Acoustic Management DIY guide Part 2

Talcite

Senior member
Apr 18, 2006
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Hey guys, at the time of this writing, i'm in a hotel in Orlando at 2:30am. Not the best time to do the thinking, but i'm bored. Part 1 is here if you're interested. It really has more to do with the basic stuff about noise reduction. Part 2 is more abstract and really more useful if you've already finished doing Part 1. I wrote this section because i've noticed there's almost zilch in SPCR or here or anywhere about sound absorbtion.

Acoustic Management Guide Part II: Acoustic Absorption

This section is going to come together slowly. Anyways, its all about absorbing sound and preventing it from reverberating. One thing should really be clarified, the goal is to absorb the sound, not to block or reflect it and prevent it from going through.

In the article, i will discuss different techniques for absorbing and also blocking sound, most of these techniques are borrowed from home building and are used on a large scale. I will also discuss different ratings systems and how they work. This article should take a few weeks to finish =p

Ok so here we go...

First, sound absorbing material is rated and classified in many different standards, but the most important to us is the NRC and the STC.

NRC

The NRC or the noise reduction coefficient is a value between 0 and 1. 0 being perfect acoustic reflection, and 1 being perfect acoustic absorption. Its is the average of 4 values, the coefficients at 250Hz, 500Hz, 1000Hz, and 2000Hz. While these 4 frequencies span most of the noise we normally hear, there are a few exceptions. Human hearing spans from 20Hz to 20kHz. Some comprehensive sound absorbing foam will actually have ratings for up to 4000Hz. I have also seen NRC's of over 1, but how that's possible, its totally beyond me.

Most computer noise is high pitched. You rarely hear bass coming from a HSF =p. Therefore, you should find materials with good NRCs around the higher pitched ranges.

STC

STC or sound transmission class is generally used in house building, it is a measurement of how well a wall or celing absorbs sound. STC is based on sound loss in dBs at 16 frequencies between 125 and 4000 Hz. The values are then fitted to a transmission loss curve.

STC is measured in dBs and are harder to use in a computer's context because computers rarely generate the same frequencies and intensity of sound generated by a family of 4 in a townhouse. However, they may be used as a qualitative measurement, as to which methods of soundproofing are more effective. This is because acoustic absorption techniques are rarely measured in NRC, but instead in STC.


Alright... lets move on to techniques for reducing sound reflection.

It'd be ideal if you had a sound meter for measuring frequency and intensity, but since most of us don't have professional grade equipment that costs several thousands... well we just try to estimate the sound range.

Foam
Foam is generally a very popular way to reduce sound reflection. They are measured with NRC, and can range in price from several dollars to several hundred. Foam normally comes in large quantities, but it is possible to buy from a reseller for a smaller roll. Most cases will use foam as a preliminary acoustic absorber. Foam can come in many different shapes and sizes. Different sizes and shapes are designed for absorbing different frequencies of sound. The egg carton shape is very popular, as is the wedge. They both have their own respective frequency specialties.

The shape has a huge effect on absorption, but material also has a very large effect aswell. Open-celled foam is almost ALWAYS required for sound absorption. Generally, the more flexible the foam, the more it can absorb. I am not sure about the actual density of the foam, as if you move to really loose foam, it will leak sound, while really dense foam may reflect too much of it. this is where NRC ratings come in handy.

mass-loaded vinyl

Let me start of by saying mass-loaded vinyl is NOT the same as vinyl flooring. MLV is doped up with large amounts of heavy metals such as barrium (health hazard? 0.o) The principal behind MLV, as it is with all sound absorption, is to convert sound energy and vibrations into heat and then disperse. MLV's effectiveness is questionable, but should work nicely as a backing for foam (more on that later.)

fiberglass

Fiberglass is ITCHY. It will get into your skin and make everything very itchy. No joke, you must have professional experience with fiberglass before you try using it. Ontop of that, you must trap the fiberglass fibers in some kind of epoxy resin, which coincidentally releases organic fumes that will probably bond your contact lenses to your corneas or something equally traumatizing. The effectiveness of fiberglass is questionable, although it is employed in some high end speakers as insulation. I really know not much about fiberglass. I don't suggest working with it unless you're really adventurous. Use at own risk!! A safer alternative would be to use something with very fine fibers. Sort of like what the mutemat does, just you can make your own or something.

complicated pathways

Lets say you want to make a maze for your fan airflow, it'll probably completely kill the sound, provided you make the proper angled turns and line the edges with foam. Even just slightly angleing two walls together can create a dramatic effect in reducing sound. This is really more of an experimental kinda thing.

That's about all i can think of interms of sound absorption, now onto the sound blocking.

vacuum

Sound needs a medium to travel in. Remove medium, remove sound. 100% effective if you can pull off an absolute vacuum 0.o Not sure what effect a partial vacuum would have. I assume its a better way to stop sound waves?

Changing densities

Basically sound waves lose energy as they travel through different types of material. If you manage to sandwich many different density materials together, then sound will be diminished.
One way is actually to put sound absorpative material ontop of sound reflective material. Theoretically, it should force the sound waves to travel through the material twice, hence more absorption. I'm not sure about this though, never seen it really implemented anywhere.

Sound reflective material

Certain materials with very low NRC ratings will reflect sound waves. That's basically the point of a double paned window in a sound studio. Glass is a horrible medium to absorb sound with. It's really a better bet to reflect it back and let the other material handle it instead.

active noise cancellation

I've heard alot of people talk about this, none of them try it. Personally i'm very skeptical about the entire thing, plus not very enthusiastic about the piggy-bank breaking cost. If any of you brave souls out there wanna give it a try, document it for us.

I think that's all about sound blocking techniques.

Many building techniques use a combination of multiple walls, soft mounted walls, staggered walls, and insulation. look it up, some of them look promising but impossibly hard to do.

Theres more that i thought of on the 12 hour bus rides, but i can't remember any of it right now. I'll add if it comes to me.

In the next section i'll be actually much more step-oriented, and it'll really be more of a "guide". I'm going to construct my optical drive cage. This should be interesting. It should also take a long time since my exams are coming in a month heh. If it gets a bit too technical, give me a shout and i'll try to explain better. Unfortunately, i might start to use more complicated tools, since i have 2 machineshops at my disposal. Don't worry, i'll suggest suitable alternate tools for you guys.

There is one section i need some help with. I need an interface between a 5"1/4 IDE drive to USB cable. I also need an adaptor between a 120v wall mount and a 4pin molex power connector. I COULD buy a brand new 5"1/4 enclosure and then rip it all out, but it kinda seems like a waste to me at 50cdn... so i'm open to any suggestions. Don't mind paying around 25 cdn for it... lol my bank account is taking such a huge hit this month...

Before i forget! i also need a suggestion for a cheap way to measure the dBs my computer is making, and also if possible the frequency range. That way i'll know which foam to purchase. Thanks guys.
 

Bluefront

Golden Member
Apr 20, 2002
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First-off...there is no cheap way to measure the sound output of a computer. An accurate meter is very expensive. Also.....where can you do the measurements? Anything other than a quiet sound studio, really quiet, will add ambient sound to your measurements. This of course complicates the whole thing. You end up with a reading like 40dba, taken at three feet, with a ****meter, in a room with an ambient noise floor of 20dba. Pretty much meaningless.....

When you see a fan advertised as 14dba @ 2000rpm (by anybody), just have a good laugh. It means nothing. They probably pulled the figures out of thin air......or made the measurement from across the street.

I use all types of dampening materials in my computers......and I make certain there are few/no hard surfaces inside the case to reflect sound. But this is only after I build the computer with quiet components.
 

Talcite

Senior member
Apr 18, 2006
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ahh... thanks bluefront. I forgot about ambient noise. I'm planning to post blueprints and conceptual drawings of my optical drive enclosure as soon as i manage to restore my computer. After i came back from Miami, my parents somehow managed to reset BOTH adminstrator and user passwords, and now i'm trying a linux workaround... ugh.
 

Operandi

Diamond Member
Oct 9, 1999
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Originally posted by: BluefrontI use all types of dampening materials in my computers......and I make certain there are few/no hard surfaces inside the case to reflect sound. But this is only after I build the computer with quiet components.

This is an excellent point. Sound dampening/absorption is the last step you should take and is practically useless if you don't have very quiet components.

Honestly I don't think very many people here get their system low enough on the dBA scale for sound absorption materials to make any kind of meaningful difference.
 

Bluefront

Golden Member
Apr 20, 2002
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Effective dampening can help any system, no matter the components. One problem here is that most dampening solutions don't go far enough. I like to use Akasa foam in different applications, but it needs help. Here's an example of the foam used on a side panel. What's not visible is the heavy piece of outdoor carpet under the foam. The carpet adds mass/weight to the panel, providing a sound barrier. The Akasa foam on top of the carpet provides a sound absorption layer that the carpet alone, would not provide.

Many things to consider here....
 

Talcite

Senior member
Apr 18, 2006
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actually bluefront, that's almost exactly what i was considering heh. I was going to put some sound absorbing foam, or acoustic celing tile as suggested by others, and then place mass loaded vinyl under that.

I'm actually still looking for some. I live in Canada, and i've failed to find any souces of acoustic dampening material. any suggestions?
 

Bluefront

Golden Member
Apr 20, 2002
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Well I can't help you out in Canada.....but a trip to a large hardware or home improvement store such as Home Depot, will provide many useful dampening items. I've used closed cell foam floor mats, carpet padding, carpet pieces, vinyl floor tiles, heavy roofing felt, etc. I do avoid stuff likely to crumble, like acoustic ceiling tiles, or anything of fiberglass.

Real acoustic foam in thinner pieces is just not available here locally.....I have to order it. But I usually go for cheap local stuff.
 

Talcite

Senior member
Apr 18, 2006
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ok well i've got a prelim blueprint for a side view of the enclosure. This was done in corel draw. what a bad program for design lol. I'm going to redo it in auto cad when everything is said and done. CNC milling machine at my disposal, i'm going to use it to cut a plastic model of this case. for a template and display purposes only. the final job i'm doing in 3/8" art carving rubber. anyways, without furthur ado, here is the side view. Sorta confusing, sorry. red is case, green is optical drive, blue USB/IDE connector, black is cable. Side view of optical drive enclosure