Android TV's

[MtnMan]

I feel like a beta tester with Android TV. Last night the frustration level reached the point I logged into Amazon and ordered a 4K Fire TV stick.
On Android TV, Netflix and Amazon Prime work reasonably well. The other apps we use, not so much. Hulu.. Start a movie/show, and get audio but no video for 30 - 40 seconds. Seen this behavior on CBS all access also.
Acorn, pixilated video, and double audio with a lag of half second or less, weird. Close a car door and it goes bang bang.
CBS All Access. On any given day, some things just will not play, yet others will. Next day shows that wouldn't play do play.
Audio/video out of sync on just about every streaming app. Sometimes pausing the show for 15 seconds, and it's back in sync. Sometimes have to back out further and resume the show to get it is sync.
While I was typing this, the wife paused her show on Amazon to go do something. Came back and hit play, and it went to the Hulu app.
I'm happy with the TV, a 65" HiSense, great picture... but I'm over Android TV it runs.

 

[killster1]

I feel like a beta tester with Android TV. Last night the frustration level reached the point I logged into Amazon and ordered a 4K Fire TV stick.
On Android TV, Netflix and Amazon Prime work reasonably well. The other apps we use, not so much. Hulu.. Start a movie/show, and get audio but no video for 30 - 40 seconds. Seen this behavior on CBS all access also.
Acorn, pixilated video, and double audio with a lag of half second or less, weird. Close a car door and it goes bang bang.
CBS All Access. On any given day, some things just will not play, yet others will. Next day shows that wouldn't play do play.
Audio/video out of sync on just about every streaming app. Sometimes pausing the show for 15 seconds, and it's back in sync. Sometimes have to back out further and resume the show to get it is sync.
While I was typing this, the wife paused her show on Amazon to go do something. Came back and hit play, and it went to the Hulu app.
I'm happy with the TV, a 65" HiSense, great picture... but I'm over Android TV it runs.

i have a few android tv boxes that are 4gb ram 16gb rom 8 core arm cpu boxes in use for 4 years straight with very minimal issues. Im on my 3rd mini keyboard but the android tv box has been fine. i dont understand why people buy cheap tv's and then try and use the android functions on it. Even on nice tv's android tv sux, they just pinch their pennies and cripple them usually.

 

[MtnMan]

i have a few android tv boxes that are 4gb ram 16gb rom 8 core arm cpu boxes in use for 4 years straight with very minimal issues. Im on my 3rd mini keyboard but the android tv box has been fine. i dont understand why people buy cheap tv's and then try and use the android functions on it. Even on nice tv's android tv sux, they just pinch their pennies and cripple them usually.

So how much do you pay for your "not cheap" 65" TV so you won't be accused of pinching pennies and crippling yourself?
I bought mine for its ability to display a quality image, which it is highly rated for the price range. Nor does life revolve around the TV, and for $40 I have a solution to the aggravation it presents.

Oh! wait... you stated you also have external boxes, and you also don't rely on what ever software is built into your "not cheap and crippling" TV.

 

[mindless1]

i dont understand why people buy cheap tv's and then try and use the android functions on it. Even on nice tv's android tv sux, they just pinch their pennies and cripple them usually.

Yeah but I don't want to use the android features on my TV. Never did. I just want it to turn on and use it on HDMI1 input, or have it turned off, and be able to turn it on normally because it's not crashed.

For now I'm disabling wifi to see if it makes a difference, though could be a month or more till it is demonstrating a clear increase in uptime.

 

[killster1]

Since my last post, I've only been turning the TV on to HDMI1 and off again.

Overnight, while soft-off, it switched itself to an Android TV screen and locked up again, had to pull the wall plug. Took a little over a month to happen this time.

Oh well i wasnt really refering to your #20 post in the thread i think you would be fine if you never used your android function and updated right? heh

So how much do you pay for your "not cheap" 65" TV so you won't be accused of pinching pennies and crippling yourself?
I bought mine for its ability to display a quality image, which it is highly rated for the price range. Nor does life revolve around the TV, and for $40 I have a solution to the aggravation it presents.

Oh! wait... you stated you also have external boxes, and you also don't rely on what ever software is built into your "not cheap and crippling" TV.

I dont understand the question. I mentioned even high end tv's have terrible android or OS's that are clitchy and starving for ram. ATM using a 2014 60" plasma hooked up to a windows 10, a nu8000 65" hooked up to a full desktop, a nvidia shield hooked up to a 42" tcl 4k the list goes on and on! but the moral of the story is NEVER USE YOUR STOCK OS ON YOUR TV!

Yeah but I don't want to use the android features on my TV. Never did. I just want it to turn on and use it on HDMI1 input, or have it turned off, and be able to turn it on normally because it's not crashed.

For now I'm disabling wifi to see if it makes a difference, though could be a month or more till it is demonstrating a clear increase in uptime.

yes defiantly don't give your tv internet, why would you need to disable wifi if you are not using it for the OS! Sounds super frustrating and a good reason to stay away from hisense (or using tv's OS!@hehe) My next tv should be a nu9000 82" or 75" anything with hdmi2.1 and 1440vrr (q80t?) just want to pay less then blackfriday of last year

 

[MrSquished]

NEVER USE YOUR STOCK OS ON YOUR TV!

disagree. I almost ordered the TOTL Roku the same time I ordered my TCL 6 series R635 TV but figured what the hell, let me see what the onboard Roku OS has to offer first. Glad I saved my money, the stock Roku OS on this TV is great.

 

[mindless1]

The thing about Android TVs is, it is "using" the OS even if you want no features from it besides taking an HDMI input and producing an image on screen from that.

Disturbing that I can turn it soft-off, from previously only using HDMI input since the last time I wall-power-cycled it, and it will crash in the middle of the night then won't turn on! Conclusion is that a power strip is the best way to turn it off, except then you have to wait for Android to boot.

 

[MtnMan]

Got the Amazon Fire TV Stick 4K yesterday and have set it up.

Huge difference in usability. Response to remote is so much better. We have several streaming services that were just balky to unusable through the Android TV built into my HiSense TV.

Gone are:

1. Virtually every streaming service: When first started, would stutter and/or pixelate, or no video for 30 - 40 seconds.
2. CBS All Access, now Paramount +; #1 plus some shows would not play on some days, others would play.
3. Hulu, #1 plus if paused to go get snack, walk the dog, go potty, etc., on resume video would not resume for 30 sec to a minute, while audio played.
4. The wife had several that just refused to play at times, doesn't seem to be a problem now.

For simplify and convenience we have Logitech remotes, which programmed through a computer app to control multiple devices. Works fine for Blue Ray, TV, Amp, and before cutting cord, cable or satellite box. But with no IR on Fire stick, had to use the Fire stick remote.

Now with the HiSense TV, an at least this Fire Stick, the TV remote and the LogiTech remotes will control the Fire Stick through HDMI.

 

[mindless1]

My TV has now been stable for a record # of hours, 900-some, and only then was down because of a power outage. Disabling wifi seems to have helped a LOT, but also I was using no android smart features, just HDMI1 input and occasionally HDMI2.

 

[mindless1]

Disabling wifi in addition to everything else android-related seems to have done the trick, I haven't had a single Android crash since June.

 

[mindless1]

Think my Hisense TV died today... only 17 months old, but past the 1 yr warranty. Oh well.

Went to turn it on, powered on to the Hisense logo screen instead of the HDMI input signal, stayed on that for about 8 seconds, and then shuts off.

Tried repeatedly including leaving unplugged for a while, most it ever did was barely show the android balls or whatever, for a fraction of a second like it was trying to boot but couldn't manage to.

Popped it open, saw nothing obvious wrong... wasn't even old enough to accumulate much dust yet, was hoping to find popped capacitors and replace them but nope - Think It's Dead.

Anyone know if there's a way to get into a service menu before android boots, in case some sort of reset might help? I saw some remote key sequence that includes an "info" button which isn't even on my remote, so apparently for a different Hisense model.

I found some new and used/pull mainboards for it (in this model, mainboard and PSU are AIO), but either route, the new costs more than half the total TV price and used pull, meh if my original only lasted 17 months, with nothing noteworthy happening to kill it, may be time to move on instead of bothering with it but just seems like such a terrible waste to throw a whole 17 month old TV away. Maybe it'll be a longer term project but need a replacement n o w.

 

[killster1]

Think my Hisense TV died today... only 17 months old, but past the 1 yr warranty. Oh well.

Went to turn it on, powered on to the Hisense logo screen instead of the HDMI input signal, stayed on that for about 8 seconds, and then shuts off.

Tried repeatedly including leaving unplugged for a while, most it ever did was barely show the android balls or whatever, for a fraction of a second like it was trying to boot but couldn't manage to.

Popped it open, saw nothing obvious wrong... wasn't even old enough to accumulate much dust yet, was hoping to find popped capacitors and replace them but nope - Think It's Dead.

Anyone know if there's a way to get into a service menu before android boots, in case some sort of reset might help? I saw some remote key sequence that includes an "info" button which isn't even on my remote, so apparently for a different Hisense model.

I found some new and used/pull mainboards for it (in this model, mainboard and PSU are AIO), but either route, the new costs more than half the total TV price and used pull, meh if my original only lasted 17 months, with nothing noteworthy happening to kill it, may be time to move on instead of bothering with it but just seems like such a terrible waste to throw a whole 17 month old TV away. Maybe it'll be a longer term project but need a replacement n o w.

How much was your TV new and size/ model? You left it unplugged for a hour? Try anything like Google says?



Method 1:

1. While your TV is powered on, unplug the power supply from it.
2. Wait for 10 minutes. Now, press the physical power button on your Hisense TV.
3. Hold the button for 60 seconds and meanwhile plug in the power cord.
4. Repeat this process again after a few minutes

 

[mindless1]

^ Thanks, I appreciate the reply.

It was only $200-something, 43" set for the bedroom. Heh, NOW it has 8 bad reviews on Hisense's site but back when purchased, only good reviews on Best Buy.

Product Support | 43" 4K UHD Hisense Android Smart TV (2020) (43H6570G)

Product Support | 43" Class- H65G Series, 43" 4K UHD Hisense Android Smart TV (2020) (43H6570G)

www.hisense-usa.com

I tried pulling the wall plug, waited far more than 10 minutes (day and a half counting today) to plug back in, a few times. Never held the button 60 seconds while plugging it in, can't imagine what use that would be if it was already off for long enough that it was already fully drained of power, but I did hold in the power button while plugging it in, up until the point where it shut itself back off, as well as some remote keys.

Ideally what I'd like to find is the remote keycode sequence to the service menu, seems to be something unique, not involving an info button since it doesn't have one.

I've already bought a replacement, Samsung this time. I'd love to get the Hisense working again but it was the most PITA TV I've ever owned, by far. Also shortest lived.

 

[killster1]

^ Thanks, I appreciate the reply.

It was only $200-something, 43" set for the bedroom. Heh, NOW it has 8 bad reviews on Hisense's site but back when purchased, only good reviews on Best Buy.

Product Support | 43" 4K UHD Hisense Android Smart TV (2020) (43H6570G)

Product Support | 43" Class- H65G Series, 43" 4K UHD Hisense Android Smart TV (2020) (43H6570G)

www.hisense-usa.com

I tried pulling the wall plug, waited far more than 10 minutes (day and a half counting today) to plug back in, a few times. Never held the button 60 seconds while plugging it in, can't imagine what use that would be if it was already off for long enough that it was already fully drained of power, but I did hold in the power button while plugging it in, up until the point where it shut itself back off, as well as some remote keys.

Ideally what I'd like to find is the remote keycode sequence to the service menu, seems to be something unique, not involving an info button since it doesn't have one.

I've already bought a replacement, Samsung this time. I'd love to get the Hisense working again but it was the most PITA TV I've ever owned, by far. Also shortest lived.

Feel like it's the same as pressing the power after you unplugged the psu fans spin for a half second as it discharged but prob woul have happened in that hour it was unplugged. I have had a few screens that would require unplug power press and replug to function, but not sure how long I could have left it unplugged to get it to work again

 

[mindless1]

I got that Hisense 43H6570G working again. Was waiting for someone else to solve this or get a hold of the firmware, because there wasn't any observable hardware fault, so I didn't throw it in the trash just yet, even though I'd bought a replacement TV.

Turns out it either ran out of memory or somehow corrupted the firmware.

I'd previously checked for firmware on Hisense's site but there was none listed/linked, even though the TV had pulled an update from them months before failure. A few days ago I checked again and they had the firmware linked!

I put it on a 4GB FAT32 formatted USB flash drive, plugged into TV, powered on with remote and held the remote power button in which starts the firmware flashing process.

That took a good 10 minutes of progress bars and at the end, a flicker of a message that it cleared some memory, too short a message display to read it all. It then rebooted and seemed to hang loading Android but I let it sit for a half hour and when I came back it had finished booting and now boots normally.

Whether it was the memory clearing or the firmware restored (same version it had updated to previously), the TV works again so I promptly disabled and removed apps, decided not to give it internet access, am just going to find some use for it as a dumb 4K monitor through HDMI.