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AMD 1950x Threadripper Overheating in Propellerhead Reason 10 [Resolved]

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Markfw

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*UPDATE*

Well boys, we did it. It turns out it was as simple as someone not properly connecting the wire to the radiator. The wire is up top behind the fan somewhere and is "hard to see" so it is "easy to miss" apparently - so if anyone else has this problem - that should be one of the first things they check.

Sorry to raise the alarm bells on Propellerhead's Software! But I took it to TWO PROFESSIONAL REPAIR TECHNICIANS! THREE! IN TOTAL!

The THIRD repair technician finally caught the problem...

I just ran through my entire song Overclocked at 3.8 GHZ @ 37.25 degrees C! A TREMENDOUS DIFFERENCE! It used to slowly climb to 85, then crash.

Now to stress test with AIDA64.
I would not call them PROFESSIONAL REPAIR TECHNICIANS, but simply minimum wage idiots.
 

thecoolnessrune

Diamond Member
Jun 8, 2005
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It's a credit to the heat capacitance of liquid cooling that it could operate by passing through a radiator with no airflow. All but the most massive of air coolers running without a fan would have let you know about it very quickly, and even then, all would have collapsed under any sort of Threadripper load. I'm glad you got it sorted! And thanks for letting us know what the cause ultimately was :D
 
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Raizor

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Apr 26, 2018
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HAHA!

Thanks for all your help/ support!

This really is a great community! I will be sure to stick around and try to help others!
 

Raizor

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Apr 26, 2018
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I'm sorry I'm not sure. Whichever radiates off heat and brings it BACK to the CPU to cool it off.
 

crashtech

Diamond Member
Jan 4, 2013
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Given the symptoms I would guess one or both of the radiator fans. Seems like that would be so easy to detect, though, I didn't even think to mention checking for fans not spinning...
 

Markfw

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Given the symptoms I would guess one or both of the radiator fans. Seems like that would be so easy to detect, though, I didn't even think to mention checking for fans not spinning...
Actually, I think its the pump that was not working, thats a separate plug.
 
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IEC

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Actually, I think its the pump that was not working, thats a separate plug.
Either one would lead to the problems he mentioned. The pump not working would cause problems sooner, so I'd venture a guess it was the fans.
 

Markfw

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Either one would lead to the problems he mentioned. The pump not working would cause problems sooner, so I'd venture a guess it was the fans.
I am only guessing that it would be easier to miss that, than seeing no fans on the rad. That might explain why it took so long to find it. Even the user could see that (Raizor)
 
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Raizor

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Apr 26, 2018
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Yeah, I swear I heard, saw, felt the fans. I put my hand over top of the radiator many times.

*I just did it right now and its pumping out COOL air as opposed to the HEAT that I think I remember feeling before*
 
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Raizor

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Apr 26, 2018
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I ran Final Fantasy XV last night at Highest Settings at 4k and was hitting 40-60 FPS @ 30 degrees C.

Also - right now I increased my Overclocking from 3.8 GHZ @ 1.23125V to 3.9 @ 1.23125 V and 3.95 @ 1.23125. I tested it out and my song - with web browsing - steam - and other apps open was running fine. Without any errors/ crashes.

Is that a good sign for this whole "Silicone Lottery" I've been hearing about?
 

Raizor

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Apr 26, 2018
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Ok... so I kept my SAME Voltage of 1.23125 and kicked the Clock up to 4.0 GHZ and am running Aida64 Stress Test at 100%...

54 degrees.
 

Raizor

Member
Apr 26, 2018
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Guys - I have ANOTHER set of problems though it looks like. Should I start another Thread/ Post in another Forum or something? OR do you think we could handle it here?

 

Raizor

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Apr 26, 2018
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That "Red Line" on the SSD was GREEN every time I ran this test before. The Latency was ALWAYS YELLOW for the RAM - however - it was ALWAYS performing in the 90th percentile or higher... I have no clue why any of this would change.

Is it the Voltage I'm running at now?
 

thecoolnessrune

Diamond Member
Jun 8, 2005
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You should start another thread in the Memory and Storage area. Could come down to a lot of factors. I would start by making sure you have your Samsung Magician software installed, have the latest drive firmware installed (make sure you always have a backup before upgrading firmware), and the software doesn't point out any obvious faults.
 
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zebrax2

Senior member
Nov 18, 2007
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It looks like your ram is currently running at very low clocks affecting your system performance. Try adjusting the memory clock.
 

Raizor

Member
Apr 26, 2018
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Ok, mates, thank you. Didn't even know Samsung had software for it's SSD. Also - I don't know how to change RAM speed :/
 

Markfw

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Yes, that ram should be running at 1600, not 1067 (DDR 3200 instead of 2133)
 
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Topweasel

Diamond Member
Oct 19, 2000
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Yeah, I swear I heard, saw, felt the fans. I put my hand over top of the radiator many times.

*I just did it right now and its pumping out COOL air as opposed to the HEAT that I think I remember feeling before*
That would make more sense if the pump wasn't working. You basically turned a full blown liquid cooler into a vapor chamber. This is an easy mistake to make. Hell I am guilty of almost tearing a build down because I forgot to hit the power switch on the PSU.
 

ericlp

Diamond Member
Dec 24, 2000
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I also had an issue with the mounting bracket being a very tight fit on the threaded mounting screws. Had to really work it to get it down and in contact with the CPU heat spreader.

I too had the same problem.

Got one of these off amazon.

Mine reamer was too large for this application, but this fit the bill! and all for under 10 bucks.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074TFSS9R/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Worked Beautifully! Temps are now in high 30C at idle. Was never like that before, I suspect that who ever drilled the holes on these mounts, were off a bit. Just be careful you don't drill too much as you could end up creating a slot! LOL. Easy to do, fit's much better and I get way better cooling now, since the springs don't have to fight the threads. Slides right over the mounting screws like it was suppose to.

Hint: You don't need to remove the entire mount. As I was thinking, there is NO way I'm going to drilling shrap metal next to my case, you can actually slide the metal mounting clip off of the cooler. So, just pull it, slide out the clip, take it out to the shop, enlarge the 4 holes a bit, test fit, clean old compound, reapply thermal paste.

BOOM! enjoy the cooler temps!
 
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Paratus

Lifer
Jun 4, 2004
14,375
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I too had the same problem.

Got one of these off amazon.

Mine reamer was too large for this application, but this fit the bill! and all for under 10 bucks.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074TFSS9R/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Worked Beautifully! Temps are now in high 30C at idle. Was never like that before, I suspect that who ever drilled the holes on these mounts, were off a bit. Just be careful you don't drill too much as you could end up creating a slot! LOL. Easy to do, fit's much better and I get way better cooling now, since the springs don't have to fight the threads. Slides right over the mounting screws like it was suppose to.

Hint: You don't need to remove the entire mount. As I was thinking, there is NO way I'm going to drilling shrap metal next to my case, you can actually slide the metal mounting clip off of the cooler. So, just pull it, slide out the clip, take it out to the shop, enlarge the 4 holes a bit, test fit, clean old compound, reapply thermal paste.

BOOM! enjoy the cooler temps!
I may have to give that a try.
 
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jjh

Junior Member
Jun 21, 2018
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"The wire is up top behind the fan" - are you referring to the fan connectors or is there some other separate wire for the radiator? I am interested because I have the exact same setup taichi x399, tr 1950x, enermax tr4 240 and mine does lock up due to heat when OC'd to 4.0ghz and there is heavy cpu activity. I went through all the steps in enermax's video.. https://youtu.be/Wvj8HNcJLag It does not mention any wire to the radiator, only to the fans and the pump block. Is there another wire?
 

ericlp

Diamond Member
Dec 24, 2000
6,067
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what are the temps of your cpu? tr4 240 is not designed to OC a 1950x, better luck with a 360.

Also what are you doing to lock up your system? Are you running full loads 100% or just benchmarking?

Download HWiNFO64 to monitor the temps. The only power is to the pump, and the fans. Also what voltages are you using when you OC?
 

eek2121

Senior member
Aug 2, 2005
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You need to use Ryzen master to OC and show us the temps please.
My TR runs 46c @100% load. running 3.8 all cores. 1.125 vcore. Bios is all stock
Mark is that with the 360? I ask because I'm troubleshooting an issue right now with my machine, overclocks have gotten hotter and I'm not sure if it's due to board issues or if the Enermax 360 is dying.
 

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