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97 dodge interpid

sonoma1993

Diamond Member
My dad ac/heater blower fan went out in his 97 dodge interpid. And he not to sure were it is located at, like if he can get to it from the engine compartment or does he have to take like the dashboard and glove box out to get access to the ac/heater blower fan. Anyone know where exactly to get access to the ac/heater fan so we can change it out?
 
I can get a detailed step by step when im at work tomorrow


but it would be in the glove box

but before he/you do this did you check the fuse/relay?
 
Originally posted by: SpeedEng66
I can get a detailed step by step when im at work tomorrow


but it would be in the glove box

but before he/you do this did you check the fuse/relay?

my dad said he checked the fuse/relay, both were fine.
 
if you crawl and look under the glove box you will see the blower motor

there might be a connector thats held in by 2-4 little bolts (10mm) if you have a test light or a dvom check to see if there's power.

I can recall that resistor went bad on quite a few chrysler vehicles

I will send you a printout in the morn..
 
1. The bolts are probably 8mm, but maybe they're 10's.

2. If the blower only works on high, it's the resistor. Still could be the resistor anyway, though. I'd replace both if you're going to put the blower motor on, too.
 
Originally posted by: SpeedEng66
if you crawl and look under the glove box you will see the blower motor

there might be a connector thats held in by 2-4 little bolts (10mm) if you have a test light or a dvom check to see if there's power.

I can recall that resistor went bad on quite a few chrysler vehicles

I will send you a printout in the morn..

thanks speedeng66
 
BLOWER MOTOR RESISTOR
Vehicles with manual air conditioning (Non-ATC) systems will have a blower motor resistor. The resistor is located on the lower right side of the heater housing
 
BLOWER MOTOR RESISTOR
REMOVAL
Remove lower right underpanel silencer/duct.
Disconnect wiring connectors on blower motor resistor.
Remove blower motor resistor retaining screws.
Pull blower motor resistor out of heater housing
 
BLOWER MOTOR AND WHEEL ASSEMBLY
The blower motor is located on the right side of the heater housing. The blower motor and the blower motor wheel must be replaced as an assembly.

REMOVAL
Disconnect battery.
Remove lower right under panel silencer duct.
Remove blower motor connector from resistor block Blower Motor Wiring
Squeeze blower motor wiring grommet and push grommet through blower motor housing cover Wiring Grommet
Remove blower motor housing cover Blower Motor Cover
Remove blower motor retaining screws.
Lower blower motor from housing Blower Motor
INSTALLATION
For installation, reverse the above procedures.

Some vehicles may exhibit a whistling noise from the heater housing unit. This noise is most noticeable with the fan in the mid-range speed and the blend air door in the high temperature position. If this noise occurs, proceed with the Sealing Procedure.

SEALING PROCEDURE
This repair involves sealing the seam between the upper and lower heater/AC housings.

Remove the blower motor and wheel assembly.
Apply strip caulking (Dum-Dum) to all seam areas around the blower wheel housing and evaporator housing. The seams can be reached from the blower motor opening. Do not add an excessive amount which will restrict airflow.
 
MANUAL A/C CONTROL SELF DIAGNOSTICS
The manual air conditioning system (Non-ATC Systems) have built in self diagnostics. Use the following procedures to access and test the system. All diagnostic trouble codes will be displayed through the rear window defogger switch LED light Control Knobs

In order to perform any tests, the control head must be placed in its diagnostic mode. To access the diagnostic mode perform the following steps:

Start the engine and allow it to run during the entire test. The vehicle must not be moving during this test.
The left knob (Blower control) must be placed to any speed setting. Do not place the knob to the off position.
The center knob (Temp knob) must be placed in the full cool position.
The right knob (Mode control) must be placed in the defrost mode.
The A/C button on the control head can be in the on or off position.
Press the rear window defogger switch and hold for three to five seconds. The rear window defogger switch light will begin to flash. Release the button when the light begins to flash. The system is now in the diagnostic mode. The following steps must be used to diagnose the system. To abort the diagnostic mode either:
Turn the blower switch to the off position
Push the A/C or rear window defogger button once
Or change either the temperature selector or mode selector settings
When the diagnostic mode is first entered, the rear window defogger switch will flash for approximately 30 seconds. During this time the actuators are being calibrated and checked. If calibration is successful the light will go out. If the rear window defogger switch light has gone out skip to Step 10 of this procedure. If the light remained on continue with this test.
If there is an unsuccessful calibration, the rear window defogger switch light will remain on. This indicates that a problem is present in an actuator or there is an internal control head problem.
To determine where the problem in the system is:
Move the mode actuator knob to the mix position. If the rear window defogger switch light remains on this indicates that there is an internal problem with the control head. If the light goes out the control head electronics are good.
Move the mode actuator knob to the floor position. If the rear window defogger switch light remains on this indicates that the blend door actuator wiring or HVAC blend (Temp) door has a problem. If the rear window defogger switch light goes off in this position indicates that the blend door actuator and circuits are good.
Move the mode actuator knob to the Bi-Level position. If the rear window defogger switch light remains on this indicates that the mode actuator and/or circuit has a problem. If the rear window defogger switch light goes off in this position indicates that the mode actuator, HVAC mode door and circuits are good. The recirculation actuator can be checked after completing the following control knob test.
CAUTION: Step 10 (mode actuator knob test) and step 11 (temperature knob test) cannot be performed if test in step 8 (unsuccessful calibration) occurs. One must fix problem of step 8 before testing mode and temperature knob operation.

To check the mode actuator knob perform the following:
Run Calibration diagnostics.
Place the mode actuator knob in the mix mode. The rear window defogger switch light should flash twice and then pause. It should continue this two flash sequence. This indicates that the mix mode has no problems.
Place the mode actuator knob in the floor mode. The rear window defogger switch light should flash three times and then pause. It should continue this three flash sequence. This indicates that the floor mode has no problems.
Place the mode actuator knob in the Bi-Level mode. The rear window defogger switch light should flash four times and then pause. It should continue this four flash sequence. This indicates that the Bi-Level mode has no problems.
Place the mode actuator knob in the Panel mode. The rear window defogger switch light should flash five times and then pause. It should continue this five flash sequence. This indicates that the Panel mode has no problems.
Place the mode actuator knob in the Recirculate Panel mode. The rear window defogger switch light should flash six times and then pause. It should continue this six flash sequence. This indicates that the Recirculate Panel mode has no problems.
Place the mode actuator knob in the Recirculate Bi-Level mode. The rear window defogger switch light should flash seven times and then pause. It should continue this seven flash sequence. This indicates that the Recirculate Bi-Level mode has no problems.
To check the temperature control knob perform the following:
Place the mode actuator knob in the defrost position.
Slowly turn the temperature control knob clockwise while observing the rear window defogger switch light. As you turn the knob clockwise the rear window defogger switch light should begin flashing. It will continue to flash faster as the knob is turned. Once the knob reaches full heat the rear window defogger switch light will go out.
Switch the mode actuator knob between panel and recirculate panel and observe the recirculation door for movement. If the door moves correctly the recirculation door actuator and circuits are good.
To exit the diagnostic mode either turn off the blower or push the A/C or rear window defogger button once.
If the scan tool is to be used, refer to the proper LH Body Diagnostic Manual for proper procedures. The following Scan Tool Flow Chart is a sample of the items that can be tested with the scan tool Scan Tool Flow Chart - Manual A/C Control

NOTE: The scan tool cannot be used to check the manual - a/c control or manual - a/c, Hvac door operations.
 
A/C-HEATER CONTROL (MANUAL)
Power for the A/C-Heater control is supplied by circuit F20. This circuit is protected by a 10 amp fuse located in cavity 6 of the junction block. This fuse is HOT in the RUN position only.

Power for the fuse is supplied by circuit A22 from the ignition switch. The power for the A22 circuit is supplied by circuit A2 from the Power Distribution Center (PDC) The A2 circuit is protected by a 40 amp fuse located in cavity J of the PDC.

Illumination for the control is supplied on circuits E2 and L7. The E2 circuit is controlled by the Body Control Module (BCM) and the dimmer control. Circuit L7 is the parking lamps illumination and is controlled by the BCM.

Ground for the control is provided on two circuits. They are the Z1 and Z2 circuits. These circuits terminate at the Airbag Control Module (ACM) bracket.
 
Thanks a lot, SpeedEng66, I'm going to use that diagnostic on my Chrysler to see if it can tell me anything 🙂
 
Originally posted by: nakedfrog
Thanks a lot, SpeedEng66, I'm going to use that diagnostic on my Chrysler to see if it can tell me anything 🙂

what model/ year?
and whats the problem

I can get some charts thats for your car 😉
 
Originally posted by: SpeedEng66
Originally posted by: nakedfrog
Thanks a lot, SpeedEng66, I'm going to use that diagnostic on my Chrysler to see if it can tell me anything 🙂

what model/ year?
and whats the problem

I can get some charts thats for your car 😉

hey do you have the instructions for the 97 interpids that come with the automatic climate control?
 
ATC POWER MODULE/BLOWER MOTOR (ATC)
Power for the ATC power module, and the blower motor, is supplied on circuit C1. This circuit is protected by a 25 amp fuse located in cavity 21 of the junction block. Power for the fuse is supplied on circuit A22 from the ignition switch. This circuit is HOT in the RUN position only.

Power for the A22 circuit is supplied by circuit A2 from the Power Distribution Center (PDC) The A2 circuit is protected by a 40 amp fuse located in cavity J of the PDC.

Ground for the power module is supplied on circuit Z1. This circuit terminates at the Airbag Control Module (ACM) bracket.

Circuit C56 is used for blower motor speed control. This circuit connects from the Body Control Module (BCM) to the power module.

Blower motor speed is determined by the BCM based on the position of the fan switch located in the control head.
 
A/C OPERATION (ATC)
When the A/C is turned ON, or the Defrost is turned ON, a message is sent across the CCD Bus to the Body Control Module (BCM) requesting A/C operation.

The BCM then looks at the temperature of the evaporator through the evaporator temperature sensor, located in the A/C-Heater housing. The BCM uses circuit C12 to send a signal to the sensor and circuit C57 as the sensor return to the BCM.

If the evaporator temperature sensor is in the normal limits the BCM sends a signal to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), across the CCD Bus, requesting A/C operation.

After receiving this input, the PCM activates the A/C compressor by grounding the C28 circuit, which is connected to the coil side of the A/C clutch relay. This relay is located in the Power Distribution Center (PDC)

Power for the coil side of the relay is supplied on circuit F18. This circuit is protected by a 10 amp fuse located in cavity 20 of the junction block. This fuse is HOT in the RUN position only.

When the coil is energized, contacts in the relay CLOSE connecting circuits A16 and C2. Circuit A16 is protected by a 40 amp fuse located in cavity D of the PDC and also supplies power for the radiator fan relays. The C2 circuit connects from the relay to the A/C compressor clutch.

The A/C compressor clutch receives this current and creates a magnetic field, energizing the clutch. The A/C compressor clutch is case grounded to the A/C compressor.

The A/C compressor clutch has a diode located in it. This diode is used to control the induced voltage resulting from the magnetic field collapsing when the clutch is disengaged.

The A/C compressor clutch relay is also used by the PCM to disengage the compressor in a Wide-Open Throttle (W.O.T.) condition.

HELPFUL INFORMATION
Check the 10 amp fuse located in cavity 20 of the junction block.

Check the 40 amp fuse located in cavity D of the PDC.

Check the 25 amp fuse located in cavity 21 of the junction block.

Check for a good ground at the ACM bracket.

Check for a good ground at the left front frame rail.

Check the A/C refrigerant level. The system will not operate with a low level of refrigerant.
 
ATC SELF DIAGNOSTICS
The ATC system can be diagnosed two ways. The scan tool (DRB) can be used or the vehicle's own control head display may be used. If the scan tool is to be used, refer to the proper LH Body Diagnostic Manual.

The control head can only be placed into the diagnostic mode while the engine is running and the vehicle is not moving. Set the control to a 75°F. setting (so there is no confusion with 23-36 Diagnostic Trouble Codes)

To place the system into it's diagnostic mode, press and hold the floor, mix and defrost buttons (at the same time) The ATC head display will begin to blink Entering Self-Diagnostic Mode When the control head display begins to blink release the floor, mix and defrost buttons. Once the control head enters diagnostic mode, the display on the control head will continue to blink. This occurs until it completes its tests and calibrations. Then it will display any diagnostic trouble codes that are present in the BCM. If there are no diagnostic trouble codes the system will return to its normal operation as indicated by temperature display.

Diagnostic trouble codes related to the ATC system will appear on the display in numerical form. The diagnostic trouble codes are stored in the BCM and diagnostic trouble code numbers can range between 23 and 36 Diagnostic Trouble Code Chart for The control head can only show one diagnostic trouble code at a time. Under certain circumstances more than one diagnostic trouble code could be in the memory. To scroll through any additional diagnostic trouble codes, press the panel button.

If diagnostic trouble codes are found, refer to the proper LH Body Diagnostic Manual for repair procedures.

The control head cannot display all diagnostic trouble codes stored with in the BCM. There may be other diagnostic trouble codes in the BCM not related to the ATC system. These codes can only be found using the scan tool.

ERASING DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES
Diagnostic trouble codes can be cleared from the memory two ways:

The scan tool
Power to the BCM can be disconnected for ten minutes (disconnect battery)
If the scan tool is to be used, refer to the proper LH Body Diagnostic Manual for procedures.

CAUTION: Fault code 26 can be created if the sensor is disconnected while it is running; this will result in the control head display disappearing. To correct, clear fault code 26 from the body controller.

The following Scan Tool Flow Charts are a sample of the areas that be tested with the scan tool. Using the Select System screen press 3 for Body, Scan Tool Flow Chart - ATC - 3 Body shows the items that can be tested. Pressing 9 for Climate Control, Scan Tool Flow Chart - ATC - 9 Climate Control and Scan Tool Flow Chart - ATC - Climate System Test shows the items that can be tested.
 
ATC IN-CAR TEMPERATURE SENSOR
The ATC system uses various sensors which return electrical signals to the Body Control Module. The In-Car Temperature Sensor is used on ATC equipped vehicles only. It is located behind the name plate on the right side of the instrument panel Nameplate

The In-Car Temperature Sensor is part of a motorized aspirator assembly that is mounted in the instrument panel. A small fan (in the sensor) draws air through an intake on the instrument panel (behind name plate) This air flows over a thermistor which measures interior vehicle temperatures In-Car Temperature Sensor The ATC system then makes adjustments to maintain the optimum passenger compartment comfort.

The In-Car sensor will automatically turn on when a vehicle door is opened. If the door is left open, the In-Car Sensor will automatically turn off within approximately 5 minutes. If the door is then closed, but there is no ignition start, the In-Car Sensor will automatically turn off after approximately 2 minutes. After the vehicle has been driven, the In- Car Sensor will turn off immediately when the ignition is turned off. The aspirator motor in the In-Car Sensor operates whenever the ignition switch is ON (even when the ATC system OFF button is pushed)

If the In-Car sensor is open or shorted on this system, the digital display will turn off. Then the system defaults to manual operation. Refer to Owner's Manual for system operating instructions.

The In-Car Temperature Sensor assembly is not serviceable and must be replaced if found to be defective.
 
IN CAR TEMPERATURE SENSOR
Power for the in car temperature sensor is supplied from the Body Control Module (BCM) on circuit C10.

Circuit C57 is the sensor return and is spliced with the other sensors in the system and the BCM.
 
ATC IN-CAR TEMPERATURE SENSOR
Perform air flow test.
Turn ignition to the ON position and push the OFF button to stop the ATC system airflow. This will make it easier to observe paper in the Step 2.
Place a small piece of tissue paper in front of the sensor opening. If the tissue sticks to the opening, the In-Car sensor is aspirating properly.
Check if the electrical connection and connector are OK.
Check for the two foam seals and their condition, it is absolutely necessary for proper sensor operation.
Seal on the inside surface directly behind the nameplate.
Seal (strip) located directly to the right of the right center duct opening (instrument panels with trim bezels)
 
ATC IN-CAR TEMPERATURE SENSOR
REMOVAL
Remove right side instrument panel trim end cap Trim Cap Removal
Remove right trim bezel from instrument panel Trim Cap Removal It is held in place by friction and a screw.
Remove sensor retaining screws.
Pull out sensor from instrument panel and disconnect wiring.
INSTALLATION
For installation, reverse the above procedures.
 
Originally posted by: SpeedEng66
Originally posted by: nakedfrog
Thanks a lot, SpeedEng66, I'm going to use that diagnostic on my Chrysler to see if it can tell me anything 🙂

what model/ year?
and whats the problem

I can get some charts thats for your car 😉

04 Sebring sedan, on really hot days the air blows cold (not ice cold, but cold), but then will warm up for a few seconds, then cold again for a minute, then not so cold, etc. Fan also doesn't work on 1, but I'm pretty sure that's just the resistor and that's not a big enough deal for me to fuss with 😛
 
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