Anandtech's November, 2007 Entry Level Buyer's Guide

hurtstotalktoyou

Platinum Member
Mar 24, 2005
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I'm a close follower of the entry-level market. This is mostly due to the fact that I'm so very, very poor. My main rig is powered by an Ultra V-Series 500W PSU I bought for $12 AR. The hard disks are ancient--a pair of three-year-old 80GB drives and an 8.4GB disk from 1999, for a total of 168.4 GB. I only have a single gigabyte of memory, and it's only rated for DDR2-675. My video card is a Biostar GeForce 6200 TC with only 64MB dedicated VRAM. At least my processor is fairly decent--a Core 2 Duo E6300 I bought last February, which is overclocked to a healthy 2.8 GHz. My bedroom rig, though, is hardly able to run modern software--an Athlon XP 1800+ @ 1.84GHz with a measly 256MB DDR memory and 32MB V3800 video card from the late '90s. Windows Vista is a distant dream for me, as are other commonplace-for-some luxuries like durable cases and wireless networking. At least I have high-speed internet, even though the bedroom computer relies on the other for it via a long and ugly yellow crossover cable. My parents are in an even worse situation. At least my Mom has an old hand-me-down Sempron 64 2800+ (s754 @ 2.32GHz) rig with 1GB DDR memory, 64MB GeForce4 MX and 40GB IDE hard disk, but my Dad has the worst of the worst: a Pentium II 400 MHz with 128MB SDRAM, 2MB video card and ~10GB hard drive, running Windows 98 First Edition! The two computers share a dial-up connection.

Hence my interest in entry-level components.

So I was very interested when Anandtech released another entry-level buyer's guide a few hours ago. Most components they selected elicited little or no surprise. The Samsung DVD and hard drives were fairly standard, even though reviews seem to indicate that Lite-on and Western Digital offer better choices for the entry-level prices. The E21x0 series was a no-brainer, as was the Brisbane X2 for AMD. The Logitech R-20 speakers look okay for what they are, and I'm mostly satisfied with the low-cost Microsoft wireless keyboard/mouse combo they suggested. I also agree that for $50 AR the 2GB (2x1GB) Crucial Ballistix kit is indeed a nice choice, even though something like 1GB (2x512MB) Wintec AMPX would be acceptable, and therefore slightly more appropriate for an entry level guide. The same goes for the Windows Vista Home Premium, which although is a good choice at its price point, isn't really "entry level."

I have absolutely no experience with LCD displays, and so I can't offer my thoughts on their Hanns-G HW-191DPB pick in that department.

However, I have some major problems with their suggestions regarding the case, power supply and motherboards on their entry-level guides. Let's take one at a time:

PSU
Having myself experienced the perils of low-grade PSUs (in the last two years, I've had two die completely and the fan on a third fail so that I didn't trust it enough to use), I'm shocked to see that Anandtech has for the second time in a row (cf. their last budget guide) suggested a bundled PSU. While the one they picked out is nice as far as bundled PSUs go, it's still apparently a no-name mystery box without any over-voltage protection. I admit it's distantly possible they actually tested samples, and through some strange fluke this particular bundled PSU is actually reliable--but, honestly, what are the odds of that? Yes, it is true that a standalone, reliable PSU is going to bump the cost of the system by $50 or more, but that's just the way the cookie crumbles. At least something like the Thermaltake PurePower is only $35 AR. Although not this exact moment, sometimes you can get Antec Earthwatts for about the same, from places like Fry's B&M. If *nothing* else, at least a low-power Fortron Source PSU might be acceptable ($31 shipped for 300W or $37 for 350W), considering we're talking about micro-ATX systems with integrated graphics and little or no overclocking. But a bundled generic PSU? Not in my rig!

Case
I've had very bad luck with cases, myself, and it's difficult to find informative reviews of entry-level models, so I was very much looking forward to reading what Anandtech had to suggest. They recommend the Athenatech A3602BB.400, which is just over $53 shipped from Newegg, but which they claim can be had for as little as $35. Personally, I think they've made a mistake on the price, and the *actual* cost is really the $53 I see on Newegg. However, even assuming it can be had somewhere for only $35, it's still an awful choice, judging from Newegg reviews. Those who purchased this case describe it as "flimsy," "thin" and "cheap," and caveats like "for the price" and "for a budget case" are tagged onto most of the otherwise positive comments. There are also warnings about sharp edges which can lacerate the hands of builders, something I have experienced myself and can assure anyone who has not yet done the same is worth a hefty price premium to avoid. Now, I understand the danger of trusting amateur reviews, but these allegations do not seem to be the sort of thing a person could get wrong. I mean, if the case is not sharp enough to cut a builder's hands, would someone really lie about it? And while one person's "flimsy" might be another's "sturdy," can it really be that so very many reviewers were so blatantly mistaken about it? It seems much more likely to me that Anandtech has simply made a *bad* suggestion. Like I said before, due to lack of first-hand experience I'm not sure what might be the *best* entry-level case, but I can darn well identify some better options than that God-awful Athenatech. Namely, I'm interested in learning more about the Foxconn TLM624-CN300C-01 ($55) and Foxconn TLM436-CN300C-01 ($55); they both look really nice, and if you resist the urge to use the generic PSU they include, should work well for any micro-ATX build. If not, though, there's always the Cooler Master Centurion 541 RC-541-SKN1 ($55 AR).

LGA775 motherboard
I'm sorry, but despite the claims of the author, you can get a reliable integrated Intel board for *much* less than $105 shipped, which is what it costs for their suggested Gigabyte GA-73UM-S2H. Admittedly, that looks like a great board, but is it really worth the money? I mean, for that price you could get a decent full-sized board *and* a dedicated video card! More realistic would be something from ASRock, which churns out low-cost but very reliable boards; the ConRoe1333-D667 R1.0 ($59), for example, looks pretty nice. Personally, though, I'd go for the Gigabyte GA-945GCMX-S2, which appears to offer both reliability and mild overclocking for only $59 shipped.

Socket AM2 motherboard
As with the Intel guide, the AMD guide also features a questionable motherboard. This time, though, instead of a too-expensive board, Anandtech offers one that's too cheap: the Foxconn A690GM2MA-8KRS2H ($56 AR). Now, I do admit I don't have any personal experience with Foxconn boards, but judging from the reports of others, I would certainly never trust one. With the A690GM2MA-8KRS2H, for example, out of 34 reviewers, at least three of them had to RMA it. Instead, I'd look again to something from Gigabyte or ASRock--either the GA-M61SME-S2 ($55) or ALIVENF6G-VSTA ($60).

So, now that we've explored my particular complaints, let's look back and see what we can do. I'm going to reproduce Anandtech's recommendations here with Newegg prices including shipping and rebates. Then we'll look at *my* recommendations. I'm going to leave out the peripherals (keyboard/mouse/speakers/monitor) and operating system, as they are not interdependent with the internal hardware.

Anandtech AMD:
$75 Athlon 64 X2 4200+ "Brisbane" (they actually suggested the 4000+, but that's out of stock at Newegg, and only $3 less anyway)
$56AR Foxconn A690GM2MA-8KRS2H
$50AR Crucial Ballistix 2GB (2x1GB) DDR2-800
$69 Samsung Spinpoint P Series SP2504C 250GB HDD
$31 Samsung 20X DVDRW/DL SH-S202G
$53 Athenatech A3602BB.400
TOTAL: $334 AR

Anandtech Intel:
$75 Pentium E2140
$105 Gigabyte GA-73UM-S2H
$50AR Crucial Ballistix 2GB (2x1GB) DDR2-800
$69 Samsung Spinpoint P Series SP2504C 250GB HDD
$31 Samsung 20X DVDRW/DL SH-S202G
$53 Athenatech A3602BB.400
TOTAL: $383 AR

Now, admittedly, those prices will be very tough to beat once we substitute a reliable PSU and decent case. We're going to have to make some sacrifices in the way of performance. However, I think I'd rather have a reliable system that's a little bit slower than a shaky system that's not much faster. Here are my suggestions:

My AMD:
$40 Sempron 64 LE-1100 "Sparta"
$55 Gigabyte GA-M61SME-S2
$41AR Corsair XMS2 2GB (2x1GB) DDR2-800 SDRAM
$56 Western Digital Caviar SE WD1600AAJS 160GB HDD
$28 Lite-on DH-20A3P-08 retail
$55 Foxconn TLM624-CN300C-01
$35AR Thermaltake PurePower W0100RU 500W PSU
TOTAL: $310 AR

You see, AMD's dual core isn't much less than Intel's, which means that if you're going to go dual core you should probably go Intel, since it's only a few dollars more for a significant performance boost. Meanwhile, the 45W "Sparta" is very low-power, which means you'll save on energy bills. I've also made a notable sacrifice with a 160GB hard disk instead of Anandtech's suggested 250GB. But remember, this is *entry level* we're talking about. The single-core Sparta is plenty powerful for most tasks, and can be overclocked a bit with the Gigabyte board. And we're still staying with 2GB RAM, thanks to Corsair's fantastic rebate deal.

My Intel:
$90 Pentium E2180
$59 Gigabyte GA-945GCMX-S2
$41AR Corsair XMS2 2GB (2x1GB) DDR2-800 SDRAM
$70 Western Digital Caviar SE16 WD2500AAKS 250GB HDD
$28 Lite-on DH-20A3P-08 retail
$55 Foxconn TLM624-CN300C-01
$35AR Thermaltake PurePower W0100RU 500W PSU
TOTAL: $378 AR

This isn't *really* entry-level, but it's a low-budget dual core system that I think is more reliable and which is quite clearly faster than Anandtech's recommendations, yet slightly cheaper nonetheless. For only $15 more than the E2140, we get the E2180, which is 25% faster by clock speed. The Western Digital Caviar SE16 is the same 250GB capacity as the Samsung, but I think it's probably slightly faster. The Lite-on drive is reliable, and includes Nero software in its retail box. Mostly, though, these are matters of personal preference, and don't matter much. The big issues, as mentioned above, are the cases, PSUs and motherboards.

Some final thoughts: I don't mean to sound like an ass, here. I am well aware of my limited experience, and I don't doubt that whoever authored the Anandtech guide probably blows me away when it comes to knowledge of PC components. So I know how presumptuous it seems for me to say that his (or their) suggestions are so bad, and mine are so much better. I want to make it clear that my suggestions are quite tentative. I'm really not too sure about those Gigabyte boards, for instance, or the Foxconn case, or even the Thermaltake PSU. I give them because, first of all, I'm genuinely interested in learning more about whether I have some good ideas (because I'm going to build a system for my Dad which will probably resemble the Intel system I suggested above), and secondly, it seems like I shouldn't just criticize Anandtech's offerings, but provide a specific set of alternatives. Yet, despite my limited experience, I'm almost *positive* that my suggestions would be much better choices than those found in Anandtech's article. All I can think is that maybe the author(s) rushed their entry-level guides, or that maybe they're so used to looking at higher-priced components they've forgotten where you can skimp and where you really shouldn't. Whatever the reason, though, I think my criticisms deserve to be heard. If I'm wrong, though, please go easy on me, and just explain how and why. I'll try to be receptive and open-minded.
 

hurtstotalktoyou

Platinum Member
Mar 24, 2005
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Just for snicks and giggles, as they say, I was curious what it would cost to add those components I neglected: peripherals and operating system.

Monitor
Despite Anandtech's Hanns-G HW-191DPB recommendation, I don't think a $194 monitor really captures the entry-level spirit. CRT monitors aren't much cheaper at Newegg, but at local B&M stores they're actually very cheap. Circuit City offers an HP MX705E 17" CRT monitor for $50 plus tax (which translates to about $53 where I live), and they'll even ship it out for free if you don't live near a store that's got one in stock. It comes with a pair of cheap speakers you'll probably never use. I'm not absolutely sure that it comes with the necessary cables, but if not you can get an ACM CSV-F10MM (male-male SVGA cable) for $12 shipped and/or a Kinemax CB-PWRC (AC power cable) for $8 shipped. So, assuming the worst--that the monitor does not include *either* of the required cables, and that your sales tax is as much as 11%--the total cost of this monitor will be $75. Ordinarily, though, I'd expect it to be about $53. Widescreen LCD displays sure are nice, but they're not really appropriate for entry level.

Keyboard and mouse
Generally speaking these should be purchased together, as a combo. Anandtech recommends the Microsoft Optical Desktop 1000 Wireless ($33), and I agree that for a wireless combo that is indeed the right choice. However, for entry level sometimes cutting costs is essential. Since wired devices are typically less hassle to install and also somewhat cheaper, it might be best to go for something like the Logitech 967973-0403 ($21). Both combos are great choices. You just need to ask yourself, is it worth $12 for wireless? If you need a mouse pad (for optical mice like these you probably won't) the Belkin F8E089-BLK is about as cheap as they come, for $10 shipped.

Speakers
This is a strange one. If you need loud speakers with decent sound, you can't really find anything for much less than $70 or so. The Creative Inspire T3100 2.1 speakers are $65, and have great reviews on Newegg. However, is $65 really workable for entry level? Ideally, I'd say you just need to get a cable adapter to hook up the PC to an existing entertainment system. RadioShack has the basic adapter cable for $8 plus tax, or about $9. It's only a 6' cable, though, so you may need an extension cord. RadioShack has a 20' extension cable for $9 plus tax, or about $10. So that's $9 if you have an entertainment system within reach of the 6' adapter, $19 if it's across the room (within reach of the 6' adapter with 20' extension cable), or $65 if you need to get new computer speakers which have a high volume threshold (the Creative Inspire T3100 2.1 set). Perhaps the best plan, though, is to actually buy a low-end shelf system. Best Buy offers the 30W Sony CMT-BX1 combo for only $93 plus tax, or about $101. Then just attach it to the PC via RadioShack's $9 adapter cable, for a total of about $110. If you just need something to let you hear basic sounds, the bundled speakers with the HP monitor should do fine. Anandtech recommended the Logitech R-20 2.1 set, but Newegg reviews are pretty darn negative on those, so I'd stay away from them. If you need speakers, don't have an existing and compatible entertainment system, but can't afford $65 for the Creative set, the Logitech X-140 2.0 speakers have pretty decent reviews yet cost only $34. I wouldn't expect them to deliver much volume, though.

Power strip
This component is often ignored, but the truth is almost any computer system is going to require a power strip to assemble. The monitor and PC itself both require grounded three-prong power outlets, and additional peripherals like speakers, printer and scanner will, given the standard dual wall outlet, require some kind of adapter--typically a power strip, to function. Also, the surge protection on power strips can save a PC's life during thunderstorms--or so I hear, anyway. Target has a Belkin in-wall 6-outlet surge protector for $8 plus tax, or about $9. Or, for $10 plus tax (about $11), you can get a pair of Belkin 6-outlet off-wall surge protectors. Either choice should do fine for a PC.

Printer
A PC is often considered incomplete without a printer. The cheapest printers are usually available online--but be careful! Sometimes what appears to be the cheapest is actually none such, thanks to the inclusion or exclusion of essential accessories, namely ink cartridges. For example, on Newegg the cheapest printer does not include a black cartridge--which means that once you factor in the price of that cartridge it's not the cheapest after all. In my opinion, the best entry-level printer available right now is the HP Deskjet D2460 CB611A, $59 shipped from Newegg, and including both black and color ink cartridges. You will need a USB cable, though; you can get a Sysonic UAB6 GWT 6' USB cable for $7 shipped. You'll also need some paper; Target has a 400-pack of HP ink jet printer paper for about $7 when tax is added. So that's about $73 total for the printer, cable and paper.

Operating system
Almost without question, Windows Vista 32-bit OEM is the best choice for entry-level and budget systems. The only question is, do you need Home Basic or Home Premium? Only each user can answer this question. Generally, most home users won't need or indeed even use the features available on Premium but not on Basic. So that means the cheaper Home Basic is best for budget-sensitive users. On the other hand, since Home Premium ($117) is only $17 more than Home Basic ($100), it is a viable option even given a tight budget. If one *does* choose Home Basic, however, I would suggest the CD version, which is at this time the same price as the DVD version, but which may have a higher resale value later on due to its expanded compatibility (IE, compatibility with systems lacking a DVD drive).

So, that's about it. Let's recap:

Monitor:
$53 HP MX705E 17" CRT from Circuit City (B&M or online)
$12 ACM CSV-F10MM (if necessary)
$8 Kinemax CB-PWRC (if necessary)

Keyboard & mouse:
$33 Microsoft Optical Desktop 1000 Wireless (or...)
$21 Logitech 967973-0403
$10 Belkin F8E089-BLK mouse pad (if necessary)

Speakers:
$110 Sony CMT-BX1 from Best Buy with 6' y-adapter from RadioShack (or...)
$65 Creative Inspire T3100 2.1 speakers (or...)
$34 Logitech X-140 2.0 speakers (or...)
$19 6' y-adapter and 20' extension cable from RadioShack, for use w/existing entertainment system (or...)
$9 6' y-adapter for use w/existing entertainment system (or...)
$0 bundled cheap speakers with HP monitor

Power strip:
$11 pair of Belkin 6-outlet surge protectors from Target (or...)
$9 Belkin 6-outlet in-wall surge protector from Target

Printer and accessories:
$59 HP Deskjet D2460 CB611A
$7 Sysonic UAB6 GWT 6' USB cable
$7 400-sheet HP ink jet printer paper from Target

Operating system:
$117 Vista Home Premium 32-bit OEM (or...)
$100 Vista Home Basic 32-bit OEM CD
 

myocardia

Diamond Member
Jun 21, 2003
9,291
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Originally posted by: hurtstotalktoyou
Monitor
Despite Anandtech's Hanns-G HW-191DPB recommendation, I don't think a $194 monitor really captures the entry-level spirit. CRT monitors aren't much cheaper at Newegg, but at local B&M stores they're actually very cheap. Circuit City offers an HP MX705E 17" CRT monitor for $50 plus tax (which translates to about $53 where I live), and they'll even ship it out for free if you don't live near a store that's got one in stock. It comes with a pair of cheap speakers you'll probably never use. I'm not absolutely sure that it comes with the necessary cables, but if not you can get an ACM CSV-F10MM (male-male SVGA cable) for $12 shipped and/or a Kinemax CB-PWRC (AC power cable) for $8 shipped. So, assuming the worst--that the monitor does not include *either* of the required cables, and that your sales tax is as much as 11%--the total cost of this monitor will be $75. Ordinarily, though, I'd expect it to be about $53. Widescreen LCD displays sure are nice, but they're not really appropriate for entry level.

Agreed, $200 is nowhere near entry-level, although most people with whom money is tight (and most people with whom it isn't) don't replace their monitors, just because they are replacing their computers.

Keyboard and mouse
Generally speaking these should be purchased together, as a combo. Anandtech recommends the Microsoft Optical Desktop 1000 Wireless ($33), and I agree that for a wireless combo that is indeed the right choice. However, for entry level sometimes cutting costs is essential. Since wired devices are typically less hassle to install and also somewhat cheaper, it might be best to go for something like the Logitech 967973-0403 ($21). Both combos are great choices. You just need to ask yourself, is it worth $12 for wireless? If you need a mouse pad (for optical mice like these you probably won't) the Belkin F8E089-BLK is about as cheap as they come, for $10 shipped.

Huh? Mice and keyboards are completely separate compononents. Why would they "need" to be purchased as a combo? For instance, I have never in my life purchased any mouse/keyboard combo, and am currently using a Logitech mouse that the newer version of can be had for ~$10, anywhere that mice are sold, along with a keyboard that I bought 3 years ago for $1.95 @ Fry's. And I bought two of the keyboards, but the backup is still waiting to be needed.

They both work quite well together, along with my two systems (through a KVM), which are light-years faster than the two fastest systems in your house.

Speakers
Best Buy offers the 30W Sony CMT-BX1 combo for only $93 plus tax, or about $101. Then just attach it to the PC via RadioShack's $9 adapter cable, for a total of about $110.

And where are you going to put these unshielded speakers, next to your CRT monitor, or next to your newly built, but highly-susceptible-to-magnets computer?:D

If you just need something to let you hear basic sounds, the bundled speakers with the HP monitor should do fine.

Agreed, especially since your average computer buyer only uses their PC speakers for, at the most, either listening to some music while they read their e-mail, or for watching the occasional video on youtube.

Operating system
Almost without question, Windows Vista 32-bit OEM is the best choice for entry-level and budget systems.

You know, 5 or 6 times over the past year, I asked people who know absolutely nothing about computers (but still owned one) what makes a computer fast, to them. Want to know what every single one of them said? A faster computer gets them to the desktop faster, from the time they push the power button. See, a 166 Mhz Pentium MMX is way faster than they need, for browsing web pages, and writing e-mail, so they aren't going to notice how much faster it runs Crysis, nor SuperPi, nor how fast it can transcode video.

The only reason I mention that is because you must not have heard how slow Vista is, at booting. It's at least 2x slower than XP, at booting, if not a bit slower. Sad, but true.

edit: I forgot to say how much I agreed with your first post in this thread. It was pretty much spot-on, although I wouldn't recommend a mini-ATX motherboard, when building your own system.

 

AmberClad

Diamond Member
Jul 23, 2005
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Heh, don't feel too bad about the hard drives. I still have a couple of 60GB and 75GB hard drives that I use for backups and alternate OSs. Even my primary drive is a 160GB Seagate SATA, which is quite measly compared to the terabyte drives coming out these days. So by AT's definition of "entry level", my hard drives wouldn't even qualify for the lowest end :p.

I agree with some of your points. I've had bundled PSUs crap out on me, and considering you can often buy a decent quality (albeit, not super-high wattage) PSU for fairly little after rebate, why wouldn't you?

As far as the Foxconn board, shockingly enough, I haven't had to RMA mine :p. But it's an Intel, not an AMD-based one. With the amount of experience they have manufacturing OEM Intel boards, those should be fairly safe. But their experience with AMD platforms may be more dubious. I remember reading a trade show article a while ago where they interviewed various motherboard company reps. I came away with the impression that Foxconn devotes far more resources to Intel technology.

As you mentioned, there are also some decently-price, non-rebate RAM kits out there. AData, Mushkin, and Wintec all have 2GB kits going for $50-$60 these days.

So, lots of interesting points that you brought up.
 

ViRGE

Elite Member, Moderator Emeritus
Oct 9, 1999
31,516
167
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You should cut that down some and post it in the comments section of that article, along with a link to this thread. Readers and the story's author are far more likely to notice it there than here.
 

SerpentRoyal

Banned
May 20, 2007
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I believe the GA-P35-DS3L made the list because Gigabyte is a big advertiser. There is NOTHING special about this board if you don't need the LPT and COM ports. Board isn't even FULL-SIZED ATX. NO PWM heat sink so pushing a Q6600 at high Vcore can be an issue. A few P35 owners have had problem with loss of BIOS settings. This appears to be a continuation of the P965 BIOS reset bug.

The IP35-E has better power module and cooling at the PWM. C1E and EIST will work at any Vcore setting as long as default CPU multi is used. The CPU and SYSTEM fan headers are mosfet-driven for higher current load. These headers will also support two wire fans. Double post issue is fixed with 13 BIOS. This is the best overclocking P35 board under $90. It was on sale last month for $61 plus shipping.
 

ViRGE

Elite Member, Moderator Emeritus
Oct 9, 1999
31,516
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Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal
I believe the GA-P35-DS3L made the list because Gigabyte is a big advertiser. There is NOTHING special about this board if you don't need the LPT and COM ports. Board isn't even FULL-SIZED ATX. NO PWM heat sink so pushing a Q6600 at high Vcore can be an issue. A few P35 owners have had problem with loss of BIOS settings. This appears to be a continuation of the P965 BIOS reset bug.

The IP35-E has better power module and cooling at the PWM. C1E and EIST will work at any Vcore setting as long as default CPU multi is used. The CPU and SYSTEM fan headers are mosfet-driven for higher current load. These headers will also support two wire fans. Double post issue is fixed with 13 BIOS. This is the best overclocking P35 board under $90. It was on sale last month for $61 plus shipping.
AT's advertising is fully segregated from its writers. If the Gigabyte board is on there, then it's going to be because the author chose it.
 

SerpentRoyal

Banned
May 20, 2007
3,517
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The guy never said why the DS3L was better than IP35-E. Too fishy for me.

QUOTE FROM ARTICLE:
However, for our budget, we are limited to just a couple of options: the abit IP-35E or the Gigabyte GA-P35-DS3L. In the end, we chose the latter, because even though it is at the bottom of the P35-DS3 range from Gigabyte, it has proven to have all the vital features and overclocking ability of its more expensive brethren - and at a very attractive price.

Hmmm...IP35-E has more overclocking options, plus PWM heat sink. Anyone who has pushed a quad knows that these chips will draw a lot of current from the output devices. Board will easily hit 450MHz with default VTT, NB, SB, and GTLREF settings. Current price is only $71 AR for the last few months. What's the lowest price on the DS3L? Did I mentioned that the Abit shows actual Vcore and Vdimm in BIOS instead of +xxx found in the Gigabyte?

 

erikistired

Diamond Member
Sep 27, 2000
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Originally posted by: ViRGE
Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal
I believe the GA-P35-DS3L made the list because Gigabyte is a big advertiser. There is NOTHING special about this board if you don't need the LPT and COM ports. Board isn't even FULL-SIZED ATX. NO PWM heat sink so pushing a Q6600 at high Vcore can be an issue. A few P35 owners have had problem with loss of BIOS settings. This appears to be a continuation of the P965 BIOS reset bug.

The IP35-E has better power module and cooling at the PWM. C1E and EIST will work at any Vcore setting as long as default CPU multi is used. The CPU and SYSTEM fan headers are mosfet-driven for higher current load. These headers will also support two wire fans. Double post issue is fixed with 13 BIOS. This is the best overclocking P35 board under $90. It was on sale last month for $61 plus shipping.
AT's advertising is fully segregated from its writers. If the Gigabyte board is on there, then it's going to be because the author chose it.

i'd believe that for reviews, i think they keep it well separated, but for a buyer's guide i can't help to think if there are two choices, the author is going to lean towards the advertiser. nothing wrong with that, it's a buyer's guide, and everyone should do their own research.

for the OP: foxxconn is supposed to make fairly good boards. remember that most of the people who post on newegg are going to be doing so because of problems, that's just the nature of the board. you can't really take 3 out of 34 reviews and call that a problem.
 

ViRGE

Elite Member, Moderator Emeritus
Oct 9, 1999
31,516
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Originally posted by: fisher
i'd believe that for reviews, i think they keep it well separated, but for a buyer's guide i can't help to think if there are two choices, the author is going to lean towards the advertiser. nothing wrong with that, it's a buyer's guide, and everyone should do their own research.
How would they even know who the advertiser is though? They have no way to know who's buying ads on what articles and in what quantity, and it certainly won't say on their paycheck who did the most advertising the past month.

Even if it's a buyer's guide, I'd say it's a pretty serious accusation to say AT isn't on the level.
 

SerpentRoyal

Banned
May 20, 2007
3,517
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A good reviewer should state why product A is better than product B.

You can't see the huge Gigabyte ad at the top of this page?
 

JackMDS

Elite Member
Super Moderator
Oct 25, 1999
29,430
366
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I had the Gigabyte, and replace it with the IP35-E.

From my perspective, the IP35-E yields a little better result.

It is a Finicky motherboard that behaves a little strange and need a lot of play around with. Once you stabilize it, it stays stable, but one needs a lot of patience and work to bring it to its stable position.

I did not mind investing the time in the "Play" process and squeezed a little more ?Juice? out of the IP35-E. If However if I had to recommend a board to the public at large, I would recommend the Gigafast since I do not know how many End-Users Know or Want to invest the playtime needed for the IP-35-E.


 

SerpentRoyal

Banned
May 20, 2007
3,517
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I've built six rigs with IP35-E. The key is to secure quality JEDEC 1.8V DDR2 667 or 800 RAMs from Crucial or Kingston. JEDEC standard for DDR2 800 is 1.8V. Inferior DDR2 800 RAMs will require more voltage to POST at default 400MHz speed.

1. Clear CMOS. Stock 11 BIOS works fine up to 500MHz FSB.
2. Boot into BIOS and change USB mouse and keyboard support from OS to BIOS mode. Set Optical drive to 1st BOOT, and HDD to 2nd BOOT. Hit F10 to save. Install windows. Load Intel chipset. Reboot. Load sound. Reboot. Load LAN. Reboot. Nothing special.
3. To overclock, set 1:1 memory divider, bump Vcore 5 to 10% above VID, and dial-in the desired FSB speed. For example, if CPU is stable at 388MHz FSB with 1.46Vcore, then enter these settings in the BIOS. No need to play around with VTT, NB, SB, GTLREF, and memory timing unless you want to run the FSB north of 450MHz.

Some boards will auto detect USB mouse and keyboard. This board requires the user to enter the BIOS to change USB support from OS to BIOS mode with default 11 BIOS and 12 BIOS. Updating to BIOS 13 will auto detect USB keyboard.
 

Zepper

Elite Member
May 1, 2001
18,998
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I often chastise the AT crew for selecting junk case/psu bundles for their "budget" systems. After all, the PSU is the cornerstone of a stable system. Check out the recent cheapskate PSU comparo at jonnyguru.com hah. . If you pay $100 on the pair it will have been money well spent as it will last you thru several cycles of internal components. You can often find high quality and perfectly sufficient PSUs on eBay for a song that noobs are selling because they (usually) mistakenly think they need more. If you have to wait a bit and save up, so be it. Get a pack of jerky and bite down - you can do it... ;)

OP,
If you care for your equipment, you should avoid Belkin power products. Their business plan won't really allow them to make decent products at the price points and margins at wihch they need to sell them. Their whole reason for being is to increase the big box stores' overall profit margins. Look inside a power strip which is regularly priced similarly to a product from CyberPower or APC and look in the CP/APC too. If you don't see significant corners cut in the Belkin, I'll come over and eat it. ;)

.bh.
 

SerpentRoyal

Banned
May 20, 2007
3,517
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Would be interesting to see where the GA-P35-DS3L stands when the "budget P35 boards" review hits the web. How well can the DS3L cope with a Q6600 north of 3.6GHz? Folks are seeing 100C PWM without air flow to the IP35-E's PWM heat sink. Can the DS3L fare better without any heat sink at the output devices? On the pricing front, IP35-E has been selling for $70 or less over the last two months.

Many P35 boards can hit 440MHz FSB without much work. The IP35-E can cruise at +480MHz FSB with only a one notch bump in VTT, NB, and SB.