Anyone Dynamatted their doors before?

[MichaelD]

This January, I'll be getting some new components for my doors; MBQuart Reference or Premium, I haven't decided yet. There's about a $100 diff b/t the two.

Anyway, I will Dynamatting my front doors. I know it will make a big diff. I have some questions for those of you that've done it before.

1. You have to remove the stock plastic "water shield" from the door so the Dynamat can get a good hold; have you had probs with water leakage b/c you removed the plastic shield? I don't know how water proof Dynamat is.

2. After removing the stock plastic sheet from the door, did you "clean the metal" to remove any adhesive from the plastic sheet before applying the Dynamat?

3. Did you use a heat gun and/or roller to apply the Dynamat? I've read that these two things are very helpful. I own a heat gun, but would have to get a roller.


Thanks for your advice; the Dynamat will make a huge diff, I know.

 

[Viperoni]

I can tell you I've removed the water shields in 2 different cars (same model), no problems at all.

 

[z0mb13]

whats the purpose of this?

 

[MichaelD]

Originally posted by: Viperoni
I can tell you I've removed the water shields in 2 different cars (same model), no problems at all.

Ah, I was hoping you'd see this. A fellow Mobile Audio nut. :beer:

So, you had no water leakage or anytihng? Did you clean the metal first? Use a heat gun?

 

[Viperoni]

Originally posted by: MichaelD

Originally posted by: Viperoni
I can tell you I've removed the water shields in 2 different cars (same model), no problems at all.

Ah, I was hoping you'd see this. A fellow Mobile Audio nut. :beer:

So, you had no water leakage or anytihng? Did you clean the metal first? Use a heat gun?

:beer:

Like I said, I only removed the water shields, only because I had to access power window motors. I didn't put dynamat anywhere. I'm planning on putting some in my new Topaz, but that'll be next year.
I definetely plan on cleaning the metal down with rubbing alcohol, and I'll probably use a hairdryer and a roller just to be extra sure.

Also from what I've read, it's a good idea to do the outer door skin as well, since a lot of sound will hit that as well.

 

[MichaelD]

Originally posted by: Viperoni

Originally posted by: MichaelD

Originally posted by: Viperoni
I can tell you I've removed the water shields in 2 different cars (same model), no problems at all.

Ah, I was hoping you'd see this. A fellow Mobile Audio nut. :beer:

So, you had no water leakage or anytihng? Did you clean the metal first? Use a heat gun?

:beer:

Like I said, I only removed the water shields, only because I had to access power window motors. I didn't put dynamat anywhere. I'm planning on putting some in my new Topaz, but that'll be next year.
I definetely plan on cleaning the metal down with rubbing alcohol, and I'll probably use a hairdryer and a roller just to be extra sure.

Also from what I've read, it's a good idea to do the outer door skin as well, since a lot of sound will hit that as well.

Man, that would be a lot of Dynamat....and what a PITA!!! I"d have to take the window out. :Q I don't know about that....I've replaced a power window one time in my life...it wasn't pretty at ALL.

Doing the outer door skin makes perfect sense, though. Hmm. I may take the door panel off to see how much of a PITA it would be.

How do you use the heat gun? I mean...do you apply the Dynamat, heat it up and roll it with the roller, or some other way? Thanks, man.

 

In my old focus i used dynamat and fatmat (the same thing) on all four doors and the entire trunk. It was a huge PITA, took me a couple of days in the summer time in Ohio. It was around 80 in the shade when i did it (purposely didnt do it in the winter or spring). You will need to use a heater or really hot hair dryer along with rollers, gloves, extra gloves, razorblades, bandaids (that metal will slice you like its nothing). The plastic is easy to get off and water was never an issue in my focus. I noticed a big difference when i was done, good thing because it was expensive ( it does get pretty expensive for the trunk). You do not need to clean the metal, when you heat up the dynamat its like a gooey tape (hard to explain) that will stick to anything, even if its dirty. Dynamat is waterproof, think of it as a roof sealer.
IF you have any specific questions pm me. To save yourself some money, check out other brands. Dynamat is VERY expensive.

 

Originally posted by: MichaelD

Originally posted by: Viperoni

Originally posted by: MichaelD

Originally posted by: Viperoni
I can tell you I've removed the water shields in 2 different cars (same model), no problems at all.

Ah, I was hoping you'd see this. A fellow Mobile Audio nut. :beer:

So, you had no water leakage or anytihng? Did you clean the metal first? Use a heat gun?

:beer:

Like I said, I only removed the water shields, only because I had to access power window motors. I didn't put dynamat anywhere. I'm planning on putting some in my new Topaz, but that'll be next year.
I definetely plan on cleaning the metal down with rubbing alcohol, and I'll probably use a hairdryer and a roller just to be extra sure.

Also from what I've read, it's a good idea to do the outer door skin as well, since a lot of sound will hit that as well.

Man, that would be a lot of Dynamat....and what a PITA!!! I"d have to take the window out. :Q I don't know about that....I've replaced a power window one time in my life...it wasn't pretty at ALL.

Doing the outer door skin makes perfect sense, though. Hmm. I may take the door panel off to see how much of a PITA it would be.

How do you use the heat gun? I mean...do you apply the Dynamat, heat it up and roll it with the roller, or some other way? Thanks, man.

You would be best off doing one door at a time and take a couple of days. You use the heatgun while you are applying it, it will cool kind of quick depending on the outside temp. You can use make do rollers, i got a cheap alternative from a hardware store, getting airbubbles out and sealing the door is important.

 

[MichaelD]

Thanks Buck. That's exactly the kind of info I was looking for.

Other brands? Could you point me in the right direction, please?

ps
I know roofing paper/sealer well. It's permanent. I will be sure to wear old, disposable clothing when I do it!

 

[MikeMike]

why dynamat? that sh1t is EXPENSIVE.

go to Home Depot and buy peel n seal.

its asphault, so if that tells you how water proof it is..... it wont let water in.

atleast get the dust off for a good stick.

MIKE

 

[MichaelD]

Originally posted by: nourdmrolNMT1
why dynamat? that sh1t is EXPENSIVE.

go to Home Depot and buy peel n seal.

its asphault, so if that tells you how water proof it is..... it wont let water in.

atleast get the dust off for a good stick.

MIKE

Hmm, but would the peel'n'seal have the same sound deadening properties? That's the whole point of the exercise.

 

Originally posted by: MichaelD
Thanks Buck. That's exactly the kind of info I was looking for.

Other brands? Could you point me in the right direction, please?

ps
I know roofing paper/sealer well. It's permanent. I will be sure to wear old, disposable clothing when I do it!

You will save yourself pain by using gloves that will keep you from getting cut on that thin sharp metal.
forums that saved my ass more than a few times <-- thats a list of deadeners. Good luck and keep us posted .

 

Originally posted by: MichaelD

Originally posted by: nourdmrolNMT1
why dynamat? that sh1t is EXPENSIVE.

go to Home Depot and buy peel n seal.

its asphault, so if that tells you how water proof it is..... it wont let water in.

atleast get the dust off for a good stick.

MIKE

Hmm, but would the peel'n'seal have the same sound deadening properties? That's the whole point of the exercise.

Yes it works, it works well, its kind of ghetto to some but i tried a roll(along with other products) in my trunk and it did its job.
P&amp;S is your cheapest option. If you decide to do your trunk, P&amp;S is a great way to go to save mucho $$.

 

[Squisher]

Originally posted by: MichaelD

Originally posted by: nourdmrolNMT1
why dynamat? that sh1t is EXPENSIVE.

go to Home Depot and buy peel n seal.

its asphault, so if that tells you how water proof it is..... it wont let water in.

atleast get the dust off for a good stick.

MIKE

Hmm, but would the peel'n'seal have the same sound deadening properties? That's the whole point of the exercise.

Yes, it is also called Ice and Water Shield.

The problem with some of the alternative treatments is that some of them have a significant petroleum smell. If you can inspect the roll first for smell you'll be much happier.

 

[James3shin]

removing w. shield is no problem, you should be alright. as for the hot air gun, its not necessary but it is helpful, just peel and apply, its a real bitch to get off though later on if you need to fix something. good luck and enjoy the components :beer:

 

[MichaelD]

Buck, Squisher, James3shin,

Thanks A LOT. This info will save me a lot of headache and hopefully some $$$. I will take pics when the time comes.

I'll go to Home Depot tomorrow and look for that stuff.

 

[Jejunum]

I recommend fatmat or a similar such knockoff.

As good as dynomat extreme but wayyy cheaper.

 

[Yzzim]

I'm a bit skeptical about Dynamat. Does the stuff really work? Reading all the replies to this thread everyone seems to be a believer. Do you have to be a crazed audophile to hear the difference, or is it really that obvious?

MichaelD - you're just doing the doors? Why not the rest? More sound travel through the doors then anywhere else?

How much does Dynamat cost?

 

[Jejunum]

Originally posted by: Yzzim
I'm a bit skeptical about Dynamat. Does the stuff really work? Reading all the replies to this thread everyone seems to be a believer. Do you have to be a crazed audophile to hear the difference, or is it really that obvious?

MichaelD - you're just doing the doors? Why not the rest? More sound travel through the doors then anywhere else?

How much does Dynamat cost?

it really depends on a few things. Your ears and your goals.

If you want your sub to sound better dynamat your trunk and you will have more apparent volume and less rattling.

If you are already driving a fairly heavy car with good soundproofing (think lexus) it wont matter all that much. People do the doors (just like the trunk) to make their door mounted speakers sound better.

imho of course.

 

[MichaelD]

Originally posted by: Yzzim
I'm a bit skeptical about Dynamat. Does the stuff really work? Reading all the replies to this thread everyone seems to be a believer. Do you have to be a crazed audophile to hear the difference, or is it really that obvious?

MichaelD - you're just doing the doors? Why not the rest? More sound travel through the doors then anywhere else?

How much does Dynamat cost?

I only have one vehicle...I can't have it "down" (I.E. torn apart) for a week that it would take to do the entire truck. (I have a full size SUV).

Plus, taking my amp rack out of the back....wow...that would be an entire DAY right there.

I plan on redoing the entire system in the future...when I have money. Come Jan, I'll have enough $$$ for new components+Dynamat (or no-name equivalent). You've got to do what you can, when you can, you know?

In the future, I do plan on doing the entire truck...ALL of it. Roof and all. But hey, that's BIG $$$ and down the road apiece.

For now, the front doors will suffice.

 

[lokiju]

Dyn-O-mite!!!

 

I did forget to mention that the peal and seal stinks..... worse than the other products. It takes a while for most of the stink to get out. It smells like tar.

 

[MichaelD]

Originally posted by: buck
I did forget to mention that the peal and seal stinks..... worse than the other products. It takes a while for most of the stink to get out. It smells like tar.

Does it stink after or before you expose the sticky side?

IOW, can I unroll the stuff like two weeks in advance (leaving the sticky side covered) and let it air out? I have a garage...plenty of space for it to air out.

 

[Evadman]

I owuld not recomend installing dynomat yourself in the middle of winter. Install it on the hotetst day of the summer.

If you are going to do it in the winter, get a 60k btu kero heater and heat your garage to 110 degrees. Trust me.

 

[MichaelD]

Originally posted by: Evadman
I owuld not recomend installing dynomat yourself in the middle of winter. Install it on the hotetst day of the summer.

If you are going to do it in the winter, get a 60k btu kero heater and heat your garage to 110 degrees. Trust me.

Hey there. I have access to a large, heated garage. My garage at my apt is freezing cold, but at my buddies work, it's toasty warm.

Any word on if unrolling that stuff and letting it air out for a week or two will get rid of the stink?