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AMD Ryzen 3000 Builders Thread

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Q-Flash Plus will update the main BIOS only if run without the CPU installed. The system will shut down upon completion.
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I think I need to take out the CPU first. The board does not have a backup BIOS so the only BIOS is the main BIOS. I think I will do it later when I have peace of mind. Thank you so much for your help, DrMrLordX.
 
So looking at my bios I just noticed on my CH8 Hero wifi that PBO is set to Auto by default. These 4 sections all say auto
PBO
PBO scalar
Max Cpu Boost Overdrive
Platform Thermal Throttle Limit.

Dont know enough about voltages but should some/all of these be set to off?


Edit someone told me the auto basically mean off (as said by Steve@Gamernexus)
 
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lopri said:
I think I need to take out the CPU first. The board does not have a backup BIOS so the only BIOS is the main BIOS. I think I will do it later when I have peace of mind. Thank you so much for your help, DrMrLordX.
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I see too many times, when my CPU is high 80, low 90s C temperatures without stress testing
I wonder how long will it work
 
lopri said:
Does anyone know what Microcenter's return/replacement policy is? Also, do they test CPUs and/or motherboards if requested?
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15 days on MB's and CPU's. I'd imagine they'd test them if asked. If your still in the return window it's probably your best bet.
 
Good news: my system is no longer power cycling; I exchanged my motherboard for one that has the ryzen 3000 ready sticker.

Bad news: I can't get it to output video. I trying clearing the bios, and was able to get into the UEFI briefly. I then restarted so I could boot from USB and...nothing again. I tried clearing the bios again but I was never able to get the UEFI to show up after that first time. I tried it out with both one and two sticks of memory.

I'm pretty much ready to throw in the towel and take it in for professional analysis. Does anyone have an idea of something obvious I might be missing?

Motherboard is Asrock fatality b450 itx, processor is 3600, PSU is brand new SF600.

Kenmitch said:
15 days on MB's and CPU's. I'd imagine they'd test them if asked. If your still in the return window it's probably your best bet.
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They do testing, but it's a $40 charge. At least that's what the Fairfax location told me. But it sounds like each location is run differently, so you'd probably want to check with yours about their costs.
 
Got my machine up and running but I think I have a bad DIMM; one doesn't allow the system to POST at all. Should be covered under warranty but I won't have the machine to play with until I get a replacement.

Was able to get the CPU to 4.5ghz though with the single DIMM, so that's at least a start. Not sure how much I'll OC this setup tbh but other than the DIMM it's working well.
 
PSA for those of you thinking about lapping your Ryzen 3000.

In one word: ugh

This chip (3900x) has the most infuriatingly difficult-to-remove nickel plating I've ever experienced. My 7700k was a cakewalk compared to this thing. Two 220-grit sheets of carbide wet/dry paper and I still didn't quite get rid of all the nickel plating. Got metal shavings and crap all over the pins too. What a fiasco. Fortunately, I was able to remove the brownish-grey schmutz from the pins with a child's toothbrush (Equate brand) and some 91% isopropyl alcohol. So it probably still works. I hope. I'll have to test-boot it later or . . . something.

Not sure if I'm going to bother lapping it any further since the only goal was to get rid of the nickel . . . not to make it smooth. Conductonaut will resurface the IHS anyway. Or at least it should. CLU always did on copper.

edit: gah, chip seems to be dead. No post. Time to order another one! Yay! Got one from a scalper. This is getting expensive.
 
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Kenmitch said:
Reseat your GPU? Maybe double check your power connections while your at it.
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Thanks, I'll have to try that once more. The gpu not being properly seated seems most obvious, but I took it in/out twice and it seemed to be firmly connected. My problem is I don't have too much time to tinker during the week since I'm cannibalizing the GPU from my current system.
 
DrMrLordX said:
PSA for those of you thinking about lapping your Ryzen 3000.

In one word: ugh

This chip (3900x) has the most infuriatingly difficult-to-remove nickel plating I've ever experienced. My 7700k was a cakewalk compared to this thing. Two 220-grit sheets of carbide wet/dry paper and I still didn't quite get rid of all the nickel plating. Got metal shavings and crap all over the pins too. What a fiasco. Fortunately, I was able to remove the brownish-grey schmutz from the pins with a child's toothbrush (Equate brand) and some 91% isopropyl alcohol. So it probably still works. I hope. I'll have to test-boot it later or . . . something.

Not sure if I'm going to bother lapping it any further since the only goal was to get rid of the nickel . . . not to make it smooth. Conductonaut will resurface the IHS anyway. Or at least it should. CLU always did on copper.

edit: gah, chip seems to be dead. No post. Time to order another one! Yay! Got one from a scalper. This is getting expensive.
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If it looks like you had any residue left after using the toothbrush, you might want to give a can of brake clean a go. A quality can is like alcohol and compressed air in one can. Definitely wear gloves if you try some.
 
Yeroon said:
If it looks like you had any residue left after using the toothbrush, you might want to give a can of brake clean a go. A quality can is like alcohol and compressed air in one can. Definitely wear gloves if you try some.
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These days most brake parts cleaners have way too much water in them.

It would be best to find something that's geared towards mass airflow sensor cleaner/electrical parts cleaner.
 
Kenmitch said:
These days most brake parts cleaners have way too much water in them.

It would be best to find something that's geared towards mass airflow sensor cleaner/electrical parts cleaner.
Click to expand...

I guess those two are probably more appropriate.

As for water in brake clean, I'm skeptical - at least for the products I use. Evaporates too quickly, and burns too well for there to be any significant amounts of water in it.
 
DrMrLordX said:
PSA for those of you thinking about lapping your Ryzen 3000.

In one word: ugh

This chip (3900x) has the most infuriatingly difficult-to-remove nickel plating I've ever experienced. My 7700k was a cakewalk compared to this thing. Two 220-grit sheets of carbide wet/dry paper and I still didn't quite get rid of all the nickel plating. Got metal shavings and crap all over the pins too. What a fiasco. Fortunately, I was able to remove the brownish-grey schmutz from the pins with a child's toothbrush (Equate brand) and some 91% isopropyl alcohol. So it probably still works. I hope. I'll have to test-boot it later or . . . something.

Not sure if I'm going to bother lapping it any further since the only goal was to get rid of the nickel . . . not to make it smooth. Conductonaut will resurface the IHS anyway. Or at least it should. CLU always did on copper.

edit: gah, chip seems to be dead. No post. Time to order another one! Yay! Got one from a scalper. This is getting expensive.
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Don't worry, I'm collecting dead chips. You can send it to me for good keeping.
 
maddie said:
Why would water be a problem if you dry the chip completely?
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A person can do it however they like in the end.

If you soak the cpu with water how can you be sure there isn't any under the heat spreader? If the external looks dry and you install it and boot up it could possibly instantly fry it.

I'd prefer to be on the more cautious side when dealing with stuff like this. Paying the extra few bucks for something that can blast away and evaporate quickly is peace of mind.
 
So i got my memory from 3200cl6 to 3466cl16 with only minor tweaking. I could probably brute force it via a hefty voltage jump to 3600/cl16. How much performance difference are we expecting from 3466 to 3600? If its only half a frame or half a second then I won't bother. Also what is the max safe voltage for ram these days? 1.4? 1.45? These are 16gb dimms
 
Kenmitch said:
A person can do it however they like in the end.

If you soak the cpu with water how can you be sure there isn't any under the heat spreader? If the external looks dry and you install it and boot up it could possibly instantly fry it.

I'd prefer to be on the more cautious side when dealing with stuff like this. Paying the extra few bucks for something that can blast away and evaporate quickly is peace of mind.
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DrMrLordX's CPU budget evaporates pretty quickly. Could use that.
 
StinkyPinky said:
So i got my memory from 3200cl6 to 3466cl16 with only minor tweaking. I could probably brute force it via a hefty voltage jump to 3600/cl16. How much performance difference are we expecting from 3466 to 3600? If its only half a frame or half a second then I won't bother. Also what is the max safe voltage for ram these days? 1.4? 1.45? These are 16gb dimms
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According to the Stilt, DDR4 can handle 1.5V on a daily basis (when properly cooled I assume).
 
Kenmitch said:
If you soak the cpu with water how can you be sure there isn't any under the heat spreader?
Click to expand...

Therein lies the rub. I don't think the CPU died from a pin-to-pin short (like my other dead lapping victim, an Athlon 635 back in . . . 2009?). If you look at the heatspreader, there are two tiny grooves on opposite side where there is no epoxy seal between the IHS and PCB. That's where stuff can get under the IHS. I strongly suspect that a combination of water, dish soap, carbide, nickel, and copper got under there. Game over. Only way to lap safely is to line the sides of the IHS with a tiny strip of tape to keep that crap off the IHS entirely. And maybe more tape around the PCB to try and keep stuff off the pins. Though honestly getting stuff off the pins is pretty easy. I went over those with a magnifying glass. They were immaculate.

ClockHound said:
DrMrLordX's CPU budget evaporates pretty quickly. Could use that.
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Heyooooo! How's the veal? Will you be here all week?

maddie said:
Don't worry, I'm collecting dead chips. You can send it to me for good keeping.
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Might take you up on that. Once my eBay special gets here, I can diagnose if the rest of the system can be made to post. Then I'll be 100% sure that I nuked my initial chip.

realibrad said:
Any idea on when the 3900x will be back in stock in NA? Cant find it on any of the major sites.
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ShopBLT has a large shipment arriving on the 30th of July. Take that for what it's worth.
 
realibrad said:
So far I have ordered my PSU, RAM, Motherboard, SSD. I just need to get a CPU and a GPU, and I have my new system.
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You are seeing the usual lag of something new coming out and fufillment. For example I ordered a 3900x from Bestbuy late on release day (or maybe the day after). Anyways they got enough in to send it to me last week. So whats going to happen is all those backorders from the first week are getting filled and each system will bring them closer and closer to being in stock. Probably by first week of August you can probably walk into Microcenters and pick one up.
 
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