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4l65e Automatic Transmission

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My daughter took her Honda Accord to a local in IA, they stripped the oil drain plug. Took the 2 days to get a replacement pan installed.
I've been changing oil since 1974 and have yet to strip a drain plug, I wonder what these "mechanics" would do changing out a head gasket!.
 
Were they just topping off the gear oil?.

We change the Differential Fluid every 30,000 miles because the truck spends a very large number of days either putting boats in and out of water during fishing season (guiding) or moving through swamps (hunting season). Try to keep dirty water content in the diff to a minimum.
 
They caught Jiffy-lube on hidden camera charging customers for a tranny flush and just not doing it, my brother had his oil changed at one and the next AM he found a puddle of oil under the car, they didn't tighten the drain bolt and it was hanging on by one thread. I'm not saying all JL's are like that but they are paying their workers $10/hr and pumping through as many cars as possible, it's good you found a local guy to work on your vehicles.

A Jiffy-Lube my grandfather went to years ago stripped the drain bolt on his rear differentials, causing it to leak oil. We eventually got them to refund the cost of a new OEM rear diff cover and drain bolt, and had our local mechanic change it out. I've never been to one of those places with my cars, and pretty sure I never will.

What y'all are describing is not at all uncommon with the quick change places, esp. Jiffy Lube, unfortunately.

My brother, an ASE cert'd mech. with about 40 yrs. or so of experience, routinely has an average of 2 Jiffy Lube disasters turn up at his shop each month. Blown/burned up engines is the typical disaster. Problem typically centers around stripped oil pan drain plug or not ensuring the previous oil filter's gasket was removed, giving a double gasket situation that allows the oil to blow out.

To their credit, JL foots the replacement/repair bill without much grumbling. John, my brother, says JL sees this as a cost of doing business as they pretty much hire people with no mechanical skills whatsoever, for the most part. Must be due to their low pay scale with, in turn, assures anyone with true mechanical aptitude/skill never work there.
 
I've been changing oil since 1974 and have yet to strip a drain plug, I wonder what these "mechanics" would do changing out a head gasket!.

I've been doing the same for a tad longer and have had the same results....never stripped an oil pan drain plug. That's why I'll continue to change my own oil until I am physically unable to do so.....
 
I've been doing the same for a tad longer and have had the same results....never stripped an oil pan drain plug. That's why I'll continue to change my own oil until I am physically unable to do so.....
When I bought my '06 Chevy new I had the dealer do the oil changes, if anything happened during the warranty period I had proof it was serviced on schedule. After 36K miles I started doing them again, the 1st one I was having difficulty removing the drain plug, I wound up having to put the car on jackstands to get a breaker bar on it!. I think it was close to 100lbs, to filter was equally difficult as well.
 
We change the Differential Fluid every 30,000 miles because the truck spends a very large number of days either putting boats in and out of water during fishing season (guiding) or moving through swamps (hunting season). Try to keep dirty water content in the diff to a minimum.
Oh, OK, that makes perfect sense, all it would take is a small amount of water to turn fear oil into a milkshake, good thinking.
 
ive had two rounded oil plugs from JL. Ive also had other sloppy jobs done at Firestone. Worst one was where they literally smashed a cabin air filter back into place like a crumpled dirty napkin.

Much of that is why I do my own maintenance or take vehs to a real mechanic.
 
The scrubbing noise in 2nd gear sounds Like it's coming from the torque converter and I have all three wheel speed sensors reading faulty . I have replaced the vehicle speed sensor in the rear of the transmission and the bearing and speed sensor on the passenger side but they still read faulty and I can't find any wiring or connection problem . I'm afraid it's the PCM or abs module not telling the shift solenoids to pump fluid into the torque converter and unblocking it. Is that possible ? There was hardly any debris in the transmission pan and I never had and slippage . I have changed both shift solenoids . again only trouble codes are for the wheel speed sensors .
 
from what I understand about transmission repairs, the torque converter is replaced at the same time. Its orobably a combo issue and it will be cheaper to just replace it rather then diagnose what tiny part had failed when you are miles from a catastrophoc failure
 
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