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Anybody wanna troubleshoot a gas dryer????

redgtxdi

redgtxdi

Diamond Member
It's a basic Kenmore gas dryer (about 10 yrs old). Working fine, then all of a sudden it just quit heating today. Checked & played w/ everything. Unplugged/plugged (ya, it's gas, but tried anyway) but no use. Heat's done.

Here's the link for the heat portion of the dryer.......

Exploded view

So, I googled lots & am reading about ignitor, solenoid, but have no clue. Any suggestions??

P.S. Yes, turns on & spins fine, just no heat!
 
Originally posted by: nickbits
call someone. don't mess with gas unless you know what you're doing.
Click to expand...

Seconded.


You want to make sure that the unit will fire on demand and only on demand. If there is a gas build up before ignition, you can roast your whole place.

Get a certified tech visit for $100 to fix things.

Or take the unit to a certified shop for $50 labor & parts.

Or pay the $150-$200 for a new unit.

 
Check 42, 43, and 59.

Also, a blown 59 will prevent the dryer from even tumbling. A blown 42 and 43 atleast on an electric(which is what I got) will still tumble, just won't heat the element. Which since yours is gas, I would think that it'd have something to do with your gas, allowing it to turn on and ignite.
 

You haven't given us enougth information to even start diagnostic the dryer. Call a repair comany (license gas fitter, or license gas appliance repair/service cert), or fly me down from Canada ++ dinner & I'll fix it for you 😉
 
A very common issue with dryers is the thermal fuse. Do a continuity check on it. If it is open...replace it.
 
Only thing diagnostic I've done is to check it in the dark. (Yes, turns on & spins fine, just no heat!)

I used to always see a glow underneath in the dark, but there's nothing now. I can't say whether the glow was the ignitor or the gas burner itself, but regardless, no glow anymore.

And, yes, the sad part is that if even $100 to fix, it might just be worth buyin' a new one!! 🙁

Hopefully it can be salvaged. I fixed the washing machine a couple years ago and it's been great ever since.
 
Check the fuses, they are the easiest to troubleshoot. If one of them are blown, ebay was the cheapest place I've found for parts. should be about 10 dollars for 42 and 43, they should come together. and 5-7 dollars for 59.

Edit, after looking 42 and 43 are not sold together.
 
If the thermal fuse is bad, it will still run...you just wont get heat. It is a $5 part. I would start there...I've fixed 3 Kenmores in the past year with this problem.
 
I had an old gas dryer that also lost it's heat. The ignitor had gone bad. Cost me $75 for the parts and replacing it myself was pretty easy.
 
Thanks KK and dartworth.

I'm definitely gonna start there. After reading a bit on it, I wouldn't be surprised if that's it *and* it was a clogged dryer vent that caused the problem. I haven't pulled the dryer out from the wall in 10yrs so I wouldn't be surprised at all.

Good little read here on it......

http://www.davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYthermalfuses.htm

And here's the one for mine (looks like it's the newer "cutoff"/"cutout" style)....

Thermal Fuse
 
Originally posted by: redgtxdi
Thanks KK and dartworth.

I'm definitely gonna start there. After reading a bit on it, I wouldn't be surprised if that's it *and* it was a clogged dryer vent that caused the problem. I haven't pulled the dryer out from the wall in 10yrs so I wouldn't be surprised at all.

Good little read here on it......

http://www.davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYthermalfuses.htm

And here's the one for mine (looks like it's the newer "cutoff"/"cutout" style)....

Thermal Fuse
Click to expand...
It could be the thermal fuse (high limit) that failed, but it could also be the ignitor and/or radiant sensor.
 
Yeah I took my shop vac and ran it up the vent on the back of the dryer and cleaned everything real good when done...
 
Originally posted by: redgtxdi
Thanks KK and dartworth.

I'm definitely gonna start there. After reading a bit on it, I wouldn't be surprised if that's it *and* it was a clogged dryer vent that caused the problem. I haven't pulled the dryer out from the wall in 10yrs so I wouldn't be surprised at all.

Good little read here on it......

http://www.davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYthermalfuses.htm

And here's the one for mine (looks like it's the newer "cutoff"/"cutout" style)....

Thermal Fuse
Click to expand...

do ebay, I see they have that item for around 6 shipped. On my dryer, when my thermal fuse blew, I could swear that the dryer wouldn't even tumble. About 2 months ago I had my thermostat fuse blow. Forgetting the specifics of what happened when the thermal fuse blew, I assumed it was the thermal fuse, so I went to town and bought one. I got it home and realized that the thermal fuse was good since it was tumbling. it checked out, and I shorted the thermostat and the heater element came on. I used the thermal fuse I bought temporary until the thermostat arrived.

Now mine is electric so maybe the wiring is different.
 
Well if you don't have a meter to check the thermal fuse, just jumper the two wires together and start the dryer...
 
Originally posted by: KK
Originally posted by: redgtxdi
Thanks KK and dartworth.

I'm definitely gonna start there. After reading a bit on it, I wouldn't be surprised if that's it *and* it was a clogged dryer vent that caused the problem. I haven't pulled the dryer out from the wall in 10yrs so I wouldn't be surprised at all.

Good little read here on it......

http://www.davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYthermalfuses.htm

And here's the one for mine (looks like it's the newer "cutoff"/"cutout" style)....

Thermal Fuse
Click to expand...

do ebay, I see they have that item for around 6 shipped. On my dryer, when my thermal fuse blew, I could swear that the dryer wouldn't even tumble. About 2 months ago I had my thermostat fuse blow. Forgetting the specifics of what happened when the thermal fuse blew, I assumed it was the thermal fuse, so I went to town and bought one. I got it home and realized that the thermal fuse was good since it was tumbling. it checked out, and I shorted the thermostat and the heater element came on. I used the thermal fuse I bought temporary until the thermostat arrived.

Now mine is electric so maybe the wiring is different.
Click to expand...
Depends on the setup, some high limit is wired in series with the gas valve/ignition module & tumbler. And, on some setup the high limit is wired in series with gas valve/ignition module only.

The high limit is the culprit if the ignitor glow when you jump a wire across the high limit terminals.

 
Originally posted by: NoShangriLa
Here ya go!

Pilot ignition

Electronic ignition
Click to expand...

Excellent links!!

I'll definitely be able to identify parts tomorrow when I open it up!

The gas line and vent flex tube are extra long so I can pull it away from the wall w/o disconnecting anything. Should I still turn the gas off (and remove gas hose?) before pulling any of these parts?? (I think I could pull the thermal fuse & test it w/o this, though, no?)

 
Originally posted by: redgtxdi
Originally posted by: NoShangriLa
Here ya go!

Pilot ignition

Electronic ignition
Click to expand...

Excellent links!!

I'll definitely be able to identify parts tomorrow when I open it up!

The gas line and vent flex tube are extra long so I can pull it away from the wall w/o disconnecting anything. Should I still turn the gas off (and remove gas hose?) before pulling any of these parts?? (I think I could pull the thermal fuse & test it w/o this, though, no?)
Click to expand...
No you don't need to turn off the gas, but on a precaution side you might want to turn off the gas to the appliance (by code every appliance must have a shut off valve before the flex hose).


 
Sorry, yes, that's what I meant. There's a small turnoff right at the wall where the hose attaches. I'll turn that one off to be safe. (It'd be really great if it's just the thermal fuse)

And if I have to remove the hose in the end, I do remember about checking gas connections w/ a soapy water solution, just in case.
 
carbon monoxide is what is responsible for your dryers ability to dry clothes.
obviously your dryer is not producing enough carbon monoxide...
 
Originally posted by: sao123
carbon monoxide is what is responsible for your dryers ability to dry clothes.
obviously your dryer is not producing enough carbon monoxide...
Click to expand...
Right, right, and be sure to mix Clorox and ammonia to really clean the hell out of the clothes, and sterilize them too.
And everything else in the room.


 
Pics and video..........

KK was on the money!!! #59 'twas indeed!! 😀 (I'll pick up a new one tomorrow at the Sears parts place)

Online showed some good pics, but nobody showed how to remove the dryer lint chute, so just started unscrewing (really didn't wanna pull the top & drum). Quickly removed chute & voila.....fuse quickly exposed. Also cleaned the HELL out of everything w/ the shop vac. Even took a leaf blower & stuck it into the wall (vent to outside) and blew her out for all she's worth. Doesn't get much more "Uncle Eddie" than that!!

"Shitter was full!!" :beer:

Pics of whole dryer front and thermal fuse w/ wires bridged

Video of pyromania in action!!! :sun::evil:😎😛



"Honey......grab daddy a beer........it's quittin' time!!!"
 
:beer:

link I was curious about the schematics with yours being able to tumble with the blown thermal fuse. Seems on the gas models it supplies the voltage to the valves and ignitor where as on an electric it controls the drive motor. I'm not quite following how that fuse on an electric also plays into the heating element.

Also, that fuse is a common part used on more than just kenmore. You may be able to find it alittle cheaper at a another appliance store.
 
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