2x Chassis fan to 1 fan controller

[Xuanne]

Hi,

I ordered 2x Rosewill Hyperborea 140mm fans and a Y splitter from Amazon, but I can't seem to find the power draw of the fans using google search.

I plan to connect both fans using the Y splitter to a single chassis fan controller on my Z170-PRO motherboard. I'm wondering if the two fans together will still be within the power limitation of that single controller?

Thanks in advance

Also, I'm wondering what does CPU_OPT do? My CPU fan is connected to the CPU_FAN slot, so what hypothetically, what will happen if I connect a chassis fan to the CPU_OPT slot? Will it be controlled together with the CPU_FAN?

 

[aigomorla]

going from newegg, if you look at the pictures it says .21A.

You should be okey with less then .5Amps on a single header.

CPU_OPT seems like optional, for people who use 2 fans in a push/pull scenario.
As for if it will be controlled via BIOS, i am unsure how it will work out on the board you have.

 

[Xuanne]

going from newegg, if you look at the pictures it says .21A.

You should be okey with less then .5Amps on a single header.

CPU_OPT seems like optional, for people who use 2 fans in a push/pull scenario.
As for if it will be controlled via BIOS, i am unsure how it will work out on the board you have.

Cool (heh), thanks! Can't wait for them to get here.

 

[thilanliyan]

On my board, CPU_OPT runs at the same speed as the regular CPU port.

 

[Xuanne]

On my board, CPU_OPT runs at the same speed as the regular CPU port.

I see, so it's controlled by the CPU port, good to know. Thanks.

 

[BonzaiDuck]

ASUS boards have versatile 3-pin/4-pin configurable ports.

CPU and CPU_OPT are both controlled in BIOS and the fan-profile software with the same fan-curve.

I was going to ask if these fans were of the PWM type.

If they are instead 3-pin, I'm sure you could buy a splitter, but you could also make your own with 15 minutes of soldering work. The fans must be wired in parallel. You will only connect one tach wire from either fan -- your pick -- to monitor at the fan port.

This is the same result you'd get with PWM splitters like the Swiftech 8-port unit which sells for around $10. You can't use the PWM splitter for 3-pin fans: they will always run at full bore.

I just built a system in which I include 2 140mm intake and 1 120mm exhaust fan in the fans controlled by the CPU fan-port. In fact -- my cooler doesn't have a fan. The rest are 3-pin, 2 on chassis-fan1 1 on CHA_FAN2. All three of those spin up with the Chassis fan fan-curve.

I use the Swiftech splitter for the 2x 140mm, and plug the exhaust fan to the CPU_OPT_FAN port.

 

[Xuanne]

ASUS boards have versatile 3-pin/4-pin configurable ports.

CPU and CPU_OPT are both controlled in BIOS and the fan-profile software with the same fan-curve.

I was going to ask if these fans were of the PWM type.

If they are instead 3-pin, I'm sure you could buy a splitter, but you could also make your own with 15 minutes of soldering work. The fans must be wired in parallel. You will only connect one tach wire from either fan -- your pick -- to monitor at the fan port.

This is the same result you'd get with PWM splitters like the Swiftech 8-port unit which sells for around $10. You can't use the PWM splitter for 3-pin fans: they will always run at full bore.

I just built a system in which I include 2 140mm intake and 1 120mm exhaust fan in the fans controlled by the CPU fan-port. In fact -- my cooler doesn't have a fan. The rest are 3-pin, 2 on chassis-fan1 1 on CHA_FAN2. All three of those spin up with the Chassis fan fan-curve.

I use the Swiftech splitter for the 2x 140mm, and plug the exhaust fan to the CPU_OPT_FAN port.

From the Amazon description, it mentions PWM automatic control so I guess they are 4 pin. Unfortunately, I do not have a solder iron at home, and since I have already bought a Y splitter I do not see the need to do it myself

Interesting setup you have there, though. No fan on the CPU heatsink? I'm guessing that this computer is not meant for heavy usage?

 

[BonzaiDuck]

From the Amazon description, it mentions PWM automatic control so I guess they are 4 pin. Unfortunately, I do not have a solder iron at home, and since I have already bought a Y splitter I do not see the need to do it myself

Interesting setup you have there, though. No fan on the CPU heatsink? I'm guessing that this computer is not meant for heavy usage?

Quite opposite, regardless the amount or frequency of "heavy usage" we have in mind.

First, a person could save themselves the time and trouble with Xacto-foamboard-glue and metric ruler, possibly with drawings and patterns: the older model thermalright duct meant for a TR-H01 (02?) cooler is an exact fit for a CM Hyper 212/.. /EVO/+:

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/th12fandubl.html

But if you make your own rigid duct, you can add layers of acoustic Spire "pad" material. You could build it from either the foam-art-board or Lexan with a lot more sweat equity in the latter.

I had written out for readers here the detailed results of today's test for Linx-stress between an i5 3470 and an i7-2700 in different cases, but especially with and without the ducting. Then, something slipped with the mouse and I lost my vast tome.

In this comparison, it is singularly useful to look at the idle temperatures more closely. So to make it short -- I am fairly confident that a motherboard duct can reduce the motherboard temperatures by approximately 5C to 7C -- maybe more with a more precise design. Basically, this statistic from the mobo sensor summarizes heat-sources of VRMs, CPU, RAM and so forth.

Basically, this difference between the systems was the same at both idle and load: the mobo sensor on lthe ducted system was 27C idle and 27C load. The other system: 35C, 32C. But the CPU temperatures of both systems -- stressed to the same 75C maximum. But even the CPU temperature at idle for the ducted system was lower than the other one, by about 1 to 2C.

I'm not trying to start a cult of Duck's Duct-ers. It's a lot of tedium. there are ways to make it precise, less effort and less sweat. I should've done this to both my Sandy systems early in the game.

 

[Xuanne]

Wow, looks interesting

 

[BonzaiDuck]

Wow, looks interesting

Well, some folks think that the ASUS Sabertooth boards' duct plate is "there" for something else. As if, being designed to "MIL-specs," the plate was added to "protect from rocks, sand and bullets," but "not TRUE." Or they are confused with the two 40mm fans that are supposed to be installed on the board, whining about "noisy" fans.

But this strategy of ducting has been explored with project posts in forums and other web-sites going back to 2003. pushing air through narrow apertures surrounding heat-sources will remove heat faster than simply random air-turbulence within the case just moving air around. And exhausting it immediately from the case means lower temperatures for everything all "across the board," to make a pun.

Whether I've avoided water-cooling in the past, preferring the inexpensive purchases at Michael's Arts & Crafts or Hobby-Lobby doesn't matter. You can't have water-blocks for everything without complicating your water-loop. If you reduce the temperatures arising from VRMs, chipset, RAM and other things, it would only make your water-cooling more effective, even if the difference is less significant. And for a water-cooling rig, an easily-removable duct plate is much simpler to construct than one including a large rectangular hole for some particular brand of tower heatpipe cooler.

The problem as I see it for my HAF 932 cases. They are designed for "high airflow," but my tendency has been to provide large CFMs at intake (200mm fans), and high-velocity output at the single exhaust fan. A duct plate won't work its magic as well without a second exhaust for the duct-plate alone. But I've figured out how to manage that, too . . . I need an 80 to 120mm fan in the case-top, where you can install either a 200mm fan, a 140mm or 120mm with the holes provided. This has been blocked off (by me) with art-board. I'll simply cut a 120mm hole in the board and add a small "box-duct" which sucks air from the motherboard duct.

It's going to be interesting . . .

A-a-n-n-d. I still plan to post some pictures for that other thread. Sooner or later . . .