2006 Yaris dies at idle.

[fuzzybabybunny]

Just today my manual Yaris started dying (shutting off) at idle.

History:

Battery replacement a week ago.

Engine light turned on yesterday.

To start the car I need to turn the ignition and press the accelerator a bit, otherwise it doesn't quite get the engine running.

If I don't press the accelerator the engine will stall on its own.

The engine idled low at 500rpm before. Engine rumbles and seems on the verge of stalling all the time. If I keep the revs up the engine doesn't stall out.

Would it be as simple as just getting some TB and MAF sensor cleaner, taking apart the throttle body, and cleaning everything? And tighten the accelerator cable while I'm at it? I don't know how difficult or what tools are required with the 2006 Yaris.

 

[Torn Mind]

The bolts are probably 12mm or 14mm, with an off chance they are 10mm. There are hoses as well that you might have to disconnect. If you don't have a torque wrench, you might have to dab some white out on the fastener and a point below it and count the number of turns it takes to spin the fastener off.

 

[fuzzybabybunny]

The bolts are probably 12mm or 14mm, with an off chance they are 10mm. There are hoses as well that you might have to disconnect. If you don't have a torque wrench, you might have to dab some white out on the fastener and a point below it and count the number of turns it takes to spin the fastener off.

Should I buy a set of ratchet heads or are regular spanners still the best option because they fit in more places? I'm traveling and kind of want an emergency toolkit for things.

 

[tortillasoup]

Just today my manual Yaris started dying (shutting off) at idle.

History:

Battery replacement a week ago.

Engine light turned on yesterday.

To start the car I need to turn the ignition and press the accelerator a bit, otherwise it doesn't quite get the engine running.

If I don't press the accelerator the engine will stall on its own.

The engine idled low at 500rpm before. Engine rumbles and seems on the verge of stalling all the time. If I keep the revs up the engine doesn't stall out.

Would it be as simple as just getting some TB and MAF sensor cleaner, taking apart the throttle body, and cleaning everything? And tighten the accelerator cable while I'm at it? I don't know how difficult or what tools are required with the 2006 Yaris.

Assuming you don't have any vacuum leaks, what you may need to do is an idle learn procedure. Disconnect the battery again, wait 1 minute, reconnect the battery, then on a completely cold startup (8 hour cold soak), start up the car and let it idle. Keep the A/C, lights, rear defrost, everything off. Once the car shows it is at operating temperature according to the gauge cluster, let it idle for about 15 minutes after that. Turn off the car, wait 10 minutes and start up the car again and let it idle for 7 minutes more. If the car does not stall at idle after this, you probably will be fine.


Also there should be no accelerator cable as I believe this car is drive by wire. You MIGHT want to clean the throttle body but only do so if you've exhausted your options which is checking for loose/cracked vacuum hoses (should be hardly any) and the idle learn procedure. You'll have to do the idle learn procedure again if you clean the throttle body.

 

[michal1980]

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...strange-engine-start-how-clean-iac-valve.html

and

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mGs0j5FT220

 

[tortillasoup]

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...strange-engine-start-how-clean-iac-valve.html

and

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mGs0j5FT220

drive by wire vehicles don't have Idle Air Control valves because they use the throttle body itself for that purpose. First thing I would have suggested otherwise.

 

[bradly1101]

Does it have vacuum? My Toyota idle problem was taken care of with a cleaning of the EGR system.

 

[tortillasoup]

Does it have vacuum? My Toyota idle problem was taken care of with a cleaning of the EGR system.

yeah a stuck open EGR valve could cause the car to die so cleaning it could help.

 

[fuzzybabybunny]

Figured it out. Somehow the last mechanic left one of the latches open on the air filter box, causing a vacuum leak. Closed it and now it doesn't stall, but engine still idles low at 500 and vibrates a bit.

 

[tortillasoup]

Figured it out. Somehow the last mechanic left one of the latches open on the air filter box, causing a vacuum leak. Closed it and now it doesn't stall, but engine still idles low at 500 and vibrates a bit.

do an idle learn and or look for other vacuum leaks.

 

[Torn Mind]

Should I buy a set of ratchet heads or are regular spanners still the best option because they fit in more places? I'm traveling and kind of want an emergency toolkit for things.

Not sure about the Yaris, but you want a mix of wrenches and ratchets because there are certain fasteners that are in cramped quarters such that a wrench works better and others where only a ratchet or nut driver works. Passthrough sockets might be fine too.

Having worked on a 1996 Camry and 2007 Matrix, I can assure you that both ratchets and sockets have their place. Just removing the plastic engine cover can be a stumbling block. On the Matrix, it needs a 10 mm socket and must be 3/8ths or 1/4 driver due to the recess.

Everthing is metric, so SAE sizes need not be considered.

Extensions will come in handy too. Regular, wobble, and swivel.