Any idea how to reach spark plugs on the Third generation Chrysler Town and Country?

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by alfa147x, Dec 30, 2007.

  1. alfa147x

    alfa147x Lifer

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    I dont understand how to change the back spark plugs on our 97 Chrysler Town and Country we have never changed the back plugs because we cant reach them.

    thanks!

    Edit:

    We did have dealer change them for 140$ about 14 months ago !!!!!!!

    just pisses me off :|
     
  2. Pacfanweb

    Pacfanweb Lifer

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    Some cars are just hard to change plugs on. You should have tried the plugs on an old Thunderbird Super Coupe. Seems like it paid about 3.5hrs to do plugs on those.
    Only could be changed from underneath, and even then it was a complete bitch.
     
  3. alfa147x

    alfa147x Lifer

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    The repair manual thing says something about dropping the engine ... Pisses me off nice and deep
     
  4. Demon-Xanth

    Demon-Xanth Lifer

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    On my Grand Prix, the easy way was to unbolt the front dog bone engine mounts and let the engine rock forward. It might be something like that.
     
  5. Vette73

    Vette73 Lifer

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    What motor do you have? I think there were 3 or so options.
     
  6. alfa147x

    alfa147x Lifer

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    We have the front wheel drive 3.8 L EGH V6
     
  7. zixxer

    zixxer Diamond Member

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    My 4 cyl ranger has dual plugs - the drivers-side rear plugs are such a PITA to get to that I'll probably have the dealer do it next time. IIRC you are technically supposed to remove the intake manifold but I was able to wiggle my way around and get them out... bleh..
     
  8. CADsortaGUY

    CADsortaGUY Lifer

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    I had the same issue with mine(98 T&C) -the plugs are near impossible to get to. Here is how I got to mine.

    From memory but I used a Haynes manual

    *disconnect battery ;)
    *Remove wipers (yes do this)
    *remove plastic cover (where the wipers are - be careful not to damage washer spray hose when taking this off - I broke a hose)
    *unbolt "tub" that holds the wiper mechanism
    *disconnect throttle cables, air intake hose, and a the misc vac hoses on the intake plenum
    *unbolt UPPER intake plenum and remove plenum.

    *edit - There is an EGR connection on the intake somewhere - you have to unbolt that too but I can't remember exactly what piece of the intake it was connected to. So basically - don't do this when your engine is still hot ;)

    you should be able to get to the plugs. Be sure to get a new upper intake gasket - don't put the old one back on - they're cheap anyway.
     
  9. Tiamat

    Tiamat Lifer

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    my dad has a 96 T&C and its too much of a pita. He just pays the 150$ it costs to get it changed at the dealer.
     
  10. alfa147x

    alfa147x Lifer

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    Sweet Ill try that out in a few!


    We just got quoted 285$ we dont drive that car all to much so I rather take the ass kicking and do it my self
     
  11. Mermaidman

    Mermaidman Diamond Member

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    Heh, I just paid $130 to have the garage change the back four plugs of an Olds Aurora. I took one look at the motor, a longer look at the service manual, and said 'no way.'
     
  12. CADsortaGUY

    CADsortaGUY Lifer

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    If you do this you really should have the manual. It's only like $15 or something like that. it'll take you through it step by step. So it'll only cost you about $20 with the upper intake gasket kit(should get the EGR gasket too).
     
  13. danzigrules

    danzigrules Golden Member

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    The easiest way is from underneath, but most people don't have the luxury of a lift in there garage like I do.

    They way CADsortaGUY said will also work, and the egr connection should be on the bottom right side of the butterfly housing on the intake. When looking at it from the driver side fender.
     
  14. CADsortaGUY

    CADsortaGUY Lifer

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    Yeah, you can probably reach from underneath if you have a lift or have really long arms. :p I tried from the bottom side but couldn't get enough leverage to pull the old wires off the plugs since they'd been on so long.
     
  15. mike2fix

    mike2fix Diamond Member

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    AllData for 97 T & C 3.8


    SPARK PLUG #3 AND #5

    REMOVAL


    Remove the resonator.
    Remove intake strut to cylinder head bolt at cylinder head.
    Loosen bolt for intake strut at intake.
    Swing strut away.
    Grasp the spark plug boot/shield assembly as close as possible to the spark plug. Twist the boot/ shield assembly slightly to break the seal with the plug and pull straight out, Do not use pliers, pull on the ignition cable, or pull the spark plug boot at an angle. This could damage the spark plug insulator, terminal, heat shield or the insulation. Wipe spark plug insulator clean with a dry cloth before installation.
    Remove spark plug INSTALLATION
    Install spark plug and tighten to 28 Nm (20 ft lb) .
    When installing the spark plug cables, make sure spark plug insulator and terminals are fully seated.
    A click sound should be heard or felt when the terminals are properly attached.
    Install the cable into the retaining bracket.
    Make sure that they are also attached to the rear retaining clip mounted on the rear of the intake manifold.
    Swing strut back into place.
    Install intake strut bolt to cylinder head at cylinder head.
    Tighten bolt to intake strut at intake.
    Tighten bolt at cylinder head.
    Install the resonator.


    SPARK PLUG #1

    REMOVAL


    Remove the accessory drive belt, refer to Cooling System.
    Remove the 4 bolts from the upper half of the generator bracket.
    Push the Generator rearward.
    Grasp the spark plug boot/shield assembly as close as possible to the spark plug. Twist the boot/ shield assembly slightly to break its seal with the plug and pull straight out. Do not use pliers, pull on the ignition cable, or pull the spark plug boot at an angle. This could damage the spark plug insulator, terminal, or the insulation. Wipe spark plug insulator clean with a dry cloth before installation.
    Remove spark plug INSTALLATION
    Install spark plug and tighten to 28 Nm (20 ft lb) .
    When installing the spark plug cables, make sure the coil or spark plug insulator and terminals are fully seated.
    A click sound should be heard or felt when the terminals are properly attached.
    Pull Generator back into place.
    Install upper Generator bracket with the 4 bolts.
    Install the accessory drive belt, refer to Cooling System.

    OTHER PLUGS

    REMOVAL


    Spray compressed air around spark plug to prevent foreign material from entering combustion chamber.
    Remove spark plug wire by grasping boot and turning 1/2 turn while pulling boot back in a steady motion.
    Remove spark plug using socket with foam insert. INSPECT FOR:
    Color of Deposits
    Excessive Deposits
    Electrode wear
    Cracked or Damaged Threads Or Insulator
    Worn or Bent Electrodes
    Damaged Gasket
    INSTALLATION


    Start plug in cylinder head by hand, to prevent cross threading. CAUTION: Do not overtighten plugs, overtightening can distort plugs resulting in a changed gap.
    Torque spark plugs to 20 ft-lbs (28 Nm) .
    Install secondary ignition cables on spark plugs, (be sure connectors are pushed onto plug completely).
    CAUTION: When replacing spark plugs because of a high speed miss condition; wide open throttle operation should be avoided for approximately 80 km (50 miles) after installation of new plugs. this will allow deposit shifting in the combustion chamber to take place gradually and avoid plug destroying splash fouling shortly after the plug change.

     
  16. desy

    desy Diamond Member

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    14 months ago and you drove enough to change them again?
    Just how many miles have you put on, I don't change plugs for about 60K miles