90% sure my inner cv joints are shot, need advice concerning them.

[mopardude87]

Working on a 2000 Corolla that appears to have solid front suspension minus 4 shot motor mounts that aren't in severe shape but need replacing. I say solid front cause both rear struts are shot. Been dealing with a vibrating up front usually when i accelerate but stops when i let off the gas. Last few days suddenly i can hear almost like a pop/clank sound on some but not all turns on the driver. Doing some research and clearing everything else i came across this video and at 0:25 my driver especially makes this noise and my passenger a bit.

Seems like a state secret as most searching for cv axles focus on clicking on the outer while the inner apparently has been known for a vibrating with few solid videos and so far Scottys video is the most convincing as mine does sound exactly like that on the driver side. The recent popping/clank noise has pointed me to the cv axles anyways and while i have a little experience with clicking ones, this one is a bit new. I haven't done the circle test yet but today i will i guess. Been kind of busy and need to find a empty lot anyways to perform it.

Anyone know some sure tips on checking the slop and play? This one has been a bit all over on advice checking them but i certainly have heard it. I messed with the cv axles yesterday and both sides make plenty of noise on a forward and back tug. I guess a left to right wouldn't make a difference then some say it does? Not exactly any sure fire information. All the focus on bad cv axles is on clicking mainly apparently when you google it. One guy mentioned in a video his vibrating got worst the longer he drove it and i swear that kind of experience has happened to me as well.

Sadly need the car to make some store runs,with this sound its not going to far but won't be able to fix it for a couple weeks but i got all the time in the world to troubleshoot. Any tips or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

[BonzaiDuck]

Your Corolla is 20 years old. Did you get under the car with a shop light and examine the CV Joint Boots? I cannot imagine that your Corolla's CV Joints are that much different in general design from others, and they must have rubber boots around the flexible bearings.

Usually, if the boot is damaged and you can catch it in time, the loss of grease that lubricates the joint will not have contributed to significant damage, and you can replace the boot.

However, repair shops don't do this anymore. The labor required to remove and disassemble a CV Joint for installation of a new boot is approximately equal to or greater than the price of simply replacing the entire CV Joint axle fitted with fresh grease and a fresh boot.

For those folks who only want to replace their CV Joint boot, I recommend investigating a product by NAPA, which is a "split boot" made of a lavender-colored plastic. Mechanics recommend against using these, or rather they refuse to use them for customers. But the tube of glue that comes with the split-boot is not just glue: it fuses the plastic material. And the boot will last a very, very long time -- probably much longer than OEM boots.

Put it another way. If you find the boots are cracked or split, then simply replace the entire joint axle-- which is what your mechanic will recommend anyway. If there is damage to the bearings, replacing the grease and installing a split boot won't get rid of your symptoms. Further, if the boots are damaged, you NEED to replace the boots or the assembly, anyway, even if it doesn't make your symptoms disappear.

 

[crashtech]

Reman axles are so cheap, there's hardly any reason to repair a vehicle like that any other way. Also when the axles are out it's a great time to put hub bearings in it. That knocks out a lot of causes of driveline noise all at once.

 

[mopardude87]

Your Corolla is 20 years old. Did you get under the car with a shop light and examine the CV Joint Boots?

Usually, if the boot is damaged and you can catch it in time, the loss of grease that lubricates the joint will not have contributed to significant damage, and you can replace the boot.

Put it another way. If you find the boots are cracked or split, then simply replace the entire joint axle-- which is what your mechanic will recommend anyway. If there is damage to the bearings, replacing the grease and installing a split boot won't get rid of your symptoms. Further, if the boots are damaged, you NEED to replace the boots or the assembly, anyway, even if it doesn't make your symptoms disappear.

Yeah i inspected the boots and did find some hairline cracks. I had it in park at the time of inspection so i didn't rotate it in neutral and have a 360 look all around but the little i saw there was some cracking but no visible rips . Maybe there is one i missed given i didn't rotate them all the way. The driver side axles especially closer to the inner made quite a bit more noise then the passenger and there was much more play all around when i moved it front to back. I had been hearing a odd clickily clackity sound sometimes on acceleration and it does sound like the axles when i give them a bit of a shake too.

From repair videos as long as i pick up a few more tools its something i could certainly tackle. I might get quotes before i do it myself as i need quite a few tools. Biggest thing is finding a reputable cheap priced brand of complete cv axles preferably not reman as i have heard horror stories with those. Going to replace both i mind as well.

 

[WilliamM2]

I've never had any issues with remanufactured axles. They always lasted as long as I owned the car.

New ones are probably only available at the dealer $$$, I wouldn't even consider it on a 20 year old car. I don't even think you can buy aftermarket axles that are "new".

 

[mopardude87]

I've never had any issues with remanufactured axles. They always lasted as long as I owned the car.

New ones are probably only available at the dealer $$$, I wouldn't even consider it on a 20 year old car. I don't even think you can buy aftermarket axles that are "new".

I found these and they claim to be brand new with new parts.

2000 Toyota Corolla Front Driver & Passenger Side 2 Piece CV Axle Assembly Set TRQ CSA82452

Order your 2 Piece CV Axle Assembly Set - today at 1AAuto.com. Up To 50% Off Prices EveryDay! Get Fast & Free Shipping On Premium Quality Parts. Shop Now & Save!

www.1aauto.com

I just picked up a crankshaft position sensor earlier this month from them, it was a new unit and of pretty good quality and good price. Shipped pretty quickly too and their prices smashed whatever Autozone wanted for their crap. Paid like half of what Autozone wanted for the sensor no joke.

 

[BonzaiDuck]

I've had aftermarket parts and remanufactured parts. With something like an alternator, you have to be picky.

But an axle/CV-joint assembly with boot? It would be hard to Eff up the remanufacture of such an item, for its simplicity. What would you replace? The bearings? Other parts that wear with the bearings?

Back in my days with the fleet of '79 Civics, I'd go to the junkyard and find a transaxle. Then I'd clean it up with carb cleaner and whatever took the axle grease off it, add new grease and a boot with bands. Never had one of those salvage parts go bad.

Of course, that was then -- this is now . . .

[Geez, it makes me feel low-class -- the things I did back then. I remember I put down about 15 layers of Washington Post on my kitchen floor to work on that transaxle . . . The next day, I was making a dozen pumpkin pies . . . Then there's the story about my father -- mechanic turned insurance man -- about "taking apart and putting together an engine blind-folded" -- in the freaking kitchen . . . Like father like son. I suppose. That has to be my uncle's legend -- a myth. Nobody can rebuild an engine blindfolded . . . But I believe the kitchen-floor part . . . ]

 

[crashtech]

Literally everyone uses reman axles, it's probably one of the least controversial decisions you could make on a vehicle parts selection. If there really is a horror story, I'm guessing it was limited to one manufacturer at the specific time, and the problem has long been rectified.
BTW, I say this as a repairer that uses a great deal of OEM parts, when it's appropriate.

 

[mopardude87]

I've had aftermarket parts and remanufactured parts. With something like an alternator, you have to be picky.

But an axle/CV-joint assembly with boot? It would be hard to Eff up the remanufacture of such an item, for its simplicity. What would you replace? The bearings? Other parts that wear with the bearings?

From what i gathered in research the bucket or whatever the part is called that holds the inner bearings receives damage over time and causes the play i am finding currently on that driver side. Then of course that causes the vibration in turn.

I drove to the store earlier windows rolled down and clear as day certainly heard the axle clicking on a right turn. Wasn't even a sharp turn more of a casual turn. No doubt now while there was a bit cause of other noises prob from the inner?

As far as what i will replace the entire thing on the driver the passenger seems fine but it might be best prob to replace the set? Car appears to have been driven like any other Toyota and repairs are put off till they are absolutely needed apparently so much of the car is original with its 210k miles.

 

[BonzaiDuck]

From what i gathered in research the bucket or whatever the part is called that holds the inner bearings receives damage over time and causes the play i am finding currently on that driver side. Then of course that causes the vibration in turn.

I drove to the store earlier windows rolled down and clear as day certainly heard the axle clicking on a right turn. Wasn't even a sharp turn more of a casual turn. No doubt now while there was a bit cause of other noises prob from the inner?

As far as what i will replace the entire thing on the driver the passenger seems fine but it might be best prob to replace the set? Car appears to have been driven like any other Toyota and repairs are put off till they are absolutely needed apparently so much of the car is original with its 210k miles.

This isn't coming from someone with salaried experience in a shop. But I seldom replaced both the transaxles in any of my Civics, and my now-retired Master Mechanic would only replace them one at a time -- when there was a need to do it.

I'd have to give more thought to the pros and cons of replacing both. But it's a balancing act. They charge you independently for each single transaxle replaced. Unless there's some special convenience to you in particular, I'd just repair the bad transaxle.

I've told this story before. Two friends -- illiterate mechanic and DIY mechanic -- were driving around in Northern Virginia during the winter. They found a Honda Accord parked at a curb, and from the different layers of snow on it determined that it hadn't been driven for a while. They began to entertain the notion that the car might be easily purchased. They went to the front door. The owner said there was something wrong with the car, and by the symptom description, the illiterate mechanic divined that a transaxle had been pulled loose from the gear splines. He knew that he could simply get under the car and push it back into its locked position.

So they bought the car for $300, and then drove it away. It had the design appearance of a Mercedes with a delicate light yellow paint color, and I might have had it for myself with some fair tribute in ducats to my two compadres. Instead, I brokered the sale of the car for a share of the booty, and we sold it for $3,000.

Maybe you should get under the car and see if there's something like that amiss. The transaxles lock into the gear splines with a wire spring clip -- you've probably seen one yourself at one time or the other. Give it some push and pull to see if it's loose. I wouldn't know for sure if your symptoms correspond to what I don't even remember as reported by my old friends. And the cars in my storied experience are all pre-1990.

 

[mopardude87]

This isn't coming from someone with salaried experience in a shop. But I seldom replaced both the transaxles in any of my Civics, and my now-retired Master Mechanic would only replace them one at a time -- when there was a need to do it.

Maybe you should get under the car and see if there's something like that amiss. The transaxles lock into the gear splines with a wire spring clip -- you've probably seen one yourself at one time or the other. Give it some push and pull to see if it's loose. I wouldn't know for sure if your symptoms correspond to what I don't even remember as reported by my old friends. And the cars in my storied experience are all pre-1990.

Cause of budget,i decided i will replace the driver only for now. I have heard advice that replacing the set together is good but idk the passenger seems fine. As far as that clip is concerned,i will certainly check it out first thing in the morning. Now if that was causing the clear clicking i was hearing idk. It doesn't always make that noise that is for certain it just likes to shake more then anything. The clicking was new but the other foreign noises still have me confused.

I watched videos involving the clip so i am familiar with it. My axle has the notches where the end of a tire iron would be perfect to wedge on it with a hammer or some force perhaps. I guess a good push is prob more then enough. Not wanting to test feat by perhaps cracking the cup.

If it is a clip issue and its resolved,i certainly will owe you one. Given the motor mounts are kind of shot on this and rear struts its been kind of pushed and the idea of the clip coming out does certainly make sense. If that resolves the issue then holy heck i will be beyond thrilled. If not fixed well Carquest has one for i think $60 or $48 if i order online with their coupon. I know a cheap shop down the way who quoted me $50 for a rear motor mount job on a friends 97 corolla if i had part in hand, this axle could prob be put on for about the same with luck.

If the clip is all that is causing this issue then replacing the mounts is priority cause if that motor and tranny are torquing and moving about, that might have been what pulled out that axle in the first place right? I would think so. Its certainly on the list anyways before or after the axle. Then its on to the rear struts and from there a single 5amp fuse fixes the radio and its officially a clean it all works vehicle.

I will update involving the clip. Thanks for pointing that out. That is the kind of advice or tip i had been looking for.

 

[Jimzz]

I've never had any issues with remanufactured axles. They always lasted as long as I owned the car.

New ones are probably only available at the dealer $$$, I wouldn't even consider it on a 20 year old car. I don't even think you can buy aftermarket axles that are "new".

Actually its harder to find remans now VS new. Chinese have swamped the market on axles, all being new. Cost to much to ship, rebuild, and try to warrant them VS just making a new casting and shipping once.

Part stores also like new as they do not have to ship back anything. Sell part and thats it.

 

[mopardude87]

Yikes i am going to apologize right now for the time you guys put into helping me with potential cv axle issues. I have been on a new medication for anxiety and between essentially no sleep this last week or so with 2 hours if that this morning its just missing with my usually good concentration. Its most certainly not the cv axles.

I swore i did a good look over on the suspension but while checking out the clip for the cx i found them find to be fine and in . Then i found it. I had light from a cell phone this time and while i thought it was fine i found out the round bushing for my driver side control arm bushing is more less almost completely gone. When i mean gone you could see through what was rubber surroundingand see the underside of the floor of the car through at least 60% of the bushing or what was left. The passenger side looks like someone went at it with a flat head or something as some of that rubber is missing as well and with a crow bar wedged in there and 2 fingers i can get some reasonable play out of it with little effort.

I guess this makes sense now, it pulls to the right more then anything and that is the side with the most play. I saw enough play where i swear the bushing has torn from the metal frame and its just sitting. It's not missing tons of rubber around the bolt like the driver but yeah. The clank i hear in reverse is obviously motor mounts and its not constant like the noise. Its funny i have been hearing tons of squeaking and its sounding like the bushing when i miss with it on the driver side.

Man i feel like a real jackass and once again i apologize if i wasted anyones time. Luckily i have helped do a control arm replacement on a buick park avenue so i got experience and most likely the tools i need. Geez i need some sleep. Should be fine to drive for a reasonable while right?

 

[crashtech]

Fair enough, glad you found the problem before wasting money on unneeded parts.

 

[mopardude87]

Fair enough, glad you found the problem before wasting money on unneeded parts.

Your telling me! I went to Pick Your part out of curiosity to see if i found any cars perhaps with a new set of these or close to. No such luck but figured i would take one of those off and it was easy enough. I forgot i had a breaker bar and a 17/19mm was really all that was holding it in place minus the balljoint and the pin. Kind of rusty with tooling so i figured it was a good idea before tackling on my own vehicle!

Gonna get some cash for my RTX2070 today so that should easily cover my mounts and the control arms. 2070 was overkill for 1080p given i lost my 4k monitor and quite honestly i have quit gaming as of lately. Only game i technically play now runs on a potato or HD630. I rather have a fixed up car then the computer part or waiting weeks on end for cash for repairs.

Now to find this part locally today, i got some hours of sunlight to take care of the control arms at least. I need to go out of town tomorrow so yeah we should be good.

 

[BonzaiDuck]

Your telling me! I went to Pick Your part out of curiosity to see if i found any cars perhaps with a new set of these or close to. No such luck but figured i would take one of those off and it was easy enough. I forgot i had a breaker bar and a 17/19mm was really all that was holding it in place minus the balljoint and the pin. Kind of rusty with tooling so i figured it was a good idea before tackling on my own vehicle!

Gonna get some cash for my RTX2070 today so that should easily cover my mounts and the control arms. 2070 was overkill for 1080p given i lost my 4k monitor and quite honestly i have quit gaming as of lately. Only game i technically play now runs on a potato or HD630. I rather have a fixed up car then the computer part or waiting weeks on end for cash for repairs.

Now to find this part locally today, i got some hours of sunlight to take care of the control arms at least. I need to go out of town tomorrow so yeah we should be good.

That's great you got this figured out, and I would recommend replacing the motor mounts if you're going to keep the car for a while.

As for your medication and the sleep problem, it would depend on what state you live in, and if you have anxiety problems, even the sleepy variety of cannabis indica might not be your cup of tea. [Cup of tea! That's funny!]

 

[mopardude87]

That's great you got this figured out, and I would recommend replacing the motor mounts if you're going to keep the car for a while.

As for your medication and the sleep problem, it would depend on what state you live in, and if you have anxiety problems, even the sleepy variety of cannabis indica might not be your cup of tea. [Cup of tea! That's funny!]

I took another trip to pick your part and i found a intact passenger control arm sitting by a corolla. Looked good and matched up so i figured heck with it i will find the driver side one and i found a solid one of those too. Was tons of fun removing parts of the frame as the control arm bushing bolt feeds into it and sway bar just bolts to that but i saw a similar procedure to remove the rear motor mount anyways. Need a floor jack to help keep it all raised up for reinstallation. Thank god my buddy got a breaker bar cause without it would have been up the creek without a paddle i tell you that much.

Cost me $31 per and tax. Cheapest new was like $56+ and they went up quite a bit from there depending on store. I will order the mounts at another time online as all these stores in town want a ludacris amount talking like $56 plus and those were i believe the o reily membership club pricing or whatever the guy behind the desk called it. I did a front motor mount on a 97 corolla now to long ago and i only paid like $26 for the thing.

As far as indica oh yeah it helps me sleep but till today i was kind of broke. I sold the 2070 within 2 hours of posting it for sale locally so yay not broke now. We get delivery like dang dominoes pizza out here but you need a $60 minimum total purchase with a $5 delivery fee. My friend wants some Alpine indica soon so maybe i will stash up on the gummies again. Those things i swear, small but the 10mg are potent and help with my back pain as well. get 10 pieces for $15 which is a dang bargain if you ask me.

Tomorrow i will have my fun installing these new control arms, for now i am enjoying a couple celebratory beers at money saved.

 

[BonzaiDuck]

I took another trip to pick your part and i found a intact passenger control arm sitting by a corolla. Looked good and matched up so i figured heck with it i will find the driver side one and i found a solid one of those too. Was tons of fun removing parts of the frame as the control arm bushing bolt feeds into it and sway bar just bolts to that but i saw a similar procedure to remove the rear motor mount anyways. Need a floor jack to help keep it all raised up for reinstallation. Thank god my buddy got a breaker bar cause without it would have been up the creek without a paddle i tell you that much.

Cost me $31 per and tax. Cheapest new was like $56+ and they went up quite a bit from there depending on store. I will order the mounts at another time online as all these stores in town want a ludacris amount talking like $56 plus and those were i believe the o reily membership club pricing or whatever the guy behind the desk called it. I did a front motor mount on a 97 corolla now to long ago and i only paid like $26 for the thing.

As far as indica oh yeah it helps me sleep but till today i was kind of broke. I sold the 2070 within 2 hours of posting it for sale locally so yay not broke now. We get delivery like dang dominoes pizza out here but you need a $60 minimum total purchase with a $5 delivery fee. My friend wants some Alpine indica soon so maybe i will stash up on the gummies again. Those things i swear, small but the 10mg are potent and help with my back pain as well. get 10 pieces for $15 which is a dang bargain if you ask me.

Tomorrow i will have my fun installing these new control arms, for now i am enjoying a couple celebratory beers at money saved.

Mopardude87 -- you . . . . are a real . . . piece of work . . . . They broke the mold when you were cast . . .

I wish I had your energy.

 

[mopardude87]

Mopardude87 -- you . . . . are a real . . . piece of work . . . . They broke the mold when you were cast . . .

I wish I had your energy.

I needed the energy and finding a few of those 19mm bolts in bad shape where i couldn't fit my 19mm socket was fun. Took a bit of whacking but yeah was able to get what i needed done. Seemed like a bit of trouble to save some bucks but i enjoyed myself and gained some experience while at it. More of a hands on learner with visuals so it was a fun experience even with frustrating moments lol.

Last time i was at such a place i was looking for a exhaust manifold for a slant 6 on a 68 dart . They love to crack and then they sound like a sherman tank.

 

[BonzaiDuck]

I needed the energy and finding a few of those 19mm bolts in bad shape where i couldn't fit my 19mm socket was fun. Took a bit of whacking but yeah was able to get what i needed done. Seemed like a bit of trouble to save some bucks but i enjoyed myself and gained some experience while at it. More of a hands on learner with visuals so it was a fun experience even with frustrating moments lol.

Last time i was at such a place i was looking for a exhaust manifold for a slant 6 on a 68 dart . They love to crack and then they sound like a sherman tank.

Yes, it's fun and self-satisfying. Even simple stuff. How much would the repair shop charge me for fixing a stop-light switch, when the problem was a little rubber bullet behind the switch? Except for the mistake of ordering the switch I didn't need for $15, the replacement rubber stop cost me $6. I'll bet they would've charged me $100, and lied to me about it.

The down side comes with a memory about my right index finger. I gouged myself in the mid-80s on my Honda, refurbishing the suspension. Next thing I know, I've got this ugly wart growing on my finger, itching like hell and even bleeding around the edges. The dermatologist used a little tool like an miniature ice-cream scoop with a scalpel edge to scrape it off. There's still a scar and dry skin to remind me.

 

[mopardude87]

Yes, it's fun and self-satisfying. Even simple stuff. How much would the repair shop charge me for fixing a stop-light switch, when the problem was a little rubber bullet behind the switch? Except for the mistake of ordering the switch I didn't need for $15, the replacement rubber stop cost me $6. I'll bet they would've charged me $100, and lied to me about it.

Aware of the rubber bullet,i had a friend with a 91 honda accord who had to keep unplugging their battery cause their light stayed on. The guy had such horrible back issues he couldn't get up under the dash to fix it himself. He told me he had the part and i asked for it and i got up under there and had it fixed in under 2 minutes. His wife and him kept insisting on paying me $20 and i said no need.

Speaking of battle scars, i should seriously consider finding myself a cheap pipe or something for my breaker bar. My neck is killing me atm cause a few of those 19mm bolts dang near refused to come off. Took everything i had with a breaker bar i think about 18 inches long . Amazingly enough my back is fine . Could be the indica keeping that in check ha. Friend got insistent we get some stuff delivered and i am glad we did. Got myself 6 hours of sleep finally!

Need to go back to yard i need to find one of the license plate bulb housing pieces, i found one of the two i needed for $8 . Then passenger side seat belt buckle. These old corollas are damn reliable with solid motors and transmissions but the little odd and end stuff going out is typical of high mile ones. Like the door handles love to go out.

Depends what speed auto i got i found some online 4 piece kits going from $74-$85 so when i can load some cash on a credit card,i am ordering these.

 

[BonzaiDuck]

Yeah -- the brake lever -- you need to be a midget contortionist with small hands. It wasn't too bad for me. The fuse box sits behind the dash panel with it's own little removable door, and I could pull it off and see what I was doing.

What socket wrench are you using? 3/8" drive? Go down to Home Depot and get a longer pipe that will accept the thickness of the socket-wrench handle. Or you could get a breaker-bar, which is a tool with merely a swivel 3/8" or 1/2" drive on the end and a longer handle -- which also works with the pipe.

 

[mopardude87]

What socket wrench are you using? 3/8" drive? Go down to Home Depot and get a longer pipe that will accept the thickness of the socket-wrench handle. Or you could get a breaker-bar, which is a tool with merely a swivel 3/8" or 1/2" drive on the end and a longer handle -- which also works with the pipe.

I do have a 1/2 '" breaker bar. I just lacked the pipe. I lack a good pry bar too. I ended up having a shop i trust do it for $100 out the door. Still hurting from yesterday and given i still needed a decent bit of tools i think i saved myself lots of hassle. I guess the removal of the entire sub frame isn't necessary if you got a good long pry bar as the shop used one and removal was easy enough for them. Right tools for the right job right?

I will post a picture shortly showing what the old passenger control arm bushing looked like. The mass majority of shaking and wobbling and front end noise is gone now. There is very little shake and thats cause the car needs a alignment as wheel still pulls right but not a big deal for now and those motor mounts. I went pass 40 and now the front end doesn't feel like something is gonna fall off!

 

[mopardude87]

 

[mopardude87]

Did forget to take pictures of driver but yeah the bushing was more or less torn apart from metal surroundings. It didn't look so bad removed but when on there oh yeah there was some clear issues with it.

Oh yeah i forgot also it may have been a good thing i had the shop do it. First time removal of the driver side wheel since ownership and the lug nut seized halfway through removal and it had to be snapped off. Shop replaced it for free after i ran down to get replacement stud and bolt.