A7N266-VM. WON'T power up. New rig for XMAS - HELP Pls!!

[pbaris]

Hello all -

I am building a new rig for Christmas...I have built 4 or 5 systems - no expert, but I know my way around a PC...I took the Anandtech recommended "value system": This Mobo, Antec SX600II case with the 300W ps, WD 80 GB HD (8 mb cache), Thermaltake Volcano 7+ sink/fan, 256 MB Crucial RAM, Lite-on CD R/W.

Put it all together, pushed the power button, and the case, PS and CPU fans all turned for 1 second - and then quit. Zip, zilch, nada. I have to turn the PS button off in back and wait for the green mobo led to go off to try again. I searched the archives, and have tried everything I could find...

1) double and triple checked the power button wires from the case to the mobo. I even tried reversing the wire directions.
2) Tried to reverse the reset sw leads with the power leads in case Antec mis-wired.
3) Double checked that the PS connector to the mob is properly seated and locked in place.
4) Bypassed Thermals variable speed CPU fan to put it directly onto the mobo.
5) Double checked that the PS is set for 115V and not 230V (yes, I got a PS supply once that somebody flipped the Switch on!)

I am stumped. Any thoughts or ideas what could be the problem? I just got separated and moved into an apartment, so my tools are limited right now...Why have power for 1 second but then stop cold?

Thanks - I am pulling my hair out - and I don't have much left!

Happy holidays...and any help would be greatly appreciated...

Paul

 

[DAPUNISHER]

First try reseating the CPU and Ram and disconnecting the power from the board and pulling the battery out to clear the CMOS, then if still no go try booting barebones outside of the case to eliminate a short as the problem, just place the board on a wood desk or on top of the box it came in to test it. If none of that works beg, borrow, or buy a different PSU to try and then a different CPU, and if needed RAM to eliminate 'em from the mix too. Good luck and post back how you make out

 

[pbaris]

Reseating everything? Wouldn't the PS power up even if the CPU was shot or there was no RAM? Wouldn't I get an error on the POST if the RAM or CPU was messed up? I will try clearing the CMOS...I could see how that would mess things up...

I always hate taking off the heat sink/cooler and reseating the CPU....that damn clip - always feels like I am going to break something!

Any other ideas out there that we might be missing?


Thanks

 

[RanDum72]

Do you have all the jumpers on correctly? The manual has a typo that has the wrong setting for the CPU.

 

[RideFree]

Check the power header for the CPU fan...make sure that it is on the correct header and that the RPM sensor lead is live.

The polarity on the power jumper needs to be correct for it to do anything but to pulse (like you have described here). This happened to me once and I had to D/L the manual in order to get it right.

 

[mechBgon]

The most likely reason is that the CPU's thermal sensor is indicating a thermal spike, which prompts the motherboard to cut off its electricity instantly. I've had that happen to me once with an A7N266-VM, and the cause was this: I forgot to take the plastic cover slip off of the thermal patch on the heatsink!

Another possible cause: maybe your heatsink is installed 180° backwards. The heatsink has a step cut into the base, and that step must be oriented to match the solid part of the CPU socket. Otherwise, it will be jacked up at one end and be unable to make square contact with the CPU core, not to mention that the thermal patch (if any) will be in the wrong place.

edit: Also, because the Volcano 7 comes disassembled, it is possible to put the heatsink on in the correct direction, but have the clip itself reversed. The clip is asymetrical. The pressure point must be located over the CPU core, which means the longer leg of the clip must be at the top. This is really important, so make sure the clip is oriented the right way.

I bet that's the issue, since I work all the time with that board/case combo, and it would be most natural to reverse the heatsink (edit: and/or the clip) so it's easier to clip down, with the screwdriver part of the clip on the bottom (wrong, but easy to reach) instead of the top (correct, but hard to reach). Good luck! And for the record, our CPU was fine after the ordeal, so I don't think you'll have any problems there.

By the way, welcome to the Forums, merry Christmas, and good choice on the system!

 

[RossGr]

Pull the mobo out of the case, hook up the minimum necessary components, ie, CPU/hsf, memory, vid card, and make the necessary connections, power, speaker, keyboard and mouse.

Place the mobo on an insulated surface (a piece of cardboard or the mobo box does well) now see if you can boot to BIOS,.

This is always a good way to fire up a mobo for the first time, it is much easer it acess components for reseating etc, and you do not have to worry about case shorts.

That would be the next thing to check, make sure that you do not have some unwanted contact with the case.

Good luck.

 

[pbaris]

Well - still no joy folks...lots of good suggestions, but same thing - although it does seem like the fans turn a bit longer - but probably wishful thinking! Here is what I have done:

RossGr - I always forget to hook everything up first outside the case - the eternal optimist that everything will work...Did this first to make everything else easier....Pulled the MB, put it on cardboard, just connected the PS header, chassis fan, CPU Fan, speaker, reset SW, power SW, mouse, monitor, (video is onboard), keyboard, RAM, and CPU. Same results

DAPUNISHER - Re-seated the CPU and RAM, removed the battery, unplugged the unit, manual shows a jumper to clear CMOS, but the board only has solder points. Shorted the two solder points with a paper clip - Same results.

RanDum72 - Verified the CPU/Bus jumpers were set correctly - they were. My manual had an update showing the correct settings. Same results

RideFree - The CPU fan is a little different set-up with the Volcano 7+. The 3 pin connector mates up with the fan speed controller. Only the red and black are in the connector. the fan speed controller then goes to a 4-pin connector directly to the PS (again, only a red & black wire.) The 3rd wire from the fan, the yellow (which should be the RPM sensor correct) is supposed to go to the CPU fan header according to Thermaltake. I have tried to bypass the fan controller and just put the red and black into the CPU fan header directly, but then there is no rpm sensor - so that won't work...and didn't. The wiring is such that I could just create one 3 pin connector and take that directly to the CPU fan header, and bypass the fan speed controller. I am assuming then that the fan would be at high speed all the time? Big problem though - since I just got separated, all my gear is at the ex's....and she's not home!!

Never replaced a 3 pin connector - do the wires just push in and snap into place or do I have to solder something....Is this worth doing? This would eliminate the fan speed controller as a potential problem...

mechBgon - Thanks for the great ideas - I had read many of your posts while researching systems and then potential answers, and was hoping you'd have the "Eureka!" I was REALLY hopeful after reading your post - seemed so likely for a rookie like me! ...but damn-it, I actually followed the pictures, and those were actually correct -who-da thunk!

First, the V7+ does not have any thermal patch - solid copper. Also, used Artic Silver 3 compound - just enough to cover the core.

Second, I put a copper shim in place - I always use them.

Third, the step cut in the base of the HS is pointed towards the PS (top) and towards the solid plastic part of the socket...Been through that one before...toasted a Socket 7 that way before....

Fourth, the clip is also installed correctly, with the screwdriver part of the clip pointed toward the PS (top) - making it a PITA to get to...Just to be sure...I verified from a side view that the pressure point is clearly over the core....I took everything off again just to re-verify, and to make sure I didn't get any silver compound on any pins or anything....

Well - Any more suggestions before I take it to somebody just because he has the damn equipment to check things like polarity and whether a wire is hot or not?!! These guys stick it to you pretty hard around here...$75 just to look at it - and a week!

Thanks for the great suggestions gang...I don't post much because I don't feel like I have anything to offer...but I read religiously, follow the recommendations on what to use, and then do what the more experienced out there suggesit....and I even buy from Anand's sponsors to try to show my support...

- dig any deeper??

thanks again

Paul

 

[Toro 45]

"Second, I put a copper shim in place - I always use them."

Might want to give it a try without the shim in case it's not allowing full contact.

Toro

 

[Dulanic]

Plug ANY fan that has a 3 pin connector into the CPU fan connector, some boards just wont boot up without it until you go into the BIOS and turn off the No boot /w no CPU fan installed option.

 

[DAPUNISHER]

pbaris, based on the amount of troubleshooting you've done, and if you're certain the CPU, RAM, and PSU are functional, I would suggest you RMA the board back to where you bought it from while you still can. Do not pay crazy money to have some local shop shaft you! they'll soak you for a $100+, there's no garantee they'll get it working, and they'll still charge you. You could buy a decent Sparkle PSU and new CPU for what you'd pay that shop and still have them as backups if they don't resolve your problems, that would be a far better investment IMO given a choice between the 2 I still say your first choice should be RMA and if the next one doesn't work either you'll know which components are suspect. Good luck whatever you do and Happy Holidays

 

[pbaris]

Okay - we keep pedalling...

Toro 45 - I thought about removing the shim after I posted - but no luck...

Dulanic - I like the sounds of that....only problem - these hosers want $20 for a wanky heat sink that looks like crap...I have to drive about 30 minutes to get to a CompUSA to get a fan...I tried using the PS fan - but that wouldn't work...only has 2 conductors.

The RPM Sensor from the V7+ goes to it's own connector...and the 2 power leads go to a second 3 pin connector...like this pic from Thermaltakes site... 7+

If I cut the wires and just hot wired them to the 3 pins, at least that would rule out the way the sink/fan is wired up...but then how do I put a 3-pin connector back on? I don't see any solder...looks like there are hooks or something.

DAPUNISHER - I agree - I will not take it to the local guys...I did that twice before...once to try and recover a disk, and I didn't have a floppy of Norton's...and I ended up showing them how to use it...and once because I had a bad flash...and again, I had to tell them about it - $75 buck, and I had to end up buying my own from badflash.com.....I just want it for Christmas, you know....

I guess we'll try the fan route...thoughts on the whole connector thing?

Thanks again

Paul

 

[DAPUNISHER]

In the spirit of the Holidays I'm not going to tell you that it's 99% certain you have a bad component and that you are SOOL, instead keep troubleshooting it 7 ways to sunday, try anything people suggest and perhaps you will have a Christmas miracle!

 

[chocoruacal]

Sounds like the two power supplies I've had go bad on me. Everything spins up for a second, then shuts right off. You could probably pick up a PS tester cheap locally...$10-$15 maybe. Other than that, I'd RMA the board

 

[mechBgon]

Thanks for the detailed replies pbaris.

I know for a fact that the A7N266-VM will boot with the CPU fan header vacant (not recieving any RPM signal). Try POSTing the system with the CPU fan not plugged into anything at all (but with the heatsink in place, of course)... maybe the fan has a short. I've caused inadvertent shutdowns in the past by letting an unoccupied 3-pin adapter short out on the case, and I'm wondering if that could be happening inside your fan.

The more likely place for a short to occur would be in the fan controller. I think you said you already tried bypassing the Thermaltake fan controller, but completely remove it also.

By the same reasoning, if you haven't tried it already, try POSTing with no drives or fans at all. Heck, try POSTing with no RAM, and maybe even with no CPU. If the power supply stays running, then maybe you can say EUREKA

Oh, and I have to be suspicious of the shim too. If it's the slightest bit too thick... :Q Good luck bro, you've got good troubleshooting mentality, keep trying!

 

[pbaris]

Well folks - I tried everything everyone suggested, and even went and got an Antec PS tester, and the PS checked out ok...so, I RMA'd the motherboard to NewEgg and we will see what shakes out!

Thanks to everyone for trying to help me out, and in the spirit of the holidays, continuing to try getting this to work...I guess we will wait for the new one to come back and see how it goes then!

Happy New Years!

Pb