Anyone had a need to get a jump start on a drained battery recently and tried a portable Jump Starter?

[blankslate]

I was driving long distances last weekend and took a nap in my car for a few hours sadly I forgot to turn the key to off and woke up with a partially but not completely drained battery

Enough to turn on lights and make the starter act like it wanted to turn the engine over but not near enough to start the vehicle.

Luckily I had a portable lithium powered portable jump starter,

similar to those in this link
https://www.lifewire.com/best-portable-jump-starters-4140286

the unlucky part is that it was in the trunk for a few months longer than the instructions recommended to spot charge it to maintain starting power.

I gave it a try and luckily it still charged just enough to start the engine.

Now I'm going to keep it charged more often.

I'd recommend carrying one

Prices range from 50+ to a few hundred depending on the cranking power you need. They often come with safeguards to minimize the risk of damage to electronics.

 

[dave_the_nerd]

Yup; I used to have one that I used a couple times. Probably should have one now, but don't.

 

[mindless1]

High price for the increased power density and weight ratio, they have their purpose but meh, I have jumper cables made back when they were all copper and such an event as described (rather than past due date battery that is dead as a doornail) only takes a minute to get enough juice in it, if the battery is the only problem.

The lesson there is don't let multiple things wrong pile up to the point where you're stuck and can't fix them all in one shot.

Extra money for safeguards though, I have no interest in. IMO if you can't hook a battery up you shouldn't be driving. That's what AAA is for and in this era of cellphones, weigh your risk against what area you're traveling in.

It could also be a matter of vehicle age, many now shut off their accessory power after a time limit and/or if battery voltage drops below a certain threshold.

 

[jlee]

High price for the increased power density and weight ratio, they have their purpose but meh, I have jumper cables made back when they were all copper and such an event as described (rather than past due date battery that is dead as a doornail) only takes a minute to get enough juice in it, if the battery is the only problem.

The lesson there is don't let multiple things wrong pile up to the point where you're stuck and can't fix them all in one shot.

Extra money for safeguards though, I have no interest in. IMO if you can't hook a battery up you shouldn't be driving. That's what AAA is for and in this era of cellphones, weigh your risk against what area you're traveling in.

It could also be a matter of vehicle age, many now shut off their accessory power after a time limit and/or if battery voltage drops below a certain threshold.

I generally prefer to use a jump pack when I'm jumping other people. Completely eliminates the risk of someone hooking something up backwards and frying my vehicle.

If you want to rely on other people and AAA to jump yourself if you ever have a problem, then sure..you do you.

 

[blankslate]

The lesson there is don't let multiple things wrong pile up to the point where you're stuck and can't fix them all in one shot.

Extra money for safeguards though, I have no interest in. IMO if you can't hook a battery up you shouldn't be driving. That's what AAA is for and in this era of cellphones, weigh your risk against what area you're traveling in.

I also have fairly high gauge quality old school jumper cables in my trunk.

At the time it was late at night and I had no real idea when someone would come along. So the portable Jump Starter was the better option for the time.

Sure the safeguards may be superfluous for many but they are probably a very inexpensive part of the device.

I'd rather have two options in stead of one... but maybe that's just me.


__________

 

[mindless1]

I generally prefer to use a jump pack when I'm jumping other people.

Which type though? I don't feel like risking a fire by leaving a Li-Ion based pack in a vehicle. If using jumper cables, they are my cables and I'm the one hooking it up.

 

[nakedfrog]

Yeah, my Miata has excess dark current battery drain, so I picked one up for convenience to start it up if it hadn't been driven for a couple weeks. Worked great for that. Fortunately now I have a garage so I can just leave it hooked to a battery tender.

Which type though? I don't feel like risking a fire by leaving a Li-Ion based pack in a vehicle. If using jumper cables, they are my cables and I'm the one hooking it up.

I don't think they're typically known for catching on fire when they're just lying there not powered on or connected to anything?

 

[mindless1]

^ So you're never going to have to charge it, connect it to anything, or leave it in hot or cold weather? The reward:risk ratio seems too low to me, especially if it's a dodgy Chinese generic, but if it's not then the capacity:dollar ratio is much lower than a SLA based jumper.

Last SLA jumper battery I bought was $37 delivered for 20Ah. That's the equivalent of around 22 good current rated 18650 cells, a capacity you won't find in decent Li-Ion jumper packs under $100... maybe $200, remembering that when they rate them for say 20000mAh (=20Ah), that's at 3.7V not 12.6V.

Granted that doesn't count the cost of the jumper box it went in but I'm negating that cost because unless you overload one somehow, the box itself will last for decades, but you don't necessarily even need the box, the battery alone plus jumper cables I have in vehicles would work.

Maybe I'd feel differently if I lived in some remote area and it was crucial to have a jump pack with me at all times, then go with Li-Ion and be bringing it indoors in a metal box any time I wasn't taking it with me, but even then I'd more likely just test and replace my vehicle battery sooner.

 

[BurnItDwn]

Ehh, If my battery is dead, I will jump it with the one in the Wife's car. If her battery dies, I will jump it with mine. If both die I will just ask my brother or uncle or cousin or mother in law or brother in law to stop by.

edit: I do want one though for "just in case" on road trips or if we park teh car for a week and go on a cruise or whatever or leave car parked at airport for a long time)

 

[jlee]

Which type though? I don't feel like risking a fire by leaving a Li-Ion based pack in a vehicle. If using jumper cables, they are my cables and I'm the one hooking it up.

I have a li-ion jump pack. It doesn't get all that hot here so I am not concerned about it exploding. Re: hooking up your own cables - if someone needed a jump and they insisted on being the one to hook up to my vehicle, they can find someone else to do it (or if I'm feeling particularly generous, I would watch like a hawk).

^ So you're never going to have to charge it, connect it to anything, or leave it in hot or cold weather? The reward:risk ratio seems too low to me, especially if it's a dodgy Chinese generic, but if it's not then the capacity:dollar ratio is much lower than a SLA based jumper.

Last SLA jumper battery I bought was $37 delivered for 20Ah. That's the equivalent of around 22 good current rated 18650 cells, a capacity you won't find in decent Li-Ion jumper packs under $100... maybe $200, remembering that when they rate them for say 20000mAh (=20Ah), that's at 3.7V not 12.6V.

Granted that doesn't count the cost of the jumper box it went in but I'm negating that cost because unless you overload one somehow, the box itself will last for decades, but you don't necessarily even need the box, the battery alone plus jumper cables I have in vehicles would work.

Maybe I'd feel differently if I lived in some remote area and it was crucial to have a jump pack with me at all times, then go with Li-Ion and be bringing it indoors in a metal box any time I wasn't taking it with me, but even then I'd more likely just test and replace my vehicle battery sooner.

Do you store your cell phone, camera, flashlight(s), and laptop in metal boxes too?

 

[mindless1]

I have a li-ion jump pack. It doesn't get all that hot here so I am not concerned about it exploding. Re: hooking up your own cables - if someone needed a jump and they insisted on being the one to hook up to my vehicle, they can find someone else to do it (or if I'm feeling particularly generous, I would watch like a hawk).



Do you store your cell phone, camera, flashlight(s), and laptop in metal boxes too?

Hot is only one factor. If a major brand with good quality control and testing can have failing batteries, certainly a fly by night company making jumper batteries can too. Trying to jump a car is about the worst stress possible on a battery, well that and aggressive use in R/C hobbies which historically has caused a few fires.

Cell phone is always nearby, odds are I'd catch that fire happening but as mentioned above I have more confidence in the quality control and testing of cell phones, plus a smaller battery is a smaller fire-starter, and my cellphone is Li-Ion powered out of necessity. No such necessity exists for a vehicle jump starter, where I may be trying to drive while a fire is spreading and smoking up the cabin.

All my Li-Ion powered flashlights are their own metal box. You got me on the camera but again, major brand device and OEM batteries, not left in extreme temperature, much smaller battery, I have smoke detectors nearby, and again it's out of necessity that it uses a Li-Ion battery. If I could buy a battery that wasn't Li-Ion for it that had twice the capacity at half the cost, I'd do that too!

Minimizing risk is still worthwhile even if you can't completely eliminate it.

 

[Gt403cyl]

I have a Noco GB40, I work as a part time mobile mechanic, you would be surprised how many times they come in handy...., the largest engine I’ve boosted was in a 2007 2500HD, a 6.0L. They claim that is the largest engine recommended for this model and well it just laughed at it...

On average I can get anywhere from 15-18 jump starts on a charge depending on the size of the vehicles and if I have to let it sit on the car to do diagnostics ect...

So yes I keep one with me but I also use it fairly often.

 

[ibex333]

Yeah I have the cheapo Gooloo one I bought off amazon. Works great. My car was dying all the time in the past due to a power leak, and this kept me going until I could afford to take it to a professional and get that fixed.

 

[_Rick_]

Got one of those, since the Lotus drains the battery after 4 weeks (lately less than 3) of no drives.
So whenever I park it, I am three rainy weekends away from having to jump start it.
Since it's in an underground parking, hooking up the small box to the battery is much better, than walking back home, and getting the other car, and messing with jumper cables.
I got mine off Amazon, and it starts the small 1.8 engine fine, if I can only get the clamps attached properly.

Occasionally getting a hickup in the ECU, upon jump starts, but that's on British engineering...

 

[Yeroon]

^ So you're never going to have to charge it, connect it to anything, or leave it in hot or cold weather? The reward:risk ratio seems too low to me, especially if it's a dodgy Chinese generic, but if it's not then the capacity:dollar ratio is much lower than a SLA based jumper.

Last SLA jumper battery I bought was $37 delivered for 20Ah. That's the equivalent of around 22 good current rated 18650 cells, a capacity you won't find in decent Li-Ion jumper packs under $100... maybe $200, remembering that when they rate them for say 20000mAh (=20Ah), that's at 3.7V not 12.6V.

Granted that doesn't count the cost of the jumper box it went in but I'm negating that cost because unless you overload one somehow, the box itself will last for decades, but you don't necessarily even need the box, the battery alone plus jumper cables I have in vehicles would work.

Maybe I'd feel differently if I lived in some remote area and it was crucial to have a jump pack with me at all times, then go with Li-Ion and be bringing it indoors in a metal box any time I wasn't taking it with me, but even then I'd more likely just test and replace my vehicle battery sooner.

You're taking a few liberties there.

Modern PCMs dont always agree with jump starting, even when hooked up right. I"d be extremely picky on who I assist with jumpers if i didn't drive easily repaired cheap vehicles.

Sure, an SLA may have a rated battery capacity, but they really dont like getting deep drained - something li-ions and li-poly batteries dont mind.
I've never seen a li-ion battery do anything worse than bulge, and that was an early flip phone batt about 15 years ago. I have seen at least 2 lead acid batteries explode. Yes, I know there are instances of li-ions causing fires. I'd trust a quality li-ion pack over a 37$ L-A booster.

With the low weight of a Li based booster pack with the stored energy vs a jumper set, I'd rather keep one of those handy vs jumpers. Heck, our tow truck sponsor swears by the little booster packs.

I do plan on adding one of these little booster packs to my tool kit by my spare tire, and charging it on occasion. Luckily, li-ions are happiest below full charge, so just checking in on it once and while should do as well.

https://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/how_to_prolong_lithium_based_batteries

 

[jlee]

Hot is only one factor. If a major brand with good quality control and testing can have failing batteries, certainly a fly by night company making jumper batteries can too. Trying to jump a car is about the worst stress possible on a battery, well that and aggressive use in R/C hobbies which historically has caused a few fires.

Cell phone is always nearby, odds are I'd catch that fire happening but as mentioned above I have more confidence in the quality control and testing of cell phones, plus a smaller battery is a smaller fire-starter, and my cellphone is Li-Ion powered out of necessity. No such necessity exists for a vehicle jump starter, where I may be trying to drive while a fire is spreading and smoking up the cabin.

All my Li-Ion powered flashlights are their own metal box. You got me on the camera but again, major brand device and OEM batteries, not left in extreme temperature, much smaller battery, I have smoke detectors nearby, and again it's out of necessity that it uses a Li-Ion battery. If I could buy a battery that wasn't Li-Ion for it that had twice the capacity at half the cost, I'd do that too!

Minimizing risk is still worthwhile even if you can't completely eliminate it.

There is a documented history of cell phones catching on fire. I am not aware of such a documented history for jump packs; perhaps I missed some national news headlines?

 

[killster1]

Yeah, my Miata has excess dark current battery drain, so I picked one up for convenience to start it up if it hadn't been driven for a couple weeks. Worked great for that. Fortunately now I have a garage so I can just leave it hooked to a battery tender.

I don't think they're typically known for catching on fire when they're just lying there not powered on or connected to anything?

if you leave a car for such a long time you should just disconnect the battery cables and then start it up once a month or charge the battery i guess. I have had jump packs work and have had them fail. The one and only time i got a uber was to jumpstart a 2016 accord with bad battery.. they said "just cancel the ride it will charge you 5 and i will jump ya"

 

[nakedfrog]

^ So you're never going to have to charge it, connect it to anything, or leave it in hot or cold weather? The reward:risk ratio seems too low to me, especially if it's a dodgy Chinese generic, but if it's not then the capacity:dollar ratio is much lower than a SLA based jumper.

Last SLA jumper battery I bought was $37 delivered for 20Ah. That's the equivalent of around 22 good current rated 18650 cells, a capacity you won't find in decent Li-Ion jumper packs under $100... maybe $200, remembering that when they rate them for say 20000mAh (=20Ah), that's at 3.7V not 12.6V.

Granted that doesn't count the cost of the jumper box it went in but I'm negating that cost because unless you overload one somehow, the box itself will last for decades, but you don't necessarily even need the box, the battery alone plus jumper cables I have in vehicles would work.

Maybe I'd feel differently if I lived in some remote area and it was crucial to have a jump pack with me at all times, then go with Li-Ion and be bringing it indoors in a metal box any time I wasn't taking it with me, but even then I'd more likely just test and replace my vehicle battery sooner.

I don't leave it in the car, and it's in the same area as I am when I do charge it.

if you leave a car for such a long time you should just disconnect the battery cables and then start it up once a month or charge the battery i guess. I have had jump packs work and have had them fail. The one and only time i got a uber was to jumpstart a 2016 accord with bad battery.. they said "just cancel the ride it will charge you 5 and i will jump ya"

I don't mind leaving it on a tender, and it leaves open the possibility to take it out on freakishly warm winter days like we're supposed to have this weekend. Yeah, I could disconnect the battery, but then I have to re-do all my stereo settings.

 

[thecoolnessrune]

I have a Noco, and it gets far more use jumping other people's cars than my own, but I was fortunate enough to use it once last year actually while on a trip about 300 miles away from home. Everything was shuttled from there, so when I came back to my car 4 days later, I realized that the overhead lights had been left on. Fortunately, the Noco started it up without any hesitation and I was on my way.

In these cold winters like I've had this week, I get far more use out of it jumping my friends and coworkers cars. This week alone I jumped 8 different vehicles because of the -60 windchill killing people's batteries. It's nice to have around.

Most of the time though I'll use it as a charge pack for random things. Works great as an all-day battery pack for charging things at the lake. Just don't get it wet!

 

[mindless1]

^ Wind chill will increase the rate at which the engine/oil/battery get down to the ambient temperature, but suppose we're talking about a vehicle sitting a whole job shift or overnight... long enough to completely cool down. Wind chill has no effect on batteries in that case.

It's important to keep that in mind because a flooded lead acid battery's resistance to freezing (as well as its CCA remaining) is impacted by the real temperature, and the state of charge. -60F will freeze most people's batteries if much less than fully charged, though a half charged battery will freeze closer to -25F and so on up the scale to the freezing point of water.

These numbers also depend on the specific chemistry in the battery. Some like Optima Yellow, have a significantly higher freezing point and even fully charged, might be damaged at -25F.

 

[shortylickens]

I been using the Jump N Carry 660 for years. Its powerful and simple.