2010 Honda Civic LX Front Speakers

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hennessy1

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Mar 18, 2007
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About a year or so ago the front right speaker blew. I had it replaced under warranty but its just never sounded the same. I've had a local car electronics place take a look and they set the speaker back in place one of the clips was not in. Even after that I still can not get used to it. They had mentioned that since the replacement speaker is a different manufacture than the original it will probably never sound the same from both.

I currently have a pioneer AVIC-Z130BT head unit in there and wanted your opinion on what speakers I should replace the front 2 with. I haven't really set a budget for this as I didn't even know where to start. I dont want to replace them with something equal but with something better sounding. I also was not sure if i needed an amp if I did stray away from anything close to what the stock speakers are.

Thank you for any help.
 

phucheneh

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Jun 30, 2012
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I would get as close to stock as possible.

Aftermarket speakers powered off a headunit often sound like ass because they're made with bigger motors (as is generally evidenced by the size of the magnet) and more moving mass in general (heavier cones). And stiffer rubber surrounds. All contribute to a severely-lacking low end.

That lil' magnet and paper cone you see on factory speakers isn't just to save money; they're able function more efficiently with a fairly weak power source.
 

hennessy1

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Mar 18, 2007
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Ok thank you phucheneh. Is there a good combo you could recommend for an amp and front speakers? If I was to get an amp would it make sense to get one just good enough for the front speakers and if/when I do the rears get another for that or just get one good am that can handle both?
 

phucheneh

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Jun 30, 2012
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You will get differing opinions. To give my opinion, and that of most people who put a decent amount into a 'sound quality' oriented car stereo:

I've had a very hard time finding aftermarket speakers that work well on HU power (usually ~15-20wrms a side, tops). I've randomly seen some that are rather 'punchy' and responsive at low power levels, but I couldn't point anything out in anyone's current catalog. Simply having a low RMS rating doesn't mean much; that can just mean they suck AND they can't handle much power.

If you're gonna buy a decent set of aftermarket speakers, it makes sense to step up to something at a higher power level (more power, simply put, can typically generate more low-end) and amplify it. A quality 50-75w x 2 amp is plenty of power for most affordable comp sets. Having more power doesn't hurt if you can get a good deal on something that does 100w+ a side. 'Overpowering' speakers requires the input level, gain, and volume all be high enough to actually SEND the speakers that much power, which is usually rather deafening at over 100w a side. Mechanical speaker failure (from overexcursion) often happens first. High pass filters (block the lowest frequencies) prevent said overexcursion when set right.

Do you just have door speakers? No factory spot for a tweeter?

You could get a pretty decent set of components and an amp for maybe 200 bucks or less. Beats blowing the 50-100 that I see some people spend to run coaxials off the HU for worse-than-stock sound.

No reason to amp the rears. They're just fill.

Also, warning: good front speakers will make you want to install a subwoofer.
 
May 13, 2009
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I bought the pioneer g1644s door speakers for my truck and they sound good with the pioneer deck I have. $30 a pair at Amazon. I am adding a 10" sub though for the bass for the full sound experience.
 

hennessy1

Golden Member
Mar 18, 2007
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I ended up replacing all four speakers with 4 polk speakers. The sound very full compared to stock. The rattling is gone which I figured would happen and very glad about to. I can definitly turn the volume higher without it getting it distorted.

@phucheneh-You were right about the good sound I definitely want a sub now.
 

CraigRT

Lifer
Jun 16, 2000
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If it were me, I would be installing a 4 channel amp, and running a set of components up front and a single 10 in the trunk. (off the 4 channel amp)
 
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