3.3v rail dips to 3.12v during gaming

boyRacer

Lifer
Oct 1, 2001
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Too low? I'm trying to troubleshoot a CTD/BSOD problem during gaming... I don't know if its my memory causing it or my PS that's making my memory cause it or just my PS. It's reading 3.23v on a multimeter as I type this.

It's a 4 year old 550W Enermax that hasn't seen much use. It's rated at 40A on 3.3v and 46A on the 5V... :confused:
 

OdiN

Banned
Mar 1, 2000
16,430
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That is a little bit low. The specifications call for the range to be between 3.135-3.465V. That's +/-5%. It's +/- 10% on the 12V rail.

You probably won't see any issues...though with an Enermax I wouldn't expect it.
 

Zepper

Elite Member
May 1, 2001
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You need to measure with DMM during gaming. Don't rely on software monitor. 3.15 and up is good. Lockups are usually due to memory or bad drivers (yes, even mouse drivers - so don't ask).

.bh.
 

boyRacer

Lifer
Oct 1, 2001
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I think it's the PSU... :(

Replaced the PSU with a 500W Antec and the memtest errors are gone along with the BSODs during gaming.

I did have the DMM hooked up during gaming and that's when the 3.3v rail dipped to 3.12v on the old PSU. The 12v and 5v were ok at 12.01 and 4.92. This Enermax goes all the way back to my P3 days. I wonder if it's just old... but I hardly ever used this thing. What uses the 3.3v rail in the old ATX spec anyway? :confused:

 

boyRacer

Lifer
Oct 1, 2001
18,569
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Originally posted by: seanp789
check your outlet as well make sure u are getting proper AC Voltage. If its not the PSU you may want to reasearch a line conditioner/ voltage regulator such as the APC le1200 (http://www.beachaudio.com/product_info....GCID=C12585x003>KW=le1200&ref=true) $50.

I was able to solve some bad voltage problems and BSODs in my apartment whenever the washing machine would turn on.

Hmmm... how can I check if I need this thing? It certainly wouldn't hurt though. :)
 

Zepper

Elite Member
May 1, 2001
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Glad you solved the problem - the 3.3V rail is the only PSU voltage that is used directly by the mobo without local regulation and refiltering to a lower voltage. Your local power utility will put a recorder on your outlet so you can see what is happening over a day or two (some will let you record for longer depending on how many calls they have for the service and how many recorders they have). Be sure to run all your appliances (furnace, heat pump, Air Cond, dishwasher, clothes washer, clothes dryer, etc. thru a full cycle while recording to see what happens.

There is also a device called the P3 Kill A Watt. You can test the outlet voltage, current, instantaneous power, kW hours over whatever time span you choose, power factor and frequency. But it does not record, so you will need the recorder service mentioned above to catch Mins and Maxes, spikes per period of time, etc. Or you could observe the KAW during appliance usages to see what happens. They are usually under $30. around the web. The same thing (the same PCB in slightly different packaging) is sold under the Seasonic Power Angel name.

For my own use, I only buy PSUs with active PFC and full range voltage compensation as they are relatively immune to line side garbage w/o any extra equipment. It's worth the extra cost to me.

If you decide you need some help on the AC line side, consider getting a decent UPS as the good ones include voltage compensation over a fairly wide range without having to switch to the battery, which is there in case the voltage goes away entirely.

.bh.