Anyone here ever put in a DROP ceiling ?

leeland

Diamond Member
Dec 12, 2000
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how hard is it to set up ? I have a general idea that you put the runners around the edges (level...equal...ect)...

and then you have to design or make the grid portion work...so that it is also equal...


what is the hardest part that you have come across when you are putting this type of ceiling together ?

Also how hard is it to do the electrical for lights on a drop ceiling ? it is all wired already with boxes for the lights...


Any commments would be appreciated...


Thanks,

Leeland
 

DuallyX

Golden Member
Sep 6, 2000
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It's really not too bad. I'm by far no expert when it comes to handyman type stuff, but I was able to figure it out. Remember- measure twice, cut once.
 

MartyMcFly3

Lifer
Jan 18, 2003
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Only problem I foresee you having if you are doing this yourself is making sure the panels fit. Those things can be a pain in the ass at times.

As for lighting, we have flourescent tubes in a box that holds them, with a plastic panel underneath.
 

MX2

Lifer
Apr 11, 2004
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PM redgtxdi. I tried to find his thread with no luck:( Anyway, he did an awesome job on one recently at his office and the pics speak for themselves:)
 
Nov 5, 2001
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1. Make sure you draw a perfectly LEVEL line around the entire room. If possible, rent or borrow a rotating laser.
2. Install the wall mould. Nail or screw to each stud. Cut one of the pieces in the corner at a 45* angle for a mitered look
3. Figure the layout. Mains every 4 feet. If room is 19 feet wide then 4 mains x 4 feet = 16 feet, so split the extra 3 feet into 18" on both sides of room. 4 foot tees and 2 foot tees intersect every 2 feet, so do the same that direction.
4. Install eye screws and wires about every 6 feet along the length of the main tees (the long ones)
5. Install main tees every 4 feet taking care to bend the wire up through the hole so the tee is JUST ABOVE level (maybe 1/8" ). If you don't have a laser, run string tightly from one wall to the other to check your height. Twist free end of wire around the other side several times. You will need to make sure you cut your mains the same, as the slots on them must line up all the way across the room.
6. Install 4 foot and 2 foot tees. These will snap into the slots on the mains...you will hear a small click. After installing the first few (6 or so), check that your grid is square by measuring diagonally in the openings.
7. Cut border tile (around the perimeter). Push end of tape to the wall, and measure back to center of tees. Subtract 1/4". Cut tile to that dimension. For novices, avoid tegular or reveal tile (that have a recessed edge) as they are harder to cut well.
8. Drop field tile (full ones)
9. Admire a job well done.
 

EagleKeeper

Discussion Club Moderator<br>Elite Member
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Oct 30, 2000
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Originally posted by: MX2times
PM redgtxdi. I tried to find his thread with no luck:( Anyway, he did an awesome job on one recently at his office and the pics speak for themselves:)
Thread

 

redgtxdi

Diamond Member
Jun 23, 2004
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Ahemm.........(cough, cough)............thank you, thank you.........you may all sit down now!!!

Oh, pleeeaze..........stop.........stop already!!! (har har har ) :D


Well, I can't exactly take credit for the *ceiling* itself......only the lighting. I *did*, however, watch the ceiling go in very carefully.

First............

Installers had this really cool laser level that revolved like a siren. This keeps your border brackets perfectly level.........(the red dot keeps going around & around).

Then, after your brackets are on, you can start to work on your center point. Then you work out connecting the grid brackets from there.

(Ours only encompasses 3 walls and 2 of those were drywall and one was concrete. The drywall version got a fancy nail, but the concrete wall got some gnarly lookin' rivets)

The part that's kinda' not so DIY (imho) is they had this way cool installation tool that drove this uber-agressive "loop" type fasteners (kinda' like lag bolts) that went into the warehouse ceiling with a drill motor on the bottom & a looooooong tube going up to the ceiling.

The drop wire is looped thru the fastener, then the fastener was driven into the ceiling by pulling the trigger on the drill, then the pole was dropped ever slightly, then the drill motor squeezed again which causes the wire to twist (ensuring no way to come off the looped-end fastener now) then they remove the tube completely & you have a hanging wire that you later cut to whatever length you need for your grid brackets.

Now, I think you could get away with doin' it the hard way if you don't need to reach 20ft into a warehouse ceiling. Maybe just twist 'em in w/ pliers or make your own kinda' tool?? (Kinda like when you use your floor jack at home, then to lower it you take the handle & twist that little slotted end to lower it)

The brackets themselves are "clasped" together and "pinned" at intersections. (Ends, I noticed the guys just stuck unused rivets thru......kinda' like deadbolting your door). Then the butted connections have this little flat metal clasps that hold ends together.

Out from center, once you get the hang of it, you should be able to move pretty quickly, then when you get to the ends/edges, you'll have to start cutting brackets to length.

Lastly........(and the easiest part).........will be dropping the panels in. I had to remove almost half the panels when I did the lighting job. When your grid's all done, just start dropping ceiling panels in place & it'll start looking complete.

If you do 2 x 4 grid spacing, you'll be able to drop standard 2 x 4 lighting fixtures right in. (Definitely wire them up to the ceiling though, too 'cuz if one fell, it'd hurt somebody like a mother). Then you can leave the lights in like I did for a couple weeks before you find out that electricians want too much money for lighting & do that yourself too & save $$$.

:cool::p:)
 
Nov 5, 2001
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If you room is simple and rectangular, here's a link to tell you how much material you will need.

Grid Calculator

Mains and Tees usually run about $0.36/ft where we buy them, but a consumer will probably pay a little more. Tile can run from $0.38/sf to over a dollar a foot depending on style and type.
 

Kelemvor

Lifer
May 23, 2002
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If anything, make the grid part a teeny bit larger than you should so that it's easier to get the panels in and out. I haveone in my basement and some of them are so tight if I pop up a panel it's a pina in the ass to get it back in and I have to push it down from the top of the next oen over... but then that one won't go back in... Blah.

Unless you can get them pre-punched than it takes all the guess work out.
 
Nov 5, 2001
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Originally posted by: FrankyJunior
If anything, make the grid part a teeny bit larger than you should so that it's easier to get the panels in and out. I haveone in my basement and some of them are so tight if I pop up a panel it's a pina in the ass to get it back in and I have to push it down from the top of the next oen over... but then that one won't go back in... Blah.

Unless you can get them pre-punched than it takes all the guess work out.


you didn't get your grid square is the problem...
 

EagleKeeper

Discussion Club Moderator<br>Elite Member
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Oct 30, 2000
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Originally posted by: FrankyJunior
If anything, make the grid part a teeny bit larger than you should so that it's easier to get the panels in and out. I haveone in my basement and some of them are so tight if I pop up a panel it's a pina in the ass to get it back in and I have to push it down from the top of the next oen over... but then that one won't go back in... Blah.

Unless you can get them pre-punched than it takes all the guess work out.

Most lips have a 1/2 rail.
Allow 1/4 inch on each side for adjustment and life will be a lot easier when working with them.

 

leeland

Diamond Member
Dec 12, 2000
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I saw a ceiling plan at Home Depot where you drill right into the 2x6's of the 1st floor...that way you don't have to deal with the wires and so forth..

the concept looked to be about the same for the most part...with getting things level all the way around the perimeter...

I was hoping to either purchase a rotating laser level or borrow one from a friend.


I was envisoning that once the other portions were set up correctly that the measuring and lining up the grid would go smoothly.

The square area of this drop ceiling is relativly small...

like 11'6" X 8'

I had boxed in some vent work...and have to enclose some pipes that run right under the wood work.

Once I get going on it I will take a couple of pictures of the room to give everyone an idea.


Thanks for the initial information guys I appreciate the comments.

Leeland
 
Nov 5, 2001
18,366
3
0
Originally posted by: leeland
I saw a ceiling plan at Home Depot where you drill right into the 2x6's of the 1st floor...that way you don't have to deal with the wires and so forth..

the concept looked to be about the same for the most part...with getting things level all the way around the perimeter...

I was hoping to either purchase a rotating laser level or borrow one from a friend.


I was envisoning that once the other portions were set up correctly that the measuring and lining up the grid would go smoothly.

The square area of this drop ceiling is relativly small...

like 11'6" X 8'

I had boxed in some vent work...and have to enclose some pipes that run right under the wood work.

Once I get going on it I will take a couple of pictures of the room to give everyone an idea.


Thanks for the initial information guys I appreciate the comments.

Leeland


that will be real easy to do...just remember if you're using recessed lights, you cant run the main down the center of the room the 8' direction.
 

leeland

Diamond Member
Dec 12, 2000
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76
Originally posted by: MikeyIs4Dcats

that will be real easy to do...just remember if you're using recessed lights, you cant run the main down the center of the room the 8' direction.


when you say you can run the MAIN down the center of the room the 8 foot direction, what do you mean ?


The wiring is all in from the previous owner...I am sort of finishing up on the room...

So if you were to envision...the room is like so:
_________________________________________________
|




* *



|_________________________________________________|
the light sockets are as follows by the *

EDIT: the formatting on this thing sucks balls, anyways the two * are supposed to be spaced 1/3 on each side of the middle of the room...

The studs run vertically in the room ||

I was planning on using some sort of recessed light...but thought I could just run the wires from the box to the recessed lighting...and that i could just cut some holes in the panels to accept the recessed light.


Leeland
 
Nov 5, 2001
18,366
3
0
Originally posted by: leeland
Originally posted by: MikeyIs4Dcats

that will be real easy to do...just remember if you're using recessed lights, you cant run the main down the center of the room the 8' direction.


when you say you can run the MAIN down the center of the room the 8 foot direction, what do you mean ?


The wiring is all in from the previous owner...I am sort of finishing up on the room...

So if you were to envision...the room is like so:
_________________________________________________
|




* *



|_________________________________________________|
the light sockets are as follows by the *

EDIT: the formatting on this thing sucks balls, anyways the two * are supposed to be spaced 1/3 on each side of the middle of the room...

The studs run vertically in the room ||

I was planning on using some sort of recessed light...but thought I could just run the wires from the box to the recessed lighting...and that i could just cut some holes in the panels to accept the recessed light.


Leeland

Ahh...if you're using can lights (small round ones) you hve more latitude. I assumed you meant you were using 2x4 recessed fixtures.

PM me if you need any more help, I can draw something up and email it...