98 Ford Contour

[amdskip]

GF's car, took it for the mechanic and had him check it out.

Running on 3 cylinders. Very slow to accelerate. Mechanic says to: cleaning the throttle body/plate, clean the mass air flow sensor, replace plugs/wires.

I personally replaced the plugs last year and I think the wires are probably the factory wires which appeared ok the last time I checked them.

I think I'll pull the plugs and see what isn't firing and maybe put a hotter plug in it and possibly replace the wires. I'm also considering putting sea foam in it.

What does it take to clean the throttle body/plate and mass air flow sensor? It's had fuel injector cleaner in it and it's probably due for me.

Thanks for any help!

 

[desy]

You have to check wires by testing them on a machine.
They wear out with respect to their ability to carry the high voltage of spark plugs.
Simple continutiy testing isn't good enough but changing them is cheap

 

[Zenmervolt]

Putting in a hotter plug is not a fix. All that will do is increase the likelihood of a misfire. If changing the heat range of the plug helps, there is another issue that needs to be corrected (unless there are modifications to the engine that would require a different heat range of plug).

Throttle plate and MAF sensor are in the intake, and will not be cleaned by fuel injector cleaner. You will have to take apart the airbox to get at the throttle plate and the MAF sensor.

If the car has 100,000 miles, you should replace the plug wires as a matter of course. If the car uses a distributor, you should also replace the cap and rotor as well. If it uses a coil pack, then any malfunction there should have showed up in the ECU codes.

ZV

 

[alfa147x]

Originally posted by: Zenmervolt


Throttle plate and MAF sensor are in the intake, and will not be cleaned by fuel injector cleaner. You will have to take apart the airbox to get at the throttle plate and the MAF sensor.

How do you clean the body ?

 

[Pacfanweb]

Almost definitely the wires. With that mileage, I'd just replace them before I did anything else and see how it runs. Probably should go ahead and do the plugs again, too...if it's been dead missing, they might be fouled beyond saving.
Changing heat range won't help anything. Use what's supposed to go in there. Preferably use factory replacement plugs, failing that, use Autolite or NGK. Just make sure they are the EXACT crossover from the Motorcraft number, and not just "close".

You say her mechanic wants to clean the throttle body/plate, clean the mass air flow sensor, replace plugs/wires. That tells me that the wires are the real problem, and the other stuff just needs maintenance.
It's easy to clean the MAF (they make cleaner specifically for it) and the throttle body, but they aren't causing the problem.

 

[amdskip]

I had plug wires for it last year as a preventative thing but when I got around to it they were the wrong style or something and wouldn't fit. The boots had some sort of lock I think but I can't remember for sure. The plugs in there now are autolites.

 

[billyzbear]

Cleaning the throttle plate will help the idle RPM. Carb cleaner and tooth brush with car off, hold throttle all the way open when you restart until it runs.
Fords have a problem with mass air flow sensors getting dirty. They are right after the air filter going torwards the motor. I believe it's in that black canister thing. It will have two don't mess with me torque screws, you need a hollow t20 or t25. Clean with electric contact cleaner when cold. This will help with air fuel mix. Like a lean missfire. Usually it will have a slight hesitation while you accelerate and cruise.
Autolites are good. Platiums? If it had Plat's when new use Plat's. Should be good for around 30,000 regular and 75,000 plat. Could/should pull them out to atleast look at them. You can tell a lot on how a car runs from plugs. Color ect...
Wires can be tricky. If you have more than 100,000 mile on it you should replace them. There are test you can do but a scope would be nice. Do you have a ohm meter? How about a test light and some 5/32" hose? Harber Frieght sells a cheap little tester. A light bulb lights everytime there is a spark.
It could be compression but you'll need a tester. If the idle is good it's not compression.

Billy

 

[JulesMaximus]

Originally posted by: billyzbear
Cleaning the throttle plate will help the idle RPM. Carb cleaner and tooth brush with car off, hold throttle all the way open when you restart until it runs.
Fords have a problem with mass air flow sensors getting dirty. They are right after the air filter going torwards the motor. I believe it's in that black canister thing. It will have two don't mess with me torque screws, you need a hollow t20 or t25. Clean with electric contact cleaner when cold. This will help with air fuel mix. Like a lean missfire. Usually it will have a slight hesitation while you accelerate and cruise.
Autolites are good. Platiums? If it had Plat's when new use Plat's. Should be good for around 30,000 regular and 75,000 plat. Could/should pull them out to atleast look at them. You can tell a lot on how a car runs from plugs. Color ect...
Wires can be tricky. If you have more than 100,000 mile on it you should replace them. There are test you can do but a scope would be nice. Do you have a ohm meter? How about a test light and some 5/32" hose? Harber Frieght sells a cheap little tester. A light bulb lights everytime there is a spark.
It could be compression but you'll need a tester. If the idle is good it's not compression.

Billy

Probably be cheaper and less hassle to just replace the plug wires and be done with it.

 

[Vetterin]

I would check your ignition coil pack. FWIW, I bought a 98 SVT and had it until 2006 and it was one of the best cars I have ever owned.