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Anyone know how to remove instrument panel of Antec P160?

P

patrickdom

Junior Member
Hi all, I just put together a new system and the power button on the case is defective. I would like to just take off the front instrument panel and attempt to fix it myself rather than send it back. Does anyone know how to take that top/front panel off without damaging the case so that I can get to the wires?
 
There are two screws that need to be accessed from up behind the panel. All 5.25" bays will need to be empty to get at them.

There are also a couple of screws at the front of the panel that need to come out.
 
Originally posted by: RalfHutter
There are two screws that need to be accessed from up behind the panel. All 5.25" bays will need to be empty to get at them.

There are also a couple of screws at the front of the panel that need to come out.
Click to expand...

I was going to suggest a crescent hammer, but his idea sounds much better.
 
Welcome patrickdom, looks like your in for a little work.

Going back into work well done because of a defective part is no fun. Sorry you might have to do it.

One of the Elites that posts here had the same thing happen on a new build in a new case.
After reading his post, i decided that in the present and all future builds the reset and power-on button would be checked first thing when the case came out of the shipping box.
Mine were OK. I use the ohm meter that my DMM has but a powered test light could also be used.
You might consider using this tip in the future. Just to put your mind at ease, check the reset button while your back into the case.

Galvanized
 
Getting inside that panel after it's out is really tough. Antec said they had no information on how it was put together, so I had to poke and pry. I never did get it fixed (headphone jack was dead). I tried to buy a whole new panel from Antec, they said the part was out of stock. After two or three months and several calls to Antec, I gave up and installed a multi port panel with a headphone jack in it.
 
Thanks for all the advice. Wow, from what it sounds like, I might be better off just sending the case back to NewEgg! I was thinking that would be a waste, but I don't want to invest a bunch more time trying to fix something that should have worked upon delivery if my chances of fixing it arent pretty strong.

Good tip on the light test - live and learn I guess. Since this was my first build, I guess I was more concerned about me hooking everything up correctly than I was about defective parts.
 
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