Anybody pack their own ammo and/or cast their own bullets?

[NetWareHead]

Anybody here? Buddy of mine has standardized on 45 caliber pistol and he packs his own rounds. Buys the bullets though so no hot metal casting. According to him, he can make hundreds of bullets for only a few bucks which is far better that store bought ammo prices. Anybody else seeing savings like this?

 

[sourceninja]

I reload my ammunition. I buy the bullets and reuse shells (within reason obviously). Its not that expensive to get started and it saves money when you shoot as much as I do.

 

[Puppies04]

My brother and friend both reload their own rifle ammo, saves them money and they can guarantee the rounds are as identical as possible for accuracy purposes.

 

[KB]

Hundreds of bullets for a few bucks maybe pushing it. I reload using my buddys press and was last making 9mm rounds for about 12 cents a round Commercial 9mm rounds are roughly 20 cents a round. I was fortunate in that I could use his press as it cost him $200 for the 9mm dies and $400 for the press. If you include startup costs reloading is less cost effective.

 

[sourceninja]

Hundreds of bullets for a few bucks maybe pushing it. I reload using my buddys press and was last making 9mm rounds for about 12 cents a round Commercial 9mm rounds are roughly 20 cents a round. I was fortunate in that I could use his press as it cost him $200 for the 9mm dies and $400 for the press. If you include startup costs reloading is less cost effective.

In the short term. I bought my reloading gear 5 years ago. I shoot once a week and probably at least 300 rounds each time. I reload probably 75% of my ammo. That's 15k rounds a year fired and 11k rounds reloaded. (My god, I can't believe I shoot this much). So at $0.12 a round it will cost me $1300 a year for the ammo I reload and $800 a year for the ammo I buy new. (Using your prices and assuming I was shooting only 9mm). If I was to buy all new it would cost me $3000 a year to shoot. That is a $900 savings per year. If the cost of the reloading equipment was $600, I saved $300 the first year, then $900 a year after that. If you had a few friends to split the cost and help collect brass you could easily save even more.

This is similar to the argument I used with my wife for dropping cable and buying a small pc for entertainment on our tv. Sure it was more expensive up front, but after a year we made back all that money in savings, 3 years later we have had a significant savings.

 

[schneiderguy]

I load .38spl for about 10 cents per round.

148gr cast wadcutter from Missouri Bullet = $32/500 = 6 cents each
~3.5gr HP-38 at $20/lb = 1 cent per round
Small pistol primer = $25/1000 = 2.5 cents each

I'm in an apartment so space is limited. I use a Lee hand press. It's a little slow but it works.

Total startup costs were about $100 IIRC. The cheapest loaded .38 I can usually find is at least $15 per box of 50. I am saving at least $10 per 50 shots, so my reloading equipment paid for itself after 500 rounds.

The nice thing about reloading .38, besides that it is very cheap, is that brass lasts forever and revolvers have a built in brass catcher

I've never cast my own bullets. My Grandpa used to but he sold his equipment a few years ago. If you can get a free source of lead, you're near .22lr price levels.

 

[sourceninja]

I can't bring myself to reload my brass more 3-4 times. I keep my ammo sorted by how many times it's been reloaded. I'm just not comfortable enough to keep reloading it (which is why I collect brass from my friends and buy new ammo (and sometimes brass) now and then).

 

[schneiderguy]

I can't bring myself to reload my brass more 3-4 times. I keep my ammo sorted by how many times it's been reloaded. I'm just not comfortable enough to keep reloading it (which is why I collect brass from my friends and buy new ammo (and sometimes brass) now and then).

What caliber?

In a low pressure caliber like .38spl or .45acp you should be able to use the brass at least 10 times.

 

[Train]

Friend of mine shoots his 45 a lot. Loads his own to save money. Was going great until he double loaded one. Messed up his hand pretty bad when he shot it.

 

[etrigan420]

I reload 9mm and .223.

I don't find myself saving a lot of money, I just shoot more...and I'm okay with that.

Before the current scare, IIRC I was reloading .223 for around $0.22/rd. with re-used cases. I imagine that will go up a little bit, even after the current madness has subsided.

I enjoy the process as much as the end result.

 

[sourceninja]

What caliber?

In a low pressure caliber like .38spl or .45acp you should be able to use the brass at least 10 times.

Mostly small calibers, 9mm and .38. I don't reload .357 (I typically shoot .38 out of my 357, so I just buy a box when I want the extra 'umph') and I don't reload the .380 (just seems like a pain the ass). I also reload .223 (although not a lot of it as it is also a PITA). Want to get a .45 die so I can start shooting my 1911 more often, but most of my range time is with my .22, my carry (walther PPS), my wife's .380, and my XDM 9mm.

I honestly just don't have a lot of experienced guys to help me learn more about reloading to feel confident in knowing 'everything is just fine'. Although I've read plenty about guys who just reload until they get a failure.

 

[adairusmc]

I reload a lot, for every caliber I own that isn't rimfire.

I have the stuff to cast my own bullets, but I typically do not. For my cheapest shooting (9mm typically), I get oregon trail laser cast lead bullets. I live about 40 miles from their factory and work down there once a week or so, so when I need bullets I can buy them direct and save 20% over the store prices.

I have been tinkering with loading for my .45's lately, trying to find a load that works well in all of them, instead of just standardizing on my 1911 like I used to. I am using Rainier plated bullets for that, since its really not a good idea to use lead bullets in a polygonial rifled barrel, like my HK and my Glock .45's have.

I have gotten 9mm lead bullets using titegroup powder down to about 8 cents a round, with the last big batch I made. plated 9mm worked out to about 10 cents a round when buying everything in bulk.

I am fortunate for not having to buy any primers though. Before my grandfather passed away, he stockpiled over a half million primers which I got and rolled into my reloading stockpile, so I am good for a very long time (except for large pistol magnum primers, dont have too many of those).

 

[clamum]

I really need to get a press and start reloading. I'd like to start with 9mm and .223.

 

[adairusmc]

Mostly small calibers, 9mm and .38. I don't reload .357 (I typically shoot .38 out of my 357, so I just buy a box when I want the extra 'umph') and I don't reload the .380 (just seems like a pain the ass). I also reload .223 (although not a lot of it as it is also a PITA). Want to get a .45 die so I can start shooting my 1911 more often, but most of my range time is with my .22, my carry (walther PPS), my wife's .380, and my XDM 9mm.

I honestly just don't have a lot of experienced guys to help me learn more about reloading to feel confident in knowing 'everything is just fine'. Although I've read plenty about guys who just reload until they get a failure.

I get about 20 loadings or more out of once fired .38 special brass, but my preferred loads are extremely light - but accurate.

9mm I get at least 10, but I just load until I notice the case mouth cracking when I bell the case, then it gets discarded.

.357 cases, if I load them to full power (which I usually do, no sense in loading .357 light when you can just shoot .38).

I also find I get better results using small rifle primers in .38 special and .357 magnum, at least out of my pistols. Nice that it works so well too, I have a whole lot more rifle primers than I do pistol primers.

 

[schneiderguy]

Friend of mine shoots his 45 a lot. Loads his own to save money. Was going great until he double loaded one. Messed up his hand pretty bad when he shot it.

Was he using a progressive press? Most of the kaboom stories I hear are from people using those.

Here's my process for avoiding double charges/no charges:

1. Bell case mouths, place cases mouth down in loading block.
2. Pick up one case, charge, place mouth up in different loading block. Repeat until all cases are mouth up.
3. Shine flashlight in cases to verify there is the correct amount of powder in them.
4. Press bullets into the charged cases.

It would be very difficult to get a squib/double charge with this method.

 

[Charlie98]

I reload a lot, for every caliber I own that isn't rimfire.

Ditto. I've been reloading since 1985, some of the rounds I load for I couldn't afford to shoot without reloading (.348WCF and .41MAG for instance.)

The cost of reloading depends on the components you are using... lead bullets are less expensive than jacketed bullets, for example.

Straight-walled pistol rounds, unless you are punishing them with max charges, will last 10-15-20 loadings. Inspecting your brass before loading is key, discarding any that are remotely questionable.

Rifle rounds are a bit different. My 30-30 cases are going strong after 8 or 9 loadings, but I discard my 7.62mm brass fired through my M1a after 4... it just depends on the round/load/weapon combination.

The other cost of reloading is the Cost of Admission... typical reloading kit can cost upwards of $500 before you even pull the handle for the first time... and because of the Chicken Little Syndrome lately, you may have a struggle finding components like bullets and primers.

Also understand the other cost... time. It's far easier to buy a box of 9mm for $12 rather than standing in front of the press cranking out 500rds of 9mm, after having gone to the store(s) to get your components. I quit reloading 5.56mm back in the '90's because surplus was so cheap compared to what it cost me in time to reload them, although that has changed lately.

 

[Lemon law]

(1) If you want a source of cheap lead for casting bullets, talk to your local tire store, as the lead in usual used wheel weights will work for casting bullets. But still remember, that lead will have to be jacketed, once to muzzle velocity gets past about 1500 feet per second.

(2) Cartridge brass can and will work harden, but its no real problem if you anneal the brass. Which removes the work hardening.

(3) One reason I like hand loading a high powered magnum rifle, is that it gives me control. On one hand I can safely brew up better ammunition with better than factory ballistics, it may kick like a mule, but often that is what is needed in long range hunting.
But if I am doing nothing but punching holes in paper in some shooting range, I can download the cartridge to much lower muzzle velocities, and lose much of the kick in the process. Which makes shooting multiple rounds much less punishing and more enjoyable. And its the same with light weight shotguns and pistols. You don't need penetrating power to punch a hole in a piece of paper and no living thing dies when I murder a clay pigeon.

 

[Train]

Was he using a progressive press? Most of the kaboom stories I hear are from people using those.

I have no idea. I'd like to think that if I ever got into it myself, I would set up a process that makes it impossible to do something like that.

 

[gorobei]

you can reload .38 spl dozens of time due to low pressure, no need for head spacing(revolver cases use the rim), and the chamber being 100% supported.

any cartridge with higher pressure specs that space on the head/mouth will have a shorter lifespan(fewer reloads possible). every time you fire you are squishing the metal against the chamber/barrel, making the case wall thinner and pushing the excess towards the case mouth. that's why you occasionally have to trim and deburr the mouth to get the OAL back down to spec.

i hadn't heard of anyone annealing brass before, but while it will help avoid cracking i don't know if it will do anything about the gradual thinning of the case wall. either way you should be inspecting each round before reloading.

 

[Kelvrick]

I have no idea. I'd like to think that if I ever got into it myself, I would set up a process that makes it impossible to do something like that.

Only way is to weigh each cartridge to ensure consistency.

 

[Train]

Only way is to weigh each cartridge to ensure consistency.

Ya thats what I was thinking as a last QA step.

 

[adairusmc]

I loaded up a batch of my favorite .308 load of all this evening.

I developed this load a few years ago for hunting elk, and they have been the most accurate, long range, and deadly load I have made for all of my .308's yet. So far I have taken 3 bulls with the original batch, from 400 yards on the first and longest shot to 100 yards on this last seasons bull - all one shot kills.

The recipe is -

Winchester Large Rifle Magnum primer
Commercial .308 brass
180g Barnes Tipped Triple Shock X-Bullet
43.6g of BLC(2) powder
2.810" OAL

I have shot quite a few of the original batch so its time to replenish. I let the brass get shined up in the tumbler for a good 4 hours today, so it came out looking new. I then lubed and resized each of the cases, and proceed to trim those that needed to be trimmed. After that, I chamfed/deburred all 50 case mouths, and got new primers in all of them. The whole process maybe took 20 minutes.

The next part was time consuiming, because for these loads I hand weigh each powder charge and check cartridge length on all of them. It took about an hour for me to hand weigh all 50 of the 43.6g powder charges, and get the bullets seated. With this load I do not use a crimp.

I have an RCBS chargemaster powder dispenser/scale combo but I have it filled with win231 powder for loading .45 ACP, otherwise I would have just used that to weigh and dispense the powder charge.

After all is said and done I put the rounds back in the tumbler and get it get shined up again for about 20 minutes. This gets the case lube from resizing off of the cases, much better and more thorough than wiping each and every one.

Since I used once fired commercial brass, I am not going to count the cost of the brass in this figure, but I estimate the cost per round of these to be about 98 cents a round. The closest factory offering I could find to these are barnes loads using a lighter 168g version of the same bullet, and while they are out of stock the listed price is at $2.05 a round - http://www.midwayusa.com/product/26...-shock-x-bullet-boat-tail-lead-free-box-of-20

Not too bad for getting better quality ammo that I worked up myself for less than half the cost of factory ammo.

Anyway, here are some pics of tonight's batch -

It really is fairly easy once you get into a rhythm

 

[rommelrommel]

I have no idea. I'd like to think that if I ever got into it myself, I would set up a process that makes it impossible to do something like that.

Another easy way (but doesn't work for all cartridges) is to pick a powder that is bulky enough so you cannot double charge.

Of course, this doesn't account for the dumbass factor of possibly using the wrong powder or something, but if you're going to do something like that you had it coming.

The gunsmith I use actually received a 45/110 Sharps replica (forget which one) in that the owner had mistakenly loaded with pistol powder (forget which, something fast burning) instead of the proper powder. The action was completely locked up, and when it finally opened after exerting much force, the chamber and brass had stretched out to almost 50 cal at the base.

 

[gorobei]

I have no idea. I'd like to think that if I ever got into it myself, I would set up a process that makes it impossible to do something like that.

most of the setups im seeing on youtube and other forums show people putting flex cable led lights by the bullet seat station so they can visually inspect the case for the right powder level.
you can get some specialized dies with a plunger that goes into the case to measure the level and gives either a visual indication of powder level or rings an alarm, kinda gimmicky but if you are paranoid about it there are options.