A good wireless "router" (?) to attach to my current wireless router? ;)

[tami]

Nope, Transmit Power to 70 did nothing different than the default setting of 42. I literally take 22 steps (all in an open space--and I'm short, 5'1") and lose wifi connectivity entirely.

 

[KingFatty]

Perhaps the issue is not because of the router generating the signal. Instead, perhaps the issue is due to a source of noise/interference? So when you walk away from the router, there is still perfectly good signal there, but your device is overwhelmed by noise nearby?

I'd suggest using a hand-held wifi checker and look for congestion etc. too, but if there is random noise (i.e., *not* official wifi channels) then your wifi checker may not help identify if it even exists (like a noisy microwave oven or wireless phone, or some industrial thing you can't control). Are you in a congested area, maybe a wifi checker will show there are tons of channels you are competing with?

 

[s44]

Shibby is a bit bleeding edge with his builds and not the most stable. I would suggest Victek.

However, please realize that 70 is a *low* power for the N66. Try 200.

 

[tami]

Yeah, the drop is substantial in the kitchen. Hopefully it's not a microwave or fridge! The kitchen is closest room and that's where it drops precipitously.

My "wifi checker" to date has been my cell phone. Is there an app I can use there to check?

And no, it's not a congested area. This is in a house in the suburbs. Nothing else is even in range.

The max transmit power is 400. Should I go to that extreme or is there any danger in doing so?

 

[tami]

Wish I knew about Victek before I installed Shibby. Getting the firmware to install was a real pita so I may avoid that. I honestly was planning on using the original Tomato!

 

[s44]

Not sure. Much above 200 and you could have the issue of transmitting to places where the devices can't transmit back.

If you have Android, try Wifi Analyzer
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer
or inSSIDer
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=net.metageek

One thing that occurred to me on thinking of these apps is whether you're actually even looking at 2.4ghz strength. 5ghz falls off quickly... 2.4 much less so. 2.4ghz is susceptible to interference from microwave ovens, some wireless phones, and (ugh!) USB3 however.

Once you've installed one version of Tomato, switching to another is easy... just make sure you do it over wire, check the "erase NVRAM after flashing" box, and (with Asus routers) *wait* until the flash is complete and the thing comes back online - I've read that some units can take ~20 minutes.

 

[tami]

I've tried both 2.4GHz and 5GHz. I noticed the same - 5GHz has a much tighter range.

Let's see what happens here. Thanks.

and yes, thanks for correctly assuming I chose the better smartphone

 

[tami]

Okay, interesting stuff with WiFi Analyzer.

Right now, the phone is about 4 feet away from the router. I'm hovering between -40 and -50 dBm. I have a Chromecast a little bit "south" of here (I'm in a central room) that's at -73 dBm.

When I go *north* (that's the opposite direction of south--and farther away from the Chromecast), my Chromecast goes down to about -80dBm but so does my N66U (to about -80 dBm). In fact, there are pockets in my kitchen when my N66U has worse connection than my Chromecast -- and my Chromecast is much farther away plugged into the back of a TV.

Why is that happening?

 

[skriefal]

You may need to try a different positioning of the RT-N66U's antennas, and/or rotating the N66U itself clockwise or counter-clockwise by various amounts. The antennas are not perfectly omni-directional, regardless of what the router manufacturers state.

 

[tami]

Don't see much of a difference on repositioning the antennas :/

 

[PliotronX]

Sorry if you've tried these already, but have you changed to many channels and to N-only from mixed mode or something to that effect?

 

[tami]

Actually, nope! Haven't tried. GF-BRCM seems to be a *tad* better but not much...I don't have a clue what that is though.

 

[sep]

Tami, I'm not high jacking your thread and if you feel i am...tell me so and I'll backout and watch silently.

Does anyone else have this router without these issues?

Tami - can you go the opposite way (away from the kitchen) to see if it's not these applicance causing the drop?

 

[tami]

sep - no worries - it's fine So the question I really have is - why would Chromecast which is farther away not have the same issues I'm encountering with the N66U?

 

[tami]

No one knows?

 

[tami]

Still stuck here... could it be a bad router?

 

[JackMDS]

Still stuck here... could it be a bad router?

Any time when I buy a new Router I let it first work as is for few days before I load it with other Firmware and tinker around.

By doing so I have a frame of reference.


If i have problems as is I make sure that there a computer (or good laptop) in the same room to make sure that the Router meets its specs under defaults condition.

If it does not do well, it can be returned since I do not violate in the first few days the the terms of the warranty.

 

[tami]

What frame of reference are we looking for? I'm using the router versus my Chromecast which appears to have a stronger signal despite being physically located farther away. Is that a good frame of reference?

 

[tami]

Should I go to transmit power = 400? Or is that too high and dangerous for the router?

 

[tami]

I'm thinking it'd be best to just create a new thread for this, since I'm talking to myself and the subject of this thread is misleading...Jack, I don't suspect I'll get in trouble for double posting, will I?

 

[JackMDS]

I'm thinking it'd be best to just create a new thread for this, since I'm talking to myself and the subject of this thread is misleading...Jack, I don't suspect I'll get in trouble for double posting, will I?

Your Thread is No 2 in number of viewers in the last 10 days.

Its subject is adequate too.

Your problem is not taking systematic approach but rater dealing with minute tinkering as the suggestions go.

Comparing it to Chromcast is rather useless too.

I.e., I do not see how new thread would help.

 

[tami]

Jack - Only because I refresh it multiple times per day. I doubt there are many people looking at it

I'm not sure what tinkering is left. Suggestions?

 

[s44]

Should I go to transmit power = 400?

Yes.

Your problem is not taking systematic approach but rater dealing with minute tinkering as the suggestions go.

Exactly. Either the router is defective, or the firmware, or the setup/layout. Eliminate one at a time.

 

[tami]

Thanks s44. Will do.

 

[avos]

If you don't need 5ghz the Ubiquiti UniFi LR's are really good.

http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-UniFi-Access-UAP-LR-US-Version/dp/B005H4CDF4/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1408041390&sr=1-1&keywords=UniFi+LR

If you do need both bands I've had good luck with the UniFi Pro. Though I have noticed that the fans in the Pros are louder if that is a concern.