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air inside my water cooling system

G

gotensan01

Golden Member
Edit: new topic

For the life of me I cannot get all the air bubbles out of my system. My res sucks, it has no dividers and is small so it doesn't get rid of air bubbles fast enough. Therefore the air bubbles churning around in the res get sucked out back into the system. Here are some pics to clarify. If I ran this overnight, might the air bubbles disappear? I ran it for about 6 hours and the air bubbles didn't seem to decrease at all.

I posted on other forums and there were a couple ideas. The best one being to get rid of all air bubbles before starting it up. I was not able to do this. So before I go and try to make up my own fill and bleed system, does anyone have any good techniques?




Old topic:
Does anyone have any alternatives to Coolsleeves? Something that I may be able to find at a local hardware store maybe? I got crazy yoga style bends going on while I'm trying to finalize my water cooling setup. Unfortunately SVC sent me the wrong, smaller sized coolsleeves. Now I'm just twiddling my thumbs trying to figure out what to do...
 
Oh, yeah I've seen this before. I can actually pick these up at the hardware store too. The only concern of mine is whether or not this will constrict water flow. I mean the Aquaris kit isn't exactly great. What do other people think about springs inside?
 
I use the Aquarius II and I'd have to agree with you; its not that great. The springs on the inside won't restrict the water flow if you get the right size. Make sure you get the widest springs you can fit in the tubing and try to get the thinest metal possible.

Good luck.
 
hmmm, I already just connected everything without any type of flaten-reducing stuff. Around some bends it flatens a bit but I don't think it will be a problem. I mean as long as it doesn't flaten too much or completely kink right? The area should still be the same as long as the inside opening doesn't concave.

Thanks for input anyways, but now I have bigger fish to fry. I can't get the freakin air bubbles out. I think I'm going to have to install a custom fill and bleed system.
 
You could use either a fill and bleed system or to make things easier you could use a T-fitting. I'm not sure how they work though. I just know that they do. Try to find some stuff about them on Google.
 
So you're still wet-running your loop, you haven't put it in yet? Tell me about your coolant mixture and where in terms of elevation your res is positioned. Also, I wasn't aware that there we multiple sizes of coolsleave. The stuff I got looked tiny until I started whipping it around my tubing.
 
My water cooling kit is now assembled. I have all three blocks installed and I've been running the setup for about an hour now. I'm using the Swiftech mixture. One little bottle per liter of steam distilled water. The res is at the very top of the case. I have a 80mm case fan opening on top so I mounted my res hanging down from that.

SVC sells two different sizes. The ID of the coolsleeves is the same as the ID of my tubing which is 1/2". So if I had 3/8" ID, 1/2" OD tubing the coolsleeves I have now seems that it will fit. However since I use 1/2" ID tubing, the coolsleeves don't really seem like they fit. Is this how it is supposed to be?

EDIT: Sorry, I forgot to mention some very odd behavior. There seems to be a jetstream of air right after the chipset block, right after the output barb of the chipset. There isn't this kind of air collection anywhere else. Originally both barbs were epoxied on. However the output barb starting turning so I undid it and used teflon tape to make a tight seal. While not running the setup, I noticed that the intake barb of the chipset block was leaking. So again I undid it and tefloned it up. I thought that maybe the air jetstream was forming right after the chipset block because it was sucking in some air from the intake barb. But now it doesn't leak but there is still the jetstream. Is teflon good enough?

btw, I've run the system for about 2 hours now. It seems that the longer I run it the more that air enters the system.
 
It doesn't make sense that air would be sucked into your loop in that GPH is constant for the entire circuit. So it seems to me that any compromise in your plumbing would leak not suck. :laugh: Teflon tape SHOULD work, especially if you press it into the threading with your nail prior to screwing in the barb. If not you can back it up with a rubber O-ring (take the barb and block with you to the hardware store and get an O-ring that JUST slips over the threading and DON'T over tighten). I don't see any hose clamps in the picture of your res and chipset block. If you haven't done this for the final install, please do so now, and for every barb in your circuit. Also, looking at the picture of your res right now, is it filled to the point where there is about a third-to-half an inch of air? If there isn't, remove some coolant. It'll make it easier for the res to collect foam.
 
I got this idea from pcper forums. If you have mad air bubbles in your res that are being sucked into the system, put a spong in the res. This will trap and release the air bubbles properly.
 
Yes, it works pretty well. I mean there is still a small amount of bubbles but I don't think it's anything to worry about.
 
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