Anyone familiar with plastic welding?

Red Squirrel

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I've been trying to adapt an IBC tote to a standard plumbing fitting so I can incorporate it into a water distribution system. Having a hell of a time finding the proper adapters and closest thing I found was this:





Unfortunately the threads don't quite match so can't get it in all the way for it to sit on the O ring so it leaks. So I'm thinking of just finding a way to weld these together so that they are basically one piece. Read up briefly on plastic soldering it it looks like you can basically just use a soldering iron or hot air rework station. Anyone ever try something like this and was it successful?
 

SamirD

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I'd just sand off the threads and then you should be able to thread it all the way in properly. Then I'd fill the gap with glue or epoxy and it should be pretty solid--although you'll never be able to change that seal again!
 

mindless1

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If the thread diameter difference is slight, you can probably get them jointed using epoxy, and pressure while it sets.

A heat gun for two parts with thin yet elaborate molding, seems like a very difficult thing to accomplish. I'd sooner try some solvent approach, with a filler plastic dissolved in it if the gaps are significant, though it may depend on how much pressure this has to withstand and if a fault later is a big problem or just a nuisance.
 
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Red Squirrel

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That does not even mention any of the sizes or thread style for the big side so it's a total gamble. Based on picture don't think those threads would fit at all.

This will also eventually be used for potable water so I'm not buying some random stuff off Amazon that could potentially have lead or non food safe compounds in it.

Before I start getting into modifying stuff though I will try a plumbing shop, maybe they'll be able to get me something that fits as they'll have more access to oddball parts.
 
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sdifox

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That does not even mention any of the sizes or thread style for the big side so it's a total gamble. Based on picture don't think those threads would fit at all.

This will also eventually be used for potable water so I'm not buying some random stuff off Amazon that could potentially have lead or non food safe compounds in it.

Before I start getting into modifying stuff though I will try a plumbing shop, maybe they'll be able to get me something that fits as they'll have more access to oddball parts.

So find your fitting type and spec it in your search...

 
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Red Squirrel

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So find your fitting type and spec it in your search...


Trust me I tried all of that. The two fittings I bought is the closest thing I could find otherwise I would not have bought them. I gambled on the threads fitting anyway even though one is NPT and other is NPS. (site says they should still fit when they are made of plastic) The issue is the 2nd one does not seem to come in NPS only in NPT.
 
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sdifox

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If they are pvc just apply liberal amount of pvc cement and hold it together tight for like a min and it will glue tight. Even if you miss a spot you can apply the glue from outside the joint to form seal.
I have done it for my pool filter and it is fine even at 20PSI.
 

mxnerd

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Maybe this? It says it's non hardening however, so don't know how well it will hold.


it's potable water safe

==

or JB WaterWeld, let it cure completely.

 
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Red Squirrel

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^ That plastic adapter would be a God send. That's exactly what I need. Just can't find anything like it anywhere here. They don't seem to sell anything past 3/4" as far as water supply lines go.

Checked a plumbing shop and they do have a 2" to 3/4" adapter but only comes in brass. Was over $40 so held off for now. At this point I spent more on trying different adapters than what the tanks themselves cost lol. I may end up going back if all my other options fail. He did suggest I might be able to get away just using pipe dope with the existing fittings I have though. I can't screw it in all the way so it does not make the seal, but the pipe dope might seal it. Did not get a chance to try yet. If that works I think I'll just end up doing that.

Either way I think I will look into learning plastic welding as I can see myself landing in situations like this often where I need oddball hard to find fittings. Even the ones I bought I spent tons of time and money searching for.
 

mindless1

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^ What if you threw on an o-ring to make up for the gap, if it's just a matter of not screwing down far enough? Wait, is the male piece's threaded portion too long and you could just grind/belt-sand/file/sharks-with-lasers/etc that down shorter?
 

Red Squirrel

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^ What if you threw on an o-ring to make up for the gap, if it's just a matter of not screwing down far enough? Wait, is the male piece's threaded portion too long and you could just grind/belt-sand/file/sharks-with-lasers/etc that down shorter?

Too much of a gap for an O ring. There is already a seal but I can't thread it enough to reach it and there's a good 1cm gap. It's not so much that the threads are too short to not screw enough but rather that it just stops prematurely due to the threads not quite matching. Otherwise it would press fit on the seal which is what it's suppose to do. These threads are not really designed to act as the seal.

I will try the pipe dope though, but I'm just not confident it will last long term but at this point it's worth a shot. Then I will try to thread it as far as I can. Once these are all setup I will want leak detection system throughout the building they are in anyway. If a leak is detected I could have it so the top vent shuts off. It would slow down the leak at least until I can make it out there to investigate.
 

Red Squirrel

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I have before, but there's still a risk of being hit with customs and of course there's also exchange rate.

That part is essentially what I already have except the thread is inside, that COULD work, because I found a 2" to 3/4" on Grainger's site but the thread is male when I need female, but with that part then I could use the one on Graigner's site to get to 3/4".
 

bbhaag

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Ok hear me out. Since you are having a hard time sourcing the fittings locally what if you were to have it shipped from Home Depot up to you? I found an ABS fitting that should work and ships from the store out of Sarnia.
I know that Oatey makes a cement that works when joining ABS to PVC. So all you would need it this fitting from Home Depot Canada. I don't know how much shipping would be because I don't know your zip code.....Do Canadians even have zip codes?? Serious question...but anyway

Check out the links and see if it would work for your application.


And then this fitting from a store more local to you.



And here is the cement that you would need.
 
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Red Squirrel

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Isn't ABS only really suited for waste waster? Or can it be used for potable? Those fittings could very well work and it's on the .ca site so I should be able to just order it.

But I may have been successful with pipe dope. It absolutely does not want to go any further but it seems to have helped lubricate the connection enough that I think I may have made contact with the seal, it's hard to tell for sure. If it's not in contact, it's damn close. Either way the pipe dope itself should have formed a good seal. I'm not sure if you need to let that stuff sit or not since it technically does not really dry, but no sense trying it now since it's wet outside anyway so on a dry day I will go hook it up and see if it leaks. (hard to tell if ground is already wet)

if it does leak, I think I will look at just applying silicone caulk at the seal as there may be a tiny gap and it should be able to fill it. Silicone caulk should be considered food safe right?
 

bbhaag

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A quick google search suggests that ABS is a food safe material but you might want to look further into it.

IMO never use silicone or any type of caulk to shore up a water leak. It shrinks to much over time and is just not an ideal solution.

EDIT: Not only is the Home Depot link .ca but the other two link are as well and I believe a lot more local to you to so shipping would not be a concern.
 
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mxnerd

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Agree that silicon caulk won't work.

==

Ever heard of high tech UV light Bondic plastic welding? But it's not cheap and don't know if it will work.
 

sdifox

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Agree that silicon caulk won't work.

==

Ever heard of high tech UV light Bondic plastic welding? But it's not cheap and don't know if it will work.
How are you going to uv cure the tread join?
 

bbhaag

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Agree that silicon caulk won't work.

==

Ever heard of high tech Bondic plastic welding? But it's not cheap and don't know if it will work.
Agreed but I don't know if the OP will actually listen/read the advice given to him or just trudge on with his own attempts.

I literally provided him with a viable solution that is not only local to him but cost effective.
 

mxnerd

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How are you going to uv cure the tread join?

He can only UV cure where light can reach, so that's the outside.

That's why I said I don't know. OP can watch some video on youtube and decide himself.
 

bbhaag

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Are you guys just being daft intentionally? Literally all he needs is some teflon tape and a little bit of abs/pvc cement and the proper fittings. Nothing expensive or high tech to do what he needs done.
 
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mxnerd

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Are you guys just being daft intentionally? Literally all he needs is some teflon tape and a little bit of abs/pvc cement and the proper fittings. Nothing expensive or high tech to do what he needs done.
Just trying to expand OP's knowledge. 😁
 

bbhaag

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Just trying to expand OP's knowledge. 😁
The videos you linked to provided all the knowledge the OP would need. Using your videos as a source I linked him to everything he would need and I did it using Canadian sources to make it easier for him to obtain the parts an materials needed. IMO he's being lazy and doesn't want to spend anymore money even if that means doing it the wrong way....like using silicone to stop leaks.