Am I Doing This Loop Right? (Pics Included!)

[Scionix]

So, I need to downsize my behemoth of a HAF932 to save desk space for the move to college, and keep my WC loop intact. I'm going to switch to:

This case: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-068-_-Product

And have:

This pump: http://www.dangerden.com/store/dd12v-d5_pump-variable-speed-by-laing.html

This Reservoir: http://www.dangerden.com/store/danger-den-rad-reservoir.html

And this Radiator: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/85...?tl=g30c95s161

Basically, I've been trying to map out where everything will go, how the loop will look, etc. I've thrown together this crude rendition in paint: http://img810.imageshack.us/img810/6681/wcsetup.png

What I'm most worried about is the loop order, as I currently have a pump+reservior combo and the extra line from the fillport is confusing my feeble knowledge of watercooling loops, so I'm not sure what I've got going on in the picture is right. Also, if someone could tell me where to buy some friggin screws for my radiator, that'd be awesome, as the ones that came with it aren't too snug. Any help would be great.

 

[aigomorla]

loop order is moot unless your applying it to the t line or reservoir.
If you have a Tline or a res, you always want it @ the inlet of your pump.

So move your Tline @ The inlet of your pump.
As it is right now, you will never get water to your pump inlet.

Do you mind buying extra hardware like a Res?

It would make your life a lot simplar then a T-line when it comes to bleeding.
Bleeding a Tline can be very very painful.

screws goto home depot.

Ahhh XSPC screws..
http://www.skinneelabs.com/xspc-rx360.html
M4 tapped screw holes
25mm (fan thickness) = to almost 1 inch.
So you want a screw a little longer then 1 inch, but no longer then 1 1/8 or you risk puncturing your radiator.

Always use your eye when screwing in a fan to test the screw, b4 you do all of them.

You would be surprised how many people have punctured there rad because they rushed fan mounting.

 

[Scionix]

loop order is moot unless your applying it to the t line or reservoir.
If you have a Tline or a res, you always want it @ the inlet of your pump.

Do you mind buying extra hardware like a Res?

It would make your life a lot simplar then a T-line when it comes to bleeding.
Bleeding a Tline can be very very painful.

screws goto home depot.

Ahhh XSPC screws.. hold up i'll ask my friend skinnee on the thickness..

25mm (fan thickness) = to almost 1 inch.
So you want a screw a little longer then 1 inch, but no longer then 1 1/8 or you risk puncturing your radiator.

Always use your eye when screwing in a fan to test the screw, b4 you do all of them.

You would be surprised how many people have punctured there rad because they rushed fan mounting.

Did you look at the picture? I have a inlet *and* a reservior, which is why I'm a tad confused. Also, I actually have punctured my radiator with fan screws before

I use rubber mounts now...

 

[Slugbait]

If you were getting something like a Silverstone LC17, I'd say, "good idea".

But you're only getting rid of 4 inches off the top and 4 off the rear. So instead I say, "You are insane to get rid of your HAF".

Besides, you might find your video card is a tight fit in the Centurion (if it fits...)

 

[Scionix]

If you were getting something like a Silverstone LC17, I'd say, "good idea".

But you're only getting rid of 4 inches off the top and 4 off the rear. So instead I say, "You are insane to get rid of your HAF".

Besides, you might find your video card is a tight fit in the Centurion (if it fits...)

Fair enough. Anything of a more economical size that I could get WC'ing that you know of? I'm not very experienced with case modding

 

[aigomorla]

Did you look at the picture? I have a inlet *and* a reservior, which is why I'm a tad confused. Also, I actually have punctured my radiator with fan screws before

I use rubber mounts now...

recheck my edits.

M4 screws.
OH that green thing is a res? LOL i thought it was a Radiator.

I was gonna say why you adding another rad? maybe he was thinking of adding a gpu later.

SO now im assuming you want a Tline as a drain?
That would probably be the best choice then for easy flushing.

However how you have it currently, you will still have problems getting water to your pump when you first fill your system.


What case is this? Maybe i can help ya plan it better.

 

[Scionix]

recheck my edits.

M4 screws.
OH that green thing is a res? LOL i thought it was a Radiator.

I was gonna say why you adding another rad? maybe he was thinking of adding a gpu later.

SO now im assuming you want a Tline as a drain?
That would probably be the best choice then for easy flushing.

However how you have it currently, you will still have problems getting water to your pump when you first fill your system.

Basically I was hoping I could fill the loop from the top of the case, hence the fillport. What would you suggest I do to my loop to work out that problem? Inlet to pump, perhaps?

Case is: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...coolermaster_centurion-_-11-119-068-_-Product

 

[aigomorla]

Basically I was hoping I could fill the loop from the top of the case, hence the fillport. What would you suggest I do to my loop to work out that problem? Inlet to pump, perhaps?

Case is: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-068-_-Product

first off you cant mount that res there.

When you have tubes and barbs on the bottom you will have problems with your gpu card.

Second can u even mount a 360 on the floor in that case?
Your gonna eat into a lot of your hard drive bays. Are you willing to sacrifice that?

Hold on im planning your system out.. and things will be difficult.

 

[Scionix]

first off you cant mount that res there.

When you have tubes and barbs on the bottom you will have problems with your gpu card.

Second can u even mount a 360 on the floor in that case?
Your gonna eat into a lot of your hard drive bays. Are you willing to sacrifice that?

Hold on im planning your system out.. and things will be difficult.

I might be stupid, but the res I'm buying has the mounts made to go on the 120mm fan that goes there, which makes me think it would go there, but I could be wrong.

Secondly, I'm pretty sure you can, not 100% sure though. And yes, I only use one HD, so that's fine.

Thanks for the help

EDIT: Unless I'm reading the measurements horribly wrong, the case is 480mm long, while the radiator is 410mm long, so it should fit. Also, the barbs don't all have to be straight, I'll be getting right angled barbs, 45 degree barbs, etc.

 

[aigomorla]

the res you didnt account for Barbs pointing down... and then followed by a half inch of tubing bending to the right...

im still looking over your design... however that res is making things very difficult.

What about a Bay Res which you can use your D5 intigrated onto that would fit in 2 x 5 1/4 bays?
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/xsacdu5refor1.html

That would make your life so much simplar... by a factor of 10.

And we looking a ATX case and not MATX case correct?

 

[Scionix]

the res you didnt account for Barbs pointing down... and then followed by a half inch of tubing bending to the right...

im still looking over your design... however that res is making things very difficult.

What about a Bay Res which you can use your D5 intigrated onto that would fit in 2 x 5 1/4 bays?

And we looking a ATX case and not MATX case correct?

Correct. A bay reservior would be fine, but what do you mean by D5 intigrated?

And yes, the case is ATX. Keep in mind the reservoir barbs could be right angled and whatnot.

 

[aigomorla]

then that bay res would be the best solution for you.

loop order ...

Bay res /w pump -> Cpu -> rad -> bay res

and it would be very clean.

but what do you mean by D5 intigrated?

You take off the black ring on your D5, and take the pump top apart.
Put it in that res where it screws on.

Then its a very nice and clean 1 package unit in 2 5 1/4 bays

 

[Slugbait]

I just looked at your PNG. Primary issue is the fill-hole placement: you've got a 1K PSU, which is a bit deeper than the run-of-the-mill PSU. After losing four inches, are the top two 5.25 bays going to be empty? I can envision almost no space between the PSU, fill-hole and optical drive. You might need to drop the optical to the third drive bay.

Second issue is the radiator. The bottom drive cage doesn't look removable...will the radiator fit?

I don't think there are any real options in mid-towers for your cooling system.

Like many people here, I enjoy putting together machines. But I don't much like transferring machines to a new case, unless the case is an upgrade. You're talking a very serious downgrade, plus hacking away at the case to make it work.

 

[Scionix]

then that bay res would be the best solution for you.

loop order ...

Bay res /w pump -> Cpu -> rad -> bay res

and it would be very clean.

How would one go about getting a fillport to that? Dremel one?

EDIT: Also, this is the pump/res I'm currently using. That pump just swaps into the new res, right?

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/7..._w_MCP-350355_No_Fittings.html?tl=g30c107s152

 

[aigomorla]

Second issue is the radiator. The bottom drive cage doesn't look removable...will the radiator fit?

he would need to cut his cage.

But the CM5 is cheap so moding it is something that wouldnt make you cry if you did a oops.

How would one go about getting a fillport to that? Dremel one?

It would be easier to give yourself some lax tubing, and just pull out the 5 1/4 unit to fill it.

Forget the fillport up top. Cover it with something.

 

[Scionix]

he would need to cut his cage.

But the CM5 is cheap so moding it is something that wouldnt make you cry if you did a oops.



It would be easier to give yourself some lax tubing, and just pull out the 5 1/4 unit to fill it.

Forget the fillport up top. Cover it with something.

Gotcha

 

[aigomorla]

Gotcha

i dont think you need anymore help after that bay res.

Good luck on your build, and make a work log.

Oh but start a new thread for your worklog.

 

[WoodButcher]

Why get a new res pump when the one you have is one of the best already? Is the punp a 350 or 355?
BTW , if you must use a fillport it would best be connected to your res they have a third port for filling. What you have drawn is a res with a t-line also, they both can serve the same function which is to keep the pump supplied with ready water and to trap air bubbles and separate air from your loop, both are not needed, one or the other.

 

[aigomorla]

Why get a new res pump when the one you have is one of the best already? Is the punp a 350 or 355?
BTW , if you must use a fillport it would best be connected to your res they have a third port for filling. What you have drawn is a res with a t-line also, they both can serve the same function which is to keep the pump supplied with ready water and to trap air bubbles and separate air from your loop, both are not needed, one or the other.

he has a D5, its big and its a cooler master centurion 5 case.

So his space is very very limited.

That bay res would condense things up for him nicely, and his old res wont work.


Hey OP when i said barbs and tubing... this is what i mean.. the barbs would probably hit your card.

If not the barbs, the tubing would.

You have more that needs to be extended from the base of your original Rad res.
Thats why it wont work on your rear 120.

 

[nipplefish]

Absolutely go with the bayres, it made my life a lot easier setting up my loop, and that Centurion is a lot more cramped than my case.

I'd skip the fillport altogether in that small case. I have the DDC version of the bayres and filled/bled it by just pulling it halfway out of the bay and using a funnel.

 

[Gillbot]

loop order is moot unless your applying it to the t line or reservoir.
If you have a Tline or a res, you always want it @ the inlet of your pump.

So move your Tline @ The inlet of your pump.
As it is right now, you will never get water to your pump inlet.

Do you mind buying extra hardware like a Res?

It would make your life a lot simplar then a T-line when it comes to bleeding.
Bleeding a Tline can be very very painful.

screws goto home depot.

Ahhh XSPC screws..
http://www.skinneelabs.com/xspc-rx360.html
M4 tapped screw holes
25mm (fan thickness) = to almost 1 inch.
So you want a screw a little longer then 1 inch, but no longer then 1 1/8 or you risk puncturing your radiator.

Always use your eye when screwing in a fan to test the screw, b4 you do all of them.

You would be surprised how many people have punctured there rad because they rushed fan mounting.

depends on the location of the tline and the pump used IMHO. I've never had a problem bleeding mine.