Acura TL 6MT really doesn't want to go into gear

[sontakke]

Given

1) Clutch pedal went limp
2) There is no fluid in reservoir

This is in itself is enough to understand why clutch was not releasing completely. The clutch might be binding as you suggest but there is no evidence from the symptoms.

Mechanic has every right to suggest that after 300K miles, clutch might need to be replaced but that has nothing to do with the problem that OP was having.

Dropping tranny without finding and fixing the leak (which is the correct diagnosis for the symptoms) is just not responsible but I know how a typical mechanic thinks.

Replacing master, slave and lines should have done first and if that did not fix the problem, then it would have been time to drop the tranny.

For OP:- Are you the original owner of this car? If so, you have got your moneys worth and lot more!

 

[spidey07]

Yes. Original owner. I agree the loss of fluid could be the indicator or cause of problem.

That's why I didn't really question clutch replacement. To ask a clutch to last 300k is asking a bit much.

I don't know the mechanic and he was close and I was stranded at work. 75 miles from home. He didn't know that and I limped a dangerous car to drive to be fixed.

 

[sontakke]

You are a great driver if you managed to get 300K out of the clutch. By 250K, my Honda had some slip before I donated it.

When I had the leak on Maxima, I was able to pump the clutch to build up temporary pedal and drive to the shop. After replacing the hose and slave cylinder and properly bleeding the clutch, I got the pedal back.

If you got the pedal back but still had problems in shifting afterwards, then I can understand internal problems with the clutch. BUT, if you never got the pedal back and still decided to drop the tranny ...

If the fluid was never checked in 300K miles, then it is possible that you did lose it completely without any visible leak. That could explain why the shop was not able to find the leak.

Has the car been fixed yet? Are you driving it now?

And you better be on the 3rd timing belt on that car 🙂 Those are nice cars and would run forever if well-treated. If you are on the east coast, look up Hamiton Honda from NJ; they have killer deals on timing belt jobs (almost at half price as compared to other places).

 

[spidey07]

Got it back. They assured me they checked master and slave cylinder before hand. The clutch fingers were worn pretty badly, I'll try to get pics up later. 485 for clutch, 8.8h labor. They said it was quite involved labor wise to pull the transmission down in terms of what you have to get outta the way first.

Clutch is nice and grippy now with great feel, transmission is still butter smooth.

Any thoughts on how to break in a new clutch?

 

[Phanuel]

For you? I make special secret advice sentence!

Slip it at 4k rpms for 5.23 minutes. Then launch it hard at 6.253 rpms 10 times in a row.



Drive it normally... it's a clutch, it'll live.

 

[sontakke]

Just take it easy for first 500-1000 miles. Listen, if you got 300K miles on the original clutch, you should be the one giving lessons to other people! Seriously, you must be treating clutch right. Just continue to do that.

Don't forget the timing belt, those generation of TL are the best cars on the planet and a 6MT are extremely rare and it would be a shame if the belt were to let go.

 

[spidey07]

Bump with pics.

 

[Zenmervolt]

pics of clutch that was eventually replaced, hmm...I see no springs on the friction plate.

Must be a dual mass flywheel or some other form of shock absorption then.

Most clutches have springs in the center to absorb the shock when they engage. Like this one does. And like the picture on the box in the photos you link. If the springs aren't in the clutch center, there has to be another mechanism to allow some amount of radial "give" as the clutch engages and this is typically a dual mass flywheel.

Still, there's obvious wear on the fingers of the pressure plate's diaphragm spring which would indicate that replacement was indeed necessary.

ZV

 

[sontakke]

Does it explain the dragging clutch based on these pictures? If the disc was binding, would there be any indication?

Am I correct in concluding that there is still appreciable friction material left on the disc? That is pretty amazing for 300K miles.

 

[spidey07]

It's my understanding with the fingers looking like they do the trow out bearing could press on them all it wanted. Still wasn't enough to back the pressure plate off.

I think I finally understand how a clutch works.