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AMD 1950x Threadripper Overheating in Propellerhead Reason 10 [Resolved]

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crashtech

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Jan 4, 2013
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What sucks about remounting my CPU is that its one of those FOX-whatever-made sockets :/ So its a PAIN. I have to press REALLY HARD - and I dont want to.
Most cases have access to the backside of the CPU socket. You can use your other hand to prevent the motherboard from bending. I'm not familiar with the mounting method of the AIO you are using, nearly all of the ones I buy and use rely on springs and shouldered screws to achieve the correct mounting pressure. If you decide to remount (I recommend this) you could post some detailed photos of the process.
 

Kenmitch

Diamond Member
Oct 10, 1999
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Sounds like the software to me. Maybe some setting that messes with Threadripper?

What happens if you run something like Intel Burn Test? Temps will climb rapidly if cooler is the issue in IBT.
 
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Markfw

CPU Moderator, VC&G Moderator, Elite Member
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When we say "remount" don't touch the 3 screws on the TR4 socket, you remove the 4 NUTS holding the AIO over the CPU, clean both sides with isopropol alcohol until the are perfectly clean. Then put a very light layer of Thermal compound over the entire CPU surface, then put the AIO back and tighten the nuts. they should not be much more than hand tight.

Edit: crashtech, he does not need to use the back side or any screws, its 4 nuts on 4 studs that are hand tight into the TR4. If you mess with the screws, you are "screwed" as they must be torqued in order with a custom torque wrench. And they are VERY hard to start, I have to use a special screwdriver and push so hard it scares me, after 1/2 turn, I go to the torque wrench.
 
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Raizor

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Apr 26, 2018
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Installing the Cooler Block is easy - Reinstalling the CPU is difficult. I may have been confused. IF you're just saying re-mount the Cooler block - that is simple enough. I can do that and take photos.
 

Raizor

Member
Apr 26, 2018
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Right on, guys. Thank you very much! I will remount!

By the way - I heard some very nasty things about TR with Liquid Metal Thermal Paste.
 

Paratus

Lifer
Jun 4, 2004
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FYI. I have the smaller 1900X on a TR4 Liqtech 360mm. A couple of things I learned

  • I ended up using the entire tube of included thermal compound when mounting to get sufficient coverage.
  • I also had an issue with the mounting bracket being a very tight fit on the threaded mounting screws. Had to really work it to get it down and in contact with the CPU heat spreader.
  • Double check you have the pump and fans plugged into the right headers.
Here’s an example thermal plot (last plot in the pic) of my Threadripper at full load using Prime 95. Temps spike fast and then very slowly rise to 68C.
 
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Markfw

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FYI. I have the smaller 1900X on a TR4 Liqtech 360mm. A couple of things I learned

  • I ended up using the entire tube of included thermal compound when mounting to get sufficient coverage.
  • I also had an issue with the mounting bracket being a very tight fit on the threaded mounting screws. Had to really work it to get it down and in contact with the CPU heat spreader.
  • Double check you have the pump and fans plugged into the right headers.
Here’s an example thermal plot (last plot in the pic) of my Threadripper at full load using Prime 95. Temps spike fast and then very slowly rise to 68C.
But remember, he has a 1950X and yours runs MUCH cooler than his. I still say the 240 is really minimal, but at 3.4 ghz and stock vcore, there is NO WAY he should have temps in the 60's
 
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Raizor

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Yeah - and *UPDATE* I ran Final Fantasy XV to take a break, but I made sure to keep an eye on my temps.

It turns out I was WRONG - they are NOT stable - they DO increase - its just that they increase WAY SLOWER than in Reason 10....

So it HAS to be this frigging cooler.

I'm swapping it out.

And if that doesn't work - I'm going to have someone install a Custom Rig.
 

crashtech

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Right on, guys. Thank you very much! I will remount!

By the way - I heard some very nasty things about TR with Liquid Metal Thermal Paste.
This is going to sound flippant, but please make sure the surface of the block is bare metal, once in a while a plastic film will be there to protect against oxidation while in the box.
 

Raizor

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Apr 26, 2018
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BTW - Final Fantasy XV Specs on ULTRA SETTINGS @ 4k - 40-60 FPS @ 3.8 GHZ OC - played for a good hour.
 

Markfw

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This is going to sound flippant, but please make sure the surface of the block is bare metal, once in a while a plastic film will be there to protect against oxidation while in the box.
And even more flippant (I did this BTW) make sure the clear plastic cover is off the AIO, and BOTH side are clean metal.

I felt so stupid. I was getting 90c like you at full load stock.
 
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Paratus

Lifer
Jun 4, 2004
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But remember, he has a 1950X and yours runs MUCH cooler than his. I still say the 240 is really minimal, but at 3.4 ghz and stock vcore, there is NO WAY he should have temps in the 60's
Oh I agree. I just wanted to provide a reference point.

I actually think there’s something wrong with the applications interaction with Threadripper from his description. I don’t understand why his Threadripper has to be OC’d to 3.6Ghz to run this application correctly.

Does the OP know what the minimum recommended system is for this software?
 

IEC

Elite Member
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Yeah either the cooler's pump is broken, stuck on low RPM, or there's an error (TIM application, plastic film not removed, etc.) causing issues with thermal transfer somewhere between the waterblock and the CPU interface... even a budget Arctic Cooling 33TR air cooler is perfectly adequate for a full AVX load on all cores at stock speeds.
 

Markfw

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Any update ? we are waiting with baited breath (as the saying goes)
 
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Raizor

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Apr 26, 2018
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Sorry for the "Radio Silence", folks. I mentioned that I was taking my PC back to Micro Center for the second time since it's under their warranty for the next few years and it's free (a sweet deal for only $100 considering I built it myself, I'd say). It's been there for a while so there wasn't anything to update.

Anyway - APPARENTLY - the last guy to service it - the technician who assured me that 70-85 degree C temperatures were "within acceptable ranges" for a 1950x Threadripper with an Enermax 240 TR4 AIO - either failed to notice that something was not plugged in to the header fan to the radiator - or FORGOT to plug it back in himself after troubleshooting...

So - apparently my system was tested at stock settings again (which I told them I wasn't having a problem with, but whatever) - and they stressed my CPU at 100% for hours and it NEVER went over 50 degrees C.

The problem MAY be solved?

I'm, leaving to go pick it up soon and when I get back I'll Overclock and run my song in Reason 10 and let you guys know the results!

Thanks so much for your interest/ help/ and participation! You are awesome! This is a great community with really great moderators!
 

Raizor

Member
Apr 26, 2018
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Now, I also saw some videos about "expanding" my AIO. Does anyone know if that's possible with my Enermax? Install a larger reservoir and cool down my 1080 GPU as well?
 

Raizor

Member
Apr 26, 2018
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Now that I think about it - is it crazy that I was able to Overclock to 4.0 GHZ without my AIO being properly hooked up? How does that work? It just slowly overheats and the water doesn't get cooled down because the radiator doesn't radiate the heat off?
 

IEC

Elite Member
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Well, running your radiator passively (fans unplugged) would certainly cause the symptoms you indicated. It might be enough to complete a Cinebench run or quick benchmark but definitely wouldn't be enough to keep it cool under any sustained load because heat would only be minimally dissipated without airflow on the radiator... the water/coolant used has some heat capacity, but that would quickly become saturated without being able to radiate that heat away.

Now, I also saw some videos about "expanding" my AIO. Does anyone know if that's possible with my Enermax? Install a larger reservoir and cool down my 1080 GPU as well?
AIO like your Enermax are generally not designed with expansion in mind. The pump may or may not be powerful enough to handle the additional flow restriction of a GPU waterblock even if it is technically expandable (I don't see any indications yours is expandable). I certainly wouldn't recommend it on your Enermax as that would definitely void warranty.

As for reservoirs: A reservoir in a water cooling loop is only meant to make the loop easier to fill and keep topped off. The size of the reservoir makes very little difference in cooling performance. Water is just used to transfer the heat away from the CPU (or GPU) and take it to the radiator which does the vast majority of the heat transfer (assuming you have fans on it).

Your GTX 1080 has a TDP of about 165W, which means air cooling should be perfectly adequate to achieve maximal performance on it. I wouldn't recommend the complexity/additional points of failure associated with attempting to water cool it.
 
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crashtech

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Thanks for the update, @Raizor . If you can find out exactly what the problem was, it might help us connect symptoms with causes in the future.
 
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Raizor

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Apr 26, 2018
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*UPDATE*

Well boys, we did it. It turns out it was as simple as someone not properly connecting the wire to the radiator. The wire is up top behind the fan somewhere and is "hard to see" so it is "easy to miss" apparently - so if anyone else has this problem - that should be one of the first things they check.

Sorry to raise the alarm bells on Propellerhead's Software! But I took it to TWO PROFESSIONAL REPAIR TECHNICIANS! THREE! IN TOTAL!

The THIRD repair technician finally caught the problem...

I just ran through my entire song Overclocked at 3.8 GHZ @ 37.25 degrees C! A TREMENDOUS DIFFERENCE! It used to slowly climb to 85, then crash.

Now to stress test with AIDA64.
 

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