Anyone here winterize their own irrigation system?

Wyndru

Diamond Member
Apr 9, 2009
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I have a small 5 stage sprinkler system, and each year I blow out the system with a 6 gallon 150 psi pancake compressor.

It takes a few rounds to fully blow it out. I let the compressor get up to 60 psi (which supposedly is safe for the lines), then open the zone and let it blow out the water. I have to do each zone a couple of times because the capacity isn't there to do it in 1 shot per zone. The whole thing takes a couple of hours to get all of the water out due to settling in the lines after the compressor fully empties.

Does anyone here do this themselves, and if so, what size compressor do you have? I'm thinking about buying a new one, I was looking at 200 psi, 1.3hp 15 gallon, but I don't know if it will do the job or not. I don't know what the HP is on the compressor I have, but according to a google search, it's only .8.

Any that does this have any suggestions on what size would be adequate?
 

DrPizza

Administrator Elite Member Goat Whisperer
Mar 5, 2001
49,601
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www.slatebrookfarm.com
Your compressor doesn't have the ability to regulate what pressure the output is at? Most I've seen have a pressure regulator on the output - 150psi in the tank, but you control the pressure that the output is at.

I'm not sure where you are in upstate NY, but that hard frost Fri night was pretty harsh. Around 10am yesterday, I heard a spraying sound & went to investigate. I had a small pond & water spraying all over the backyard. *sigh* Time to manually fill the dog's water dish & animal's water buckets for a few months.
 
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Prong

Senior member
Jul 11, 2000
539
17
81
It's not so much psi that you need, but tank size to speed things up. I've got a 6hp/33 gal and I run it at 40psi to blow out the lines. Too much pressure will blow the valves apart. I did mine today, and it took about 30 minutes for a 6-zone system.
 

Miramonti

Lifer
Aug 26, 2000
28,651
100
91
I don't own a compressor so I've never winterized them. It's always been a concern tho.
 

Miramonti

Lifer
Aug 26, 2000
28,651
100
91
avatar254730_10.gif

I wonder how many people here have no clue what these are. Times are changin'!
 

sdifox

No Lifer
Sep 30, 2005
98,730
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oh its something only you old farts would know!

I used them as shuriken as a kid.

My dad was not amused since they were technically speaking, merchandise. :biggrin:


<--grew up in an electronic parts retailer/mid level distributor.
 

Squisher

Lifer
Aug 17, 2000
21,204
66
91
Generally 30 gallon is the smallest I've seen anyone use.

I pay $25, and they use a trailered commercial screw air compressor ($10K+)
 

waggy

No Lifer
Dec 14, 2000
68,143
10
81
I used them as shuriken as a kid.

My dad was not amused since they were technically speaking, merchandise. :biggrin:


<--grew up in an electronic parts retailer/mid level distributor.

after you linked them i remember'd what they were. I used to do the same to my dads. he is a major record junky. he still listens to them all the time.he has so damn box's filled with records its insane.
 

skyking

Lifer
Nov 21, 2001
22,622
5,730
146
If you are installing a new system, you can design it so it does not need to be blown out with air. It takes careful attention to grade. Install drains at the low points, open them up in the fall. Done.
 

Wyndru

Diamond Member
Apr 9, 2009
7,318
4
76
Your compressor doesn't have the ability to regulate what pressure the output is at? Most I've seen have a pressure regulator on the output - 150psi in the tank, but you control the pressure that the output is at.

It does, I just set it to 60psi, supposedly that is safe for the system so that I don't damage anything. I've read from a few sites that 70 is safe too, but when you hit 80 or higher you start blowing valves.

I think my issue is mainly capacity, not pressure. The little tank just doesn't hold enough air to blow it out in 1 shot. Also the small hp on it takes it a while to charge it, which is another time waster.
 

Wyndru

Diamond Member
Apr 9, 2009
7,318
4
76
It's not so much psi that you need, but tank size to speed things up. I've got a 6hp/33 gal and I run it at 40psi to blow out the lines. Too much pressure will blow the valves apart. I did mine today, and it took about 30 minutes for a 6-zone system.

Ahh, that's what I figured. Maybe I can find a decent 30+ gallon unit without breaking the bank. The 15 gallon units I've seen run about $200-$300, hopefully a 30 gallon will be less than $500.

Does it take up a lot of space?
 

runzwithsizorz

Diamond Member
Jan 24, 2002
3,497
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Ahh, that's what I figured. Maybe I can find a decent 30+ gallon unit without breaking the bank. The 15 gallon units I've seen run about $200-$300, hopefully a 30 gallon will be less than $500.

Does it take up a lot of space?
I have no trouble what so ever with my 6 gallon, and I do several each year. I have rigged a quick connect adapter which screws into the 1/4" bleeder valve on the backflow. Pressure, is also of no concern, for valves are designed to handle 150+psi, AND, it will be open ended. You may want to wait for the tank to refill between zones though. A large tank is good to have for large area paint spraying, so if you've got the moola, GET IT!
 
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OutHouse

Lifer
Jun 5, 2000
36,410
616
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i just did mine sunday morning. i have just craftman 20 gallon 150 psi compressor and it takes me half the day for my 6 zones. have to wait for the compressor to get up to its auto cutoff PSI

60 psi is the max, i do mine at 50psi and i make two circuits through each zone. on the second pass quite a bit of water still gets shot out.

this is the one have had for 10 years.

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-20-g...0916643000P?prdNo=12&blockNo=12&blockType=G12
 
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runzwithsizorz

Diamond Member
Jan 24, 2002
3,497
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76
If you are installing a new system, you can design it so it does not need to be blown out with air. It takes careful attention to grade. Install drains at the low points, open them up in the fall. Done.

This is primarily how I design my systems, though it really helps if the property is on a slope, or the point of connection is in the basement.
This will drain the main lines, however water will still be present in your zone lines, so I still recommend a blow out, especially if you have drip zones. There are below grade weeper valves you can get and install on the zone ends that open at less than 3 psi. I have not tried them as yet, and they could add as much as $40 per zone. I have still seen frost damage to above grade backflows, meters, and regulators even when there was no water present, which is why I mount them on unions, and have the customer store it inside for the winter.
 

Druidx

Platinum Member
Jul 16, 2002
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What you want to blow out a line is high volume but low pressure, the exact opposite of a normal compressor. A common spring time repair for sprinkler companies is fixing a blown off end cap or elbow because the home owner used to high of pressure when blowing the lines.
One option is to have a pro do it with a high volume compressor. It doesn't cost that much and you can usually get a good discount if several neighbors have it done at the same time. I think the best option is to have drains installed at the end or low spot of each zone, then you'll never need to have the lines blown out.
If flexible poly pipe was used, you can install vents to allow a little water to drain out of the sprinkler heads. Which will allow enough room for expansion when the pipe freezes. Ridged PVC on the other hand, needs all the water removed to be safe.
 

rh71

No Lifer
Aug 28, 2001
52,844
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Generally 30 gallon is the smallest I've seen anyone use.

I pay $25, and they use a trailered commercial screw air compressor ($10K+)

Is $25 the going rate for everyone? I could've sworn they charge upwards of $50. I think you can turn it back on in the spring on your own right? I don't mind paying once a year for winterizing. I hadn't done it in the past and I guess I've just been lucky.
 

EagleKeeper

Discussion Club Moderator<br>Elite Member
Staff member
Oct 30, 2000
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Is $25 the going rate for everyone? I could've sworn they charge upwards of $50. I think you can turn it back on in the spring on your own right? I don't mind paying once a year for winterizing. I hadn't done it in the past and I guess I've just been lucky.

I paid $40 last year to winterize my system. Needed to schedule it out 2 weeks in advance
 
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Wyndru

Diamond Member
Apr 9, 2009
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i just did mine sunday morning. i have just craftman 20 gallon 150 psi compressor and it takes me half the day for my 6 zones. have to wait for the compressor to get up to its auto cutoff PSI

60 psi is the max, i do mine at 50psi and i make two circuits through each zone. on the second pass quite a bit of water still gets shot out.

this is the one have had for 10 years.

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-20-ga...&amp;blockType=G12

Ok, so you have very similar results as me with a larger tank. Most of the time spent is waiting for it to cut-off at 150psi. Maybe I just need to be patient. I've had a company do it before, I think he charged me $65, but he wasn't even available for 2 weeks after I called, so I was worried that we would have a deep frost in that time. I like being able to say, "ok today I'm going to do it", and just get it done, rather waiting for someone to come out.

When the guy blew it out, he had a truck that had a huge air tank on it, and he was able to be able to blow it out in 1 round.

I also realized this year that I should blow out the zones in reverse, it seems that the zone closest to the compressor (zone 1) keeps building up with water as I move to the other zones, so maybe my system is somewhat sloped. I just wish it had some kind of draining valve.