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8RDA+ no POST! help please :-(

Just putting together my new sys and I'm having some disastrous problems with my 8RDA+. First, I set everything up, screwed everything down nice and tight, tried to turn it on and nothing happens. The power button doesn't seem to work. So I hit the switch on the power supply, and the mobo comes on; fans fire up, it acts like it's POSTing/booting, but nothing happens. The LED on the mobo displays 'FF,' and it just sits there, on, fans running, but nothing happening.

I've tried (3) different power supplies, different video cards, etc, and nothing seems to work. The only parts of this computer that are new are the RAM (HyperX), CPU (2500+ Barton), motherboard (8RDA+) and video (9700np). I've used the case and PS for about 3 systems including this one, and never had a problem.

I tried removing everything but the cpu/hsf/ram and unplugging all case fans, and I get the same thing. I thought maybe it's shorted to the case, so I remove it from the case and get -NOTHING-. The motherboard doesn't even seem to get power. For some odd reason it has to be touching the screws on the bed of the case for it to even turn on, but even then all I get is that 'FF'.

Do I have a dud here? Anybody have similar experiences or some advice? I'm getting fed up here...🙁
 
FWIW, my 8RDA+ runs fine and it always displays "FF." only thing i can think of is to try resetting bios with the jumpers.
 
Yeah well I read a few FAQ's on the 8RDA+ and it seems like the 'FF' can indicate a successful boot or basically a dead board/no POST. I think if you reboot your computer the mobo cycles through a bunch of codes before it rests on FF if it booted successfully, and mine doesn't; it just says FF from the time I give it power.

I think it's an RMA 🙁
 
How exactly does one "reset" the BIOS with the jumper? I see the CMOS reset jumper, is that what you're talking about? (the one directly to the left of the BIOS chip). If so, is it like most other motherboards on which you simply move the jumper over to pins 2,3 for 10-20 seconds to reset the CMOS, then move it back to 1-2?

Or is it something else?
 
Sorry to hear of your problems. When you get it to turn on, does it cycle through numbers first and then go to FF on the display, or does it go right to the FF? Do you have a adjustable fan plugged into any fan headers on the board?
 
It goes right to FF, nothing first. And yes, my CPU fan is adjustable (the YS-Tech 80x25mm)

Not to mention the two oddball problems...that it won't turn on or even do the FF thing if it's not screwed into the bottom of the case, and that the power button has yet to work once (I've been resorting to using the switch on the power supply).

Another odd thing, I suppose, is when I tried my two other power supplies (one a 300W Antec, which is identical to the one that's in the case, only a year or so older, and the other a 250W Enermax), the motherboard wouldn't even power up at all. Both of these PS have been out of comission for some time but I can't imagine it's solely a power supply issue when I've tried 3, and none work.
 
Ok, plug your YS tech fan into a regular four pin header. Epox fan headers have issues with some adjustable fans that will keep the board from posting. Also, try to get it to post out of the case.
 
Originally posted by: konichiwa
How exactly does one "reset" the BIOS with the jumper? I see the CMOS reset jumper, is that what you're talking about? (the one directly to the left of the BIOS chip). If so, is it like most other motherboards on which you simply move the jumper over to pins 2,3 for 10-20 seconds to reset the CMOS, then move it back to 1-2?

Or is it something else?

That's exactly correct. "resetting" the BIOS is actually clearing the CMOS... it helps a lot when your computer was able to post and, all of a sudden, cannot.
 
Thx for the tip MasterHoss, but that was about the 6th thing I tried in my desparation, and it did nothing. 😉 This mobo never posted, though...

Insane: Well I tried simply unplugging the fan to see if it would do anything different, only for 5 or 10 seconds, and it did the same thing. How exactly do I plug it into a 4-pin PS header? Needs a converter of some kind I'd assume right? I doubt that I have one...:/
 
Originally posted by: konichiwa
How exactly does one "reset" the BIOS with the jumper? I see the CMOS reset jumper, is that what you're talking about? (the one directly to the left of the BIOS chip). If so, is it like most other motherboards on which you simply move the jumper over to pins 2,3 for 10-20 seconds to reset the CMOS, then move it back to 1-2?

Or is it something else?

You can clear the CMOS by following steps...

1. Disconnect power to the board by disconnecting power cord or flipping button on the PSU.
2. Find the clear CMOS jumper (to the bottom and left of the bios socket) and take the jumper of pins 1 and 2 (default) and move the jumper to pins 2 and 3 (Clear CMOS)
3. Wait a minute or two, then replace the jumper on pins 1 and 2.

Done.
 
Originally posted by: konichiwa
Thx for the tip MasterHoss, but that was about the 6th thing I tried in my desparation, and it did nothing. 😉 This mobo never posted, though...

Insane: Well I tried simply unplugging the fan to see if it would do anything different, only for 5 or 10 seconds, and it did the same thing. How exactly do I plug it into a 4-pin PS header? Needs a converter of some kind I'd assume right? I doubt that I have one...:/

Yeah, you would need a converter...most variable fans usually come with one. Do you have any other fans the size of the YS Tech that you could use?

I would strongly suggest you try posting outside the case to make sure it's not a grounding issue.
 
The plot thickens:

I tried to boot outside the case; nothing. Not even a power-up. Tried on a table, tried on top of the case, tried holding it in my hand. Nothing. (This is with multiple power supplies, the 3-pin YS Tech and a 4-pin case fan). Put it back in the case, tried to boot, nothing.

I had to move it around in the case until it was in just the right spot before it would even power-up. If I lifted it up off the case screws (or whatever those gold thingies are called that you screw the mobo into), it would power off. Seems a lot like a short or something, and the contact with those gold screws is making it work? Weirdest thing I've ever seen...

Have yet to try the CMOS, but I guess I'll do that now.
 
Oh, not to mention, the actual power button on the front of the case has never worked throughout this whole process. I've plugged it in right (faced the silkscreen writing forward and backward, although that shouldn't make a difference) and it never works. I even tried the screw trick when it was unplugged; that doesn't work either. All this power off/on business I'm doing by switching the physical switch on the power supply unit. Bizarre...
 
Hmmm...couple more little things to try. First, remove the FSB jumper completely to try to force 100mhz FSB booting just incase it's a weird memory issue. Also, do you have any spare PC2100 or anything hanging around you can try? I remember the early NF2 boards had some issue where the speed setting would prevent the board from booting. It was commonly fixed by putting in another type of memory then setting the memory timings manaully. This could be an issue like that.

Hopefully something makes a turn for the better. 🙁

As a last resort, I sometimes like to just take everything back apart and put it back together again just in case something was screwy the first time...

Also, what HSF are you using? Is it one that screws through the board like the Alphas or high end SLK models?
 
Using SLK-800(a). I was hoping not to have to do all that but I guess it's the last thing I'll do this weekend, and barring a miracle, RMA here I come.
 
Bump up there and an update for you ppl...I broke down the CPU/HS, reinstalled everything, still no go. Removed the case entirely and I'm just hooking up a spare PS to the wall and the PS to the ATX connector on the motherboard; I don't get ANY power at all (not even fans-up). I tried the PS on an old motherboard, and it gets power just fine.

Can this be anything else besides a dead motherboard? If it were some other component it would at least get POWER, right? Damnit, I don't want to wait for an RMA 🙁
 
I'm trying to run an 8RGA+, which is the 8RDA+ with integrated video. I have the SAME problem as you. I can get the fans to spin for a few seconds if I have the PS connector about halfway in the plug, but that's about it.

I also get the FF boot code for the few seconds I get it to run.

I've already gotten my RMA# from Newegg and am gonna ship it out Monday...
 
Make sure you guys are using a good power supply.
My bro was using a 235watts power supply and got the dreaded "FF" post code
I used my power supply on the board and it worked.

 
Originally posted by: UncleWai
Make sure you guys are using a good power supply.
My bro was using a 235watts power supply and got the dreaded "FF" post code
I used my power supply on the board and it worked.
I'm using a 300W Antec...
 
Before RMA'ing the board back, if you have any of the USB headers (ie. USB2, USB3) connected, disconnect them all. Had a similiar problem myself with two boards. In each case, it was because the connection leds in the USB header was not correct and in order to prevent a short, the board would not power up.
 
Originally posted by: Brian48
Before RMA'ing the board back, if you have any of the USB headers (ie. USB2, USB3) connected, disconnect them all. Had a similiar problem myself with two boards. In each case, it was because the connection leds in the USB header was not correct and in order to prevent a short, the board would not power up.
This was going to be my suggestion too. You'll notice there are no wires to pins 9 and 10 on the EPoX USB-outlet connector. Pin 9 isn't there, and Pin 10 is hot 5V, not ground as one might expect. If you use a case's front-USB wiring, you should leave Pin 10 unoccupied.
 
I have nothing plugged in to the board. Nothing. CPU, RAM, that's it. Heatsink fan is hooked up to the PS, no vid card, no USB, nothing else. RMA 🙁
 
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