Anyone have experience with high output alternators?

[jlee]

I'm looking for one (2007 Lexus GX470). IIRC stock is 130 amp, looking around the 200a range (or more because reasons). They're cheap on eBay but I'm not sure I trust that. Are there any well-reputed places building quality/reliable alternators I should check?

 

[LTC8K6]

If you have a shop near you that rebuilds them, they may be able to increase the output considerably.

 

[Pacfanweb]

Most of the ratings are bogus. The local shop Zen recommended is best.

High-output alternator ratings about about as truthful as wattage ratings for car stereo and home theater receivers.

 

[Triumph]

many times they're boosted at increased RPM's, so if you're sitting in a parking lot blasting your stereo at idle, you're not going to see any benefits. what, pray tell, are you doing to a GX470 that needs more than 130 amps? 200 amps is a ton.

 

[jlee]

many times they're boosted at increased RPM's, so if you're sitting in a parking lot blasting your stereo at idle, you're not going to see any benefits. what, pray tell, are you doing to a GX470 that needs more than 130 amps? 200 amps is a ton.

I want to be able to reliably recharge a deep cycle battery from discharged to full without killing the alternator. I am assuming a HO model is the appropriate route, but I could be mistaken.

 

[Triumph]

I want to be able to reliably recharge a deep cycle battery from discharged to full without killing the alternator. I am assuming a HO model is the appropriate route, but I could be mistaken.

If you want to do that, then you need a specific battery charger, something with circuit controlled modes. Typically for deep cycle batteries, a good charger like an Odyssey or Schumacher will do a bulk charge at a constant high current, then an absorption charge at constant high voltage, then a trickle charge. A car alternator is just going to put out 14.7 volts no matter what, without any feedback on the battery.

I have used these marine grade chargers at work to create a 24 volt battery system using Optima Blue Tops in a 12 volt vehicle. http://www.marinco.com/en/products/convert/battery-chargers/onboards

I need an inverter though to be able to run it off of the vehicle 12v side.

Look at marine and RV battery chargers, they are all deep-cycle batteries and may do what you want.

 

[jlee]

If you want to do that, then you need a specific battery charger, something with circuit controlled modes. Typically for deep cycle batteries, a good charger like an Odyssey or Schumacher will do a bulk charge at a constant high current, then an absorption charge at constant high voltage, then a trickle charge. A car alternator is just going to put out 14.7 volts no matter what, without any feedback on the battery.

I have used these marine grade chargers at work to create a 24 volt battery system using Optima Blue Tops in a 12 volt vehicle. http://www.marinco.com/en/products/convert/battery-chargers/onboards

I need an inverter though to be able to run it off of the vehicle 12v side.

Look at marine and RV battery chargers, they are all deep-cycle batteries and may do what you want.

Hmm. Using one of those seems to make for a complicated setup - would need to isolate the second battery from the alternator and then rely on alternator/primary battery output to run an inverter to run a charger for the secondary. Perhaps I should do moar research.

 

[razel]

I want to be able to reliably recharge a deep cycle battery from discharged to full without killing the alternator. I am assuming a HO model is the appropriate route, but I could be mistaken.

Electricity usage is a pull so that battery will drink amps at whatever rate it wants. If it's taking more than 130 amps then something is VERY wrong with it. Additionally if your alternator is putting out 130 amps, it won't be doing it idle, you'll be doing it at freeway speeds or more accurately wherever RPM it outputs max amperage.

If you really want to recharge a deep cycle battery, then ensure that you take it on the freeway often enough and when you get home plug a battery minder/maintainer to it. However, IMO, if you do all that there's no point in buying a deep cycle battery if it never sees a deep cycle... just buy a regular one.

For comparison sake, my weekend ride has a 80 amp stock alternator. It's running a sound system of 1800 RMS. Yes, it's not continuous, but point being. I have no need for deep cycle, capacitors or need beyond always plugging it into a battery minder. Well actually, I do recommend a BIG 3 wire upgrade but luxury cars are often already well done.

 

[jlee]

Electricity usage is a pull so that battery will drink amps at whatever rate it wants. If it's taking more than 130 amps then something is VERY wrong with it. Additionally if your alternator is putting out 130 amps, it won't be doing it idle, you'll be doing it at freeway speeds or more accurately wherever RPM it outputs max amperage.

If you really want to recharge a deep cycle battery, then ensure that you take it on the freeway often enough and when you get home plug a battery minder/maintainer to it. However, IMO, if you do all that there's no point in buying a deep cycle battery if it never sees a deep cycle... just buy a regular one.

For comparison sake, my weekend ride has a 80 amp stock alternator. It's running a sound system of 1800 RMS. Yes, it's not continuous, but point being. I have no need for deep cycle, capacitors or need beyond always plugging it into a battery minder. Well actually, I do recommend a BIG 3 wire upgrade but luxury cars are often already well done.

I'm guessing you don't have a 12,000lb winch (that can pull 440 amps) in your weekend ride.

Keeping everything topped up at home isn't a problem, but I want to make sure I'm not putting undue wear on a stock alternator on day #6 offroad (there are no freeways where I plan on going). Realistically though, I might be safe with a stock alternator...the primary/vehicle battery won't see much (or any) additional load over stock, and the second battery will mostly just be running a fridge and might be supplemented with 90w solar if I'm parked for an extended period, so it might not be that hard on the stock unit. The exception on overall load is winching, but hopefully that will be exceedingly rare anyway (and buffered by two batteries).

My main goal is to have an alternator that won't burn up doing significant charging on a daily basis. I don't really need high amps but was thinking it might be more beefy overall. If I'm mistaken, then hurray - it's cheaper.

 

[razel]

If you really are doing what you are saying, then don't rely on the alternator to fully recharge 2 batteries. You'll want enough to start your car, back on the freeway to give enough charge back, then when you get home plug it into the wall. You are a good candidate for the big 3 upgrade. The bigger the wires, the less resistance at higher amperage.

So keep the stock alternator, beef up your wires going to your winch within reason and get used to topping off your batteries when you get home.

 

[LTC8K6]

I'm guessing you don't have a 12,000lb winch (that can pull 440 amps) in your weekend ride.

Keeping everything topped up at home isn't a problem, but I want to make sure I'm not putting undue wear on a stock alternator on day #6 offroad (there are no freeways where I plan on going). Realistically though, I might be safe with a stock alternator...the primary/vehicle battery won't see much (or any) additional load over stock, and the second battery will mostly just be running a fridge and might be supplemented with 90w solar if I'm parked for an extended period, so it might not be that hard on the stock unit. The exception on overall load is winching, but hopefully that will be exceedingly rare anyway (and buffered by two batteries).

My main goal is to have an alternator that won't burn up doing significant charging on a daily basis. I don't really need high amps but was thinking it might be more beefy overall. If I'm mistaken, then hurray - it's cheaper.

Carry a portable generator and bring a 15A battery charger, because the DC output is not enough. Plus, you can run other stuff.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Honda-10...co-Throttle-and-Oil-Alert-EU1000T1A/206192043

 

[natto fire]

I am an electrician that mainly works on mains voltages, so take my advice with that caveat. I'm still amazed we use 12v in a car now that there are kW loads present in even basic cars.

Not sure how alternators compare, but we try to size stuff to 80% of load for intermittent duty, and 120% for continuous duty.

It sounds like your winch is an intermittent load, but at 440 amps (I'm assuming that is inrush current) it is no joke. It is still a motor though, and motors get a pass and conductors can be sized to 60% of LRA in the AC world. I know very little of the DC, so again, grain of salt.

In my locality, I know of one shop that will rewind alternators and have ways to trick the built-in field excitation to tap into the extra capacity.

This might be yet another time when you find a better solution searching locally.

 

[Triumph]

It sounds like you have a lot going on with your truck. You might want to consider adding a second battery in parallel if you want some more security. I am a big fan of Odyssey batteries, take a look at their lineup.

 

[herm0016]

check out the power systems forum on expo jlee, lots of help there, and they know what you are going for. I have a blue sea split charge system going in my truck when i get around to fabing the winch mount.

https://www.bluesea.com/products/category/35/91/Automatic_Charging_Relays/ML-ACRs

i have 100 watt renogy kit solar on my camper and can run my ARB 48 qt fridge for ever. just be aware you cant common ground the camper and truck if you use their kit. i stuck a relay between my clearance lights and truck 7 pin plug to isolate the systems. I use a duracell deep cycle as they are about the cheapest amp hrs you can buy. my camper battery is completely separate from my truck systems. on a single unit, you have to make sure you have a neg. ground solar charge controller.

 

[jlee]

Ah, didn't know there was a power forum on expo - I'll check it out. Thanks!

I have a line on one of these (actually two, but I just need one) for $280. Tempted...

 

[herm0016]

that's a decent price for 90 watts portable. I think i paid just about 200 for my kit.

 

[jlee]

that's a decent price for 90 watts portable. I think i paid just about 200 for my kit.

Have a link? Since I don't have a trailer/RV a portable unit is probably best for me, but I'm curious.

 

[herm0016]

http://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Watts-...ie=UTF8&qid=1442350621&sr=8-3&keywords=RENOGY

 

[jlee]

http://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Watts-...ie=UTF8&qid=1442350621&sr=8-3&keywords=RENOGY

Are those durable enough to sit outside all the time? I could mount them on my rack (I have a flat platform roofrack), or get the portable unit and just set it up when needed.

 

[Triumph]

I am not positive but those look very similar to some panels that we have at work. If so, they are meant for 24/365 outdoor duty.

 

[herm0016]

that controller is supposed to be a pos. ground, though mine is set up as neg and works just fine. the panel is plenty durable, i have it mounted on the roof of my slide in. The panels on the house we just bought also look nearly the same.

We did Medano pass this weekend, spend many miles in 4x4 low and even had to break out the bridging ladders. We had less trouble than the stock wrangler and the f150 behind us mainly due to my locking rear diff, even with the extra 1k weight of the camper. We let them use my ladders to get over a bad section. Its about as off road as i want to go with the pickup and camper.

 

[jlee]

Locking diffs are super helpful. My 80 was f/r locked, but the GX isn't. Maybe one of these days...

Reading on expo, it looks like a stock alternator is fine for recharging dual batteries. I might just stick with that and use the extra money I was going to use for a HO alt for solar. Hmm.

 

[K7SN]

How freaking big is your deep cycle battery? I have 1000amp deep cycle battery inside by my bronco (Marine Optima Bluetop) and often run it down to 7 or 8 volts before my ham radio stops listening and I can recharge to 12.8 volts in 20 minutes with ordinary 60amp car charger, at about 2,000 RPM on my motor, not idling. Learned long ago to power the radio off a isolated battery so I can always start my car and recharge.

 

[jlee]

How freaking big is your deep cycle battery? I have 1000amp deep cycle battery inside by my bronco (Marine Optima Bluetop) and often run it down to 7 or 8 volts before my ham radio stops listening and I can recharge to 12.8 volts in 20 minutes with ordinary 60amp car charger, at about 2,000 RPM on my motor, not idling. Learned long ago to power the radio off a isolated battery so I can always start my car and recharge.

It's not in yet- just after hearing anecdotal stuff like this for the last 10 years, I thought I'd need a high output unit for more severe duty. From further research/poking around on the interwebs, it appears that may not be the case.

 

[Pulsar]

I'd recommend a second battery if you seriously think you're going to be using the winch that much. Boaters have a starting battery and a house bank. They are charged in tandem, but the starter battery only ever is used for starting, and the house bank is used for all the accessories. That way when you mess up and kill your house bank listening to an insane stereo or using an obscenely large winch, you can still start her up with your starter battery.

Truthfully though, I think you should put a deep cycle in and try it out. See what it's really going to do the battery. Pull your truck out of a ditch or two and see what happens. Even easier - keep a cheap battery in the bed in case you really do kill the other one, at least until you have some confidence.