mean, this is a road car right?
 
JulesMaximus said:
Why doesn't Chevrolet do this as part of the manufacturing process? You're paying for a top of the line performance car, you would think they could do this break-in of the brakes as part of the final inspection/QC check.
Click to expand...

It's the same reason that Ducati doesn't... and that no one else does. They are selling you something new. Not something that has been driven/ridden hard enough to bed the brakes in.

Edit: The last time I bedded brakes I just did it on the highway outside our development. 60mph speed limit with 2 lanes in either direction, large center grass buffer area, and plenty of places to make u-turns. The directions for mine (this was on my Evo not the vette) was something like 20 stops from 60mph and a few (can't remember how many) from 80mph. It's fun - it's my "reward" when I change rotors/pads. As long as you do it with very light traffic you will be fine. It's not going to ruin it if you can't go 0-60-0-60-0-60 the whole time. If you have to stop for a min or 2 just do an extra 0-60-0 to build up more heat.
 
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Wuzup101 said:
It's the same reason that Ducati doesn't... and that no one else does. They are selling you something new. Not something that has been driven/ridden hard enough to bed the brakes in.
Click to expand...

Well, that and it's not required unless you are going to track the car. I've driven mine for 1500 miles now and it stops just fine.
 
a bunch of hwy pulls and decels from third would work but would push the legal boundries a bit but you could shut it down at 80 and get down to 20 or so and do that repeatedly in a safe area with no cars around etc.

any autocross events you can do this next weekend?
 
KentState said:
Well, that and it's not required unless you are going to track the car. I've driven mine for 1500 miles now and it stops just fine.
Click to expand...

Yup - that's a very good point. It's not like the brakes don't work from the factory. Bedding them properly does contribute to maximum performance and also life for your rotors.
 
Jack it up, rest the frames on blocks so the tires are free spinning... and do it in place (providing resistance with the engine by "riding the brakes")?

Or does this require the full resistance of the car to do properly?

(I'm not a car guy; I just love speculative problem solving)
 
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I'd go on the interstate whenever and wherever has the least amount of traffic. That seems like a really weird bedding procedure, especially with the stops down to 0...

Jaepheth said:
Jack it up, rest the frames on blocks so the tires are free spinning... and do it in place (providing resistance with the engine by "riding the brakes")?

Or does this require the full resistance of the car to do properly?

(I'm not a car guy; I just love speculative problem solving)
Click to expand...

:thumbsdown:

The inertia of the spinning drive-train is nowhere near the inertia of the whole car. This won't work. Not to mention that getting everything spinning up to 60mph with no load can get dangerous and is counter-indicated by some operating manuals (not sure about this specific car).
 
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Ferzerp said:
I can't figure out a place with light enough traffic where I can safely do this.
Click to expand...

Ouch. That's like owning a thoroughbred horse and 2 acres of property or a speed boat in a no wake zone. Can't you go for an early sunday morning drive and find some decent roads?
 
When I hear going 0-60-0 in 12 seconds... I think what I used to do on my GSXR on the highways.

This isn't totally what you need but it comes close. The only other option in my mind is a track.

Get on highway, get up to speed and find an exit (maybe check google maps) where you can get right back on the highway going in the opposite direction with no stop lights involved (easy like me if you live in a more rural area).

So, basically you get up to speed on the highway, take the off ramp and brake down to 0 when it get to the end. Then, speed back up and take the turn back onto the highway going on the other direction, take that next off ramp.. Rinse and repeat.

I did this endlessly on my motorcycle in a few specific areas because once you've had a sportbike long enough, going fast isn't really that fun any more on public roads with out risking a ticket and losing the license. So I'd just find really good on and off ramps to the highway, and ride those puppies over and over again, leaning off and getting the bike nice and low. I never got over 75 or 80 because the on and off ramps were so close together. I think that's really the key for you if you want to do 1 cycle in 12 seconds. Might be hard because no stop lights near ramps = rural area which = exits far apart.

Something like that may work for you... Good luck.
 
Jaepheth said:
Jack it up, rest the frames on blocks so the tires are free spinning... and do it in place (providing resistance with the engine by "riding the brakes")?

Or does this require the full resistance of the car to do properly?

(I'm not a car guy; I just love speculative problem solving)
Click to expand...

There are a couple reasons why this wouldn't work.

1) You would only be spinning the rear wheels.
2) Part of the bedding in process is generating heat in a specific manner, stopping a rotating wheel from 60mph would take a fraction of a second and generate very little heat. Stopping the entire car from 60mph would take substantially more time and generate substantially more heat.
 
I'd find an industrial area with a large parking lot on the weekend when its empty. That's where I do all my brake bedding. No public road anywhere near you could get away with bedding in safely around here though.
 
JulesMaximus said:
There are a couple reasons why this wouldn't work.

1) You would only be spinning the rear wheels.
2) Part of the bedding in process is generating heat in a specific manner, stopping a rotating wheel from 60mph would take a fraction of a second and generate very little heat. Stopping the entire car from 60mph would take substantially more time and generate substantially more heat.
Click to expand...

Well, duh, you first go to your local ag service center to fill your wheels with CaCl so yo have more mass to rotate 😛
 
To bed my track pads in, i have to go to the track. Doing it on public highways around here is too dangerous as there is always someone on the road. That and there is just simply no roads or parking lots that have straightaways long enough. If you know of any deserted areas, i guess that would be ok too
 
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